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Approach

Reddish buttress at the southern end of columns

© (jellyfish)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
2
27 *** Pleasant Screams Sport 55m

Pitch 1 - 25 Pitch 2 - 27 Best done as one pitch.

3
24 *** After Midnight Sport 50m
4
18 *** Digitalis Trad 62m

Start: Crack system to the L, around arete of Brown Madonna

  1. 26m (18) Crack to corner

  2. 36m (18) Crack to 1 m below bush, then traversee L to arete and up.

FFA: D Bowman, M. Steane

FA: J. Moore, R. Williams, 1977

5
20 * The Cuts Trad 25m
7
25 *** Neon God Sport 50m

Pitch 1 - 22 Pitch 2 - 25 Best done as 1 pitch

8
23 * The Holy Road Sport 25m
9
14 *** Fiddlesticks Trad 110m
10
17 Chop Sticks Trad 8m

Originally a short, bold, route connecting the Fiddlesicks ledge to the 1st belay of Precarious. A retro-bolt or two (as part of the logical arete line CSTS) have tamed the route, which is now normally done as part of AT or CSTS.

FA: H Jackson, M Jackson, 2000

11

Mostly sport route up the prominent arete left of Fiddlesticks. Start at the base of Fiddlesticks, and move left to arete (wire and small cam) to gain line of u-bolts. Balancy arete climbing on great rock. You'll probably place another wire & small cam up high before gaining a DBB.

FA: A Williams, D Grey, 2004

12
22 * Alex's Thing Sport 30m

Sporty route between CSTS and P. Can be done as a second pitch to P, or a single pitch starting as for CSTS and using the DBB for that route to descend.

FA: A Wilson, 2004

13
20 ** Precarious Trad
14
12 * Bert's Fear Trad 120m

FA: U. Aurelli, D. Cox, J. Fairhall

15
24 *** Berts Butter Menthol Sport 30m
16
23 ** Train of Thought Sport 24m

Climb the wall left of Bert's Fear, starting at the base of the Bert's Fear chimney. There is thin crux at the second U and then a pumpy hike to the top (all sport). The bulge at about three-quarter height provides a second crux; it is passed slightly right of center (where the U is).

FFA: Roger Parkyn, Owen Gervasoni, 2013

17

A serious but rewarding single pitch route up the wall to the left of the obvious chimney (Berts Fear). The first half of the route follows the line of least resistance up, trending leftwards, to the obvious large jug on the arete. The climbing on this section is sustained face climbing, with care needed to be taken with some loose rock to be avoided, and some devious gear placements to be found. Small wires very important. From the jug on the arete, the climbing is easier, following a series of short blockly corners up and trending back right to a ledge with two small trees and a cluster of fixed tat. From this tat, a single 60m rope will get you back to the deck (although your probably better of leading the route on double ropes).

18
21 * Ring of Fire Trad 15m
19
20 ** Slippery Sensation Trad 25m

Climb RH crack for 7 m, then move into LH crack and up to below a bush. Traverse L and onto arete to Nefarious anchor.

Start: Crack to the right of bolted arete (Nefarious 22)

FA: S Parsons, K Bischoff, A Wing, 1981

20
20 ** Slipper Unknown 30m
21
22 * Nefarious Sport 25m
22
24 * Drama Queen Unknown 20m
23
16 Pink Car Trad 50m
24
18 Great Bitch Trad 50m