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Mount Coree Mostly Sport climbing

69 routes in crag
  • Grades: AU
  • Approach time: 1-10 minutes (if you have a 4WD)
  • Photos: 6
  • Ascents: 660

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Summary

For those who want a break from granite, and to do some proper sport climbing to boot, Mount Coree offers a lot of fun, particularly with its nearby bakery/chalet. It's best to arrive early in the morning if you want to get the best croissants!

The rock type at Mount Coree is similar to what you would find at Kambah Rocks or Red Rocks, with hidden holds abounding on many of the routes, however it has better friction and is stronger to boot, with rock fall less likely.

Description

Mount Coree can be seen from Piccadilly Circus, a large rock tor looking out over valleys at a height of 1350-1400 metres above sea level. The mountain can get quite cold in winter and does see some snow, and best climbing is therefore in autumn and spring. However, don't listen to tales that summer days can be brutal and painful - with a bit of wind, the height of the cliffs contributes to between a 5 and 7 degree drop in temperature which can make things quite pleasant. That said, the cliff is the right colour to reflect a lot of heat and UV so be careful with your sunscreen.

Some routes have been rebolted with stainless, but the original bolts are galvanised steel and showing some rust. If you're feeling philanthropic, take some new stainless maillons or shackles to replace some of the more rusted lower-offs. Seems like someone has done this and most of the climbs are well bolted and protected.

Access issues

WARNING! Coree Summit Trail is closed off for ALL motor vehicles as of July 2016 due to massive road damage. In December 2016 (as of writing of this note) it was still closed. There are two huge boulders blocking the road just beyond the campground, so you need to leave the car there. The walk up is about 1.5 hours (2.6km uphill).

Approach

Head out to Brindabella Road via Uriarra Road or the Cotter towards Piccadilly Circus, where Brindabella Road crosses a saddle and intersects with with Two Sticks Road and Mount Franklin Road. At Piccadilly Circus, turn right onto Two Sticks Road and follow it for around 8km to pass a scree slope, uphill of which is Hollywood. Continue on then turn right onto the Mt Coree Summit Trail. The Coree Summit Trail becomes rocky after the first few corners. A 4WD is required. CURRENTLY CLOSED!

An alternative approach can be taken via Curries Road. Take the first right a couple hundred meters after the Brindabella Road turns to dirt, towards Blundells Flat. After a small concrete creek crossing, turn left and wind your way up the hill to join Two Stick Road 850m before Hollywood. Curries Road is slightly rough, a 4WD is recommended.

An even more direct approach can be made by continuing straight on after the Blundells Flat concrete creek crossing along Pabral road. Turn left when you reach the Mt Coree summit trail. Pabral Road is rough in spots - a 4WD is recommended.

Where to stay

If you feel like camping close-ish to the cliff, the Coree Campground is near the intersection of Pabral Road and the Coree summit trail. From there it's a 10 minute rocky drive (or 40 minute walk) to the cliff. More details: http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/camping-and-accommodation/campgrounds/Coree-campground/Visitor-Info/#Getting-there-and-parking

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History

View timeline of historical ascents

Mount Coree saw some climbing in 1958 by John Hammond, and a number of routes were put up which are now lost to history.

Between 1996-1999, George and Sarah Fieg, Nathan Wales, Chris Warner, Justin Ryan and Glen Jones put up the current routes.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Activity

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