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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 138.709390, -34.909033
Park 300m towards town from the main gate to Boulder Bridge, Far Crag etc. There is a small car park (1-2 cars) on the S side of the road beneath the power lines.
Step over the guard rail at the yellow post and descend the very steep track to the cliff. The track can be treacherous when wet.
The cliff can also be approached from below, starting above Second Falls.
- Descent Notes:©
Descent can be made on the right side (looking out)
- Ethic:© inherited from Morialta
Morialta is primarily a trad climbing and toproping area. Chipping, excessive chalk, litter and new bolts are all frowned upon and/or illegal.
Some routes have good natural gear, some have none (if the first ascensionist soloed it that is a good giveaway.) Most routes can be toproped and there are ring bollards in the more popular areas - use these where available and do not tie off to trees.
Any bolt repairs should be done in conjunction with the Climbing Club of South Australia.
The AUMC were exploring Morialta starting at the bottom, so this area was explored in the early 1960s before the areas further upstream. The Buttress (13) features what is probably the oldest bolt in the Adelaide hills.
A Gorilla Coalition
Gorilla My Dreams
A great route with an even better name. Follow gillette to the ledge, then step backaround the arete and jam the big diagonal crack. When it peters out prematurely at a shallow niche you're forced into a couple of steep, thin moves to gain summit brick.
FA: Colin Reece, 1977
|13||Gorilla My Dreams DS LHV||19||18m|
Gorilla My Dreams DS
Start halfway up the gully and launch directly up the wall following the bolted line. Bouldery start, then a very good rest mid-way up leads to a finger-jug at the final horizontal. Break left via a reachy move into the steep diagonal crackline, then finish up it.
Gorilla My Dreams Super Direct / Gorilla My Dreams Direct Finish
Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, go directly straight up via the hanging flake/sidepull.
FA: Ascends the hanging flake to the right of the original crack finish
Gorilla My Nightmare
Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, break right along the horizontal for a couple of moves, then launch upwards via underclings and a good crimp to the next horizontal. Get a brief shake, then perform a very bouldery finish via another undercling to topout.
FA: Steve Kelly
|18||The Buttress Chimney||7|
This is more like it. run out face climbing. Start below and L of Balance's little roof and climb directly up the wall. No pro beyond half height.
FA: Gary Scott, 1979
|20||A Question of Balance||13||15m|
|21||A Question of Balance DF||16||15m|
|22||The Inverted Rasp||13||16m|
FA: Burke & Oerman
FA: Mike Dixon, Rick , Fred Dyer, 2008
|26||The Company of Lovers||20|
Start below the overhung arete and step around left and up to right facing corner. Up and left to avoid the roof passing a truly horrible looking rusty carrot. Follow the crack to the top.
Close to the Edge
Caucasian Chalk Circle
FA: Malc Cochran, 1983
|The Buttress Chimney|
|13||A Question of Balance||15m|
|The Inverted Rasp||16m|
|16||A Question of Balance DF||15m|
|Caucasian Chalk Circle|
|18||Close to the Edge||20m|
|19||A Gorilla Coalition||18m|
|Gorilla My Dreams||20m|
|Gorilla My Dreams DS LHV||18m|
|20||The Company of Lovers|
|Gorilla My Dreams DS||315m,|
|22||Gorilla My Dreams Super Direct||315m,|
|23||Gorilla My Nightmare||18m|