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Access issues inherited from Mount Coree

WARNING! Coree Summit Trail is closed off for ALL motor vehicles as of July 2016 due to massive road damage. In December 2016 (as of writing of this note) it was still closed. There are two huge boulders blocking the road just beyond the campground, so you need to leave the car there. The walk up is about 1.5 hours (2.6km uphill).

Approach

Park at the last bend and either approach straight down a gully or via Wind Wall.

Option 1: head straight down the loose rock and drop down the little gully on the left (probably a grade 4 downscramble - either down the wide chimney or down a 3m blocky drop-off). This will put you in Pretty Gully, with Raining Pleasure on one wall and Shish.. on the other. For Pretty Backside, walk around the corner to the right (facing downhill).

Option 2: The safest way to access the area is from Wind Wall. Walk to the bottom of the wall, and continue downhill for 5-10m. Turn right and wind your way through the shrubs under the boulders and over a small slab. This will bring you to the base of Pretty Gully and then on to Pretty Backside.

Option 3: Park on the bend just before the gate (second to last left turn) and walk onto the edge of the cliff to stand on top of Pretty Backside. There are ring bolts about 5 meters beyond the small boulders on the top just as it starts going down. Lower off the first set of bolts. You may want to protect the access to the rings with sling around one of the boulders.

Descent notes

All routes have either single or double bolt chains. While the bolts are currently looking a little worse for wear, they still have some years left in them.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
15 * Climb A Sport 15m, 4

A nice line rising leftwards from the left gully.

FA: Rickard

2
15 * Climb B Sport 15m, 4

One metre left from Climb C ... still climbing toward the front of the blunt "backside"

FA: Rickard

3
15 * Climb C Sport 15m, 4

One metre left of School Girl Fantasies. Beautiful clean rock on this one.

FA: Rickard

4
15 * School Girl Fantasies Sport 15m, 4

A pleasant route, with the crux being a slightly blanker section then up through to fourth class territory before the chains. Bolts a bit rusted but still in good nick.

FA: Chris Warner

5
13 * King Cup No 1 Sport 15m, 4

A lovely little ramble, with the first bolt being in good position if you wish to start straight underneath it in the gully, or giving a good little runout if you start at the bottom of the cliff. Once you've passed the last bolt it's fourth class territory to the chains.

FA: Nathan Wales

6
15 * Brillo Pad Sport 15m, 4

Fairly easy lower down, the crux is to find the point in the overlap at which you step over onto the arete.

FA: Nathan Wales

7
18 ** Super Discount Sport 15m, 4

The crux of this route is just above the first bolt, after which the rest will feel quite easy! The hard moves through the roof are above the indicated grade; or you can use the fairly obvious overlap lower down and climb up the arete to get to the fourth bolt.

FA: Nathan Wales

8
17 8 Items or Less Sport 18m, 5

A rather odd climb - some quite easy moves up to the first bolt, which continue up to the second, before which the climber is within ground fall territory. Joins up with 'Super Discount' after the third bolt. Similar to Super Discount, if you choose to go through the roof, expect this to be quite hard for the grade. However the smarter move would seem to be trending left to get around the arete...

FA: Nathan Wales

9
17 * Femeture Definitive Sport 15m, 3

An interesting climb, with reasonable moves down low turning into a heinous crux just above the third bolt. One for the tall climbers, or shorter people willing to dyno.

FA: Nathan Wales

10
17 * Raining Pleasure Sport 12m, 5

FA: Nathan Wales

11
22 * Memory Relapse Sport 10m, 5

FA: Justin Ryan

12
24 * Shhh... Sport 4

FA: Chris Warner

13
Quintessence SportProject 5

Open project, right of 'Shish'.

14

Shares chains with 'Shish'.

FA: Chris Warner

Activity

Check out what is happening in Pretty Gully, Pretty Backside.