The Buttress Chimney Left Face

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
11 *** Gorilla My Dreams

A great route with an even better name. Follow gillette to the ledge, then step backaround the arete and jam the big diagonal crack. When it peters out prematurely at a shallow niche you're forced into a couple of steep, thin moves to gain summit brick.

19 Trad 20m Unlink route
12 Coalition
17 Trad 18m Unlink route
13 Gorilla My Dreams DS LHV
19 Trad 18m Unlink route
14 *** Gorilla My Dreams DS

Start halfway up the gully and launch directly up the wall following the bolted line. Bouldery start, then a very good rest mid-way up leads to a finger-jug at the final horizontal. Break left via a reachy move into the steep diagonal crackline, then finish up it.

21 Sport 15m, 3 Unlink route
15 *** Gorilla My Dreams Super Direct

Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, go directly straight up via the hanging flake/sidepull.

22 Sport 15m, 3 Unlink route
16 ** Gorilla My Nightmare

Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, break right along the horizontal for a couple of moves, then launch upwards via underclings and a good crimp to the next horizontal. Get a brief shake, then perform a very bouldery finish via another undercling to topout.

23 Trad 18m Unlink route
17 Tally-ho
21 Trad Unlink route

The Buttress Chimney Right Face

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
18 The Buttress Chimney
7 Trad Unlink route
19 Street Legal

This is more like it. run out face climbing. Start below and L of Balance's little roof and climb directly up the wall. No pro beyond half height.

16 Trad 13m Unlink route
20 A Question of Balance
13 Trad 15m Unlink route

The Buttress Right Face

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
28 Close to the Edge
18 Trad 20m Unlink route
29 Caucasian Chalk Circle
16 Trad Unlink route
30 Catch 22
14 Trad 17m Unlink route