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Nodes in Sphinx Rock

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Sphinx Rock

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Main face

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Main face
22 Charles' Climb

Left hand line of bolts about two metres left of white arete. DBB shared with Akhenaten

20 Akhenaten

Right hand line of bolts about one metre left of white arete up slightly overhang face. DBB shared with Charles' Climb

12 Cheops

Start below the arête 4m L of a mossy corner and climb to its R to an old carrot bolt runner near the top.

9 Blue Nile

The chimney crack 7m L of White Nile. Straight up the crack.

21 Get A Grip

2m L of Gandhi, the LH side of the face. Three BR's with lower-off.

20 Ghandi

The RH side of the face to the L of the grotty cave where SSSH starts. Two BR's with lower-off.

16 White Nile

The overhanging corner crack on the left of the SSSH cave. Escape L.

23 Short, Sharp and Shit Scared

Fun and games left of SSSH. The fun, start on the rock as for SSSH but head left to the pockets. The games begins after the fourth bolt, suck it up and clip the anchors. Please leave the draw for the next ascent.

24 Short Sharp and Shit Hot

Some people leave off the "Hot" in their description. Located 40m L of Phoenix at the grotty cave. Climb the steep wall, moving R past two bolts to a rap station with a fixed biner

25 Mr Wiggles

The prow R of Short, Sharp and Shit Hot, using natural gear. Finish as for SSSH.

26 Firewire

Short and intense, starts 5m right of SSSH. Bolts through overhang.

17 Araldite, Goddess Of Bondage

Start 10m L of Tutankhamen next to a large gum tree at a face with a couple of stainless carrots in it. Climb the short wall past 2BRs to a large platform (wire and camming placement here). Continue up from the R hand end of the platform past two more BRs to the top.

28 Scandal Savage

Climbs the line of U bolts up the face then through the large 7m roof to a dbb 2 meters around the lip of roof. Nice technical face, then a tough 4 move boulder problem getting into the roof jugs then crank through to the dbb. Back jump to clean, dont lower off the bolts over the lip as there is lots of rope drag.

24 Pharos

A 7m excursion across the roof flake immediately L of Tutankhamen. Climb the slanting weakness, 5m L of Tut, up to the first bulge. Over this and R slightly to the roof flake (BR). Traverse the diagonal flake out to the lip. Surmount the lip and continue to the top. Again, needs re-bolting.

21 Tutankhamen

Around the corner from Phoenix, 3m L of the crumbly arête formed where the cliff changes direction to face southeast. Move up a shallow corner to an old bolt and traverse diagonally R towards a small ledge on the arête. Climb the arête to the roof, move diagonally R across the roof and round the lip to a small cave. Surmount the final overhang to the top. Could do with some re-bolting.

24 Horus

Take the first four bolts of Phoenix, then shoot out climbers left to the project bolt. Needs careful extensions (slinging bolt 4 is a must). Finish there on a rainy day, or pull onto the headwall and head for the anchor.

24 Phoenix

The mega roof is straightforward. Getting established on the headwall is not. Take a longer sling for the bolt on the lip. Finish directly up to single U bolt, or traverse right to DBB with WLAE.

22 Walk Like an Egyptian

Shares 2 bolts with Phoenix, before cranking through the right side of big roof to a DBB.

18 Mindbeast

The difficulties on this are psychological. The impressive hand crack, which splits the main overhang 20m from the RH end. Up the initial slab, then climb the crack through the overhangs.

22 The Pie Man

Long moves between good holds. The 'chain' is level with the last bolt, about a metre r of the hole at the top.

23 Fear Factory

As for Pieman, traverse roof lip to bolt then up.

26 First Blood

Climb Fear Factory then drop down and continue traversing along lip past another five U-bolts to a rap station.

24 Ignition Sequence Start

Start 3m R of Fear Factory and follow the bolts past a hard pull at half height.

27 Storm Trooper

Start as for Calm Before the Storm but go direct through the roof and to the chains of Ignition Sequence Start.

28 Calm Before The Storm

Located 2m R of Ignition Sequence Start. Scramble up the slab and crank through the bulge and then move R to lower from the chains of Rambo.

31 Spaced Out

Links Space Invader in to Storm Trooper, a very sustained piece of climbing.

30 Space Invader

Starts as for Rambo but heads direct.

