The Buttress Mostly trad climbing30 routes in crag
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Tilted to RHS, so steep or overhanging> balance or power
Parking spots down the hill from the boulder bridge / far crag parking. Room for one/two cars. Climb over the guard rail at the faded yellow colored post. Hike down the steepening path (caution: May be hard to access in the wet or after rain). Until reaching the top of the buttress with anchor setups possible for both left and right walls. Descend to the right (looking out over the buttress)
Ethic inherited from Morialta
Morialta is primarily a trad climbing and toproping area. Chipping, excessive chalk, litter and new bolts are all frowned upon and/or illegal.
Some routes have good natural gear, some have none (if the first ascensionist soloed it that is a good giveaway.) Most routes can be toproped and there are ring bollards in the more popular areas - use these where available and do not tie off to trees.
Any bolt repairs should be done in conjunction with the Climbing Club of South Australia.©
This is more like it. run out face climbing. Start below and L of Balance's little roof and climb directly up the wall. No pro beyond half height.
FA: Gary Scott, 1979
FA: Mike Dixon, Rick & Fred Dyer, 2008
Start below the overhung arete and step around left and up to right facing corner. Up and left to avoid the roof passing a truly horrible looking rusty carrot. Follow the crack to the top.