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A less vegetated variant for Melancholy Mania. Takes the rib if rock to the L of the second pitch of Melancholy Mania. Scramble around from Suicide Sadness to avoid the first pitch of the above climb and belay at the base of the chimney. Climb up cracks and shallow corner past rooflet and blocky sections up the belay for Melancholy Mania.

Routes in the Suicide Sadness area start at the left hand end of the ramp immediately beyond the big step midway along the ramp.

FA: J Moore & P Stranger, 1968

Black streaked buttress, up and left from Slow Combustion. Awesomly sustained and balancy face climbing, to a DBB. Well protected if you have doubles of micro cams.

FA: V. Kennedy & J. Moore, 1968

Climbs pillar between Clouds of Obsession & Slow Combustion. Excellent climbing, let down somewhat by a hard first 5m, and scrubby last 5m. Good protection. At top of pillar, traverse 4m to rap of Clouds of Obsession chain (25m).

FFA: I. Snape & T. McKenny

FA: Pitches 1, 2: T. McKenny, A. Beech. Pitch 3: I. Snape & T. McKenny, Dec 2011

Routes in the Blue Meridian area start right of the big step midway along the ramp

Three pitch sport route starting 10m up the ramp from BM.

  1. 20 - bouldery start which eases off to grade 18/19 climbing to DBB.

  2. 21 - Up turrent, then delicatly back left passing 7 bolts to DBB.

  3. 21/22 - Up black streak left of the belay, passing 9 bolts, to another DBB.

FA: J Nermut & D Humphries, Jan 2012

FA: D. Fife & P. Mackenzie, 1983

1 17 45m
2 17 45m

A must do if you are in this area of the Pipes. Trad with DBB anchor stations at the top of both pitches.

Climbs a pillar located about 10m right of where the access path to Blue Meridian turns steeply left. Fully bolted, however a finger sized cam may help add confidence for the slopey top-out.

Take the signposted track up to Great Tier; where the track meets the cliff take the left fork that is signposted to Step Tier

About 20m left of Kabling is a short inset wall.

  1. 7m 14 - Climb centre of wall to belay on good ledge.

  2. 33m 20 - A bold and testing pitch weaving up the weaknesses on the buttress above the right side of the ledge. Climb right side of buttress to traverse line. Move left to rooflet, then powerfully up to welcome rest. Follow the line up the left arete to the big roof, then move spectacularly right to ledge below final corner. Belay at tree at base of Janzoon.

FA: T McKenny & P Robinson, Apr 2013

Precarious and pumpy climbing. As for Skyfall to its leftward traverse. Instead, blast up the seam and through the large roof to the ledge. Up the final Skyfall corner for a metre or two then balance onto the left arete and up to a DBB.

FA: O Gervasoni & T McKenny, May 2013

3m left of Kabling is a right facing corner. Up this then slightly left to top of yellow fin. Fiddle in some gear and climb the short crux wall, to a belay on the main ramp.

FA: T Mckenny, A Beech & O Gervasoni

FFA: Apr 2013

On the lower tier, 15m left of where the track meets the tier, is a compact black streaked wall leading to a featured roof. Excellent face climbing past a FH to a ledge. Up corner above before moving right and through the big roof, then the face and arete above to DBB. Scramble a further 10m to the base of G Pillar. Micro cams important.

FA: O. Gervasoni & B. Ikin, 31 Mar 2012

FA: T. McKenny, B. Bull, T. McKenny & B. Bull, Feb 2017

FA: B. Bull, T. McKenny, B. Maddison & S. Scott, Feb 2017


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