Node |
---|
Mountain Quarry
Perth area's premier outdoor climbing crag with a large number of sport and trad climbs, close to the city with good parking. |
Carpark boulders
The large boulder found in the carpark under the Main Wall |
Carpark boulders |
Back Boulder |
V7
Rough Jazz
Sitstart as for smooth jazz sit. Delicately rock left onto the face when you reach the smooth jazz stand holds. |
V3
★ Smooth Jazz
Stand Start The left arete |
V7
★★ Smooth Jazz, sit start
Sit start low on the arete. |
V11/12
★★★ The Full Monty
Still a proj? Sit start left arete as for 'Smooth Jazz, sit start', up to the start jug of Mr Bump, then link right to V-Juice(Stand) holds and finish as for 'Finger Hooks'. Surprising and technical beta, Powerful and hard, and has been linked in two overlapping segments. Power endurance beast |
V10/11
★★ The Half Monty
Sit start as for ‘Smooth Jazz, sit start’, link right via the start of ‘Mr Bump’ to finish as for ‘V-Juice’. Heart breaker finish throw. Bit of a participant award for the full link… |
V5
★ Mr Bump
Pull on under cling and blast for top |
V7
★ Mr Bump Sitstart
Sitstart flake below mr bump. Left heel on a spike to start. Pull on and reach for the start of mr bump. |
V5
★ V-Juice Stand Start
Stand Start then big move up to a V shape feature. |
V6
★★ VJuice left sit
Start sat on same flake as the mr bump sit. Move up and right into VJuice stand. |
V7
★★ V-Juice
Sit start. Hard punchy start sequence, then big move up to a V shape feature. Stand start is V5. |
V8 ★★ Finger Hooks |
V8 ★★★ Casa Blumpkin |
V3
★★ Bumble
Sit Start obvious long hold. Straight up. |
V7
★★ Bumble Juice
Link start of Bumble into V-Juice via crimpy traverse. |
V9
★★ Bumble Blumpkin
Sit start as for 'Bumble'. Reverse the crimpy traverse of 'Finger Hooks' as for 'Bumble Juice' then continue traversing left as for 'Casa Blumpkin' and finish as 'Mr Bump'. Draining! |
V3
High Traverse
Eliminate. Sit start as for Bumble and go left along the obvious high rail. Go all the way to the left area and top out above Mr Bump. |
V3
High and Long Traverse
Extension to High Traverse, starting right at the back of the boulder, traversing on slopers (top of the boulder) and dropping into High Traverse when you reach Mission Ignition. |
V8
★ Mission Ignition
Sit start. Blast up and right. Fucking hard. |
V4/5
★ Mission Erosion
Sit Start Compression on the end of the back boulder. One move wonder + Morpho = Classic? Sit start with hands on the aretes (LH near RH start of Mission Ignition). Slap up using the jugs on Mission Ignition. |
Jumble Boulders |
V3
★ Simon’s Roof
The gravel road into the quarry runs off the carpark on Coulston Road and has a combination-locked gate (normally locked), the code to which can be obtained from the Department of Parks and Wildlife Perth Hills District office (9290 6100). The quarry is also easily accessible on foot from the car park on Coulston Road. Don't leave valuables in your car. |
V4
Simon's Roof Extension
Simon's Roof then keep traversing with little for feet |
V1
Simon's Premature Exit
Straight up from the start of Simons Roof |
V2
★ Production Mine
Traverse right arete and top out left. Maybe a harder project up the left arete |
Right Boulders |
V5
★ Drill Bill
Sit start and straight up on drilled pockets. |
V5
★★ Manufactured Madness
Sit Start as drilled, traverse right on pockets over to the right edge, and then up. |
6C
★ Tight hole
From the sit get both pockets and head straight up via a hidden hold on the shelf and a slap for the top. |
V3
★ Pocket Rocket
Sit start in pockets. Up using slopers and arete. |
V4 Quarry Classic |
V0
★ Right Boulder #1
Sit start matched on the edge on the small right arete. |
V1
★ Right Boulder #2
Sit start on the large flat ledge and throw up and right. |
V6
Right Boulder #2b
Sit start as #2 on the flat ledge and make awkward moves to gain edges out and left. Trend left to top. |
V6
Right Boulder Traverse, sit start
Sit start and climb #2b, then once you gain the good edges out left, continue traversing left to finish as for Right Boulder Traverse. Full value/pumpy finish. |
V4
★★ Right Boulder Traverse
The classic traverse on this boulder. Stand start on good edges and trend left along the obvious rails. Once you reach the end of the long rail, move straight up to the lip and top out. |
V5
★ Right Boulder #3
Sit start, left hand crimp and right hand on the vague arete. |
V4
★★ Right Boulder Dyno
Dyno from the lower flat ledge to the top |
V4
Ankle-Biter
Sit start using the pocket on the left face and the inner edge of the crack. Work your way up the crack, before using creative footwork to gain a position which allows you to start traversing the edges to the right. |
V5
★ Crack Vert
Up the right aerate without dabbing the left of the crack , trend left to sloper corner, then up left aerate |
