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Routes in The Buttress

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Showing all 30 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Unknown year
13 The Buttress

Start below the overhung arete and step around left and up to right facing corner. Up and left to avoid the roof passing a truly horrible looking rusty carrot. Follow the crack to the top.

Mixed 20m, 1 Morialta
7 Reflections
Trad Morialta
21 Tally-ho
Trad Morialta
6 Italian Job
Trad Morialta
7 The Buttress Chimney
Trad Morialta
8 Night Porter
Trad Morialta
12 Death Dream
Trad 9m Morialta
13 A Question of Balance
Trad 15m Morialta
22 Gorilla My Dreams Super Direct

Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, go directly straight up via the hanging flake/sidepull.

FA: Ascends the hanging flake to the right of the original crack finish

Sport 15m, 3 Morialta
8 Bald Overhead
Trad Morialta
16 A Question of Balance DF
Trad 15m Morialta
12 Gillette
Trad 18m Morialta
13 The Inverted Rasp
Trad 16m Morialta
13 Lorikeet
Trad 18m Morialta
17 Coalition
Trad 18m Morialta
16 Swift Parrot

Close relative of Lorikeet. Start in left side of cave. Straight up crossing Lorikeet and through second roof on improving rock.

FA: Burke & Oerman

Trad Morialta
12 Russian Roulette
Trad Morialta
21 Gorilla My Dreams DS

Start halfway up the gully and launch directly up the wall following the bolted line. Bouldery start, then a very good rest mid-way up leads to a finger-jug at the final horizontal. Break left via a reachy move into the steep diagonal crackline, then finish up it.

Sport 15m, 3 Morialta
5 Fos
Trad Morialta
19 Gorilla My Dreams DS LHV
Trad 18m Morialta
20 The Company of Lovers
Trad Morialta
7 Lemon Crack
Trad Morialta
23 Gorilla My Nightmare

Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, break right along the horizontal for a couple of moves, then launch upwards via underclings and a good crimp to the next horizontal. Get a brief shake, then perform a very bouldery finish via another undercling to topout.

FA: Steve Kelly

Trad 18m Morialta
1977
19 Gorilla My Dreams

A great route with an even better name. Follow gillette to the ledge, then step backaround the arete and jam the big diagonal crack. When it peters out prematurely at a shallow niche you're forced into a couple of steep, thin moves to gain summit brick.

FA: Colin Reece, 1977

Trad 20m Morialta
1979
16 Street Legal

This is more like it. run out face climbing. Start below and L of Balance's little roof and climb directly up the wall. No pro beyond half height.

FA: Gary Scott, 1979

Trad 13m Morialta
14 Catch 22

FA: 1979

Trad 17m Morialta
18 Close to the Edge

FA: 1979

Trad 20m Morialta
1983
16 Caucasian Chalk Circle

FA: Malc Cochran, 1983

Trad 17m Morialta
2008
21 Good Training

FA: Mike Dixon, Rick & Fred Dyer, 2008

Trad Morialta
2012
19 A Gorilla Coalition

Climbs Coalition up to Gorilla My Dreams, then follows that to the top. Bad protection at the start, as with Coalition.

FA: 6 May 2012

Trad 18m Morialta

Showing all 30 routes.