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Access issues inherited from Mt Alexander

Most of Mt. Alexander is a national park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are not permitted, ask before bolting, etc.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 Ebb And Flow Sport 8m, 3

Start on fallen over log, up obvious crack to direct finish up and over, don't go around the arete. May need to place a directional if top-roping to avoid whipping into tree.

FA: Neil Monteith, Kent Paterson & Ti, 2005

2
21 * McDogs Unknown 15m
3
19 ** Dick McGinty Trad 15m
4
22 * Old Habits Unknown 15m
5
24 *** Scottish Reign Trad 15m
6
14 Culloden Trad 6m

Right of 'Scottish Reign', climb the flexing hollow flake to the ledge.

7
14 Ecosse Trad 6m
9
16 Elsie Trad 10m
10

Up the arete above the bouldering slabs, past 2 bolts and tree branch (sling). Double bolt belay towards the back of the block.

11
V6 Mother and Child Boulder

Climb the wall and right arete just right of the bouldering slabs. Stand start.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 2012

12
18 * Braveheart Trad 10m
13
17 Tartan Unknown 10m
14
22 Tam O'Shanter Unknown 8m
15
14 Jewellery Unknown 12m
16
10 Chimney Corner Trad 10m
17
7 The Kennel Trad 15m
18
27 Finger Food Unknown 15m
19
29 Stone Cold Bush Unknown 15m
20

Traverse the sloping boulder from right to left, starting matched on the rail and finish with a mantle on the god holds out on the far left hand side.

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 19th Jan

FA: Peter Reynolds, 19th Jan

21

Directly climb the wall right of Arlo's Arete. Do not use the right arete either. Crux at the top. Solo after top rope.

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 19th Jan

FA: Peter Reynolds, 19th Jan

22
22 * Arlo's Arete Trad 6m

Climb the arete of 'Severn Tide' on its right-hand side to a tricky sloping finish. Solo after top rope.

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 2014

FA: Peter Reynolds, 2014

23
25 ** Severn Tide Trad 7m

The beautiful arete right of Mobile Phone (at least I think it is Mobile Phone!) taken on its left-hand side. Solo after top rope. No bolts or gear. Named after the River Severn.

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 2014

FA: Peter Reynolds, 2014

24
25 ** The Descendants Trad 7m

Located on the wall around the corner left of Mobile Phone. Climb the seam to the break (crux) then traverse left before finishing up the final crack. Soloed after top roping. The first seam to the break is a highball boulder problem at around V6. Soloed on the FA but could be done on gear - gear after the crux though.

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 2014

FA: Peter Reynolds, 2014

25
19 * Mobile Phone Unknown 8m
26
V3 Golden Evening Boulder 4m

Up the beautiful arete opposite The Descendants. Can be done from both sides. A sit start is also available.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 2012

27
18 Semantics Unknown 18m
28
21 * Modern Logic Trad 20m
29
25 ** Mo Money Unknown 20m
30
25 Rumours Unknown 15m
31
20 Painless Sport 10m, 3
32
7 Unnamed Trad 10m
33
17 Mercy Sport 6m, 2
34
14 Fido Trad 10m
35
15 Sporran Trad 10m
36
12 Rover Trad 10m
37
18 Kilt Trad 10m
38
16 Spot Trad 10m
39
16 Haggis Trad 6m
40
12 Black Pudding Unknown 6m
41
42
22 ** Jack Russel Trad 20m
43
13 Fleece Unknown 6m
44
15 My Black Sheep Sport 8m
45
15 Waiting For Sam Unknown 8m
46
21 ** Little Bo Peep Sport 10m
47
26 The Corner of Discontent Sport 10m, 3

Square cut corner uphill from LBP and visible through the gully left of that route. Easy to ledge then boulder corner (bout V6) past 3 rings/Us (cant remember). Bolted by KP.

FA: 2012

48
23 Up The Bracket Unknown 8m

rock on over

FA: kp & nmonteith, 2005

49
25 Money Talks Unknown 20m
50
15 Black Sheep Unknown 8m
51
12 Knife In The Cheese Unknown 6m

Climb begins 4m left of Fido follows horizontal break to arete then up.

FA: Paul McWaters & Rigel Butler

53
20 Heroin Is So Passe Sport 6m, 1

Thin face with a single fixed hanger at about 4m.

FA: kp, nmonteith & ti, 2005