The Buttress Mostly trad climbing30 routes in cliff
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Park 300m towards town from the main gate to Boulder Bridge, Far Crag etc. There is a small car park (1-2 cars) on the S side of the road beneath the power lines.
Step over the guard rail at the yellow post and descend the very steep track to the cliff. The track can be treacherous when wet.
The cliff can also be approached from below, starting above Second Falls.©
Descent can be made on the right side (looking out)©
Ethic inherited from Morialta
Morialta is primarily a trad climbing and toproping area. Chipping, excessive chalk, litter and new bolts are all frowned upon and/or illegal.
Some routes have good natural gear, some have none (if the first ascensionist soloed it that is a good giveaway.) Most routes can be toproped and there are ring bollards in the more popular areas - use these where available and do not tie off to trees.
Any bolt repairs should be done in conjunction with the Climbing Club of South Australia.©
This is more like it. run out face climbing. Start below and L of Balance's little roof and climb directly up the wall. No pro beyond half height.
FA: Gary Scott, 1979
FA: Mike Dixon, Rick & Fred Dyer, 2008
Start below the overhung arete and step around left and up to right facing corner. Up and left to avoid the roof passing a truly horrible looking rusty carrot. Follow the crack to the top.