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30 routes in The Buttress Back to index

  • Note: Routes with multiple FA / FFA are duplicated.
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Showing all 30 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Unknown year
12 Death Dream
Trad 9m Morialta
13 * A Question of Balance
Trad 15m Morialta
22 ** Gorilla My Dreams Super Direct

Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, go directly straight up via the hanging flake/sidepull.

FA: Ascends the hanging flake to the right of the original crack finish

Sport 15m, 3 Morialta
8 Bald Overhead
Trad Morialta
16 * A Question of Balance DF
Trad 15m Morialta
12 Gillette
Trad 18m Morialta
13 * The Inverted Rasp
Trad 16m Morialta
13 Lorikeet
Trad 18m Morialta
17 * Coalition
Trad 18m Morialta
16 Swift Parrot

Close relative of Lorikeet. Start in left side of cave. Straight up crossing Lorikeet and through second roof on improving rock.

FA: Burke & Oerman

Trad Morialta
12 Russian Roulette
Trad Morialta
21 ** Gorilla My Dreams DS

Start halfway up the gully and launch directly up the wall following the bolted line. Bouldery start, then a very good rest mid-way up leads to a finger-jug at the final horizontal. Break left via a reachy move into the steep diagonal crackline, then finish up it.

Sport 15m, 3 Morialta
5 Fos
Trad Morialta
19 ** Gorilla My Dreams DS LHV
Trad 18m Morialta
20 The Company of Lovers
Trad Morialta
7 Lemon Crack
Trad Morialta
23 ** Gorilla My Nightmare

Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, break right along the horizontal for a couple of moves, then launch upwards via underclings and a good crimp to the next horizontal. Get a brief shake, then perform a very bouldery finish via another undercling to topout.

FA: Steve Kelly

Trad 18m Morialta
13 * The Buttress

Start below the overhung arete and step around left and up to right facing corner. Up and left to avoid the roof passing a truly horrible looking rusty carrot. Follow the crack to the top.

Mixed 20m, 1 Morialta
7 Reflections
Trad Morialta
21 * Tally-ho
Trad Morialta
6 Italian Job
Trad Morialta
7 The Buttress Chimney
Trad Morialta
8 Night Porter
Trad Morialta
19 ** Gorilla My Dreams

A great route with an even better name. Follow gillette to the ledge, then step backaround the arete and jam the big diagonal crack. When it peters out prematurely at a shallow niche you're forced into a couple of steep, thin moves to gain summit brick.

FA: Colin Reece, 1977

Trad 20m Morialta
16 * Street Legal

This is more like it. run out face climbing. Start below and L of Balance's little roof and climb directly up the wall. No pro beyond half height.

FA: Gary Scott, 1979

Trad 13m Morialta
14 * Catch 22

FA: 1979

Trad 17m Morialta
18 * Close to the Edge

FA: 1979

Trad 20m Morialta
16 * Caucasian Chalk Circle

FA: Malc Cochran, 1983

Trad 17m Morialta
21 * Good Training

FA: Mike Dixon, Rick & Fred Dyer, 2008

Trad Morialta
19 * A Gorilla Coalition

Climbs Coalition up to Gorilla My Dreams, then follows that to the top. Bad protection at the start, as with Coalition.

FA: 2012

Trad 18m Morialta

Showing all 30 routes.