V0
★ Right Boulder #4
Sit start the carck. |
V7
★★ Right Boulder #5
Start in the two pockets on the right of the overhang. Slap to the lip and top out. |
V8
★★ Right Boulder #6
Sit start right hand in the left most of the two pockets and left hand small crimp. Big move to the lip. Robin (Last problem in the video) |
Silly Slab |
V2
Silly Slab
Follow the thin seam up the right side of the slab. Walk off left once you reach the mud! Could definitely do with a clean. |
V1
★ Squid
Given a route grade in "The Guide" - 10 |
V0
Pilchards
Given a route grade in "The Guide" - 7 |
V1
★ Whale
Given a route grade in "The Guide" - 10 Up the easy slab. Finish at the break and top out in the corner |
V0+
★ Fishpaste
Given a route grade in "The Guide" - 8 |
VB
Minnow
Given a route grade in "The Guide" - 3 |
VB
Monger
Given a route grade in "The Guide" - 3 |
V1
White Pointer
Given a route grade in "The Guide" - 11 |
V1
Fishing Line
Given a route grade in "The Guide" - 12 |
Woomera Wall
The gravel road into the quarry runs off the carpark on Coulston Road and has a combination-locked gate (normally locked), the code to which can be obtained from the Department of Parks and Wildlife Perth Hills District office (9290 6100). The quarry is also easily accessible on foot from the car park on Coulston Road. Don't leave valuables in your car. |
Woomera Wall |
Additional Information JUNE 2019
Rain over the week of the 10th to 14th June 2019 resulted in the loss of "City Limits", "Clam Hooker" and the lower 2m of the "Project". Archiving Routes function is not yet available but is coming soon to the Crag |
23
★★ City Limits
Due to rain during 10th to 14th June 2019 “City Limits” has fallen down. This climb no longer exists. The climb used to be sustained, technical and insecure layaways up the thin flake on the L side of the wall. Originally aided as Woomera (M1). Reportedly first soloed by an unknown visiting UK climber, then later bolted and repeated by Richardson not knowing of the ascent. |
Project
Due to a large amount of rain over the week of the 10th June 2019 to 14th June 2019 the route “Project” has lost the lower 2m of the route. |
C2
★★ Clam Hooker
Due to rain during 10th to 14th June 2019 the crack that made “Clam Hooker” has fallen out. This climb no longer exists. The obvious left trending $2 slot crack right of City Limits. Dissects the first two bolts of Chris Jones’ 1999 project. Take two cam hooks and some micro cams, and have a blast. |
28
★★ Space Monkey
Follow line of 3 RB up weakness and into pocketed face to anchor above break. New FHs make this route a little safer. |
Project.
The gravel road into the quarry runs off the carpark on Coulston Road and has a combination-locked gate (normally locked), the code to which can be obtained from the Department of Parks and Wildlife Perth Hills District office (9290 6100). The quarry is also easily accessible on foot from the car park on Coulston Road. Don't leave valuables in your car. |
27
★★ Choad Warrior
On right side of face follow flake lines and drill holes past 5 FH to anchors. Stay off arete at top. |
19 X
Going for Broker
Climb far right arete, to a tree belay. |
Playboy Area
Beyond City Limits Wall is a large rubble fan with a broken buttress on its right, then a less broken section before a classic V-shaped corner, the climb Playboy. There are a couple of easier routes to the left of 'Plantagenet' however they are only for desperados. |
Playboy Area |
9
Peas
The Guide 2nd Edition (1995): Start on the left side of the small triangular buttress. Climb the left side of the buttress then scramble to the steep broken wall. Travel up a dirty line of weakness and then scramble to top. Perth Rock 1st Edition (1996): Another chossy scramble. |
10
Potatoes
The Guide 2nd Edition (1995): Start at the right edge of triangular buttress. Up groove to top of buttress then right up small chimney and ramp. Move left onto the right end of the broken wall, climb wall and then scramble to top. Perth Rock 1st Edition (1996): The chossy scramble. |
22
★ Playmate
10m left of Playboy and 6m up slope. Climb drill hole to ledge. Up and over the next slab, then follow the bolts on the second wall. |
21
★ Playmate Direct
The gravel road into the quarry runs off the carpark on Coulston Road and has a combination-locked gate (normally locked), the code to which can be obtained from the Department of Parks and Wildlife Perth Hills District office (9290 6100). The quarry is also easily accessible on foot from the car park on Coulston Road. Don't leave valuables in your car. |
14
Plantaganet
Start 3m left of the V-shaped corner. Up broken corner then keep right on the rock to below overhanging corner. Up this using detached block to gain corner above. Continue to top via the left side of the steep wall above. |
