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Table of contents

1. The Buttress 30 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 138.709390, -34.909033

Unique Features And Strengths:

Tilted to RHS, so steep or overhanging> balance or power


Parking spots down the hill from the boulder bridge / far crag parking. Room for one/two cars. Climb over the guard rail at the faded yellow colored post. Hike down the steepening path (caution: May be hard to access in the wet or after rain). Until reaching the top of the buttress with anchor setups possible for both left and right walls. Descend to the right (looking out over the buttress)

Ethic: inherited from Morialta

Morialta provides a place for both traditional and sport climbing, some routes with great gear some with none. However almost everything can be toproped and most are serviced by ring bollards. The gully has been climbed on for decades so there are very few unclimbed lines left. New bolting is banned and any bolt repairs should be done in conjunction with the Climbing Club of South Australia.


The AUMC were exploring Morialta starting at the bottom, so this area was explored in the early 1960s before the areas further upstream. The Buttress (13) features what is probably the oldest bolt in the Adelaide hills.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Russian Roulette 12Trad Paul Badenoch 17 years ago

Short but interesting.

2 Fos 5Trad Paul Badenoch 17 years ago


3 Lemon Crack 7Trad Paul Badenoch 17 years ago


4 Reflections 7Trad Paul Badenoch 17 years ago


5 Italian Job 6Trad Paul Badenoch 17 years ago


6 Night Porter 8Trad Paul Badenoch 17 years ago


7 Death Dream 12Trad Paul Badenoch 17 years ago

An improvement on the routes to the L.

8 Bald Overhead 8Trad Paul Badenoch 17 years ago

As for Death Dream.

9 Gillette 12Trad 18m Paul Badenoch 14 years ago

One exciting move near the top.

Paul Badenoch 16 years ago

Worthwhile, but only just.

10 A Gorilla Coalition

Climbs Coalition up to Gorilla My Dreams, then follows that to the top. Bad protection at the start, as with Coalition.

FA: 2012

19Trad 18m Garth Wimbush 1 years ago

Should lead this one day.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 *** Gorilla My Dreams

A great route with an even better name. Follow gillette to the ledge, then step backaround the arete and jam the big diagonal crack. When it peters out prematurely at a shallow niche you're forced into a couple of steep, thin moves to gain summit brick.

FA: Colin Reece, 1977

19Trad 20m KinkyBoy 1 years ago

Interesting thought provoking moves through a crack.

Garth Wimbush 1 years ago

First time on the full route, but I have done the harder bits before.

12 Coalition 17Trad 18m Paul Badenoch 14 years ago

Bit tricky above GMD.

13 Gorilla My Dreams DS LHV 19Trad 18m Cameron Roy 1 years ago

Up to the crack is nice but not worth writing home about. A couple of moves in the offwidth crack...

Paul Badenoch 16 years ago

Fills the gap.

14 *** Gorilla My Dreams DS

Start halfway up the gully and launch directly up the wall following the bolted line. Bouldery start, then a very good rest mid-way up leads to a finger-jug at the final horizontal. Break left via a reachy move into the steep diagonal crackline, then finish up it.

21Sport 15m, 3 Cameron Roy 1 years ago

Reminds me of fascination which reminds me of muesli. (Gently overhanging left facing flake with ...

KinkyBoy 1 years ago

I DID IT! No more dreaming about it during my sleep. I cleanly lead it from the ground up, no ext...

15 *** Gorilla My Dreams Super Direct / Gorilla My Dreams Direct Finish

Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, go directly straight up via the hanging flake/sidepull.

FA: Ascends the hanging flake to the right of the original crack finish

22Sport 15m, 3 Garth Wimbush 1 years ago

Actually I reckon this climb is more like 23, but I don't know anyone else who has done it.

Garth Wimbush 1 years ago

Finally got this on pink after taking a 3m lob on the redpoint attempt. Really nice moves onto t...

16 ** Gorilla My Nightmare

Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, break right along the horizontal for a couple of moves, then launch upwards via underclings and a good crimp to the next horizontal. Get a brief shake, then perform a very bouldery finish via another undercling to topout.

FA: Steve Kelly

23Trad 18m Steve 14 years ago

Very bouldery finish on underclings

17 Tally-ho 21Trad Garth Wimbush 1 years ago

Interesting. My chackbag touched the back wall, so does this count? 23 in the Hills Guide, but I ...

