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Table of contents

1. Avalanche Couloir Area 29 routes in Area

Trad, Sport and Top Rope

1.1. Bulging Buttress 18 routes in Area

Mostly Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Wizard 18Trad 80m
2 Cold Power 21Trad 30m
3 *** Heat Pump

The second pitch is a Pipes classic. Steep, featured, and pumpy.

  1. 15m 18. Follow U bolts to large sloping ledge and DBB. Likely a sandbag at 18, but interesting and well bolted.

  2. 15m 22. The main attraction. Follow the black streak and gently overhanging arete. Pumpy, safe, and technically interesting.

There is a lower-off at the top of the 2nd pitch. With a 60m rope and care, the belayer can lower the climber to the ground, then abseil to the groud using the climber as a counterweight.

22Sport 30m
4 Warm Glow 21Sport 30m
5 ** Lignum Vitae 14Trad 100m
6 *** Black Magic

FA: Kim Carrigan, Ian Lewis, 1975

18Trad 55m
7 Magic Mushroom Variants 17Trad 50m
8 * Malignant Mushroom 19Trad 50m
9 ** Equipoise 22Mixed 30m, 1
10 Eye for a Line 16Trad 34m
11 Jelly Roll 17Trad 35m
12 Smoke and Mirrors 19Trad 35m
13 Crucio 17Trad 30m
14 Seriously Searching For Sanity and Suiciding Instead (S.S.S.S.I.) 22Trad
15 Breakneck 14Trad
16 Beaten and Abused 22Trad
17 *** Mildly Amused 25Trad 35m
18 * Breaker Spur 13Trad 100m

1.2. Avalanche Couloir 6 routes in Area

Trad and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kwang Hwa Lantern 27Sport 20m
2 * Torre 25Sport 8m
3 * Falstaff 19Trad 25m
4 Clench your fist and think of England 20Trad 18m
5 Sphygmus 18Trad 18m
6 ** Terra Nullis

Bolted arete up and right from Cape Diem. DBB.

21Sport 30m, 9

1.3. University Buttress 5 routes in Area

Trad and Top Rope
Approach:© (jellyfish)

Avalanche Couloir is the prominent gully that separates Bulging and University Buttresses

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Ozymandias 15Trad 65m
2 Blank Generation 22Trad
3 Rebel Without Claws 24Top rope 25m
4 *** Chancellor Direct

Start: Starts at the clean RH facing corner near the foot of Avalanche Couloir

  1. 35m (17) Up the corner and face to the overhang. Pass this on the L and continue up the line to a ledge at the base of a detached pillar

  2. 25m (16) Climb up behind the pillar, then up the crack above. At the top traverse R to the abseil anchors at the top of Carpe Diem

FA: I. Lewis, L. Closs, 1972

17Trad 60m
5 *** Carpe Diem

Brilliant face climbing. A double set of small/medium wires very useful. About 10m right of CD is a recessed column. Scramble up to the base with care. Up, till you can step right onto the column proper. Follow shallow r facing corner till the gear fizzles out, then reach righ to gain hidden flake. Follow this up to gain top of column. There is a DBB a few metres up and left.

19Trad 45m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
13 * Breaker Spur Trad 100m 1.1. Bulging Buttress
14 Breakneck Trad 1.1. Bulging Buttress
** Lignum Vitae Trad 100m 1.1. Bulging Buttress
15 * Ozymandias Trad 65m 1.3. University Buttress
16 Eye for a Line Trad 34m 1.1. Bulging Buttress
17 Crucio Trad 30m 1.1. Bulging Buttress
Jelly Roll Trad 35m 1.1. Bulging Buttress
Magic Mushroom Variants Trad 50m 1.1. Bulging Buttress
*** Chancellor Direct Trad 60m 1.3. University Buttress
18 *** Black Magic Trad 55m 1.1. Bulging Buttress
** The Wizard Trad 80m 1.1. Bulging Buttress
Sphygmus Trad 18m 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
19 * Malignant Mushroom Trad 50m 1.1. Bulging Buttress
Smoke and Mirrors Trad 35m 1.1. Bulging Buttress
* Falstaff Trad 25m 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
*** Carpe Diem Trad 45m 1.3. University Buttress
20 Clench your fist and think of England Trad 18m 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
21 Cold Power Trad 30m 1.1. Bulging Buttress
Warm Glow Sport 30m 1.1. Bulging Buttress
** Terra Nullis Sport 30m, 9 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
22 Beaten and Abused Trad 1.1. Bulging Buttress
** Equipoise Mixed 30m, 1 1.1. Bulging Buttress
*** Heat Pump Sport 30m 1.1. Bulging Buttress
Seriously Searching For Sanity and Suiciding Instead (S.S.S.S.I.) Trad 1.1. Bulging Buttress
Blank Generation Trad 1.3. University Buttress
24 Rebel Without Claws Top rope 25m 1.3. University Buttress
25 *** Mildly Amused Trad 35m 1.1. Bulging Buttress
* Torre Sport 8m 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
27 Kwang Hwa Lantern Sport 20m 1.2. Avalanche Couloir