17
★★ Playboy
Slabby route in V-shaped groove. Thin seam provides good pro using nuts and cams. Be careful of loos blocks at bottom, and use good foot work to reach top. |
19
★★ Playboy Variant
Follow playboy to top slab and trend left to reach bolts |
21
★ Hustler
Start 2m left of ‘Penthouse’ on a small white triangle painted on the rock and go straight up the corner onto a blank-looking slab. Climb the first 2 slabs staying left of the bolts then up the right side of slab 3 and traverse left with hands across the top. Move further around the side and up, with a reachy move to finish. 8 RB to DBB. Don’t drop on the heads of climbers on ‘Playboy’. Alternate finish – from the last RB head right and finish at the top of ‘Penthouse’. |
18
★ Penthouse
Follow carrots to large block at top, and do interesting moves to reach anchors. To climb at grade 18, stick left of carrots and avoid large jugs to the right. |
18
Not the Wurst! (Link Up)
A long traverse on existing climbs. Starting from the base of Penthouse, traverse diagonally right all the way across the wall up to the ring bolts of ‘Bumble Sea’. There are about 10 bolts, but with quite a run-out in the middle under the large blast-hole. If you want to, use a long sling (3 metres) and the the bolt in the blast-hole and then come down again. Maybe I’ll put a bolt in someday… Crux is the last few moves from about the Bumble Aye line up to the ring-bolts, about grade 18 if you keep in the direct line and don’t wimp out and use the stuff right in the corner. ‘Not the Wurst!’ 40 m, grade 18, Phillip and Tracy, and Andvariousothers shouting comments…errr… encouragement in the background. |
16
★★ Left edge
Same as for Penthouse, but go slightly right at the top, not all the way right. Small/ medium cams can be used to protect the last 4m or so of the climb. |
14
★ Smallminded
A climb that has no doubt seen a few "first ascents" yet never seemed to make it into a guidebook. As a result it has a few names and descriptions. Equipped with a lower off in 2021(?). 2020 Description: "Start at the base of LE staying between LE & AWA following the right trending crack. Takes a range of bomber wire nuts, no cams required. Top out over loose rock. Down climb to anchors for AWA & lower off. 2014 Description: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/a-wee-bit-of-fun-on-the-black-wall-at-stathams/ There is a thin crack running between Penthouse/Left Edge and Aerobics with Alan that is an entertaining exercise in placing tiny gear and minor runouts. There doesn’t seem to be a write up on it, and is probably a solo from the 60s/70s or one of those lines that have periodically been done but not written up. Does anyone know its history? We climbed it for a laugh at the end of a session. Start up as for PH. Clipping the first bolt might be a good idea, if only to lessen the chance of unzipping. Head slightly right on to the crack and merrily fiddle about with micro nuts, RPs and small nuts and cams while perched on the numerous edges. Follow the crack all the way up until it peters out, then continue straight up the face and top out pretty much where LE goes. Belay off the small trees on top. Watch out for the dead ones. Easy climbing, somewhere about 12-14, with the little gear keeping the interest up. If it doesn’t already have a name, Smallminded. Comments on grade? A Separovic and R Wainright 2014 2013 Ascent: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/some-new-routes-for-perth-quarries/ |
15
★ Aerobics with Alan
Great warm up route, or beginner route. Bulge at midway may test some climbers. |
14
★ Unknown
The gravel road into the quarry runs off the carpark on Coulston Road and has a combination-locked gate (normally locked), the code to which can be obtained from the Department of Parks and Wildlife Perth Hills District office (9290 6100). The quarry is also easily accessible on foot from the car park on Coulston Road. Don't leave valuables in your car. |
12
★ Black Slab
The gravel road into the quarry runs off the carpark on Coulston Road and has a combination-locked gate (normally locked), the code to which can be obtained from the Department of Parks and Wildlife Perth Hills District office (9290 6100). The quarry is also easily accessible on foot from the car park on Coulston Road. Don't leave valuables in your car. |
10
★ Player
The gravel road into the quarry runs off the carpark on Coulston Road and has a combination-locked gate (normally locked), the code to which can be obtained from the Department of Parks and Wildlife Perth Hills District office (9290 6100). The quarry is also easily accessible on foot from the car park on Coulston Road. Don't leave valuables in your car. |
