University Buttress Guide

Sustained pitch with some excellent moves.

Excellent face climbing. Access by climbing Well Actually.

Access pitch for Hold That Thought

Cracks left of the Triclinicity corner, to DBB.

The clean hand crack. Either step left at the roof (grade 17) or continue direct up the crack (grade 19). Belay anchors at top.

Start: Starts at the clean RH facing corner near the foot of Avalanche Couloir

1. 35m (17) Up the corner and face to the overhang. Pass this on the L and continue up the line to a ledge at the base of a detached pillar

2. 25m (16) Climb up behind the pillar, then up the crack above. At the top traverse R to the abseil anchors at the top of Carpe Diem

Takes the prominent corner line immediately right of Chancellor Direct about 8m up the left side of Avalanche Couloir. Start in the big broken right facing corner as for Vice Chancellor or start up the short wall just right of Chancellor Direct to meet the big corner after 8m. This second option doesn't add much other than the possibility of a painful ground fall.

1. 30m. Follow the corner for 15m, traverse left and up to small square ledge. Climb the awkward crack to belay on an exposed ledge on the wall.

2. 25m. Up the clean crack above. The move off the next ledge into the crack was originally aided. At the top traverse right to the rap anchors at the top of Carpe Diem.

Starts as for Chancellor in the big right facing corner between Chancellor Direct and Carpe Diem.

1. 14m. Up Chancellor to a stance.

2. 24m. Climb to the base of the long chimney directly above. Gain the chimney directly via a 5m double crack, then continue up to the large chockstone.

3. 18m. Climb out around the chockstones and up the final corner crack.

Brilliant face climbing. A double set of small/medium wires very useful. About 10m right of CD is a recessed column. Scramble up to the base with care. Up, till you can step right onto the column proper. Follow shallow r facing corner till the gear fizzles out, then reach righ to gain hidden flake. Follow this up to gain top of column. There is a DBB a few metres up and left.

Crack to right of carpet diem with roof at 20m.

Bolted arete up and right from Cape Diem. DBB.

1a. A tasty morsel climbing the left-hand arete. Thoughtful moves past the bolts, then over the small roof, with a trad hand crack to the DBB (17m).

1b. Extra Nibbles. (17) If you want a little more trad action, climb the alternative start up the crack just around to the left of Canapes, joining the original route above the roof.

The arete directly off the walking track. Good but spaced protection.

Starts directly from the track between Bulging Buttress and University Buttress. Climb right side of arete on flakes and horizontals.

Wall climbing immediatly left of Sun Stealer.

Up black streak immediatly left of 19 Shades. Shares last bolt and DBB with that route.

Located on small buttress next to track between Bulging Buttress and University Buttress, at the base of Avalanche Couloir. Climb the right side of short black streaked wall to DBB.

2m R of '19 Shades of Grey.' Through the roofs. Head left under the roof and crank up the arete, to skip the broken hold crux