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Table of contents

1. Avalanche Couloir Area 52 routes in Area

Trad, Sport and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 147.240728, -42.897861

1.1. University Buttress 12 routes in Area

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 147.240477, -42.898201

Approach:© (jellyfish)

Avalanche Couloir is the prominent gully that separates Bulging and University Buttresses

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Two Angry Young Men 21 Trad 50m 2
2 Sisyphus 16 Trad 55m 2
3 * Pete's Power Plummet 19 Trad 70m 3
4 * Cleavage

Cracks left of the Triclinicity corner, to DBB.

18 Trad 20m
5 Triclinicity 18 Trad 20m
6 * Wide Boy

FA: R. Parkyn,O. Gervasoni,, 2015

23 Trad 24m
7 * Ozymandias 15 Trad 65m
8 * Blind Vision

FA: R Parkyn, 2015

22 Trad 47m 2
9 *** Blank Generation 22 Trad 60m 2
10 Rebel Without Claws 24 Top rope 25m
11 *** Chancellor Direct

Start: Starts at the clean RH facing corner near the foot of Avalanche Couloir

  1. 35m (17) Up the corner and face to the overhang. Pass this on the L and continue up the line to a ledge at the base of a detached pillar

  2. 25m (16) Climb up behind the pillar, then up the crack above. At the top traverse R to the abseil anchors at the top of Carpe Diem

FA: I. Lewis, L. Closs, 1972

17 Trad 60m 2
12 *** Carpe Diem

Brilliant face climbing. A double set of small/medium wires very useful. About 10m right of CD is a recessed column. Scramble up to the base with care. Up, till you can step right onto the column proper. Follow shallow r facing corner till the gear fizzles out, then reach righ to gain hidden flake. Follow this up to gain top of column. There is a DBB a few metres up and left.

19 Trad 45m

1.2. Avalanche Couloir 11 routes in Area

Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kwang Hwa Lantern 27 Sport 20m
2 * Torre 25 Sport 8m
3 * Falstaff 19 Trad 25m
4 Clench your fist and think of England 20 Trad 18m
5 Sphygmus 18 Trad 18m
6 ** Terra Nullis

Bolted arete up and right from Cape Diem. DBB.

21 Sport 30m, 9

Aperitif Buttress

This small buttress is in between University Buttress and Avalanche Gully, right next to the main path.

7 Aperitif

Starts directly from the track between Bulging Buttress and University Buttress. Climb right side of arete on flakes and horizontals.

17 Trad 30m
8 Catch the Sun in Flight

Wall climbing immediatly left of Sun Stealer.

FA: 2015

16 Sport 12m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 Sun Stealer

Up black streak immediatly left of The Dark Half. Shares last bolt and DBB with that route.

19 Sport 14m, 6
10 * 19 Shades of Grey

Located on small buttress next to track between Bulging Buttress and University Buttress, at the base of Avalanche Couloir. Climb the right side of short black streaked wall to DBB. Take care clipping high first bolt.

19 Sport 15m, 5
11 * Sparkle

2m R of '19 Shades of Grey.' Through the roofs.

FA: T. McKenny,O. Gervasoni,D. Stephenson

19 Sport 10m, 5

1.3. Bulging Buttress 29 routes in Area

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 147.241402, -42.897836

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents


Access to this face requires climbing 50m up Avalanche Couloir and scrambling back R to the base of the wall

1 *** (S.S.S.S.I.) Seriously Searching for Sanity but Suiciding Instead 22 Trad 40m
2 *** Mildly Amused 25 Trad 35m
3 *** Beaten and Abused 22 Trad 40m
4 ** Crazed and Confused

FA: N. Deka,D. Stephenson, Feb 1989, 1989

22 Trad 40m

Black Magic Area

5 ** Whatever

Starts at the highest point of the gully, climbing to the base of the climb is a bit precarious. Face climbing to the roof, then great technical climbing up the arete using oddly angled flakes.

FA: Roger Parkyn, 2015

FFA: @cee, 2015

22 Sport 20m
6 ** The Wizard 18 Trad 80m 2
7 *** Cold Power 21 Trad 30m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 *** Heat Pump

The second pitch is a Pipes classic. Steep, featured, and pumpy.

  1. 15m 18. Follow U bolts to large sloping ledge and DBB. Likely a sandbag at 18, but interesting and well bolted.

  2. 15m 22. The main attraction. Follow the black streak and gently overhanging arete. Pumpy, safe, and technically interesting.

There is a lower-off at the top of the 2nd pitch. With a 60m rope and care, the belayer can lower the climber to the ground, then abseil to the groud using the climber as a counterweight.

