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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalitySport, Trad and other styles
Long/Lat: 116.062187, -31.914800
- Unique Features And Strengths:
Perth area's premier outdoor climbing crag with a large number of sport and trad climbs, close to the city with good parking.
Mountain Quarry is the Perth area's premier outdoor climbing crag. It is located within Greenmount National Park, north of Coulston Road. It is very well-developed with a large number of bolted routes, having first been visited in the 1960s and developed ever since. As well as many sport routes for all experience levels, it also offers a number of trad and multi-pitch routes.
- Access Issues:
The gravel road into the quarry runs off the carpark on Coulston Road and has a combination-locked gate (normally locked), the code to which can be obtained from the Department of Parks and Wildlife. The quarry is also easily accessible on foot from the car park on Coulston Road. Don't leave valuables in your car.
The quarry is situated on the north side of Coulston Road. The entrance to the car park is about 100 metres past the junction of Coulston and Hudman Roads. If the gate lock combination is known, the drive into the quarry is straightforward in a 2WD vehicle. The walk up the hill from the car park is about 5 minutes. Don't leave your car unlocked even when you are climbing nearby, opportunistic thieves on motorcycles are known to visit.
When the quarry was first visited in the mid-60s, it was a forbidding, rock-strewn death trap ringed by loose and menacing boulders on the skyline. The place is completely different today. Development at 'Mountain Quarry' was slow due to the lack of naturally protected lines at the then current level of climbing.
A breakthrough arrived in March of 1988 when Mark Colyvan from Armidale NSW freed the old Michael Adams - Tony Fowler aid route Damper A2 at the new grade of 23. The line was renamed 'Skywalker' and it still stands as a strenuous test piece for the grade. It takes a left traversing undercling and jam crack at the most obvious roof in the Quarry (on the right as you enter). In April 1988, Mike Law made a whirlwind visit and created Fuzz Bucky, with a chip here and a chip there. This climb can be found on the blank low angled wall facing the entrance. Originally grade 24, now 26, as far as the author knows this climb has not received a second ascent. These visits sparked new activity by locals, now armed with bolt kits
The first of these 'new' lines was Urban Ethics (22), a good quality face climb by father and son team R & R Master. Others joined in with a number of good climbs in the 20 - 21 range. Harry Butler produced Vader (22), an excellent line that has dumped a few budding hardmen, and 'Power Play' (20), a gently overhanging flake crack originally done on aid. Ron Master with Michael Adams then put up Go For Broke (21M2), a route involving some exposed face climbing with delicate aid moves to finish. Other routes for that year were Butler's 'Chrysalis', an unrepeated loose face climb, and R & R Master's sustained Hang Ten, which the team later straightened out at grade 24.
Sporadic activity continued through 1989 - 1990. A shaded seasonably wet bay at the back of the Quarry produced Split Personality, again by R & R Master. This climb takes a flake, wall and crack system with 2 variants at grades 17 or 21. These two also bolted and climbed Mullup (21), a good quality route with a delicate but well protected crux. David Wagland appeared on the scene in April 1990 to climb the classic Barren Awakening (23M1). This line consists of a wall and open corner at the central end of the Quarry facing the entrance. The crux involves a bracket bending dyno past the first bolt. Attempts to free the aid have failed.
Progress continued and the first sports-type climbs appeared but not without some controversy. On entering the Quarry, a small bay to the left is encountered which contains a steep 10m wall, with an obvious gently overhanging thin flake crack. This problem was first climbed, on aid, by Peter McKenzie who took a ground fall when his pitons zippered on the final placement. Several years later, a visiting UK climber was witnessed successfully soloing the climb after several times falling from half height. Then three bolts appeared courtesy of Shane Richardson, who did not know the past history, and City Limits was given a grade of 26.
Gary Matier put up Sylvia (21), on an obvious granite buttress in contact with a dark collapsed dolerite dyke, and The Force (22); a good line with varied wall climbing. Matthew Rosser contributed a sustained and technical climb on compact dolerite at grade 22, this line is called Land of the Orange Druggie. R & R Master were back again in 1991 with 'Fringe Benefits' (23). This climb shares its start with Vader but instead of moving left to the arete, takes a thin seam and wall through the left edge of the 'Skywalker' roof. The team also climbed a sister route to Wagland's Barren Awakening, which uses the same upper chain anchor. Learning to Fly (23M1) contains sustained and technical cruxes, hence the name
Even more recent is Peter Koval's Month of Sundays, a weekend project that eventually yielded a well prepared and technical grade 25. A bolted line has appeared on the wall between Urban Ethics and Go for Broke, put up by Phil Calais, it is graded at 24 and known as Star Wars. This climb contains some dubious bolts and pitons, hence it is advised that gear should be checked before leading.
