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Routes in The Buttress

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Showing all 30 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
23
23 Gorilla My Nightmare

Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, break right along the horizontal for a couple of moves, then launch upwards via underclings and a good crimp to the next horizontal. Get a brief shake, then perform a very bouldery finish via another undercling to topout.

FA: Steve Kelly

Trad 18m
22
22 Gorilla My Dreams Super Direct

Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, go directly straight up via the hanging flake/sidepull.

FA: Ascends the hanging flake to the right of the original crack finish

Sport 15m, 3
21
21 Good Training

FA: Mike Dixon, Rick & Fred Dyer, 2008

Trad
21 Tally-ho
Trad
21 Gorilla My Dreams DS

Start halfway up the gully and launch directly up the wall following the bolted line. Bouldery start, then a very good rest mid-way up leads to a finger-jug at the final horizontal. Break left via a reachy move into the steep diagonal crackline, then finish up it.

Sport 15m, 3
20
20 The Company of Lovers
Trad
19
19 Gorilla My Dreams DS LHV
Trad 18m
19 Gorilla My Dreams

A great route with an even better name. Follow gillette to the ledge, then step backaround the arete and jam the big diagonal crack. When it peters out prematurely at a shallow niche you're forced into a couple of steep, thin moves to gain summit brick.

FA: Colin Reece, 1977

Trad 20m
19 A Gorilla Coalition

Climbs Coalition up to Gorilla My Dreams, then follows that to the top. Bad protection at the start, as with Coalition.

FA: 6 May 2012

Trad 18m
18
18 Close to the Edge

FA: 1979

Trad 20m
17
17 Coalition
Trad 18m
16
16 Caucasian Chalk Circle

FA: Malc Cochran, 1983

Trad 17m
16 Swift Parrot

Close relative of Lorikeet. Start in left side of cave. Straight up crossing Lorikeet and through second roof on improving rock.

FA: Burke & Oerman

Trad
16 A Question of Balance DF
Trad 15m
16 Street Legal

This is more like it. run out face climbing. Start below and L of Balance's little roof and climb directly up the wall. No pro beyond half height.

FA: Gary Scott, 1979

Trad 13m
14
14 Catch 22

FA: 1979

Trad 17m
13
13 The Buttress

Start below the overhung arete and step around left and up to right facing corner. Up and left to avoid the roof passing a truly horrible looking rusty carrot. Follow the crack to the top.

Mixed 20m, 1
13 Lorikeet
Trad 18m
13 The Inverted Rasp
Trad 16m
13 A Question of Balance
Trad 15m
12
12 Gillette
Trad 18m
12 Death Dream
Trad 9m
12 Russian Roulette
Trad
8
8 Bald Overhead
Trad
8 Night Porter
Trad
7
7 The Buttress Chimney
Trad
7 Reflections
Trad
7 Lemon Crack
Trad
6
6 Italian Job
Trad
5
5 Fos
Trad

Showing all 30 routes.