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Summary

For those who want a break from granite, and to do some proper sport climbing to boot, Mount Coree offers a lot of fun, particularly with its nearby bakery/chalet. It's best to arrive early in the morning if you want to get the best croissants!

The rock type at Mount Coree is similar to what you would find at Kambah Rocks or Red Rocks, with hidden holds abounding on many of the routes, however it has better friction and is stronger to boot, with rock fall less likely.

Description

Mount Coree can be seen from Piccadilly Circus, a large rock tor looking out over valleys at a height of 1350-1400 metres above sea level. The mountain can get quite cold in winter and does see some snow, and best climbing is therefore in autumn and spring. However, don't listen to tales that summer days can be brutal and painful - with a bit of wind, the height of the cliffs contributes to between a 5 and 7 degree drop in temperature which can make things quite pleasant. That said, the cliff is the right colour to reflect a lot of heat and UV so be careful with your sunscreen.

There is some talk of rebolting but the current climbs are galvanised steel, and are showing some rust. If you're feeling philanthropic, take some new stainless maillons or shackles to replace some of the more rusted lower-offs.

Approach

Head out to Brindabella Road via Uriarra Road or the Cotter towards Piccadilly Circus, which is an intersection on a saddle with Two Sticks Road and Mount Franklin Road. At Piccadilly Circus, turn right onto Two Sticks Road and follow for around 8km to pass a scree slope, uphill of which is Hollywood. Continue onward further then turn right onto the Mt Coree Summit trail. This road, beyond the campsite, is in poor condition. A 4WD is required.

An alternative approach can be taken via Curries Road. Take the first right a couple hundred meters after the Brindabella Road turns to dirt, towards Blundells Flat. After a small creek crossing, turn left and wind your way up the hill to join Two Stick Road a few hundred meters before Hollywood. Curries Road is slightly rough, a 4WD is recommended.

An even more direct approach can be made via Pabral road, by continuing on straight after the Blundells Flat creek crossing to join the Mt Coree summit trail. Pabral Road is rough in spots, a 4WD is recommended.

History

Mount Coree saw some climbing in 1958 by John Hammond, and a number of routes were put up which are now lost to history.

Between 1996-1999, George and Sarah Fieg, Nathan Wales, Chris Warner, Justin Ryan and Glen Jones put up the current routes.

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
Wind Wall Sector
17
170
20m
1
3
43
16m
1
South Park Sector
8
2
20m
1
10
38
14m
1
Neo-Tokyo Sector
3
0
1
Sun Wall Sector
3
14
25m
1
The Lime Sector
4
2
15m
1

Open trips

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