The sports climbing scene arrived into the quarry with a vengeance with Anthony Bell's 1993 effort Cranial Void (27), a route that seems to have all the good holds upside down! Hardbody boulderer Derek Toulalan then added Sweet Pea, originally graded 28 but now downgraded to 27. Bell replied with Black Ambience (29) but the softly spoken Gerard Chipper has had the last word with his desperate deeds on Cardiofunk (29). These are the hardest climbing routes near 'Perth' to date. Much cleaning of the dirt-covered City Limits wall by Logan Barber & Co. produced Space 'Monkey' (28) and there are two more projects nearby.
'Mountain Quarry' still has the potential for new lines and not all of them in the upper grades. However, effort will be required to remove loose rock and create the necessary bolt placements. 'Mountain Quarry' is now Perth's premier top end climbing venue.
by Ron Master
Sport, Trad and Unknown
Long/Lat: 116.061865, -31.915359
- Description:© (hotgemini)
Obvious triangular buttress on R of Quarry as you enter it. It has overhanging aretes and is about 18m high. Hang Ten is on its R edge.
|3||Above the Trust||29||20m|
|6||State of Discontent||28||719m,|
This is an absolute Perth classic for the grade. May be harder than 24 since the bottom section has fallen off. Awesome moves make this an enjoyable climb.
Sport, Trad and other styles
Long/Lat: 116.062256, -31.915412
- Description:© (hotgemini)
The obvious large and clean orange face on the southern side of the quarry. Be careful. Large blocks on left side of face have recently fallen off face. Skywalker is particularly unstable, with parts of it now laying on the ground. Be careful, and probably re-consider, climbing any routes to the left of Urban Ethics.
|2||The Thin Red Line||22||835m,|
|5||No Wasted Space||25||30m|
This route should not be climbed due to face falling apart.
FA: Phil Calais
Start left of obvious crack (Power Play), by using top of pointed block and traversing left around arete (can go straight up to third bolt - same grade). Continue up run out section left of arete using ever smaller crimps. Red point crux is mantelling the shelf at top before anchors. Small cams (0.75 - 2 Camelots) could be used to protect top moves. Excellent climb and probably the best for this grade near Perth. Uses same anchors as Power Play. Anchors can be reached from top, but probably safer to abseil or be belayed from large boulders at top.
FA: Ron Master, 1988
Originally and aid route called Band Aid, this overhanging finger crack will result in you laybacking like never before. Protect with nuts and small to medium cams. Shares anchor with Urban Ethics. Perhaps best natural route in Perth.
FA: Greg Butler, Ron Masters, 1988
Running With the Bulls
Technical, pumpy and un-relenting.
FA: M. Rosser
Go For Broke
Aid climb for Premature Evacuation
Sport, Trad and other styles
Long/Lat: 116.062844, -31.914852
Highest climbs in the quarry. Beware, some of these routes are seldom climbed and full of choss.
|1||Shield of Achilles||23||2, 1655m|
Start at weakness directly belloe left edge of overlap. Crux is at 3rd RB (can be aided at 23M1). Follow grooves (can use small wires), up to a flake and upper crux.
|3||Learning to Fly||23 M0||35m|
Stick clip required for first FH. This FH is loose, and it is near impossible to stick clip it.
Old deathroute. First pitch now hopelessly entwined in new bolted routes.
|8||Finger Lickin' Awful Alternate Start||12||65m|
|9||Finger Lickin' Awful||16||55m|
Sex, Cigarettes and Chardonnay
Pitch 1: tricky move to gain the slab. 5BR and mid-size friends. Belay below the headwall. Pitch 2: power over the headwall, gingerly cross the slab and crank up the arete. 5BR to friends. (Mountain Quarry mini-guide, © Neil Gledhill 2008)
5 BRs plus natural gear.
|14||Fear in the Face of a Carrot||20||330m,|
Thick Red Line
Start on the left of the thick red band in the rock. Nice easy climb with plenty of GIMBs to two ring bolts 3/4 the way up. Second pitch is short and runout. Could be done in one pitch.
