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Description

The most extensive buttress on the Pipes. The RH end of 'Central Buttress' is broken and scrubby (Pooch 'Gully', a vegetated trough that separates Flange and Central Buttress). The LH end of the 'Central Buttress' is steeper and cleaner providing routes of greater quality.

© (jellyfish)

Approach

Continue on the 'Organ Pipes' Track past the access track to 'Flange Buttress' for roughly another 50m, passing a large horizontal flat boulder before cutting up R. (GPS: E0519827 N5250667) This is usually marked by a small cairn.

© (jellyfish)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

A stellar route, made awkard by its access. Best to do a route (Battlecruiser etc) that abseils down the Linda Chimney (or just climb the chimney). Either way your heading to the large ledge 10m up and left from the Abseil point 25m up the chimney (at the chockstone). P1(10m 18) Step nervously down, left, and onto the south face. Your faith will be rewarded with good gear,and a flake leading to a large ledge. P2(30m 20). The crux arrives early up the hand crack, before more varied terrain is reached. Heaps of gear and great exposure make this a classic pitch.

FA: S. Parsons, D. Fife, Phil Steane, 1982

2
20 * Hyperspace Trad 35m

FA: N Deka, D Bruce, D Batten, 1988

3
22 ** Starship Trooper Trad 74m
4
20 *** Space Cowboy Trad
5
18 *** Battle Cruiser Trad 74m

Both pitches are awesome.

Start: Shares the same start as Twice.

  1. 28m (19) Climb the black streaked corner to the roof, continue through it via the LH line (crux) and up the thin crack to ledge belay L of the base of the Twice corner.

  2. 46m (18) Follow the corner of Twice for 6m to a steep diagonal flake system leading out L towards the arête. Layaway and bridge the airy flake system until it eases. Continue up R of the arête to reach U-bolt rap station. Rap down to huge Linda chock stone (50m) Another rap station accesses the LH end of 'Battle Cruiser' Ledge (25m).

FA: M. Law, D. Bowman., 1978

6
20 * Once Unknown 30m
7
15 * Faust Trad 120m

FA: J. Moore, R. Williams

10
18 *** Third Bird Trad 89m

Set by Ian Lewis, Lyle Closs, 1973

11
20 ** Butt Funky Trad 95m
12
18 High Flyers Trad 42m

Climbs up the hand crack directly above the bolts at the top of pitch 2 of Acid Test.

13
20 Acid Test Trad
14
21 ** Heat Sport 100m, 35

The line of bolts just right of Acid Test. There is about 15m of scrambling at the top of the third pitch to get to the start of the final pitch on the arete above.

15
23 ** Peregrine Sport 48m

The line of bolts 5m left of Rememberance and Roast Chicken

16
14 * Roast Chicken Trad 130m
17
21 ** Remembrance Sport 45m, 20

Well conceived line up a sharp arete. P1 15m (21). Steep climbing past 7 bolts to DBB. P2 30m (21). Up, then tricky move left to gain sharp arete. Focus, slapping, and footwork will see you at the DBB at the top of this excellent pitch. 13 bolts.

FA: D Humphries, J Nermut, 2012

18
22 Pugnacious Trad
19
20 ** Kacktus Trad 40m
20
18 Clowning Around Trad 60m
21
18 ** Centre Stage Trad 20m
22
18 * Circus Taz Trad 60m
  1. 26m

  2. 22m

  3. 12m

23
18 * Arthur's Circus Trad 55m
24
20 ** Line Tamer Unknown 50m
25
13 Starseeker Trad 100m