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Description

A newly develop wall with similar rock to the paradiso. All climbs are off a massive level rock platform accessed from a rap in 3 pitch climb out.

Approach

Walk past the Mount Brown trig - head in the direction of Tasman Island, when you start seeing the cairns follow them down a rough but well cut trail. The track splits 20m from the cliff edge - left goes to No Contest, right goes to Psycho-Man.

Descent notes

The platform is big, but completely cut off by the sea, so either leave a fixed line or commit to some strong climbing to get home.

Routes

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Grade Route

Engaging, technical, good quality climbing in a wild location. Fully bolted.

  1. 15m 12 Start as for Psycho Man for 3 bolts, then head left across large ledge to DBB.

  2. 30m 23 Crux pitch. Clip bolt and downclimb from ledge to traverse left across the top of sea cave. Head up to roof, then left under this to ledge and single bolt belay (can back up with #1 camalot or first bolt of pitch 3).

  3. 20m 23 Hard start moving right into crack system, then follow this to next ledge.

  4. 20m 22 Follow line of bolts up slab, move left into corner system finishing at ledge.

  5. 20m 18 Step right and finish up the final pitch of Psycho Man

FA: Garry & Kim, 2016

The rap route and also the easiest way to escape the Hidden Face. A new wave classic and worth the walk just for the experience of the second pitch alone. Fully bolted.

  1. 35m 22 From single bolt belay, follow line of bolts up easy ground, finishing with a couple of big moves to big holds just below the anchor. DBB.

  2. 40m 21 Sustained, engaging climbing. Cross the slab bearing left into flake system, then up major corner. Move left around steep bulge to arete and up to DBB. Spaced bolts can be supplemented with small cams (BD 0.3, 0.4) and wires if desired.

  3. 20m 18 Follow corner with a couple of big moves to finish.

FA: Gerry & Gary, 2012

Excellent. Solo up corner to first bolt (can protect with #1 camalot), then a strenous sequence of laybacking with poor feet, followed by some big moves right to the last bolt.

Brilliant climbing. High first bolt, then follow the grove up the arête until an airy step to the left to make the flake. Must do.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2012

Up the centre of the main wall, starting about 8m to the left of a deep, dirty corner. First bolt is about 15m up the cliff. Pitches of 21 (50m, 14b), 24 (35m, 13b), 22 (35m, 11b) and 18 (20m, 9b).

The first pitch of No Contest makes an excellent single pitch outing

Amazing. Start in hand crack just right of main cliff, which trends left leading to a line of bolts. Technical and engaging corner climbing past 6 bolts, then into a finger crack (0.75 camalot), and past a final bolt to the top. Take BD cams 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, 3.

Another excellent route. Follow the obvious line of bolts up a series of flakes into a shallow corner, finishing with some fun moves to gain the 'wagon wheel' around the right hand side of the arete. Classic.

Just right of prominent overhang. Up seam to enjoyable climbing using pockets and flakes. Single bolt to rap off, or traverse to DBB anchor on Wagonwheel.

Enjoyable face climbing using pockets and large flakes.

Corner finger crack which heads left at the overhanging roof. Belay off double bolts.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz & Garry Phillips, 2012

Beautiful corner climbing with some really thoughtful moves required, if you have the stones to make it past the ledges. Needs medium cams to do semi-safely(0.4, 0.5, 0.75). A crux above the first ledge requires gear or you may as well be soloing.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2012

The prominent thin seam.

FFA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2013

FFA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2013

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