Bulging Buttress


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Access to this face requires climbing 50m up Avalanche Couloir and scrambling back R to the base of the wall

FA: N. Deka, D. Stephenson & Feb 1989, 1989

Starts at the highest point of the gully, climbing to the base of the climb is a bit precarious. Face climbing to the roof, then great technical climbing up the arete using oddly angled flakes.

FA: Roger Parkyn, 22 Nov 2015

FFA: Chris L, 24 Nov 2015

The second pitch is a Pipes classic. Steep, featured, and pumpy.

  1. 15m 18. Follow U bolts to large sloping ledge and DBB. Likely a sandbag at 18, but interesting and well bolted.

  2. 15m 22. The main attraction. Follow the black streak and gently overhanging arete. Pumpy, safe, and technically interesting.

There is a lower-off at the top of the 2nd pitch. With a 60m rope and care, the belayer can lower the climber to the ground, then abseil to the groud using the climber as a counterweight.

Clamber up the rocks to a lightly overhanging finger crack. Follow this up and over several spears of rock, When you reach the second (larger) platform, head to the crack on the left. Be sure to check around the corner to the right so you don't miss the rap bolts. If you reach a platform behind the large boulder you've already passed them.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Ian Lewis, 1975

FA: A. Donoghue & H. Jackson, Feb 2014

Cracked face just to the right of the prow, 2m left of the tree. Great if you are a percussionist. For the rest of us, however, the tone emitted by tapping the flakes on this route is a tad scary (but the gear is good). Finishes with double bolt belay at the Black Magic step.

FA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg & Apr 1978., 1976

FA: P. Robinson, C. (Basil) Rathbone & May 2013, May 2013

FA: T. Terry & K. Hall, 1968

  1. A roaming line starting up face reaching between horizontal breaks to small roof. Traverse R under roof and up to small ledge.

  2. Up broken corner crack to top of initial column, head up and R to bolt belay. (combining first two pitches is definitely possible)

  3. Diagonally L to another bolted belay and rap station.

FA: T. McKenny & P. Robinson, 2013

FA: L. Martin & T. Smith, Feb 2014

FA: I. Snape, T. McKenny (alt.) & A. Adams, Dec 2012

FA: G. Kowalik & P. Robinson, 1979

FA: H. Jackson & A. Donoghue, Mar 2014

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