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16 ** Melancholy Mania Trad 100m, 3
17 * Manic Melancholy Trad 50m

A less vegetated variant for Melancholy Mania. Takes the rib if rock to the L of the second pitch of Melancholy Mania. Scramble around from Suicide Sadness to avoid the first pitch of the above climb and belay at the base of the chimney. Climb up cracks and shallow corner past rooflet and blocky sections up the belay for Melancholy Mania.

20 ** Tsing Gai Trad 65m
17 ** Janzoon Trad 130m
21 * Massacre Madness Trad 40m
18 *** Suicide Sadness Trad 80m
25 * Terror Firmer Trad 20m
15 ** Nefertiti Trad 77m, 2

FA: J Moore & P Stranger, 1968


Black streaked buttress, up and left from Slow Combustion. Awesomly sustained and balancy face climbing, to a DBB. Well protected if you have doubles of micro cams.

13 Passiona Trad 66m, 2

FA: V. Kennedy & J. Moore, 1968

15 * G Pillar Trad 30m

Climbs pillar between Clouds of Obsession & Slow Combustion. Excellent climbing, let down somewhat by a hard first 5m, and scrubby last 5m. Good protection. At top of pillar, traverse 4m to rap of Clouds of Obsession chain (25m).

15 * Slow Combustion Trad 52m, 2
18 * Twist in My Sobriety Trad 50m, 3

FFA: I. Snape & T. McKenny

FA: Pitches 1, 2: T. McKenny, A. Beech. Pitch 3: I. Snape & T. McKenny, 2011

14 Doldrums Trad 120m, 4
21 * Schizophrenic Sport 70m, 3, 24

Three pitch sport route starting 10m up the ramp from BM.

  1. 20 - bouldery start which eases off to grade 18/19 climbing to DBB.

  2. 21 - Up turrent, then delicatly back left passing 7 bolts to DBB.

  3. 21/22 - Up black streak left of the belay, passing 9 bolts, to another DBB.

FA: J Nermut & D Humphries, 2012

15 ** Roaring Forties Trad 80m
15 Feeble Fifties Trad 120m, 4
18 Shaky Flakes Trad 10m

FA: D. Fife & P. Mackenzie, 1983

17 *** Blue Meridian Trad 90m, 2

A must do if you are in this area of the Pipes. Trad with DBB anchor stations at the top of both pitches.

21 * Slime Time Trad 90m, 2
21 * Shrapnel Sport 25m, 9

Climbs a pillar located about 10m right of where the access path to Blue Meridian turns steeply left. Fully bolted, however a finger sized cam may help add confidence for the slopey top-out.

20 ** Skyfall Trad 40m, 2

About 20m left of Kabling is a short inset wall.

  1. 7m 14 - Climb centre of wall to belay on good ledge.

  2. 33m 20 - A bold and testing pitch weaving up the weaknesses on the buttress above the right side of the ledge. Climb right side of buttress to traverse line. Move left to rooflet, then powerfully up to welcome rest. Follow the line up the left arete to the big roof, then move spectacularly right to ledge below final corner. Belay at tree at base of Janzoon.

FA: T McKenny & P Robinson, 2013

22 * Quantum of Solace Mixed 32m, 4

Precarious and pumpy climbing. As for Skyfall to its leftward traverse. Instead, blast up the seam and through the large roof to the ledge. Up the final Skyfall corner for a metre or two then balance onto the left arete and up to a DBB.

FA: O Gervasoni & T McKenny, 2013

17 Procrastination Trad 35m

3m left of Kabling is a right facing corner. Up this then slightly left to top of yellow fin. Fiddle in some gear and climb the short crux wall, to a belay on the main ramp.

FA: T Mckenny, A Beech & O Gervasoni

FFA: 2013

17 ** Kabling Mixed 25m, 1

On the lower tier, 15m left of where the track meets the tier, is a compact black streaked wall leading to a featured roof. Excellent face climbing past a FH to a ledge. Up corner above before moving right and through the big roof, then the face and arete above to DBB. Scramble a further 10m to the base of G Pillar. Micro cams important.

FA: O. Gervasoni & B. Ikin, 2012


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