Playboy Area Mostly sport climbing21 routes in area
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Access issues inherited from Mountain Quarry
The gravel road into the quarry runs off the carpark on Coulston Road and has a combination-locked gate (normally locked), the code to which can be obtained from the Department of Parks and Wildlife. The quarry is also easily accessible on foot from the car park on Coulston Road. Don't leave valuables in your car.
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Slabby route in V-shaped groove. Thin seam provides good pro using nuts and cams. Be careful of loos blocks at bottom, and use good foot work to reach top.
Follow playboy to top slab and trend left to reach bolts
Start 2m left of ‘Penthouse’ on a small white triangle painted on the rock and go straight up the corner onto a blank-looking slab. Climb the first 2 slabs staying left of the bolts then up the right side of slab 3 and traverse left with hands across the top. Move further around the side and up, with a reachy move to finish. 8 RB to DBB. Don’t drop on the heads of climbers on ‘Playboy’. Alternate finish – from the last RB head right and finish at the top of ‘Penthouse’.
FA: J. Hollingworth & O. Morell, 2013
Follow carrots to large block at top, and do interesting moves to reach anchors. To climb at grade 18, stick left of carrots and avoid large jugs to the right.
Same as for Penthouse, but go slightly right at the top, not all the way right. Small/ medium cams can be used to protect the last 4m or so of the climb.
Great warm up route, or beginner route. Bulge at midway may test some climbers.