Topo #1710 - The Buttress Chimney Left Face

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Route Grade Popularity Style
11 *** Gorilla My Dreams

A great route with an even better name. Follow gillette to the ledge, then step backaround the arete and jam the big diagonal crack. When it peters out prematurely at a shallow niche you're forced into a couple of steep, thin moves to gain summit brick.

19 Trad 20m Unlink route
12 Coalition
17 Trad 18m Unlink route
13 Gorilla My Dreams DS LHV
19 Trad 18m Unlink route
14 *** Gorilla My Dreams DS

Start halfway up the gully and launch directly up the wall following the bolted line. Bouldery start, then a very good rest mid-way up leads to a finger-jug at the final horizontal. Break left via a reachy move into the steep diagonal crackline, then finish up it.

21 Sport 15m, 3 Unlink route
15 *** Gorilla My Dreams Super Direct

Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, go directly straight up via the hanging flake/sidepull.

22 Sport 15m, 3 Unlink route
16 ** Gorilla My Nightmare

Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, break right along the horizontal for a couple of moves, then launch upwards via underclings and a good crimp to the next horizontal. Get a brief shake, then perform a very bouldery finish via another undercling to topout.

23 Trad 18m Unlink route
17 Tally-ho
21 Trad Unlink route

Topo #1708 - The Buttress Chimney Right Face

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Route Grade Popularity Style
18 The Buttress Chimney
7 Trad Unlink route
19 Street Legal

This is more like it. run out face climbing. Start below and L of Balance's little roof and climb directly up the wall. No pro beyond half height.

16 Trad 13m Unlink route
20 A Question of Balance
13 Trad 15m Unlink route

Topo #7555 - The Buttress Front Fce

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Route Grade Popularity Style
20 A Question of Balance
13 Trad 15m Unlink route
21 A Question of Balance DF
16 Trad 15m Unlink route
22 The Inverted Rasp
13 Trad 16m Unlink route
23 Lorikeet
13 Trad Unlink route
24 Swift Parrot

Close relative of Lorikeet. Start in left side of cave. Straight up crossing Lorikeet and through second roof on improving rock.

16 Trad Unlink route
25 * Good Training
21 Trad Unlink route
26 * The Company of Lovers
20 Trad Unlink route
27 The Buttress

Start below the overhung arete and step around left and up to right facing corner. Up and left to avoid the roof passing a truly horrible looking rusty carrot. Follow the crack to the top.

13 Mixed 20m, 1 Unlink route
28 Close to the Edge
18 Trad 20m Unlink route

Topo #1709 - The Buttress Right Face

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Route Grade Popularity Style
28 Close to the Edge
18 Trad 20m Unlink route
29 Caucasian Chalk Circle
16 Trad Unlink route
30 Catch 22
14 Trad 17m Unlink route

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