14
★ Red Back
The gravel road into the quarry runs off the carpark on Coulston Road and has a combination-locked gate (normally locked), the code to which can be obtained from the Department of Parks and Wildlife Perth Hills District office (9290 6100). The quarry is also easily accessible on foot from the car park on Coulston Road. Don't leave valuables in your car. |
14
★ Caught in the Act
The gravel road into the quarry runs off the carpark on Coulston Road and has a combination-locked gate (normally locked), the code to which can be obtained from the Department of Parks and Wildlife Perth Hills District office (9290 6100). The quarry is also easily accessible on foot from the car park on Coulston Road. Don't leave valuables in your car. |
13
★ Paternity Test
The gravel road into the quarry runs off the carpark on Coulston Road and has a combination-locked gate (normally locked), the code to which can be obtained from the Department of Parks and Wildlife Perth Hills District office (9290 6100). The quarry is also easily accessible on foot from the car park on Coulston Road. Don't leave valuables in your car. |
10
★ First Date
Really good beginner route. |
17
★ Bumble Aye
Straight up to 3rd bolt. Head left to gain the 4th, then a balancy traverse right to the large angled handhold and the top. |
16
★ Bumble Bee
The second bolt requires a 90 degree bolt plate (a 45 will slip right off when you climb above it). |
13
★ Bumble Sea
The gravel road into the quarry runs off the carpark on Coulston Road and has a combination-locked gate (normally locked), the code to which can be obtained from the Department of Parks and Wildlife Perth Hills District office (9290 6100). The quarry is also easily accessible on foot from the car park on Coulston Road. Don't leave valuables in your car. |
16
★ Why, why not
This is a Girdle! Start as Bumble Sea heading left upwards direction to DDB of Black Slab, then traverse to finish first pitch on Left Edge. Second pitch topout to the abseil boulders |
The Black Bay
R of the black wall is a steep broken bay about 20 metres high. A dark, shaded bay, it is wet for a good part of the year due to ground water seepage. In summer this area stays shaded which makes it a good choice on hot days. |
The Black Bay |
22
★ Shut 'em Down
The right edge of the blank wall. Steep, overhanging, and so rewarding when you get it! |
18
★ Motherlode
4m L of Turbodiesel Excavator and 2m R of Shut 'em Down. Start is the crux, then follow the inverted staircase past 4 ringbolts to lower-offs. |
19
★ Turbodiesel Excavator
Climb the line 2 m L of “Crazy Horse”. Interesting moves and very 3D terrain. |
22
★ Crazy Horse
Route starts 2m right of Turbodiesel Excavator and continues over two overlaps to anchors. |
19
★ Aquaterra
4m R of Crazy Horse and 2m L of Vombatia. Steep, gym-like climbing which will make you work for an on-sight. 5 ringbolts to lower-offs. |
24
★ Vombatia
Start up loose rock left of first bolt (optional stick clip). Pass 2nd bolt with a hard move. Dyno through the roof (although it’s not the only way). Tricky moves with the anchor at you nose. Best clipped when you reach the jugs above. |
25
★ Month of Sundays
Start below bolt (hanger required) and move right to FH (long draw to reduce drag) then delicately move back left to gain black slab. Hard moves up to groove and continue to small that takes gear. |
24
★★ Monday Weak
Climb the aesthetic face on small holds. Starts 1m right of Month of Sundays. Follow bolts to DBB (hangers) below the roof. The FA was a culmination of much frustration, the purloining of red tape and the likely theft of my socks by a frog. The starting moves are easy, before some high stepping and reach testing is required. Then there is a spot of extra strong gravity, just before the angle eases and an anchor appears. |
23
Shake, Rattle & Roll
The gravel road into the quarry runs off the carpark on Coulston Road and has a combination-locked gate (normally locked), the code to which can be obtained from the Department of Parks and Wildlife Perth Hills District office (9290 6100). The quarry is also easily accessible on foot from the car park on Coulston Road. Don't leave valuables in your car. |
21
★ Split Personality
Follow four ring bolts through a significant traverse. Gear is required to use natural protection above the third bolt (0.5 to 1" cams in the cracks work well). No lower-offs. Start at a thin flake crack on the right-hand side of Black Bay. Up crack past two ring bolts to obvious hand traverse and another ring bolt. Continue left to a small ledge and a hard move to a stance and another bolt, up a wall and into a large alcove. Through the overhanging crack on perfect finger locks to finish. Natural gear is required for the top section. |