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Mount Coree Mostly Sport climbing

75 routes in crag
  • Grades: AU
  • Approach time: 1-10 minutes (if you have a 4WD)
  • Photos: 8
  • Ascents: 780

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Summary

For those who want a break from granite, and to do some proper sport climbing to boot, Mount Coree offers a lot of fun, particularly with its nearby bakery/chalet. It's best to arrive early in the morning if you want to get the best croissants!

The rock type at Mount Coree is similar to what you would find at Kambah Rocks or Red Rocks, with hidden holds abounding on many of the routes, however it has better friction and is stronger to boot, with rock fall less likely.

Description

Mount Coree can be seen from Piccadilly Circus, a large rock tor looking out over valleys at a height of 1350-1400 metres above sea level. The mountain can get quite cold in winter and does see some snow, and best climbing is therefore in autumn and spring. However, don't listen to tales that summer days can be brutal and painful - with a bit of wind, the height of the cliffs contributes to between a 5 and 7 degree drop in temperature which can make things quite pleasant. That said, the cliff is the right colour to reflect a lot of heat and UV so be careful with your sunscreen.

Some routes have been rebolted with stainless, but the original bolts are galvanised steel and showing some rust. If you're feeling philanthropic, take some new stainless maillons or shackles to replace some of the more rusted lower-offs. Seems like someone has done this and most of the climbs are well bolted and protected.

Access issues

The Coree Summit Trail is currently open (as of late April 2017).

The ACT Parks and Conservation Service (PCS) and NSW Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) have identified the ongoing deterioration of Pabral Road and the inherent safety risks presented to users during wet conditions given the slippery clay-based nature of this road. This culminated in $50K worth of maintenance work in 2014/15 and in 2016/17 Pabral Rd was closed for approximately 6 months due to the prolonged wet period and associated road degradation and safety issues. As you would be aware, these trails are used by the public, but they are primarily maintained as fire trails during the fire season, and maintained to a standard to also minimise sediment channelling into the Lower Cotter Catchment and subsequently the Cotter Dam. With the above in mind, PCS and NPWS propose an annual seasonal closure of Pabral Rd between 1st June – 31st August via existing gates at the top and bottom of this road. Pabral Road will also be temporarily closed outside this period if deemed necessary due to safety or vehicular access causing unacceptable damage to the road surface. In most cases, the adjacent Curries Road will be open and offers an alternative route to Brindabella NP and Two Sticks Rd. In particularly wet periods, a gate will close access to both tracks. Alternative access during these periods will be by Two Sticks Rd (via Brindabella or Blue Range Rds).

Road closures will be signposted on site, and conveyed through Transport Canberra and City Services website - http://www.tccs.act.gov.au/roads-paths/act_public_road_closures or Access Canberra 12 22 81.

Approach

Head out to Brindabella Road via Uriarra Road or the Cotter towards Piccadilly Circus, where Brindabella Road crosses a saddle and intersects with with Two Sticks Road and Mount Franklin Road. At Piccadilly Circus, turn right onto Two Sticks Road and follow it for around 8km to pass a scree slope, uphill of which is Hollywood. Continue on then turn right onto the Mt Coree Summit Trail. The Coree Summit Trail becomes rocky after the first few corners. A 4WD is required. Otherwise, park at the bottom of the summit trail. The walk is a pleasant half hour up the road (2.6km uphill).

An alternative approach can be taken via Curries Road. Take the first right a couple hundred meters after the Brindabella Road turns to dirt, towards Blundells Flat. After a small concrete creek crossing, turn left and wind your way up the hill to join Two Stick Road 850m before Hollywood. Curries Road is slightly rough, a 4WD is recommended.

An even more direct approach can be made by continuing straight on after the Blundells Flat concrete creek crossing along Pabral road. Turn left when you reach the Mt Coree summit trail. Pabral Road is rough in spots - a 4WD is recommended.

Where to stay

If you feel like camping close-ish to the cliff, the Coree Campground is near the intersection of Pabral Road and the Coree summit trail. From there it's a 10 minute rocky drive (or 40 minute walk) to the cliff. More details: http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/camping-and-accommodation/campgrounds/Coree-campground/Visitor-Info/#Getting-there-and-parking

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History

View historical timeline

Mount Coree saw some climbing in 1958 by John Hammond, and a number of routes were put up which are now lost to history.

Between 1996-1999, George and Sarah Fieg, Nathan Wales, Chris Warner, Justin Ryan and Glen Jones put up the current routes.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Activity

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