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Summary

Shorter dolerite columns 15m to 30m high, known for steep and relentless climbing.

© (jellyfish)

Description

The Lost World is located close to the big bend on Pinnacle Road.

It's more sheltered than the pipes and can get quite hot on a sunny day.

© (jellyfish)

Approach

Park on the big bend on Pinnacle Road.

Access by crossing the road and the small creek and follow a muddy track slightly uphill for about 50m. Look for a less used track to your right, often marked with a cairn. Follow this track through trees for about 5min down to a boulder field and the top of the cliff.

20m directly opposite where you emerge from the trees is the ledge above Savage Journey, easily identified by a nice gum tree.

There is a bolted rap station here, just above Lactos, at the end of the ledge.

A 5min walk around the northern end of the crag will get you back to the top.

© (jellyfish)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Rap bolts

hand, fist, finger crack

Start: L of Savage Journey is a dirty corner chimney and L of this is a fine looking north facing crack.

FA: Joe Friend

FA: Henry Barber

FA: P. Bigg & S. Parsons

The obvious arête right of Cruise Air and left of Lactos.

Many holds have broken, originally 29, possibly now in the region of grim 30/31.

FA: K. Robinson & Jan 2004., 2004

Brilliant fun little chimney - stay near the entrance. First ok nut placement is 12m up, so top-roping is recommended

Contrived but cool climbing with an as-yet impossible topout.

FA: Phil Steane

FA: Lyle Closs & Ian Lewis

FA: D. Gray

Stem and jamb the thin corner left of Back on the boarderline

FA: David Gray & Danny Rossen, 1992

Up wall past 2 bolts, into thin had crack

FA: David Gray & Alison Hall, 1990

The offwidth/ squeeze chimney between BOB and NF. A no 5 big bro and a #9 cam help.

hand crack

Start: The front of the buttress to the R of the central gully

FA: K. Lindorff & K. McConnell

"Devoid of any natural gear"

15m right of the central gully, twin cracks with an overhang halfway up the cliff. Jam the cleaner righthand crack (though it is still often slippery).

Climb short crack on L, traverse R and then into main crack

Start: Wall with two horizontal breaks about 50m R of the central gully.

FA: I. Lewis & K. Carrigan, 1974

Bolted arête right of Lost Wanderer. Sustained and powerful.

FA: Al Williams, 2004

The bolted arête to the left of Dyazide and right of Great Southern Land, starting from the ledge at half height.

FA: K. Robinson & Jan 2004., 2004

Short finger and laback crack below Endorphin. A couple of bouldery moves, small/medium wire protects the middle.

Ends on ledge, or link into Endorphin!

Possibly 24 if your tall with small fingers.

FA: Alex Hartshorne, 13 Dec 2017

The original free version. Starts up the off-width on the left before stepping right into the finger crack. Finishes around on the left at the end in an easy corner.

FFA: Mike Law, 1978

The way to do it. Climb via both the Direct Start (25) past 2 bolts, and the Direct Finish (25) past another bolt.

Closed Project

Line of bolts right of Rosy Pink Cadillac

James scarborough

FA: P. Morris & P. Cullen

Unique and weird. Do it for the entertainment value. Tackles the prominent diagonal left leaning flake at the right end of the cliff. Struggle up the off-width chimney 3m left of Paladin until you can traverse out left at the flake. Move up the flake to a roof, swing left around the arête and finish up an easy chimney.

FA: Phil Steane & Nov 1982., 1982

The small little roof crack on he yellow dot path to new world. Perfect hand crack with crux pulling the lip.

Activity

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