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Table of contents

1. The Buttress 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 138.709390, -34.909033

Unique Features And Strengths:

Tilted to RHS, so steep or overhanging> balance or power

Approach:

Parking spots down the hill from the boulder bridge / far crag parking. Room for one/two cars. Climb over the guard rail at the faded yellow colored post. Hike down the steepening path (caution: May be hard to access in the wet or after rain). Until reaching the top of the buttress with anchor setups possible for both left and right walls. Descend to the right (looking out over the buttress)

Ethic:© inherited from Morialta

Morialta is primarily a trad climbing and toproping area. Chipping, excessive chalk, litter and new bolts are all frowned upon and/or illegal.

Some routes have good natural gear, some have none (if the first ascensionist soloed it that is a good giveaway.) Most routes can be toproped and there are ring bollards in the more popular areas - use these where available and do not tie off to trees.

Any bolt repairs should be done in conjunction with the Climbing Club of South Australia.

History:©

The AUMC were exploring Morialta starting at the bottom, so this area was explored in the early 1960s before the areas further upstream. The Buttress (13) features what is probably the oldest bolt in the Adelaide hills.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Russian Roulette 12Trad
2 Fos 5Trad
3 Lemon Crack 7Trad
4 Reflections 7Trad
5 Italian Job 6Trad
6 Night Porter 8Trad
7 Death Dream 12Trad
8 Bald Overhead 8Trad
9 Gillette 12Trad 18m
10 A Gorilla Coalition

Climbs Coalition up to Gorilla My Dreams, then follows that to the top. Bad protection at the start, as with Coalition.

FA: 2012

19Trad 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 *** Gorilla My Dreams

A great route with an even better name. Follow gillette to the ledge, then step backaround the arete and jam the big diagonal crack. When it peters out prematurely at a shallow niche you're forced into a couple of steep, thin moves to gain summit brick.

FA: Colin Reece, 1977

19Trad 20m
12 Coalition 17Trad 18m
13 Gorilla My Dreams DS LHV 19Trad 18m
14 *** Gorilla My Dreams DS

Start halfway up the gully and launch directly up the wall following the bolted line. Bouldery start, then a very good rest mid-way up leads to a finger-jug at the final horizontal. Break left via a reachy move into the steep diagonal crackline, then finish up it.

21Sport 15m, 3
15 *** Gorilla My Dreams Super Direct / Gorilla My Dreams Direct Finish

Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, go directly straight up via the hanging flake/sidepull.

FA: Ascends the hanging flake to the right of the original crack finish

22Sport 15m, 3
16 ** Gorilla My Nightmare

Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, break right along the horizontal for a couple of moves, then launch upwards via underclings and a good crimp to the next horizontal. Get a brief shake, then perform a very bouldery finish via another undercling to topout.

FA: Steve Kelly

23Trad 18m
17 Tally-ho 21Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 The Buttress Chimney 7Trad
19 Street Legal

This is more like it. run out face climbing. Start below and L of Balance's little roof and climb directly up the wall. No pro beyond half height.

FA: Gary Scott, 1979

16Trad 13m
20 A Question of Balance 13Trad 15m
21 A Question of Balance DF 16Trad 15m
22 The Inverted Rasp 13Trad 16m
23 Lorikeet 13Trad
24 Swift Parrot

Close relative of Lorikeet. Start in left side of cave. Straight up crossing Lorikeet and through second roof on improving rock.

FA: Burke & Oerman

16Trad
25 * Good Training

FA: Mike Dixon, Rick , Fred Dyer, 2008

21Trad
26 * The Company of Lovers 20Trad
27 The Buttress

Start below the overhung arete and step around left and up to right facing corner. Up and left to avoid the roof passing a truly horrible looking rusty carrot. Follow the crack to the top.

13Mixed 20m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
28 Close to the Edge

FA: 1979

18Trad 20m
29 Caucasian Chalk Circle

FA: Malc Cochran, 1983

16Trad
30 Catch 22

FA: 1979

14Trad 17m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5 Fos Trad
6 Italian Job Trad
7 Lemon Crack Trad
Reflections Trad
The Buttress Chimney Trad
8 Bald Overhead Trad
Night Porter Trad
12 Death Dream Trad
Gillette Trad 18m
Russian Roulette Trad
13 A Question of Balance Trad 15m
Lorikeet Trad
The Buttress Mixed 20m, 1
The Inverted Rasp Trad 16m
14 Catch 22 Trad 17m
16 A Question of Balance DF Trad 15m
Caucasian Chalk Circle Trad
Street Legal Trad 13m
Swift Parrot Trad
17 Coalition Trad 18m
18 Close to the Edge Trad 20m
19 A Gorilla Coalition Trad 18m
*** Gorilla My Dreams Trad 20m
Gorilla My Dreams DS LHV Trad 18m
20 * The Company of Lovers Trad
21 * Good Training Trad
*** Gorilla My Dreams DS Sport 15m, 3
Tally-ho Trad
22 *** Gorilla My Dreams Super Direct Sport 15m, 3
23 ** Gorilla My Nightmare Trad 18m