Topo #3682

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 Thrash Piggies

"The front of the little buttress at the very left of the cliff. The crux is getting through the blackberries." Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

8 Trad 12m Unlink route
2 Tequila

The unnattractive flaring groove left of Vug. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

6 Trad 16m Unlink route
3 Vug

Up to a bushy ledge near the left end of the cliff then the corner on the right. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

4 Trad 16m Unlink route
4 Mossy Edge

The steep arete left of 'Aries' gives way to ledge hopping.

13 Trad 17m Unlink route
5 Aries

Start: The vertical crack 1 metre right of the arete has an interesting first few moves.

9 Trad 17m Unlink route
6 Garden Wall

A tough start with some suss rock leads to a ledge below a short corner with a wide crack. Overcome this and another tricky corner to finish. Start: The centre of the wall between 'Aries' and do Not Drop.

12 Trad 17m Unlink route
7 Do Not Drop

The shallow left facing corner and the square cut corner above. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

8 Trad 17m Unlink route
8 Handle With Care

Start: Climb the middle of the wall between 'Do Not Drop' and 'This Way Up' to reach a narrow projecting buttress. Finish up the front of this.

11 Trad 18m Unlink route
9 This Way Up

The easy corner and wide chimney

7 Trad 18m Unlink route
10 Export Quality

Start: The grooved arete left of 'Pedagogue' is gained directly.

13 Trad 21m Unlink route
11 Pedagogue

(P) The curving left facing corner with a steep start. The most popular climb at this end of the crag. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

12 Trad 20m Unlink route
12 Levee Breaks

The rock could break too. Up the overhanging right side of the arete right of Pedagogue to a ledge. Continue up the arete. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

18 Trad 20m Unlink route
13 Fragile

(F) The protection is reasonable, but take note of the name. Sustained climbing up to the ledge then short wall to finish. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

18 Trad 21m Unlink route
14 Fragile and Useless

Beigin beneath a broad blade right of fragile. Climb directly up to it and continue past a sheok

16 Trad 22m Unlink route
15 Use No Hooks

Start: Climb steeply and directly to gain a corner left of 'Shonarch'.

13 Trad 21m Unlink route
16 Shonarch

(S) A steep, scrappy start leads to an arete and the front of the tower above. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

17 Trad 21m Unlink route
17 Hieroglyph

Start: The corner bounding the left side of Pizzaz wall is guarded by an overhanging start.

13 Trad 21m Unlink route
18 ** Pizazz

The face on the left of the 'Barad Dur' wall, avoiding the corner. Climb on crimps following the line of bolts up the face. Start: You can begin as for 'Barad Dur' or from directly below the route proper.

23 Trad 21m Unlink route
21 *** Barad Dur

Swing up the steep juggy wall immediately left of Eternal Damnation's undercut arete past a big rattly block to a ledge. Step right and go up to the roof. Now make a cramped step back left past a bolt onto an undercut wall to reach the base of the crack. Straight up the crack.

22 Mixed 20m, 1 Unlink route
20 ** Locust Abortion Technician

Start as for Barad Dur. Once on the ledge step left so that you are below and 1m left of Barad Dur's crackline and climb directly up, staying within a metre of the crack. If you're on route the first bolt of Pizazz can be clipped prior to heading up but then you are relying on side runners in Barad Dur.

28 Mixed 20m, 1 Unlink route
19 ** Elusive Muff

Start as for Barad Dur to ledge. Tiptoe left to directly below the first bolt on of Pizazz. Move up clipping this, and trend up a line right of the Pizazz bolts to a horizontal level with the 3rd. Breathe deeply and commit to the increasingly run out crux section with gear awaiting near the top (small cam). Uses 3 bolts on Pizzaz prior to the cam placement. Crux at the 3rd.

27 Sport 18m, 3 Unlink route

Topo #3684

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Route Grade Popularity Style
25 Eternal Damnation
23 Trad 18m Unlink route
26 ** Mad Germans By Torchlight

The face between Eternal Damnation's Arete and Lord's Prayer's Corner. Both of these routes are off limits. Begin as for Eternal Damnation and then continue up the face avoiding the arete of Eternal Damnation and corner of Lord's Prayer.

25 Trad 18m Unlink route
27 * Lords Prayer

Worth its grade for the start and some nice bridging moves up the corner. Start: Up the left hand corner to the right of 'Shewoodenduit'.

15 Trad 17m Unlink route
28 Sermon
19 Trad 17m Unlink route
29 Sermon RHF
18 Trad 17m Unlink route
30 Pulpit
19 Trad 15m Unlink route
31 Alms
17 Trad 15m Unlink route

Topo #3685

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Route Grade Popularity Style
32 Joseph
14 Trad 14m Unlink route
33 Tabraj
19 Trad 14m Unlink route
34 ** Resurrection

Crux is essential unprotected, not a good climb for a grade 17 leader Start: Start at the boulder and make a nice move to gain the V - corner.

