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Approach

Reddish buttress at the southern end of columns

© (jellyfish)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 * Drama Queen Sport 20m
2
19 ** Princess Sport 25m, 12

On the face to the right of drama queen

FA: R Parkyn, 2014

3
22 ** Nefarious Sport 25m
4
20 ** Slippery Sensation Trad 25m

Climb RH crack for 7 m, then move into LH crack and up to below a bush. Traverse L and onto arete to Nefarious anchor.

Start: Crack to the right of bolted arete (Nefarious 22)

FA: S Parsons, K Bischoff & A Wing, 1981

5
20 ** Slipper Trad 30m
6
21 * Ring of Fire Trad 15m
7

A serious but rewarding single pitch route up the wall to the left of the obvious chimney (Berts Fear). The first half of the route follows the line of least resistance up, trending leftwards, to the obvious large jug on the arete. The climbing on this section is sustained face climbing, with care needed to be taken with some loose rock to be avoided, and some devious gear placements to be found. Small wires very important. From the jug on the arete, the climbing is easier, following a series of short blockly corners up and trending back right to a ledge with two small trees and a cluster of fixed tat. From this tat, a single 60m rope will get you back to the deck (although your probably better of leading the route on double ropes).

8
22 ** Berts Butter Menthol Sport 30m

Contentious, original done as a trad route the unknowingly bolted a week later. Climbs the line left of the bolts, it is possible to go right of the bolt at the roof at grade 23.

Climb the wall left of Bert's Fear, starting at the base of the Bert's Fear chimney. There is thin crux at the second U and then a pumpy hike to the top (all sport).

FFA: Roger Parkyn & Owen Gervasoni, 2013

9
12 ** Bert's Fear Trad 120m

FA: U. Aurelli, D. Cox & J. Fairhall

10
20 ** Precarious Trad 40m
11
22 * Alex's Thing Mixed 40m, 6

Sporty route between CSTS and P. Can be done as a second pitch to P, or a single pitch starting as for CSTS and using the DBB for that route to descend. Bring a light rack for the start and the finish

FA: A Wilson, 2004

12
17 * Chop Sticks Trad 8m

Originally a short, bold, route connecting the Fiddlesicks ledge to the 1st belay of Precarious. A retro-bolt or two (as part of the logical arete line CSTS) have tamed the route, which is now normally done as part of AT or CSTS.

FA: H Jackson & M Jackson, 2000

13

Mostly sport route up the prominent arete left of Fiddlesticks. Start at the base of Fiddlesticks, and move left to arete (wire and small cam) to gain line of u-bolts. Balancy arete climbing on great rock. You'll probably place another wire & small cam up high before gaining a DBB.

FA: A Williams & D Grey, 2004

14
14 ** Fiddlesticks Trad 55m 2
15
25 *** Neon God Sport 50m 2

Pitch 1 - 22 Pitch 2 - 25 Best done as 1 pitch

16
23 ** The Holy Road Sport 25m
18
20 * The Cuts Trad 25m

This route now has a direct start and finishes called 'The Directors Cut' 21

19
21 * The Directors Cut Mixed 48m, 2
20
18 *** Digitalis Trad 62m 2

Start: Crack system to the L, around arete of Brown Madonna

  1. 26m (18) Crack to corner

  2. 36m (18) Crack to 1 m below bush, then traversee L to arete and up.

FFA: D Bowman & M. Steane

FA: J. Moore & R. Williams, 1977

21
24 *** After Midnight Sport 50m

Absolute classic. Up the arête to the left of Brown Madonna. Consistent, exposed, technical moves. Double ropes can reduce drag, but aren't mandatory.

22
27 ** Pleasant Screams Sport 55m 2

Pitch 1 - 25 Pitch 2 - 27 Best done as one pitch.

23
19 ** Brown Madonna Trad 50m
24
16 Pink Car Trad 50m
25
18 ** Great Bitch Trad 50m
26
25 *** The Tower Of Power Sport 60m, 19

The tall overhanging column to the right of Brown Madonna, 60m single pitch route, sustained arete climbing as good as it gets. Take a no.1 camalot for the tip section. 19 quickdraws plus rap chains

FA: nick hancock

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