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Approach

15 minutes

Descent Notes

From the top, walk back through the child gate, turn right at the tee and after 20m turn right and walk down the stone stairs.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
22 Charles' Climb Sport 9m, 3

Left hand line of bolts about two metres left of white arete. DBB shared with Akhenaten

FA: J. Nermut, 2013

2
20 * Akhenaten Sport 9m, 2

Right hand line of bolts about one metre left of white arete up slightly overhang face. DBB shared with Charles' Climb

FA: J. Nermut, 2013

3
12 Cheops Trad 9m

Start below the arête 4m L of a mossy corner and climb to its R to an old carrot bolt runner near the top.

FA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg & J. Parsons, 1980

4
9 Blue Nile Trad 9m

The chimney crack 7m L of White Nile. Straight up the crack.

FA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg & J. Parsons, 1980

5
21 Get A Grip Sport 12m, 3

2m L of Gandhi, the LH side of the face. Three BR's with lower-off.

FA: N. Selby, 2000

6
20 Ghandi Sport 12m, 2

The RH side of the face to the L of the grotty cave where SSSH starts. Two BR's with lower-off.

FA: N. Selby, 2000

7
16 White Nile Trad 10m

The overhanging corner crack on the left of the SSSH cave. Escape L.

FA: S. Parsons & P. Bigg, 1980

8

Fun and games left of SSSH. The fun, start on the rock as for SSSH but head left to the pockets. The games begins after the fourth bolt, suck it up and clip the anchors. Please leave the draw for the next ascent.

FA: D. Humphries, 2013

9

Some people leave off the "Hot" in their description. Located 40m L of Phoenix at the grotty cave. Climb the steep wall, moving R past two bolts to a rap station with a sling on it.

FA: G. Phillips, 1996

10
25 Mr Wiggles Trad 8m

The prow R of Short, Sharp and Shit Hot, using natural gear. Finish as for SSSH.

FA: K. Robinson, 1997

11
26 Firewire Sport 8m

Short and intense, starts 5m right of SSSH. Bolts through overhang.

FA: G. Phillips, 2004

12

Start 10m L of Tutankhamen next to a large gum tree at a face with a couple of stainless carrots in it. Climb the short wall past 2BRs to a large platform (wire and camming placement here). Continue up from the R hand end of the platform past two more BRs to the top.

FA: O. Prall & R. Vincent, 1992

13
24 Pharos Sport 24m

A 7m excursion across the roof flake immediately L of Tutankhamen. Climb the slanting weakness, 5m L of Tut, up to the first bulge. Over this and R slightly to the roof flake (BR). Traverse the diagonal flake out to the lip. Surmount the lip and continue to the top. Again, needs re-bolting.

FA: P. Bigg, S. Parsons & K. Carrigan, 1982

14
21 Tutankhamen Sport 20m

Around the corner from Phoenix, 3m L of the crumbly arête formed where the cliff changes direction to face southeast. Move up a shallow corner to an old bolt and traverse diagonally R towards a small ledge on the arête. Climb the arête to the roof, move diagonally R across the roof and round the lip to a small cave. Surmount the final overhang to the top. Could do with some re-bolting.

FA: P. Bigg, 1980

15
24 ** Pheonix Sport 12m, 5

The mega roof is straightforward. Getting established on the headwall is not. Take a longer sling for the bolt on the lip. Finish directly up to single U bolt, or traverse right to DBB with WLAE.

16
22 ** Walk Like an Egyptian Sport 12m, 5

Shares 2 bolts with Phoenix, before cranking through the right side of big roof to a DBB.

17
18 * Mindbeast Trad 20m

The difficulties on this are psychological. The impressive hand crack, which splits the main overhang 20m from the RH end. Up the initial slab, then climb the crack through the overhangs.

FA: I. Lewis & P. Reynolds, 1974

18
22 The Pie Man Sport 8m, 5

Long moves between good holds. The 'chain' is level with the last bolt, about a metre r of the hole at the top.

19
23 * Fear Factory Sport 10m, 4

As for Pieman, traverse roof lip to bolt then up.

20
26 First Blood Sport 20m

Climb Fear Factory then drop down and continue traversing along lip past another five U-bolts to a rap station.

FA: S. Edwards, 1997

21

Start 3m R of Fear Factory and follow the bolts past a hard pull at half height.

FA: C. Veal, 2004

22
27 Storm Trooper Sport

Start as for Calm Before the Storm but go direct through the roof and to the chains of Ignition Sequence Start.

FA: G. Phillips, 2004

23

Located 2m R of Ignition Sequence Start. Scramble up the slab and crank through the bulge and then move R to lower from the chains of Rambo.

FA: G. Phillips, 2004

24
31 ** Spaced Out Sport 15m

Links Space Invader in to Storm Trooper, a very sustained piece of climbing.

FA: J. Bresnehan, 2005

25
30 ** Space Invader Sport 12m

Starts as for Rambo but heads direct.

FA: G. Phillips, 2004

26
25 ** Rambo Sport 15m, 5

Uses the same start as Lean Mean Fighting Machine. However from the corner cut back L and finish through the steep roof.

FA: G. Phillips, 2004

27

A desperate endeavour 10m R of Fear Factory. Crank through the bulging wall to a rest in the corner. Traverse R along the break and then up via a desperate boulder problem finish.

FA: G. Phillips, 2004

28

Direct start to Lean Mean Fighting Machine

FA: G. Phillips, 2005

29
17 Mogul Trad 15m

The bottomless crack which forms the RH extremity of the main overhang. Pull up and mantel to the start of the crack. Climb the crack and face above to the top.

FA: I. Lewis & P. Reynolds, 1974

30
14 Duckpond Trad 15m

Start as for Mogul. Pull up and mantel onto the ledge at 4m, Move a couple of metres R to a crack/groove, and continue up this to the top to a DBB or topout into the bush.

FA: L. Closs & I. Lewis, 1973

31
22 * The Honey Gobbler Sport 10m

Takes the arete above where the walking track meets the cliff. The first bolt is a high stick clip to protect the bouldery start. Head up the arete then left at the top to the DBB above Duckpond.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphries, 2013

32
22 * Rent a Forearm Mixed 10m, 1

Slightly overhanging climbing with a single bolt up high. DBB.

FA: S. Parsons, 1985

33
24 Morning Raid Sport 10m

On the overhanging north facing wall by the track down to the main cliff. Climb the centre of the wall with 3 U-bolts and a rap station. You may want to stick clip the first bolt. A bit awkward at the top.

FA: S. Parsons, E. Peacock & J. Kennedy, 1985