Start at the crack on the arete right of the red band.
|18||Opiate of the Masses||17||1035m,|
Long/Lat: 116.062672, -31.914362
|2||The 2007 Love Handles Tour||19||2, 1255m|
|4||Thin Black Line||16||30m|
|5||Triumph of the Carrot||23||925m,|
|6||Carrots For Rabbits||23||25m|
Follow a series of glued on holds to a slopey start. Leave glued in holds and follow the arete to an exciting finish. All carrot bolts so bring bolt plates.
|9||Luck of the Draw||22||1025m,|
Follow diagonally right trending line of P's across slab then directly up to double P loweroff. 11 P's and 2 P loweroff.
FA: Mike Law
Sport, Unknown and Aid
Long/Lat: 116.062324, -31.914279
- Description:© (hotgemini)
To the R of the Black Bay and a broad gully is a large black buttress.
Green Beret / Razzle Dazzle
Free climb name is Razzle Dazzle
Frustration and Contempt
Weird and slopey. If it seems harder than 16, you are probably doing something wrong
Has nice climbing in it, but deserves an 'R' rating. Medium cams required for overlap and crack at top. Ultimate commitment needed to gain slab as bolt is very high. Typical hard man quarry bolting that requires a life insurance policy.
The Perfidious Potoroo
Follow the FH. Slopey holds and an amusing crux will see you arrive at the anchors.
|5||Land of The Orange Druggie||22||1030m,|
Try and avoid going left onto darker rock at start.
Up arête left of Mortal Wombat. Beware of loose rock at top.
2 bolts to cam placement in vertical crack, 2 more bolts to DBB
Sport and Trad
Long/Lat: 116.061880, -31.914254
- Description:© (hotgemini)
R of the black wall is a steep broken bay about 20 metres high. A dark, shaded bay, it is wet for a good part of the year due to ground water seepage. In summer this area stays shaded which makes it a good choice on hot days.
Climb the line 2 m L of “Crazy Horse”. Interesting moves and very 3D terrain.
FFA: R Weiter & P Thomas, 2010
Route starts 2m right of Turbodiesel Excavator and continues over two overlaps to anchors.
Month of Sundays
FA: Pete Koval
|5||Shake, Rattle & Roll||23||20m|
Natural gear required for top.
|7||Split Personality Direct||17||120m,|
|9||The Ride of the Valkyries||18||825m,|
Long/Lat: 116.061752, -31.914509
- Description:© (hotgemini)
Beyond City Limits Wall is a large rubble fan with a broken buttress on its right, then a less broken section before a classic V-shaped corner, the climb Playboy. There are a couple of easier routes to the left of 'Plantagenet' however they are only for desperados.
10m left of Playboy and 6m up slope. Climb drill hole to ledge. Up and over the next slab, then follow the bolts on the second wall.
Set by Oliver Morell and Jonas Hollingworth, 2013
Slabby route in V-shaped groove. Thin seam provides good pro using nuts and cams. Be careful of loos blocks at bottom, and use good foot work to reach top.
Follow playboy to top slab and trend left to reach bolts
Start 2m left of ‘Penthouse’ on a small white triangle painted on the rock and go straight up the corner onto a blank-looking slab. Climb the first 2 slabs staying left of the bolts then up the right side of slab 3 and traverse left with hands across the top. Move further around the side and up, with a reachy move to finish. 8 RB to DBB. Don’t drop on the heads of climbers on ‘Playboy’. Alternate finish – from the last RB head right and finish at the top of ‘Penthouse’.
FA: J. Hollingworth and O. Morell, 2013
Follow carrots to large block at top, and do interesting moves to reach anchors. To climb at grade 18, stick left of carrots and avoid large jugs to the right.
Same as for Penthouse, but go slightly right at the top, not all the way right. Small/ medium cams can be used to protect the last 4m or so of the climb.
Aerobics with Alan
Great warm up route, or beginner route. Bulge at midway may test some climbers.
Unknown correct name - bolted route between Plantagenet and Black Slab.
|16||Caught in the Act||14||15m|
Really good beginner route.
Straight up to 3rd bolt. Head left to gain the 4th, then a balancy traverse right to the large angled handhold and the top.
Long/Lat: 116.061511, -31.914838
Sustained, technical and insecure layaways up the thin flake on the L side of the wall. Originally aided as Woomera (M1). Reportedly first soloed by an unknown visiting UK climber, then later bolted and repeated by Richardson not knowing of the ascent.
Set by S. Richardson, 1990
Follow line of 3 RB up weakness and into pocketed face to anchor above break. New FHs make this route a little safer.
Set by L. Barber, 2002
On right side of face follow flake lines and drill holes past 5 FH to anchors. Stay off arete at top.
Going for Broker
Climb far right arete, to a tree belay.