Showing all 30 routes.
|23||★★ Gorilla My Nightmare
Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, break right along the horizontal for a couple of moves, then launch upwards via underclings and a good crimp to the next horizontal. Get a brief shake, then perform a very bouldery finish via another undercling to topout.
FA: Steve Kelly
|22||★★ Gorilla My Dreams Super Direct
Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, go directly straight up via the hanging flake/sidepull.
FA: Ascends the hanging flake to the right of the original crack finish
|21||★ Good Training
FA: Mike Dixon, Rick & Fred Dyer, 2008
|21||★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS
Start halfway up the gully and launch directly up the wall following the bolted line. Bouldery start, then a very good rest mid-way up leads to a finger-jug at the final horizontal. Break left via a reachy move into the steep diagonal crackline, then finish up it.
|20||The Company of Lovers
|19||★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS LHV
|19||★★ Gorilla My Dreams
A great route with an even better name. Follow gillette to the ledge, then step backaround the arete and jam the big diagonal crack. When it peters out prematurely at a shallow niche you're forced into a couple of steep, thin moves to gain summit brick.
FA: Colin Reece, 1977
|19||★ A Gorilla Coalition
Climbs Coalition up to Gorilla My Dreams, then follows that to the top. Bad protection at the start, as with Coalition.
FA: 6 May 2012
|18||★ Close to the Edge
|16||★ Caucasian Chalk Circle
FA: Malc Cochran, 1983
Close relative of Lorikeet. Start in left side of cave. Straight up crossing Lorikeet and through second roof on improving rock.
FA: Burke & Oerman
|16||★ A Question of Balance DF
|16||★ Street Legal
This is more like it. run out face climbing. Start below and L of Balance's little roof and climb directly up the wall. No pro beyond half height.
FA: Gary Scott, 1979
|14||★ Catch 22
|13||★ The Buttress
Start below the overhung arete and step around left and up to right facing corner. Up and left to avoid the roof passing a truly horrible looking rusty carrot. Follow the crack to the top.
|13||★ The Inverted Rasp
|13||★ A Question of Balance
|7||The Buttress Chimney
Showing all 30 routes.