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Summary

The best sport climbing crag is southern Tasmania features overhanging climbing on juggy featured dolerite rock. Pounding waves and stunning views to Cape Raoul compliment this atmospheric venue.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 Mixed Groceries Sport 10m, 3

The bolted arête to the L of 'Shock Wave'. Easy start leads to some balancy moves up to the top. 3 FH to lower-off. S.Young, Jan 07.

2
21 ** Shock Wave Sport 13m, 5

This climb lies about 45m from the LH end of the cliffs. Follow 5 bolts up the overhanging arête to a lower off. Quite a pumpy little route. R.Parkyn, Aug 95.

3
20 * Lost Souls Trad 13m
4
16 Unzip Sport 13m

Climb the easier angled arête immediately to the R of 'Lost Souls'. Start in the diagonal crack about 1m to its right, on less than perfect rock. H.Jackson, May 94.

5
17 * High Noon Sport 10m, 4

Between 'Unzip' and 'Winkle' climb the face past 4 bolt runners to a rap station. An excellent warm up route. G.Phillips, Oct 95.

6
22 * Sponge Bob Sport 12m

Start in the wide crack right of 'High Noon' (or climb directly up the face) step L onto the face, interesting climbing past U bolts to DBB. E. Bradley, A. Williams, J Spong, 2004.

7
15 * Winkle Trad 13m

Takes the chimney 8m R of 'Unzip'. Very pleasant, easy climbing. B.McMahon, M.Jackson, Sep 94.

8
15 Borogove Trad 18m
9
17 * Stolopin Trad 20m
10
23 ** Super Charger Sport 20m, 6
11
12
25 *** Captain Napalm Sport 20m, 6

Bolted route between Supercharger, and the R facing 'Bagpipe' corner. Thin technical face, to roof then powerful crux move to bollard and a welcome rest. The difficulty then eases to a DBB.

13
25 * Bagpipe Original Sport 20m, 6
14
25 *** Bagpipe Remix Sport 20m, 6
15
24 *** Thunder Birds Are Go Sport 25m, 9

Popular route with a testing initial wall, followed by a dynamic crux. If you make it through all that to the ledge at 3/4 height your doing well. Its in the bag.....isn't it? Fully bolted with a DBB.

16
24 ** Kraken Mixed 25m, 3

Right of TBAG is an initially bolted wall leading to a left trending traditionaly protected crackline that joins OOTF below its final roof. DBB.

17
25 ** Sac de le Douche Sport 25m

Sustained climb.

18
24 *** Offender Of The Faith Sport 30m, 10
19
25 ** Southern Exposure Sport 25m
20
25 *** Sultan Of Sweat Sport 32m, 12

One of the classics of the crag. Long and pumpy, on positive holds, until the final rooflet is mounted and the mood of the route changes. The initial roof is regarded as the crux, but the final rising traverse to the DBB is a heartbreaker.

21
26 ** No Name Sport 30m
22
27 *** Expendable Youth Sport 27m
23
27 *** Snooze and You Lose Sport 28m
26
28 ** Expendable Amnesia Sport 40m
27
25 *** Retrograde Amnesia Sport 35m

The final corner provides a technical bridging crux sequence, a long way above the pounding waves. 60m rope required.

28
22 ** Amnesia Sport 25m, 10

If you forget about the last 3 bolts of Retrograde Amnesia you have amnesia but it does make for an awesome warm up 22 (the 4th & 5th last bolt has a single fixed bineer lower off.

29
25 *** Hit and Run Sport 27m
30
30 *** Captain Jack Sport 20m
31
27 *** Total Recall Sport 35m

FA: Nick Hancock

32
26 *** Number One Sport 25m
33
21 * Man's Machine Sport 32m, 10

A long and varied pitch up the right trending corner system that seperates the main overhanging portion of the Paradisio (on the left) from the more sympatheticaly angled wall (on the right). DBB.

FA: S Young, 2012

34
24 Random People Sport 15m
35
21 * K2 Sport 55m

Two pitch sport route. Starts at short right facing corner from sloping ledge. P1(25m 21). P2 (30m 21).

FA: G. Phillips and A. Lewis, 2010

36
18 Dominion Sport 40m
37
16 * Six Bells Chime Trad 25m
38
16 * Blue Lotus Trad 30m
39
18 * Chasing The Dragon Trad 30m
40
22 *** Too Tall Oxen Sport 32m

A long pitch of overhanging climbing, starting at the left end of the wave platform seperating tha Paradiso proper from the Aquaphobia Wall. Long reaches between incut holds characterise this line, which has been known to shed the odd piece of rock. Popular warmup for the harder routes, or a greatpitch to work in its own right. DBB.

41
18 * Vena Cava Trad 40m
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26 *** Ready, Steady, Go Sport 18m
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20 ** Ilkley Roof Trad 25m
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24 * Team Caffeine Sport 20m
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26 * Show Time Sport 25m
46
22 *** Aquaphobia Sport 25m
48
25 * Deep Blue Sport 20m
49
18 * Carthage Trad 28m
50
16 Ad Parnassum Trad 30m
51
28 *** Deja Vu Sport 35m
52
24 ** Aide-memoire Sport 33m, 14

A long pitch of vertical wall climbing at the far right of the Paradiso. Needs a low swell day for safe access to the start ledge. Straight up from ledge, then traverse right at the fourth bolt (as for De Ja Vue) on tiny crimps. From bolt five blast straight up. Can be done on a 60m rope with a bit of dodgyness..

53
V3 Master Of Disaster Boulder 20m

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