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Approach

15 minutes

Descent notes

From the top, walk back through the child gate, turn right at the tee and after 20m turn right and walk down the stone stairs.

Routes

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Grade Route

Left hand line of bolts about two metres left of white arete. DBB shared with Akhenaten

FA: J. Nermut, 2013

Right hand line of bolts about one metre left of white arete up slightly overhang face. DBB shared with Charles' Climb

FA: J. Nermut, 2013

Start below the arête 4m L of a mossy corner and climb to its R to an old carrot bolt runner near the top.

FA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg & J. Parsons, 1980

The chimney crack 7m L of White Nile. Straight up the crack.

FA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg & J. Parsons, 1980

2m L of Gandhi, the LH side of the face. Three BR's with lower-off.

FA: N. Selby, 2000

The RH side of the face to the L of the grotty cave where SSSH starts. Two BR's with lower-off.

FA: N. Selby, 2000

The overhanging corner crack on the left of the SSSH cave. Escape L.

FA: S. Parsons & P. Bigg, 1980

Fun and games left of SSSH. The fun, start on the rock as for SSSH but head left to the pockets. The games begins after the fourth bolt, suck it up and clip the anchors. Please leave the draw for the next ascent.

FA: D. Humphries, 2013

Some people leave off the "Hot" in their description. Located 40m L of Phoenix at the grotty cave. Climb the steep wall, moving R past two bolts to a rap station with a fixed biner

FA: G. Phillips, 1996

The prow R of Short, Sharp and Shit Hot, using natural gear. Finish as for SSSH.

FA: K. Robinson, 1997

Short and intense, starts 5m right of SSSH. Bolts through overhang.

FA: G. Phillips, 2004

Start 10m L of Tutankhamen next to a large gum tree at a face with a couple of stainless carrots in it. Climb the short wall past 2BRs to a large platform (wire and camming placement here). Continue up from the R hand end of the platform past two more BRs to the top.

FA: O. Prall & R. Vincent, 1992

Climbs the line of U bolts up the face then through the large 7m roof to a dbb 2 meters around the lip of roof. Nice technical face, then a tough 4 move boulder problem getting into the roof jugs then crank through to the dbb. Back jump to clean, dont lower off the bolts over the lip as there is lots of rope drag.

FA: adam bogus, 2016

A 7m excursion across the roof flake immediately L of Tutankhamen. Climb the slanting weakness, 5m L of Tut, up to the first bulge. Over this and R slightly to the roof flake (BR). Traverse the diagonal flake out to the lip. Surmount the lip and continue to the top. Again, needs re-bolting.

FA: P. Bigg, S. Parsons & K. Carrigan, 1982

Around the corner from Phoenix, 3m L of the crumbly arête formed where the cliff changes direction to face southeast. Move up a shallow corner to an old bolt and traverse diagonally R towards a small ledge on the arête. Climb the arête to the roof, move diagonally R across the roof and round the lip to a small cave. Surmount the final overhang to the top. Could do with some re-bolting.

FA: P. Bigg, 1980

The mega roof is straightforward. Getting established on the headwall is not. Take a longer sling for the bolt on the lip. Finish directly up to single U bolt, or traverse right to DBB with WLAE.

Shares 2 bolts with Phoenix, before cranking through the right side of big roof to a DBB.

The difficulties on this are psychological. The impressive hand crack, which splits the main overhang 20m from the RH end. Up the initial slab, then climb the crack through the overhangs.

FA: I. Lewis & P. Reynolds, 1974

Long moves between good holds. The 'chain' is level with the last bolt, about a metre r of the hole at the top.

As for Pieman, traverse roof lip to bolt then up.

Climb Fear Factory then drop down and continue traversing along lip past another five U-bolts to a rap station.

FA: S. Edwards, 1997

Start 3m R of Fear Factory and follow the bolts past a hard pull at half height.

FA: C. Veal, 2004

Start as for Calm Before the Storm but go direct through the roof and to the chains of Ignition Sequence Start.

FA: G. Phillips, 2004

Located 2m R of Ignition Sequence Start. Scramble up the slab and crank through the bulge and then move R to lower from the chains of Rambo.

FA: G. Phillips, 2004

Links Space Invader in to Storm Trooper, a very sustained piece of climbing.

FA: J. Bresnehan, 2005

Starts as for Rambo but heads direct.

FA: G. Phillips, 2004

Uses the same start as Lean Mean Fighting Machine. However from the corner cut back L and finish through the steep roof.

FA: G. Phillips, 2004

A desperate endeavour 10m R of Fear Factory. Crank through the bulging wall to a rest in the corner. Traverse R along the break and then up via a desperate boulder problem finish.

FA: G. Phillips, 2004

Direct start to Lean Mean Fighting Machine

FA: G. Phillips, 2005

The bottomless crack which forms the RH extremity of the main overhang. Pull up and mantel to the start of the crack. Climb the crack and face above to the top.

FA: I. Lewis & P. Reynolds, 1974

Start as for Mogul. Pull up and mantel onto the ledge at 4m, Move a couple of metres R to a crack/groove, and continue up this to the top to a DBB or topout into the bush.

FA: L. Closs & I. Lewis, 1973

Takes the arete above where the walking track meets the cliff. The first bolt is a high stick clip to protect the bouldery start. Head up the arete then left at the top to the DBB above Duckpond.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphries, 2013

Slightly overhanging climbing with a single bolt up high. DBB.

FA: S. Parsons, 1985

On the overhanging north facing wall by the track down to the main cliff. Climb the centre of the wall with 3 U-bolts and a rap station. You may want to stick clip the first bolt. A bit awkward at the top.

FA: S. Parsons, E. Peacock & J. Kennedy, 1985

Activity

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