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Description

Highest climbs in the quarry. Beware, some of these routes are seldom climbed and full of choss.

Access issues inherited from Mountain Quarry

The gravel road into the quarry runs off the carpark on Coulston Road and has a combination-locked gate (normally locked), the code to which can be obtained from the Department of Parks and Wildlife or the CAWA forums. The quarry is also easily accessible on foot from the car park.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 * Usurper Mixed 25m, 2

FA: 2013

2
23 Shield of Achilles Sport 55m, 16
3
25 * Barren Awakening Aid 35m
4
23 M0 Learning to Fly Aid 35m
5
23 Rage Sport 23m
6
22 Outrage Unknown 23m
7
20 Gunga Kim Trad 55m

Old deathroute. First pitch now hopelessly entwined in new bolted routes.

10

Pitch 1: tricky move to gain the slab. 5BR and mid-size friends. Belay below the headwall. Pitch 2: power over the headwall, gingerly cross the slab and crank up the arete. 5BR to friends. (Mountain Quarry mini-guide, © Neil Gledhill 2008)

11
20 Psychopath Unknown 30m
12
20 On Edge Unknown 40m
13
18 Ace Sport 50m, 5

5 BRs plus natural gear.

15
15 Frog Groove Trad 45m
16
13 to 15 Thick Red Line Sport 45m

Start on the left of the thick red band in the rock. Nice easy climb with plenty of GIMBs to two ring bolts 3/4 the way up. Second pitch is short and runout. Could be done in one pitch.

17
15 Double Nuts Unknown 45m

Start at the crack on the arete right of the red band.

18
17 Opiate of the Masses Sport 35m, 10