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Description

A newly develop wall with similar rock to the paradiso. All climbs are off a massive level rock platform accessed from a rap in 3 pitch climb out.

Approach

Walk past the Mount Brown trig - head in the direction of Tasman Island, when you start seeing the cairns follow them down a rough but well cut trail. The track splits 20m from the cliff edge - left goes to No Contest, right goes to Psycho-Man.

Descent notes

The platform is big, but completely cut off by the sea, so either leave a fixed line or commit to some strong climbing to get home.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
22 *** Psycho-Man Sport 95m, 3

The rap route and also the easiest way to escape the Hidden Face.

A new wave classic and worth the walk just for the experience of the second pitch alone.

FA: Gerry & Gary, 2012

2
10 * Sea Spray Trad 15m
3
20 * Seaweed Groove Sport 18m
4
19 ** Starfish Arete Sport 18m

Brilliant climbing. High first bolt, then follow the grove up the arête until an airy step to the left to make the flake. Must do.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2012

5
24 ** No Contest Sport 150m, 4, 47

Up the centre of the main wall, starting about 8m to the left of a deep, dirty corner. First bolt is about 15m up the cliff. Pitches of 21 (50m, 14b), 24 (35m, 13b), 22 (35m, 11b) and 18 (20m, 9b).

7
23 ** Wagon Wheel Express Sport 25m
8
19 ** Brown Love Sport 25m, 7

Just right of prominent overhang. Up seam to enjoyable climbing using pockets and flakes. Single bolt to rap off.

9
18 ** Mission Brown Sport 25m, 8

Enjoyable face climbing using pockets and large flakes.

10
20 *** Brown Eye Trad 25m

Corner finger crack which heads left at the overhanging roof. Belay off double bolts.

FA: anon & Garry Phillips, 2012

11
19 ** Bob Brown Mixed 25m, 6

Beautiful corner climbing with some really thoughtful moves required, if you have the stones to make it past the ledges. Needs medium cams to do semi-safely(0.4, 0.5, 0.75). A crux above the first ledge requires gear or you may as well be soloing.

FA: anon, 2012

12
25 Brown Sugar Sport 25m

The prominent thin seam.

FFA: anon, 2013

13
20 Chocolate Brownie Sport 25m

FFA: anon, 2013

Activity

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