17 Trad 14m Unlink route
35 * Klutz
24 Trad 13m Unlink route
36 * Klutz Connection
21 Trad 14m Unlink route
37 * Cioch

Start: Climb the orange rock just left of Arev. Grab a poor rest below the roof, pull around this on the left to gain a crack in the head wall.

22 Trad 14m Unlink route

Topo #3686

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Route Grade Popularity Style
38 Arev
15 Trad 14m Unlink route
39 Road Show
17 Trad 14m Unlink route
40 * Sheoak Corner

Start: Start from the olive tree. Up the open corner. Great introductory route.

12 Trad 15m Unlink route

Topo #3692

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Route Grade Popularity Style
41 Sheoak Arete

The arete just right of Sheoak Corner

18 Trad 15m Unlink route
42 * Golgotha

Climb the groove to a ramp below the roof. Over the roof and follow the crack.

16 Trad 15m Unlink route
43 Tai-o-Toshi

Start: Over the bulge 1 metre right of 'Golgotha'. Up to the ledge right of the nose. Head up the groove just right of the arete.

15 Trad 15m Unlink route
44 Tai Otoshi Direct Start

Up crack 1m R of Golgotha to base of rib. Place good #1 cam. Straight up rib to stance at start of Tai Otoshi's groove. Finish up that route.

15 Trad 15m Unlink route
45 Shemademedoit

Wall with thin crack between Tai-o-Toshi and Ob-La-Di. Wouldn't be a FA, this may flush out the truth.

15 Trad 15m Unlink route
46 Ob-la-di

The central line on the wall, taking care not to fall astride the sharp blade. Fortunately the protection is adequate. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

16 Trad 17m Unlink route
47 Gunga Din

The corner on the right end of the red wall. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

14 Trad 18m Unlink route

Topo #3698

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Route Grade Popularity Style
54 Bung Left

Wall left of Bung Direct, staying out of the corner and not touching the central crack.

24 Trad 13m Unlink route
55 * Bung Direct

The central crack. The first (aided) route up the wall took 16 years before it went free.

23 Trad 13m Unlink route
56 * Bung Original

"Original" in that it was the first variant on the wall to go free. Climb 'Bung Direct' to below the crux, step R, make a move up and then back L to the crack.

20 Trad 13m Unlink route
57 ** Bung RHF

The most common way up the wall. Follow 'Bung Original' but do not move back L. Finish up the face between the crack and arete.

20 Trad 13m Unlink route
58 * Bung Totally Right

Climb the R side of the wall, the crack and arete are off limits.

21 Trad 13m Unlink route
59 * Shedidit

Lace the crack up with cams and nuts. Has a nice move just before topping out. Start: Climb the vertical crack just right of bung wall.

15 Trad 13m Unlink route

Topo #3699

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Route Grade Popularity Style
59 * Shedidit

Lace the crack up with cams and nuts. Has a nice move just before topping out. Start: Climb the vertical crack just right of bung wall.

15 Trad 13m Unlink route
60 Sunout

The corner R of 'Shedidit'

7 Trad Unlink route
61 The Unnamed Seventeen
17 Trad 13m Unlink route
62 Illequipt Left Side

The black streak L of Illequipt, using that route for protection only.

23 Trad 14m Unlink route
63 A Quiet Chat

Start up Illequipt Left Side and then move up and R into the Illequipt crack.

19 Trad 13m Unlink route
66 Al Sirrat

The obvious arete. Not well protected.

8 Trad 14m Unlink route
64 * Illequipt

Climb the wall left of Al Sirrat, starting at a small arete. At half height, step L into the crack.

18 Trad 14m Unlink route
65 The Crunge

Climb 'Illequipt' to half height, then continue straight up the thin crack. The Illequipt crack and the arete are off limits.

20 Trad 14m Unlink route

Topo #3700

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Route Grade Popularity Style
66 Al Sirrat

The obvious arete. Not well protected.

8 Trad 14m Unlink route
67 Mud in Yer Eye
4 Trad 14m Unlink route
68 Legato Fae

The wall left of Asgard. Not allowed to use Asgard's holds.

22 Trad 14m Unlink route
69 * Asgard

Follow the flake in the centre of the first wall left of the descent route.

16 Trad 15m Unlink route
70 Asgard Right Side

Stay R of the crack for holds and protection. The acronym was Mark's idea.

16 Trad Unlink route
71 Cinch

Ledges and large cracks on the R of the asgard wall. The groove through the overhang is awkward.

8 Trad 14m Unlink route

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