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Ethic inherited from Morialta

Morialta is primarily a trad climbing and toproping area. Chipping, excessive chalk, litter and new bolts are all frowned upon and/or illegal.

Some routes have good natural gear, some have none (if the first ascensionist soloed it that is a good giveaway.) Most routes can be toproped and there are ring bollards in the more popular areas - use these where available and do not tie off to trees.

Any bolt repairs should be done in conjunction with the Climbing Club of South Australia.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
2
4 Tora Trad
3
6 Pandemonium Trad 19m

FA: 1971

4
8 Start Trad 19m

FA: Mike Ball, V. Venness, 1971

5
9 Justine Trad 19m

FA: Iain Allan, 1971

6
15 Cocolossal Trad 18m
7
16 *** Muesli Trad 18m

Start: Start on the left side of the orange wall. Nice continuous climbing up the flake. Gain a rest on the ledge and continue up the arete.

FA: Col Reece, Mike Round, 1972

8

Climb Muesli then at the Extra G variant move R to below the bulge and continue directly up the face L of Extra G.

9
21 *** Extra G Mixed 18m, 1

Very nice sustained wall climb.

Start: Start as for muesli and continue for 6 metres to where 2 small horizontals allow you step out on to the wall to the right. Climb over a small bulge to reach a thin seam and follow this to where it curls of right. Clip the bolt and go for the top.

FA: Tony Barker, Steve Moore

10
24 * Special K Trad 18m

FA: Steve Kelly

11
24 *** Extra G Connection Trad 17m
12

Starts up Geronimo's Cadillac as far as the second bolt then goes up and a little left from there: a couple of fine vertical crimps off to the left and then straight over the bulge to grab a quartz knob, swings up and there is a nice sequence of dynamic moves on the lip of the bulge reminiscent of a skateboarding move.

From the skateboard move the route continues straight up (small crystal finger pocket) and a tricky sequence at the top, sustained until the last move. The line avoids all the holds on Muesli and Extra G.

FA: Roger DuBois, John Nitschke, 2005

13
26 *** Geronimo's Cadillac Sport 17m
14
25 *** Geronimo's RHV Sport 15m
15
26 * Geronimo's Corvette Sport 18m
16
12 Armageddon Trad 15m
17
19 Amazing Graze Trad 15m

FA: 1985

18
12 Black Cat Trad 17m
19
10 Blackbird Trad 16m
20
11 Black Rat Trad 16m

FA: 1971

22
12 Touche Trad 16m

FA: 1971

23
16 R Yellow Streak Trad 16m

FA: 1974

24
15 The Thinker Trad 16m
25
21 Polish Old Boy's Route Mixed 17m, 1

2m R of "The Thinker". Up wall, clip 1st bolt of "Close your eyes and think of England" on your right, then up past piton.

26

Start: Easy climbing but with limited protection up to the small roof. Clip the two bolts and finish on some slightly gritty rock.

FA: 1986

27
11 Clea Trad 18m

Up fist sized crack, trend left and up wide crack. Beginners sometimes bury themselves inside it.

28
15 Clea Direct Finish Trad 16m

Start: Climb Clea's well protected crack. Move slightly right from the ledge onto the arete. Continue up moving over the small roof.

29
17 Sceptre Trad

FA: Colin Reece & Martin Bell

30
22 R Palm Oil Mixed 17m, 1
31
19 R Apricot Dusk Trad 17m

FA: Mark Barnett, Alan McCulloch

32
18 R * Brainrack Trad 19m

Start beneath moulded brain shaped hole. Up easily to ledge and into brain, then difficult move to underneath roof. Pull over roof to a rest below a second roof. Surmount this and then continue easily up crack.

33
20 Rattling Good Fit Trad 17m

FA: Dave Nelson, 1991

34
16 * Plexas Trad 18m

Start: Traverse right from the cave. Move up to the detached block and execute a nice move to gain a stance on the block. Follow the well protected corner.

35
16 Eryk Trad 17m

FA: 1985

36
17 Mt Olive Trad 17m
37

FA: Nick Neagle, Mike Brown, 1985

39
19 Living on Input Trad 15m

Up groove to the left of arete to roof then traverse into digital input. Nice novelty route. Not much gear though.

40
20 R * Digital Input Trad 19m
41
15 Aga Trad 13m
42
12 * Balthazar Trad 13m

The curving corner just left of Boulder Bridge.

43
22 Yuppies in the Gym Trad 63m
44
11 Olive Oyl Trad 15m
45
20 Popeye Trad 12m

Up the L wall of the gully passing over a little slab and using the arete on the L as required (there used to be more holds and it was graded 17.)

46

FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Kildea, 1998

Here is the Boulder Bridge itself, now sporting a steel walkway above it. Below it is a levitating series of blocks - people have climbed too close to it in the past, let's not.

The gully can be used as a tricky descent route.

47
48
8 Leprosy Trad 15m

FA: 1971

49
16 R Kamikaze Trad 14m

The small amount of rock between Big Sham's corner and the left arete. Straight up the centre. The left and right side are off limits. Very little pro. Don't fall!

Stick to the middle only, left and right side out of bounds apparently. Dangerous lead. Small RP between you and the deck!

50
11 Big Sham Trad 14m
51
11 Sham 'n' Eggs Trad 10m
52
11 Free and Easy Trad 13m

FA: 1977

53
4 Gut Trad
54
6 Little Sham Trad
56
6 Tit Bit Trad
57
13 Oracle Trad
58
14 Crunchy Granola Trad 13m
59
12 Stoned Again Trad
60
13 High Fibre Trad 7m

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