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Routes

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Grade Route

SSSSI Wall

Access to this face requires climbing 50m up Avalanche Couloir and scrambling back R to the base of the wall

2
25 *** Mildly Amused Trad 35m
3
22 *** Beaten and Abused Trad 40m
4

FA: N. Deka, D. Stephenson & Feb 1989, 1989

Black Magic Area

5
22 *** Whatever Sport 20m

Starts at the highest point of the gully, climbing to the base of the climb is a bit precarious. Face climbing to the roof, then great technical climbing up the arete using oddly angled flakes.

FA: Roger Parkyn, 2015

FFA: Chris L, 2015

6
18 ** The Wizard Trad 80m 2
7
21 *** Cold Power Trad 30m
8
22 *** Heat Pump Sport 30m

The second pitch is a Pipes classic. Steep, featured, and pumpy.

  1. 15m 18. Follow U bolts to large sloping ledge and DBB. Likely a sandbag at 18, but interesting and well bolted.

  2. 15m 22. The main attraction. Follow the black streak and gently overhanging arete. Pumpy, safe, and technically interesting.

There is a lower-off at the top of the 2nd pitch. With a 60m rope and care, the belayer can lower the climber to the ground, then abseil to the groud using the climber as a counterweight.

9
21 ** Warm Glow Sport 30m
10
14 * Lignum Vitae Trad 100m
11
18 *** Black Magic Trad 55m

Clamber up the rocks to a lightly overhanging finger crack. Follow this up and over several spears of rock, When you reach the second (larger) platform, head to the crack on the left. Be sure to check around the corner to the right so you don't miss the rap bolts. If you reach a platform behind the large boulder you've already passed them.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Ian Lewis, 1975

13
19 * Malignant Mushroom Trad 50m
14
22 ** Equipoise Mixed 30m, 1
15
24 ** Isonomy Trad 30m

FA: A. Donoghue & H. Jackson, 2014

16
16 Eye for a Line Trad 34m
17
17 * Jelly Roll Trad 35m

Cracked face just to the right of the prow, 2m left of the tree. Great if you are a percussionist. For the rest of us, however, the tone emitted by tapping the flakes on this route is a tad scary (but the gear is good). Finishes with double bolt belay at the Black Magic step.

FA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg & Apr 1978., 1976

18
14 Breakneck Trad
19
19 ** Smoke and Mirrors Trad 35m
20
13 Dal Nulla Trad 30m

FA: P. Robinson, C. (Basil) Rathbone & May 2013, 2013

21
17 ** Crucio Trad 30m
22
14 Humpty Dumpty Trad 30m

Breaker Spur Area

23
14 Breaker Chimney Trad 110m 4

FA: T. Terry & K. Hall, 1968

24
13 ** Breaker Spur Trad 100m 4
25
16 ** Indian Summer Trad 49m 3
  1. A roaming line starting up face reaching between horizontal breaks to small roof. Traverse R under roof and up to small ledge.

  2. Up broken corner crack to top of initial column, head up and R to bolt belay. (combining first two pitches is definitely possible)

  3. Diagonally L to another bolted belay and rap station.

FA: T. McKenny & P. Robinson, 2013

26
19 Spice Trade Trad 19m

FA: L. Martin & T. Smith, 2014

27
17 ** Cracked Pepper Trad 46m 2

FA: I. Snape, T. McKenny (alt.) & A. Adams, 2012

28
13 Breakout Trad 110m 3

FA: G. Kowalik & P. Robinson, 1979

29
20 Hormesis Trad 48m

FA: H. Jackson & A. Donoghue, 2014

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