Topo #2208

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 Mixed Groceries

The bolted arête to the L of 'Shock Wave'. Easy start leads to some balancy moves up to the top. 3 FH to lower-off. S.Young, Jan 07.

17 Sport 10m, 3 Unlink route
2 ** Shock Wave

This climb lies about 45m from the LH end of the cliffs. Follow 5 bolts up the overhanging arête to a lower off. Quite a pumpy little route. R.Parkyn, Aug 95.

21 Sport 13m, 5 Unlink route
3 * Lost Souls
20 Trad 13m Unlink route
4 Unzip

Climb the easier angled arête immediately to the R of 'Lost Souls'. Start in the diagonal crack about 1m to its right, on less than perfect rock. H.Jackson, May 94.

16 Sport 13m Unlink route
5 * High Noon

Between 'Unzip' and 'Winkle' climb the face past 4 bolt runners to a rap station. An excellent warm up route. G.Phillips, Oct 95.

17 Sport 10m, 4 Unlink route
6 * Sponge Bob

Start in the wide crack right of 'High Noon' (or climb directly up the face) step L onto the face, interesting climbing past U bolts to DBB. E. Bradley, A. Williams, J Spong, 2004.

22 Sport 12m Unlink route
7 * Winkle

Takes the chimney 8m R of 'Unzip'. Very pleasant, easy climbing. B.McMahon, M.Jackson, Sep 94.

15 Trad 13m Unlink route
9 * Stolopin
17 Trad 20m Unlink route

Topo #1714 - The Paradiso - Left

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Route Grade Popularity Style
10 ** Super Charger
23 Sport 20m, 6 Unlink route
11 ** Belly Of The Beasts
22 Trad 23m Unlink route
12 *** Captain Napalm

Bolted route between Supercharger, and the R facing 'Bagpipe' corner. Thin technical face, to roof then powerful crux move to bollard and a welcome rest. The difficulty then eases to a DBB.

25 Sport 20m, 6 Unlink route
13 * Bagpipe Original
25 Sport 20m, 6 Unlink route
14 *** Bagpipe Remix
25 Sport 20m, 6 Unlink route
15 *** Thunder Birds Are Go

Popular route with a testing initial wall, followed by a dynamic crux. If you make it through all that to the ledge at 3/4 height your doing well. Its in the bag.....isn't it? Fully bolted with a DBB.

24 Sport 25m, 9 Unlink route
16 ** Kraken

Right of TBAG is an initially bolted wall leading to a left trending traditionaly protected crackline that joins OOTF below its final roof. DBB.

24 Mixed 25m, 3 Unlink route
17 ** Sac de le Douche

Sustained climb.

25 Sport 25m Unlink route
18 *** Offender Of The Faith
24 Sport 30m, 10 Unlink route

Topo #2209

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Route Grade Popularity Style
19 ** Southern Exposure
25 Sport 25m Unlink route
20 *** Sultan Of Sweat

One of the classics of the crag. Long and pumpy, on positive holds, until the final rooflet is mounted and the mood of the route changes. The initial roof is regarded as the crux, but the final rising traverse to the DBB is a heartbreaker.

25 Sport 32m, 12 Unlink route
21 ** No Name
26 Sport 30m Unlink route
23 *** Snooze and You Lose
27 Sport 28m Unlink route
22 *** Expendable Youth
27 Sport 27m Unlink route
24 Project 1 - Garry Phillips
Sport Project Unlink route
25 Project 2 - Garry Phillips
Sport Project Unlink route
26 ** Expendable Amnesia
28 Sport 40m Unlink route
27 *** Retrograde Amnesia

The final corner provides a technical bridging crux sequence, a long way above the pounding waves. 60m rope required.

25 Sport 35m Unlink route
28 ** Amnesia

If you forget about the last 3 bolts of Retrograde Amnesia you have amnesia but it does make for an awesome warm up 22 (the 4th & 5th last bolt has a single fixed bineer lower off.

22 Sport 25m, 10 Unlink route
29 *** Hit and Run
25 Sport 27m Unlink route
30 *** Captain Jack
30 Sport 20m Unlink route
32 *** Number One
26 Sport 25m Unlink route
31 *** Total Recall
27 Sport 35m Unlink route
33 * Man's Machine

A long and varied pitch up the right trending corner system that seperates the main overhanging portion of the Paradisio (on the left) from the more sympatheticaly angled wall (on the right). DBB.

21 Sport 32m, 10 Unlink route
34 Random People
24 Sport 15m Unlink route

Topo #2210

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Route Grade Popularity Style
35 * K2

Two pitch sport route. Starts at short right facing corner from sloping ledge. 1. 25m 21 2. 30m 21

21 Sport 55m Unlink route
40 *** Too Tall Oxen

A long pitch of overhanging climbing, starting at the left end of the wave platform seperating tha Paradiso proper from the Aquaphobia Wall. Long reaches between incut holds characterise this line, which has been known to shed the odd piece of rock. Popular warmup for the harder routes, or a greatpitch to work in its own right. DBB.

22 Sport 32m Unlink route
42 *** Ready, Steady, Go
26 Sport 18m Unlink route

Topo #7587

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Route Grade Popularity Style
43 ** Ilkley Roof
20 Trad 25m Unlink route
44 * Team Caffeine
24 Sport 20m Unlink route
45 * Show Time
26 Sport 25m Unlink route
46 *** Aquaphobia
22 Sport 25m Unlink route
47 Don't Ride The Wild Wave
22 Sport 25m Unlink route
48 * Deep Blue
25 Sport 20m Unlink route
49 * Carthage
18 Trad 28m Unlink route

Topo #7586

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Route Grade Popularity Style
50 Ad Parnassum
16 Trad 30m Unlink route
51 *** Deja Vu
28 Sport 35m Unlink route
52 ** Aide-memoire

A long pitch of vertical wall climbing at the far right of the Paradiso. Needs a low swell day for safe access to the start ledge. Straight up from ledge, then traverse right at the fourth bolt (as for De Ja Vue) on tiny crimps. From bolt five blast straight up. Can be done on a 60m rope with a bit of dodgyness..

24 Sport 33m, 14 Unlink route

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