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Description

The most extensive buttress on the Pipes. The RH end of 'Central Buttress' is broken and scrubby (Pooch 'Gully', a vegetated trough that separates Flange and Central Buttress). The LH end of the 'Central Buttress' is steeper and cleaner providing routes of greater quality.

© (jellyfish)

Approach

Continue on the 'Organ Pipes' Track past the access track to 'Flange Buttress' for roughly another 50m, passing a large horizontal flat boulder before cutting up R. (GPS: E0519827 N5250667) This is usually marked by a small cairn.

© (jellyfish)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 *** Improbability Drive Trad 40m, 2

A stellar route, made awkward by its access. Best to do a route (Battlecruiser etc) that abseils down the Linda Chimney (or just climb the chimney). Either way your heading to the large ledge 10m up and left from the Abseil point 25m up the chimney (at the chockstone).

  1. 10m 18 - Step nervously down, left, and onto the south face. Your faith will be rewarded with good gear,and a flake leading to a large ledge.

  2. 30m 20 - The crux arrives early up the hand crack, before more varied terrain is reached. Heaps of gear and great exposure make this a classic pitch.

FA: S. Parsons, D. Fife & Phil Steane, 1982

2
15 Linda Trad 90m, 3

Pitch 1: Ground level to obvious large chockstone (rap anchors present) Pitch 2: Up chimney and belay at base of huge corner Pitch 3: 3 variants - Direct (18) - Left of huge corner which becomes offwidth Chimney (15): Climb R wall for 5m, thenstep R up to ledge and finish up chimney

FA: J Moore & J Veasey, 1968

3
20 * Hyperspace Trad 35m

FA: N Deka, D Bruce & D Batten, 1988

4
22 ** Starship Trooper Trad 74m, 2
5
20 *** Space Cowboy Trad
6
18 *** Battle Cruiser Trad 74m, 2

Both pitches are awesome.

Start: Shares the same start as Twice.

  1. 28m (19) Climb the black streaked corner to the roof, continue through it via the LH line (crux) and up the thin crack to ledge belay L of the base of the Twice corner.

  2. 46m (18) Follow the corner of Twice for 6m to a steep diagonal flake system leading out L towards the arête. Layaway and bridge the airy flake system until it eases. Continue up R of the arête to reach U-bolt rap station. Rap down to huge Linda chock stone (50m) Another rap station accesses the LH end of 'Battle Cruiser' Ledge (25m).

FA: M. Law & D. Bowman., 1978

7
20 * Once Trad 30m
8
15 ** Faust Trad 120m

FA: J. Moore & R. Williams

11
18 *** Third Bird Trad 89m, 2

Up the corner from the natural belay bench. Beautiful, sustained, airy climbing with mostly good gear - keep an eye out for loose rocks and moss in cracks. Follow the crack to the first belay ledge, 5m below the split roof. Head through the roof and bulge above to an easier finish.

Sling rap off - bring 2m of tat in case you don't trust the existing stuff.

Set by Ian Lewis & Lyle Closs, 1973

12
20 *** Butt Funky Trad 95m, 2
13
18 High Flyers Trad 42m

Climbs up the hand crack directly above the bolts at the top of pitch 2 of Acid Test.

14
20 ** Acid Test Trad 110m
15
21 ** Heat Sport 100m, 4, 35

The line of bolts just right of Acid Test. There is about 15m of scrambling at the top of the third pitch to get to the start of the final pitch on the arete above.

16
23 *** Peregrine Sport 48m, 2

The line of bolts 5m left of Rememberance and Roast Chicken

17
14 * Roast Chicken Trad 130m
18
21 ** Remembrance Sport 45m, 2, 20

Well conceived line up a sharp arete.

  1. 15m (21). Steep climbing past 7 bolts to DBB.

  2. 30m (21). Up, then tricky move left to gain sharp arete. Focus, slapping, and footwork will see you at the DBB at the top of this excellent pitch. 13 bolts.

FA: D Humphries & J Nermut, 2012

19
22 Pugnacious Trad
20
23 * Oopsy Daisy Mixed 40m, 9

MIxed route left of Kacktus. Climb loose chimney on natural gear until top of pinnacle is reached. Step onto the right wall and follow fully bolted wall to ledge and DBB. There is a short extention to a second DBB.

21
20 ** Kacktus Trad 40m
22
20 ** Alpine Style Sport 22m, 8

Up the orange face around to the R & up the gully from Kacktus.

FA: D. Humphries & J. Nermut

23
18 Clowning Around Trad 60m
24
18 ** Centre Stage Trad 20m
25
18 ** Circus Taz Trad 60m, 3
  1. 26m

  2. 22m

  3. 12m

26
18 ** Arthur's Circus Trad 55m
27
20 ** Line Tamer Trad 50m
28
13 Starseeker Trad 100m
29
18 ** Bad Back Sport 12m, 5

Below Battle Cruiser ledge. Bolted route slightly uphill left & around the corner from "The Three Stooges."

FA: J. Nermut & D. Humphries

30
18 * The Three Stooges Sport 20m, 7

Obvious bolted face below Battle Cruiser ledge, located up side track between Great Tier & Central Buttress access. Mantle near top & across some loose ground to rap station.

FA: T. McKenny, S. Scott & B. Bull

31
18 * Living the Dream Sport 12m, 4

20m R of The Three Stooges up secondary track. Tricky start then up arete.

FA: M. Bailey, B. Bull, T. McKenny & D. Bruce

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