25 Rambo

Uses the same start as Lean Mean Fighting Machine. However from the corner cut back hard left and finish through the steep roof on underclings. Exciting mantle awaits.

28 Lean Mean Fighting Machine

A desperate endeavour 10m R of Fear Factory. Crank through the bulging wall to a rest in the corner. Traverse R along the break and then up via a desperate boulder problem finish.

28 Lean Mean Fighting Machine Direct

Direct start to Lean Mean Fighting Machine

17 Mogul

The bottomless crack which forms the RH extremity of the main overhang. Pull up and mantel to the start of the crack. Climb the crack and face above to the top.

14 Duckpond

Start as for Mogul. Pull up and mantel onto the ledge at 4m, Move a couple of metres R to a crack/groove, and continue up this to the top to a DBB or topout into the bush.

22 The Honey Gobbler

Takes the arete above where the walking track meets the cliff. The first bolt is a high stick clip to protect the bouldery start. Head up the arete then left at the top to the DBB above Duckpond.

22 Rent a Forearm

Slightly overhanging climbing with a single bolt up high. DBB.

24 Morning Raid

On the overhanging north facing wall by the track down to the main cliff. Climb the centre of the wall with 3 U-bolts and a rap station. You may want to stick clip the first bolt. A bit awkward at the top.

Sphinx's Nose

Fun boulder, gets the snow melt and rain running right over the top of it, so is likely to climb best in late spring/summer after a dry spell.

Sphinx's Nose
V1 Bat Cave

Follow the roof through the cave by using the pockets along both edges of the roof. It's possible to climb most of the way to the exit, you'll need to touch down to finish through the squeeze exit.

V0 Trajectory

Start on jugs to the left of the cave. Nice jug hauling that needs a little commitment at the top.

V1 Tip Top

Start on slopey sidepull. Nice.

V5 Shallow Grave

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

V4 Unremembered

Start on the rail under the arete. Great climbing from bottom to top rockover. Stand is V2.

V8 Al's Traverse

Can't remember too many details of this. It started at Unremembered or Crimpfest and continued to the top out right.

V4 Crimpfest

Start on pockets, pop to crimp and up. Main issue these days is not dabbing the tree.

V7 Hushed by an Angel

Long low traverse along the edge, under the nose and up and out the entrance. Named after the Philtrum.

V3 The Duchess

Start in two shallow pockets near the tree and head up and right to the finish of the V2.

V2 Redknapp

Start in the left two of three obvious pockets. Work up to the good finishing jug beneath the moss.

V4 Roman

Start half a meter right of v2. Move up under the undercling press, through obvious U shaped ridge to finish on the same large jug as v2.

V2 Ski-Jump

Sit start in the large pockety jug about 1 metre before the 'entrance' ramp on the very right of the boulder. (This problem is the finish of Mirren)

Nerm's Boulder

This freestanding boulder is one of the best on the mountain.

Nerm's Boulder
V3 Blood stains

Sit start and pull up from the small cave on the left side of the boulder

V4 Traverse

Sit start as for Blood Stains, and traverse rightwards (fairly high) across the whole boulder to finish up the arete.

V7 Blood Letting

Do the first move of Blood Stains then head right into the V0 via some powerful moves.

V9 The Vampire Song

A fun linkup. Start as for Blood Letting then reverse The Turd Burglar and finish up Yoshimi.

V0 Up jugs

Stand start, climb up on big jugs. Be aware of loose rocks on top.

V5 The Turd Burglar

Sit start as for Yoshimi and move left to sidepulls then up to jugs

V6 The Turd Burglar Direct

Sit start on crimps just left of Yoshimi, crank up right to good edge then continue as for Turd Burglar.

V6 Yoshimi...

Sit start off good jug just above left hand end of low rail. Straight up to pocket and sidepulls and over bulge

V3 Baba

Sit start at right hand end of low rail, straight up. Watch the hollow sounding jugs at the top

V5 Deda

Sit start as for Yoshimi, move right across the line of pockets to the arete and finish up Ganamatronix

V6 Ganamatronix

Sit start at sidepull 2m left of the arete. Move right to the arete and climb up the steep side of the arete, moving right at the top.

V0 Slab right of arete

Slab just right of arete. Stand start.

V0 Slab further right

Slab 3m right of arete. Stand start.

Showing all 64 nodes.

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