The Buttress Mostly trad climbing

30 routes in crag

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Summary

Tilted to RHS, so steep or overhanging> balance or power

Approach

Parking spots down the hill from the boulder bridge / far crag parking. Room for one/two cars. Climb over the guard rail at the faded yellow colored post. Hike down the steepening path (caution: May be hard to access in the wet or after rain). Until reaching the top of the buttress with anchor setups possible for both left and right walls. Descend to the right (looking out over the buttress)

Ethic inherited from Morialta

Morialta is primarily a trad climbing and toproping area. Chipping, excessive chalk, litter and new bolts are all frowned upon and/or illegal.

Some routes have good natural gear, some have none (if the first ascensionist soloed it that is a good giveaway.) Most routes can be toproped and there are ring bollards in the more popular areas - use these where available and do not tie off to trees.

Any bolt repairs should be done in conjunction with the Climbing Club of South Australia.

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History

The AUMC were exploring Morialta starting at the bottom, so this area was explored in the early 1960s before the areas further upstream. The Buttress (13) features what is probably the oldest bolt in the Adelaide hills.

©

Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
2
5 Fos Trad
3
7 Lemon Crack Trad
4
7 Reflections Trad
5
6 Italian Job Trad
7
12 Death Dream Trad
9
12 Gillette Trad 18m
10

Climbs Coalition up to Gorilla My Dreams, then follows that to the top. Bad protection at the start, as with Coalition.

FA: 2012

11
19 *** Gorilla My Dreams Trad 20m

A great route with an even better name. Follow gillette to the ledge, then step backaround the arete and jam the big diagonal crack. When it peters out prematurely at a shallow niche you're forced into a couple of steep, thin moves to gain summit brick.

FA: Colin Reece, 1977

12
17 Coalition Trad 18m
14
21 *** Gorilla My Dreams DS Sport 15m, 3

Start halfway up the gully and launch directly up the wall following the bolted line. Bouldery start, then a very good rest mid-way up leads to a finger-jug at the final horizontal. Break left via a reachy move into the steep diagonal crackline, then finish up it.

15

Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, go directly straight up via the hanging flake/sidepull.

FA: Ascends the hanging flake to the right of the original crack finish

16

Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, break right along the horizontal for a couple of moves, then launch upwards via underclings and a good crimp to the next horizontal. Get a brief shake, then perform a very bouldery finish via another undercling to topout.

FA: Steve Kelly

17
21 Tally-ho Trad
19
16 Street Legal Trad 13m

This is more like it. run out face climbing. Start below and L of Balance's little roof and climb directly up the wall. No pro beyond half height.

FA: Gary Scott, 1979

22
13 The Inverted Rasp Trad 16m
23
13 Lorikeet Trad
24
16 Swift Parrot Trad

Close relative of Lorikeet. Start in left side of cave. Straight up crossing Lorikeet and through second roof on improving rock.

FA: Burke & Oerman

25

FA: Mike Dixon, Rick , Fred Dyer, 2008

27
13 The Buttress Mixed 20m, 1

Start below the overhung arete and step around left and up to right facing corner. Up and left to avoid the roof passing a truly horrible looking rusty carrot. Follow the crack to the top.

28
18 Close to the Edge Trad 20m

FA: 1979

29

FA: Malc Cochran, 1983

30
14 Catch 22 Trad 17m

FA: 1979

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