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 The Buttress Chimney 7Trad Cameron Roy 3 years ago

Walking up the back of the chimney in the dirty choss isnt much fun. The top out is good fun thou...

Andrew Millar 8 years ago

Dirty climb, loose and filthy

19 Street Legal

This is more like it. run out face climbing. Start below and L of Balance's little roof and climb directly up the wall. No pro beyond half height.

FA: Gary Scott, 1979

16Trad 13m Cameron Roy 1 years ago

Nothing special.

Garth Wimbush 1 years ago

A self belay while waiting for the others.

20 A Question of Balance 13Trad 15m Cameron Roy 1 years ago

Pleasant enough.

KinkyBoy 1 years ago

Warm up

21 A Question of Balance DF 16Trad 15m Adam Clay 7 years ago

Very enjoyable

Paul Badenoch 11 years ago

Struggles for independence.

22 The Inverted Rasp 13Trad 16m Cameron Roy 1 years ago


Paul Badenoch 11 years ago

Not absolutely confident about the rock.

23 Lorikeet 13Trad Cameron Roy 1 years ago

One interesting bit moving across and around the roof.

Paul Badenoch 17 years ago

Felt hard for the grade, from memory.

24 Swift Parrot

Close relative of Lorikeet. Start in left side of cave. Straight up crossing Lorikeet and through second roof on improving rock.

FA: Burke & Oerman

16Trad Cameron Roy 1 years ago

Bouldery start through the big roof out of the cave is easier than it looks but quite satisfying....

Paul Badenoch 9 years ago

Chris was insistent.

25 * Good Training

FA: Mike Dixon, Rick , Fred Dyer, 2008

21Trad Mike Dixon 6 years ago

Start from inside the cave, climb thru gap and onto ledge. Tackle overhang head on. Continue to t...

26 * The Company of Lovers 20Trad Cameron Roy 1 years ago

Contrived indeed. I tried to traverse all the way along the lip but ran into some truly horrendou...

Paul Badenoch 13 years ago

A bit contrived for my liking.

27 The Buttress

Start below the overhung arete and step around left and up to right facing corner. Up and left to avoid the roof passing a truly horrible looking rusty carrot. Follow the crack to the top.

13Mixed 20m, 1 Cameron Roy 1 years ago

That carrot looks like it needs to go in a CCSA museum. No longer required due to the invention o...

Cameron Roy 3 years ago

With Michael.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
28 Close to the Edge

FA: 1979

18Trad 20m Cameron Roy 1 years ago

Climbed on both the L and R of the arete. Some poor rock along the way added to the fun.

Phil Davis 8 years ago

Self Belay: A couple of nice moves made extra tough by seepage and a bung knee from falling down ...

29 Caucasian Chalk Circle

FA: Malc Cochran, 1983

16Trad Cameron Roy 1 years ago

Sustained and gently overhanging.

Adam Clay 6 years ago

Last climb of the day, climbed then down-climbed it.

30 Catch 22

FA: 1979

14Trad 17m Adam Clay 6 years ago

I climbed to the left of this, nearer the arete... seemed harder than 14, more like 20ish... noth...

Paul Badenoch 14 years ago

Has its moments. Rock becomes increasingly sus.

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5 Fos Trad
6 Italian Job Trad
7 Lemon Crack Trad
Reflections Trad
The Buttress Chimney Trad
8 Bald Overhead Trad
Night Porter Trad
12 Death Dream Trad
Gillette Trad 18m
Russian Roulette Trad
13 A Question of Balance Trad 15m
Lorikeet Trad
The Buttress Mixed 20m, 1
The Inverted Rasp Trad 16m
14 Catch 22 Trad 17m
16 A Question of Balance DF Trad 15m
Caucasian Chalk Circle Trad
Street Legal Trad 13m
Swift Parrot Trad
17 Coalition Trad 18m
18 Close to the Edge Trad 20m
19 A Gorilla Coalition Trad 18m
*** Gorilla My Dreams Trad 20m
Gorilla My Dreams DS LHV Trad 18m
20 * The Company of Lovers Trad
21 * Good Training Trad
*** Gorilla My Dreams DS Sport 15m, 3
Tally-ho Trad
22 *** Gorilla My Dreams Super Direct Sport 15m, 3
23 ** Gorilla My Nightmare Trad 18m