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Topo #2208

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 Mixed Groceries

The bolted arête to the L of 'Shock Wave'. Easy start leads to some balancy moves up to the top. 3 FH to lower-off. S.Young, Jan 07.

17
Sport 10m , 3
2 ** Shock Wave

This climb lies about 45m from the LH end of the cliffs. Follow 5 bolts up the overhanging arête to a lower off. Quite a pumpy little route. R.Parkyn, Aug 95.

21
Sport 13m , 5
3 * Lost Souls
20
Trad 13m
4 Unzip

Climb the easier angled arête immediately to the R of 'Lost Souls'. Start in the diagonal crack about 1m to its right, on less than perfect rock. H.Jackson, May 94.

16
Sport 13m
5 * High Noon

Between 'Unzip' and 'Winkle' climb the face past 4 bolt runners to a rap station. An excellent warm up route. G.Phillips, Oct 95.

17
Sport 10m , 4
6 * Sponge Bob

Start in the wide crack right of 'High Noon' (or climb directly up the face) step L onto the face, interesting climbing past U bolts to DBB. E. Bradley, A. Williams, J Spong, 2004.

22
Sport 12m
7 * Winkle

Takes the chimney 8m R of 'Unzip'. Very pleasant, easy climbing. B.McMahon, M.Jackson, Sep 94.

15
Trad 13m
9 * Stolopin
17
Trad 20m

The Paradiso - Left

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10 ** Super Charger
23
Sport 20m , 6
11 ** Belly Of The Beasts
22
Trad 23m
12 *** Captain Napalm

Bolted route between Supercharger, and the R facing 'Bagpipe' corner. Thin technical face, to roof then powerful crux move to bollard and a welcome rest. The difficulty then eases to a DBB.

25
Sport 20m , 6
13 * Bagpipe Original
25
Sport 20m , 6
14 *** Bagpipe Remix
25
Sport 20m , 6
15 *** Thunder Birds Are Go

Popular route with a testing initial wall, followed by a dynamic crux. If you make it through all that to the ledge at 3/4 height your doing well. Its in the bag.....isn't it? Fully bolted with a DBB.

24
Sport 25m , 9
16 ** Kraken

Right of TBAG is an initially bolted wall leading to a left trending traditionaly protected crackline that joins OOTF below its final roof. DBB.

24
Mixed 25m , 3
17 ** Sac de le Douche

Sustained climb.

25
Sport 25m
18 *** Offender Of The Faith
24
Sport 30m , 10

Topo #2209

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Route Grade Popularity Style
19 ** Southern Exposure
25
Sport 25m
20 *** Sultan Of Sweat

One of the classics of the crag. Long and pumpy, on positive holds, until the final rooflet is mounted and the mood of the route changes. The initial roof is regarded as the crux, but the final rising traverse to the DBB is a heartbreaker.

25
Sport 32m , 12
21 ** No Name
26
Sport 30m
23 *** Snooze and You Lose
27
Sport 28m
22 *** Expendable Youth
27
Sport 27m
24 Project 1 - Garry Phillips
Sport Project
25 Project 2 - Garry Phillips
Sport Project
26 ** Expendable Amnesia
28
Sport 40m
27 *** Retrograde Amnesia

The final corner provides a technical bridging crux sequence, a long way above the pounding waves. 60m rope required.

25
Sport 35m
28 ** Amnesia

If you forget about the last 3 bolts of Retrograde Amnesia you have amnesia but it does make for an awesome warm up 22 (the 4th & 5th last bolt has a single fixed bineer lower off.

22
Sport 25m , 10
29 *** Hit and Run
25
Sport 27m
30 *** Captain Jack
30
Sport 20m
32 *** Number One
26
Sport 25m
31 *** Total Recall
27
Sport 35m
33 * Man's Machine

A long and varied pitch up the right trending corner system that seperates the main overhanging portion of the Paradisio (on the left) from the more sympatheticaly angled wall (on the right). DBB.

21
Sport 32m , 10
34 Random People
24
Sport 15m

Topo #2210

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Route Grade Popularity Style
35 * K2

Two pitch sport route. Starts at short right facing corner from sloping ledge. P1(25m 21). P2 (30m 21).

21
Sport 55m
40 *** Too Tall Oxen

A long pitch of overhanging climbing, starting at the left end of the wave platform seperating tha Paradiso proper from the Aquaphobia Wall. Long reaches between incut holds characterise this line, which has been known to shed the odd piece of rock. Popular warmup for the harder routes, or a greatpitch to work in its own right. DBB.

22
Sport 32m
42 *** Ready, Steady, Go
26
Sport 18m