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Table of contents

1. Avalanche Couloir Area 39 routes in Area

Trad, Sport and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 147.240728, -42.897861

1.1. University Buttress 9 routes in Area

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 147.240477, -42.898201

Approach:© (jellyfish)

Avalanche Couloir is the prominent gully that separates Bulging and University Buttresses

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Pete's Power Plummet 19 Trad 70m 3
2 * Cleavage

Cracks left of the Triclinicity corner, to DBB.

18 Trad 20m
3 Triclinicity 18 Trad 20m
4 * Ozymandias 15 Trad 65m
5 * Blind Vision

FA: R Parkyn, 2015

22 Trad 47m 2
6 *** Blank Generation 22 Trad 60m 2
7 Rebel Without Claws 24 Top rope 25m
8 *** Chancellor Direct

Start: Starts at the clean RH facing corner near the foot of Avalanche Couloir

  1. 35m (17) Up the corner and face to the overhang. Pass this on the L and continue up the line to a ledge at the base of a detached pillar

  2. 25m (16) Climb up behind the pillar, then up the crack above. At the top traverse R to the abseil anchors at the top of Carpe Diem

FA: I. Lewis, L. Closs, 1972

17 Trad 60m 2
9 *** Carpe Diem

Brilliant face climbing. A double set of small/medium wires very useful. About 10m right of CD is a recessed column. Scramble up to the base with care. Up, till you can step right onto the column proper. Follow shallow r facing corner till the gear fizzles out, then reach righ to gain hidden flake. Follow this up to gain top of column. There is a DBB a few metres up and left.

19 Trad 45m

1.2. Avalanche Couloir 11 routes in Area

Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kwang Hwa Lantern 27 Sport 20m
2 * Torre 25 Sport 8m
3 * Falstaff 19 Trad 25m
4 Clench your fist and think of England 20 Trad 18m
5 Sphygmus 18 Trad 18m
6 ** Terra Nullis

Bolted arete up and right from Cape Diem. DBB.

21 Sport 30m, 9
7 Aperitif

Starts directly from the track between Bulging Buttress and University Buttress. Climb right side of arete on flakes and horizontals.

17 Trad 30m
8 * Catch the Sun in Flight

Wall climbing immediatly left of Sun Stealer.

FA: 2015

16 Sport 12m, 4
9 * Sun Stealer

Up black streak immediatly left of The Dark Half. Shares last bolt and DBB with that route.

19 Sport 14m, 6
10 19 Shades of Grey

Located on small buttress next to track between Bulging Buttress and University Buttress, at the base of Avalanche Couloir. Climb the right side of short black streaked wall to DBB. Take care clipping high first bolt.

19 Sport 15m, 5
11 * Sparkle

2m R of '19 Shades of Grey.' Through the roofs.

FA: T. McKenny,O. Gervasoni,D. Stephenson

19 Sport 10m, 5

1.3. Bulging Buttress 19 routes in Area

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 147.241402, -42.897836

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Wizard 18 Trad 80m 2
2 Cold Power 21 Trad 30m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 *** Heat Pump

The second pitch is a Pipes classic. Steep, featured, and pumpy.

  1. 15m 18. Follow U bolts to large sloping ledge and DBB. Likely a sandbag at 18, but interesting and well bolted.

  2. 15m 22. The main attraction. Follow the black streak and gently overhanging arete. Pumpy, safe, and technically interesting.

There is a lower-off at the top of the 2nd pitch. With a 60m rope and care, the belayer can lower the climber to the ground, then abseil to the groud using the climber as a counterweight.

22 Sport 30m
4 Warm Glow 21 Sport 30m
5 ** Lignum Vitae 14 Trad 100m
6 *** Black Magic

FA: Kim Carrigan, Ian Lewis, 1975

18 Trad 55m
7 Magic Mushroom Variants 17 Trad 50m
8 * Malignant Mushroom 19 Trad 50m
9 ** Equipoise 22 Mixed 30m, 1
10 Eye for a Line 16 Trad 34m
11 Jelly Roll 17 Trad 35m
12 Smoke and Mirrors 19 Trad 35m
13 Crucio 17 Trad 30m
14 Seriously Searching For Sanity and Suiciding Instead (S.S.S.S.I.) 22 Trad 40m
15 Breakneck 14 Trad
16 Beaten and Abused 22 Trad 40m
17 *** Mildly Amused 25 Trad 35m
18 * Indian Summer
  1. A roaming line starting up face reaching between horizontal breaks to small roof. Traverse R under roof and up to small ledge.

  2. Up broken corner crack to top of initial column, head up and R to bolt belay. (combining first two pitches is definitely possible)

  3. Diagonally L to another bolted belay and rap station.

FA: T. McKenny & P. Robinson, 2013

16 Trad 49m 3
19 * Breaker Spur 13 Trad 100m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
13 * Breaker Spur Trad 100m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
14 Breakneck Trad 1.3. Bulging Buttress
** Lignum Vitae Trad 100m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
15 * Ozymandias Trad 65m 1.1. University Buttress
16 * Catch the Sun in Flight Sport 12m, 4 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
Eye for a Line Trad 34m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
* Indian Summer Trad 49m 3 1.3. Bulging Buttress
17 *** Chancellor Direct Trad 60m 2 1.1. University Buttress
Aperitif Trad 30m 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
Crucio Trad 30m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
Jelly Roll Trad 35m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
Magic Mushroom Variants Trad 50m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
18 * Cleavage Trad 20m 1.1. University Buttress
Triclinicity Trad 20m 1.1. University Buttress
Sphygmus Trad 18m 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
*** Black Magic Trad 55m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
** The Wizard Trad 80m 2 1.3. Bulging Buttress
19 *** Carpe Diem Trad 45m 1.1. University Buttress
* Pete's Power Plummet Trad 70m 3 1.1. University Buttress
19 Shades of Grey Sport 15m, 5 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
* Falstaff Trad 25m 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
* Sparkle Sport 10m, 5 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
* Sun Stealer Sport 14m, 6 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
* Malignant Mushroom Trad 50m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
Smoke and Mirrors Trad 35m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
20 Clench your fist and think of England Trad 18m 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
21 ** Terra Nullis Sport 30m, 9 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
Cold Power Trad 30m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
Warm Glow Sport 30m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
22 *** Blank Generation Trad 60m 2 1.1. University Buttress
* Blind Vision Trad 47m 2 1.1. University Buttress
Beaten and Abused Trad 40m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
** Equipoise Mixed 30m, 1 1.3. Bulging Buttress
*** Heat Pump Sport 30m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
Seriously Searching For Sanity and Suiciding Instead (S.S.S.S.I.) Trad 40m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
24 Rebel Without Claws Top rope 25m 1.1. University Buttress
25 * Torre Sport 8m 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
*** Mildly Amused Trad 35m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
27 Kwang Hwa Lantern Sport 20m 1.2. Avalanche Couloir