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Description

The most extensive buttress on the Pipes. The RH end of 'Central Buttress' is broken and scrubby (Pooch 'Gully', a vegetated trough that separates Flange and Central Buttress). The LH end of the 'Central Buttress' is steeper and cleaner providing routes of greater quality.

© (jellyfish)

Approach

Continue on the 'Organ Pipes' Track past the access track to 'Flange Buttress' for roughly another 50m, passing a large horizontal flat boulder before cutting up R. (GPS: E0519827 N5250667) This is usually marked by a small cairn.

© (jellyfish)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

A stellar route, made awkward by its access. Best to do a route (Battlecruiser etc) that abseils down the Linda Chimney (or just climb the chimney). Either way your heading to the large ledge 10m up and left from the Abseil point 25m up the chimney (at the chockstone).

  1. 10m 18 - Step nervously down, left, and onto the south face. Your faith will be rewarded with good gear,and a flake leading to a large ledge.

  2. 30m 20 - The crux arrives early up the hand crack, before more varied terrain is reached. Heaps of gear and great exposure make this a classic pitch.

FA: S. Parsons, D. Fife & Phil Steane, 1982

Pitch 1: Ground level to obvious large chockstone (rap anchors present) Pitch 2: Up chimney and belay at base of huge corner Pitch 3: 3 variants - Direct (18) - Left of huge corner which becomes offwidth Chimney (15): Climb R wall for 5m, thenstep R up to ledge and finish up chimney

FA: J Moore & J Veasey, 1968

FA: N Deka, D Bruce & D Batten, 1988

Both pitches are awesome.

Start: Shares the same start as Twice.

  1. 28m (19) Climb the black streaked corner to the roof, continue through it via the LH line (crux) and up the thin crack to ledge belay L of the base of the Twice corner.

  2. 46m (18) Follow the corner of Twice for 6m to a steep diagonal flake system leading out L towards the arête. Layaway and bridge the airy flake system until it eases. Continue up R of the arête to reach U-bolt rap station. Rap down to huge Linda chock stone (50m) Another rap station accesses the LH end of 'Battle Cruiser' Ledge (25m).

FA: M. Law & D. Bowman., 1978

FA: J. Moore & R. Williams

The line up the face and arête between Faust and Spartan Ethics. There is a thin and balancy crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and another tricky move at the roof, the rest is about 20.

FA: J. Nermut, D. Humphries & Jan 2015., 2015

Steep start then keep following the U's

FFA: Heather & Nick Hancock

FA: Roger, James Parkyn, Heather, Nick Hancock & May 2016., 2016

Sustained and consistent. An inverted small L-shaped roof/flake marks the start of this route.

  1. 30m Climb a shallow corner to the small roof at 5m, which is turned on the L. Ascend a series of walls up and R to a ledge.

  2. 35m Climb onto the block on the L and then up a thin crack to a small tree. Step back R and jam the crack to the top, belaying at some blocks near the Faust corner.

  3. 35m Continue up the line of shallow corners on the upper wall R of Faust to a small ledge. Head up and L over a bulge into a hanging corner and continue to the top. Descend by first climbing up the short rock step behind where the route finishes, and then heading L and down a vegetated ramp with some down climbing sections, circling around to the Battle Cruise rap station from above. If you find yourself bridging up a tree, you're on the wrong path.

FA: (1) S. Parsons, D. Bowman, Dec 1979. (2) D. Bowman, R. Wells, Feb 1978. (3) N. Deka, D. Stephenson & Apr 1988.

Up the corner from the natural belay bench. Beautiful, sustained, airy climbing with mostly good gear - keep an eye out for loose rocks and moss in cracks. Follow the crack to the first belay ledge, 5m below the split roof. Head through the roof and bulge above to an easier finish.

Sling rap off - bring 2m of tat in case you don't trust the existing stuff.

Set by Ian Lewis & Lyle Closs, 1973

Climbs up the hand crack directly above the bolts at the top of pitch 2 of Acid Test.

The line of bolts just right of Acid Test. There is about 15m of scrambling at the top of the third pitch to get to the start of the final pitch on the arete above.

The line of bolts 5m left of Rememberance and Roast Chicken

Well conceived line up a sharp arete.

  1. 15m (21). Steep climbing past 7 bolts to DBB.

  2. 30m (21). Up, then tricky move left to gain sharp arete. Focus, slapping, and footwork will see you at the DBB at the top of this excellent pitch. 13 bolts.

FA: D Humphries & J Nermut, 2012

MIxed route left of Kacktus. Climb loose chimney on natural gear until top of pinnacle is reached. Step onto the right wall and follow fully bolted wall to ledge and DBB. There is a short extention to a second DBB.

Up manky chimney then orange face Access left of Drama Queen and Princess on flange buttress

FA: D. Humphries & J. Nermut

  1. 26m

  2. 22m

  3. 12m

Below Battle Cruiser ledge. Bolted route slightly uphill left & around the corner from "The Three Stooges."

FA: J. Nermut & D. Humphries

Obvious bolted face below Battle Cruiser ledge, located up side track between Great Tier & Central Buttress access. Mantle near top & across some loose ground to rap station.

FA: T. McKenny, S. Scott & B. Bull

20m R of The Three Stooges up secondary track. Tricky start then up arete.

FA: M. Bailey, B. Bull, T. McKenny & D. Bruce

Activity

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