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Description

A newly develop wall with similar rock to the paradiso. All climbs are off a massive level rock platform accessed from a rap in 3 pitch climb out.

Approach

Walk past the Mount Brown trig - head in the direction of Tasman Island, when you start seeing the cairns follow them down a rough but well cut trail. The track splits 20m from the cliff edge - left goes to No Contest, right goes to Psycho-Man.

Descent notes

The platform is big, but completely cut off by the sea, so either leave a fixed line or commit to some strong climbing to get home.

Routes

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Grade Route

The rap route and also the easiest way to escape the Hidden Face.

A new wave classic and worth the walk just for the experience of the second pitch alone.

FA: Gerry & Gary, 2012

Brilliant climbing. High first bolt, then follow the grove up the arête until an airy step to the left to make the flake. Must do.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2012

Up the centre of the main wall, starting about 8m to the left of a deep, dirty corner. First bolt is about 15m up the cliff. Pitches of 21 (50m, 14b), 24 (35m, 13b), 22 (35m, 11b) and 18 (20m, 9b).

Just right of prominent overhang. Up seam to enjoyable climbing using pockets and flakes. Single bolt to rap off.

Enjoyable face climbing using pockets and large flakes.

Corner finger crack which heads left at the overhanging roof. Belay off double bolts.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz & Garry Phillips, 2012

Beautiful corner climbing with some really thoughtful moves required, if you have the stones to make it past the ledges. Needs medium cams to do semi-safely(0.4, 0.5, 0.75). A crux above the first ledge requires gear or you may as well be soloing.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2012

The prominent thin seam.

FFA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2013

FFA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2013

Activity

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