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Description

The Boulder Bridge is named for the natural rock bridge and magically suspended rock arch at the western end of the cliff. The best wall at the cliff features some of the classics of Adelaide Hills climbing - Muesli, Extra G, Extra G Connection and 'Geronimo's Cadillac'

The area is also extremely popular with beginners and commercial groups due to its relatively easy descent track and high concentration of easy routes.

Early morning shade. The Muesli Wall has shade until midday.

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Access issues inherited from Morialta

Part of the area is located within the Morialta Conservation Park.

Approach

From Norton Summit Road Gate 17, follow the 4wd track for 2 minutes and then turn downhill to the left past a group briefing area. Follow the zigzags in the track (they are here to reduce track erosion - please do not cut corners!)

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Descent notes

The easiest descent is at the eastern end of the cliff, but descent can also be made at the western end or beneath the bridge itself.

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Ethic inherited from Morialta

Morialta is primarily a trad climbing and toproping area. Chipping, excessive chalk, litter and new bolts are all frowned upon and/or illegal.

Some routes have good natural gear, some have none (if the first ascensionist soloed it that is a good giveaway.) Most routes can be toproped and there are ring bollards in the more popular areas - use these where available and do not tie off to trees.

Any bolt repairs should be done in conjunction with the Climbing Club of South Australia.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: 1971

FA: Mike Ball & V. Venness, 1971

FA: Iain Allan, 1971

Start: Start on the left side of the orange wall. Nice continuous climbing up the flake. Gain a rest on the ledge and continue up the arete.

FA: Col Reece & Mike Round, 1972

Climb Muesli then at the Extra G variant move R to below the bulge and continue directly up the face L of Extra G.

FA: Adam Clay, 2008

Start up Muesli (trad gear) then reverse the traverse of Extra G Connection straight into the crux of Geronimo's Cadillac, then finish as for Geronimo's Corvette. Longest route on the wall.

FA: Redanon, 2017

Very nice sustained wall climb.

Start: Start as for muesli and continue for 6 metres to where 2 small horizontals allow you step out on to the wall to the right. Climb over a small bulge to reach a thin seam and follow this to where it curls of right. Clip the bolt and go for the top.

FA: Tony Barker & Steve Moore

FA: Steve Kelly

Start up Geronimo's Cadillac. Traverse left after the first bolt to join Extra G.

Starts up Geronimo's Cadillac as far as the second bolt then goes up and a little left from there: a couple of fine vertical crimps off to the left and then straight over the bulge to grab a quartz knob, swings up and there is a nice sequence of dynamic moves on the lip of the bulge reminiscent of a skateboarding move.

From the skateboard move the route continues straight up (small crystal finger pocket) and a tricky sequence at the top, sustained until the last move. The line avoids all the holds on Muesli and Extra G.

FA: Roger DuBois & John Nitschke, 2005

Takes a direct line where the RHV branches off right via a continuous boulder problem to the jug over the half height bulge, then trends up and left via a technical finish. As per the Adelaide Hills Guide description - the full grade 26 version originally avoided the rest as a training link, however this is very contrived.

FA: Rob Knott, 1992

Shares Cadillac's start but then breaks right and climbs an easier weakness right of the direct route to the rest, then continues per the usual finish. Largely ignored nowadays due to its inferior quality and proximity to the corner.

FA: Mike Law-Smith

Take Geronimo's Cadillac (direct version) to the half height rest, then launch past 2 more bolts through a final boulder problem right of the original finish. Slightly harder than GC.

FA: Simon Wilson

FA: 1985

FA: 1971

FA: 1971

FA: 1974

FA: John Griffiths & Martin Bell, 1971

2m R of "The Thinker". Up wall, clip 1st bolt of "Close your eyes and think of England" on your right, then up past piton.

Start: Easy climbing but with limited protection up to the small roof. Clip the two bolts and finish on some slightly gritty rock.

FA: Nick Neagle & Paul Francis, 1986

Up fist sized crack, trend left and up wide crack. Beginners sometimes bury themselves inside it.

FA: Iain Allan & John Griffiths, 1971

Start: Climb Clea's well protected crack. Move slightly right from the ledge onto the arete. Continue up moving over the small roof.

FA: John Griffiths & Martin Bell, 1971

FA: Colin Reece & Martin Bell, 1972

Straight up and over bolt L of Palm Oil. Side runners in PO to begin.

FA: Mark Witham, Paul Badenoch & Doug Brooks, 2015

FA: Mark Barnett & Alan McCulloch, 1984

Start beneath moulded brain shaped hole. Up easily to ledge and into brain, then difficult move to underneath roof. Pull over roof to a rest below a second roof. Surmount this and then continue easily up crack.

FA: Quentin Chester (TR), 1979

FFA: David Crisp, 1983

FA: Dave Nelson, 1991

Start: Traverse right from the cave. Move up to the detached block and execute a nice move to gain a stance on the block. Follow the well protected corner.

FA: Colin Reece, 1975

FA: 1985

FA: Nick Neagle & Mike Brown, 1985

Up groove to the left of arete to roof then traverse into digital input. Nice novelty route. Not much gear though.

FA: Gary Scott, Colin Reece & Mark Barnett, 1980

The curving corner just left of Boulder Bridge.

FA: Iain Allan, John Griffiths & Terry Prime, 1971

Up the L wall of the gully passing over a little slab and using the arete on the L as required (there used to be more holds and it was graded 17.)

FA: Wade Stevens & Tim Kildea, 1998

Here is the Boulder Bridge itself, now sporting a steel walkway above it. Below it is a levitating series of blocks - people have climbed too close to it in the past, let's not.

FA: 1971

The small amount of rock between Big Sham's corner and the left arete. Straight up the centre. The left and right side are off limits. Very little pro. Don't fall!

Stick to the middle only, left and right side out of bounds apparently. Dangerous lead. Small RP between you and the deck!

FA: 1977

Well Named. The V corner is actually a climb, but you may not have noticed.

The crack splitting the front of the buttress R of Big Sham. Initialed but fading.

Activity

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