Hollywood Mostly sport climbing

23 routes in crag

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Summary

Steep, hard and short.

Description

On the western slopes of Mt Coree just above Two Sticks Rd is this large boulder with some of the ACT's hardest routes. It is shadier than Coree's summit and because of the altitude quite a lot cooler than most Canberra crags. It is possible to boulder at the bottom of the climbs, though none of them are particularly tall in any case.

Approach

While driving towards Mount Coree on Two Sticks Road you will pass a scree slope. Park and walk up the scree for 30m to get to the cliff.

History

Few dates of first ascents have been recorded.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © ANU Moutaineering Club (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 * Leisuremaster Sport 8m

Steep jugs up the arete.

FA: Glenn Jones

2

A fun traverse.

FA: Glenn Jones

3
27 27 Sport

FA: George Fieg

4
29 Vicious Sport

FA: George Fieg

5
29 *** Get Ballistic Sport

Totally awesome. Overhangs 50 degrees. A heel/toe hook had snapped as of last updated, so possibly back to project status.

FA: George Fieg

6

Crimps to a dyno.

FA: George Fieg

7

FA: Sarah Fieg

8

Technical, steep and classy. Crux getting onto the wall.

FA: Sarah Fieg

9

Originally 23 but now 25 with the loss of a flake.

FA: Sarah Fieg

10
22 * Born to Fade Sport

Classic little warm up, harder now a hold has broken.

FA: Glenn Jones

11
21 Flat Head Sport

Start at The Crack and take the left arete.

FA: Sarah Fieg

12
22 The Crack Trad

Natural gear - very technical.

FA: John Smart, Mike Law-Smith, 1983

13

The most open handed of the 26's at Hollywood. Between The Crack and Weazels Ripped My Flesh.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2006

14

Dynamic.

FA: George Fieg

15

Very bouldery and dynamic.

FA: George Fieg

16
27 Nikita Sport

FA: P. Cuthbert

17

Slopey crux to excellent finish.

FA: George Fieg

18

Superb arete and roof.

FA: Glenn Jones

19
29 * 200 Motels Sport

Very sustained and pumpy until the last move. Was 31, but a new sequence was found.

FA: George Fieg

20
27 ** Ice Sport 5

One of the best.

FA: Sarah Fieg

21

Technical and thin. Start up Ice and traverse right to Chilled Eyeball(s).

FA: Sarah Fieg

22
20 Chilled Left Eyeball Sport 10m

A warm up on the left.

FA: Sarah Fieg

23

Warm up on the right, using the same bolts.

FA: Mike Peck

Open trips

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