22 Sport 30m
9 * Warm Glow 21 Sport 30m
10 ** Lignum Vitae 14 Trad 100m
11 *** Black Magic

Clamber up the rocks to a lightly overhanging finger crack. Follow this up and over several spears of rock, When you reach the second (larger) platform, head to the crack on the left. Be sure to check around the corner to the right so you don't miss the rap bolts. If you reach a platform behind the large boulder you've already passed them.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Ian Lewis, 1975

18 Trad 55m
12 Magic Mushroom Variants 17 Trad 50m
13 * Malignant Mushroom 19 Trad 50m
14 ** Equipoise 22 Mixed 30m, 1
15 ** Isonomy

FA: A. Donoghue, H. Jackson, 2014

24 Trad 30m

Jelly Wall

16 Eye for a Line 16 Trad 34m
17 Jelly Roll

Cracked face just to the right of the prow, 2m left of the tree. Great if you are a percussionist. For the rest of us, however, the tone emitted by tapping the flakes on this route is a tad scary (but the gear is good). Finishes with double bolt belay at the Black Magic step.

FA: S. Parsons,P. Bigg, Apr 1978., 1976

17 Trad 35m
18 Breakneck 14 Trad
19 * Smoke and Mirrors 19 Trad 35m
20 Dal Nulla

FA: P. Robinson,C. (Basil) Rathbone, May 2013, 2013

13 Trad 30m
21 ** Crucio 17 Trad 30m
22 Humpty Dumpty 14 Trad 30m

Breaker Spur Area

23 Breaker Chimney

FA: T. Terry, K. Hall, 1968

14 Trad 110m 4
24 * Breaker Spur 13 Trad 100m 4
25 ** Indian Summer
  1. A roaming line starting up face reaching between horizontal breaks to small roof. Traverse R under roof and up to small ledge.

  2. Up broken corner crack to top of initial column, head up and R to bolt belay. (combining first two pitches is definitely possible)

  3. Diagonally L to another bolted belay and rap station.

FA: T. McKenny & P. Robinson, 2013

16 Trad 49m 3
26 Spice Trade

FA: L. Martin, T. Smith, 2014

19 Trad 19m
27 ** Cracked Pepper

FA: I. Snape, T. McKenny (alt.), A. Adams, 2012

17 Trad 46m 2
28 Breakout

FA: G. Kowalik, P. Robinson, 1979

13 Trad 110m 3
29 Hormesis

FA: H. Jackson, A. Donoghue, 2014

20 Trad 48m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
13 * Breaker Spur Trad 100m 4 1.3. Bulging Buttress
Breakout Trad 110m 3 1.3. Bulging Buttress
Dal Nulla Trad 30m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
14 Breaker Chimney Trad 110m 4 1.3. Bulging Buttress
Breakneck Trad 1.3. Bulging Buttress
Humpty Dumpty Trad 30m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
** Lignum Vitae Trad 100m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
15 * Ozymandias Trad 65m 1.1. University Buttress
16 Sisyphus Trad 55m 2 1.1. University Buttress
Catch the Sun in Flight Sport 12m, 4 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
Eye for a Line Trad 34m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
** Indian Summer Trad 49m 3 1.3. Bulging Buttress
17 *** Chancellor Direct Trad 60m 2 1.1. University Buttress
Aperitif Trad 30m 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
** Cracked Pepper Trad 46m 2 1.3. Bulging Buttress
** Crucio Trad 30m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
Jelly Roll Trad 35m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
Magic Mushroom Variants Trad 50m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
18 * Cleavage Trad 20m 1.1. University Buttress
Triclinicity Trad 20m 1.1. University Buttress
Sphygmus Trad 18m 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
*** Black Magic Trad 55m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
** The Wizard Trad 80m 2 1.3. Bulging Buttress
19 *** Carpe Diem Trad 45m 1.1. University Buttress
* Pete's Power Plummet Trad 70m 3 1.1. University Buttress
* 19 Shades of Grey Sport 15m, 5 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
* Falstaff Trad 25m 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
* Sparkle Sport 10m, 5 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
Sun Stealer Sport 14m, 6 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
* Malignant Mushroom Trad 50m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
* Smoke and Mirrors Trad 35m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
Spice Trade Trad 19m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
20 Clench your fist and think of England Trad 18m 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
Hormesis Trad 48m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
21 * Two Angry Young Men Trad 50m 2 1.1. University Buttress
** Terra Nullis Sport 30m, 9 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
*** Cold Power Trad 30m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
* Warm Glow Sport 30m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
22 *** Blank Generation Trad 60m 2 1.1. University Buttress
* Blind Vision Trad 47m 2 1.1. University Buttress
*** (S.S.S.S.I.) Seriously Searching for Sanity but Suiciding Instead Trad 40m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
*** Beaten and Abused Trad 40m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
** Crazed and Confused Trad 40m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
** Equipoise Mixed 30m, 1 1.3. Bulging Buttress
*** Heat Pump Sport 30m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
** Whatever Sport 20m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
23 * Wide Boy Trad 24m 1.1. University Buttress
24 Rebel Without Claws Top rope 25m 1.1. University Buttress
** Isonomy Trad 30m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
25 * Torre Sport 8m 1.2. Avalanche Couloir
*** Mildly Amused Trad 35m 1.3. Bulging Buttress
27 Kwang Hwa Lantern Sport 20m 1.2. Avalanche Couloir