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Access issues inherited from Mt Alexander

Most of Mt. Alexander is a national park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are not permitted, ask before bolting, etc.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V3 Mandarin Boulder

On the left up the hillside as you walk to the Scottish Reign amphitheatre from the car park. Sit start and head up the groove.

2

This takes the arete right of Mandarin from a sit start

3
20 * Ebb And Flow Sport 8m, 3

Start on fallen over log, up obvious crack to direct finish up and over, don't go around the arete. May need to place a directional if top-roping to avoid whipping into tree.

FA: Neil Monteith, Kent Paterson & Ti, 2005

4
21 ** McDogs Trad 15m
5
19 ** Dick McGinty Trad 15m
6
22 * Old Habits Trad 15m
7
24 ** Scottish Reign Trad 15m
8
16 ** Jakobite Mixed 15m, 1

Much easier than it looks and really good climbing at the grade. Beware of your rope catching around the bottom of the flake. Up the first few metres of "Culloden". Clip the FH, then step across L and up to the flake. Undercling L and around into the final crack on "Scottish Reign". Scramble off R or pull over the top.

FA: Greg Caire & Glenn Tempest, 2011

9
14 Culloden Trad 6m

Right of 'Scottish Reign', climb the flexing hollow flake to the ledge.

10
9 Ecosse Trad 6m
12
16 Elsie Trad 7m

It may be short but this little crack is actually worth roping up for. The L-leaning finger-crack 4m R of "Ecosse" is fairly tricky.

13

Up the arete above the bouldering slabs, past 2 bolts and tree branch (sling). Double bolt belay towards the back of the block.

14
V6 Mother and Child Boulder

Climb the wall and right arete just right of the bouldering slabs. Stand start.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2012

15
18 * Braveheart Trad 10m
16
17 Tartan Unknown 10m
17
22 Tam O'Shanter Unknown 8m
18
14 Jewellery Trad 12m
19
10 * Chimney Corner Trad 10m
20
7 * The Kennel Trad 15m
21
V7 Julian's Problem Boulder

Climb the wall left of Finger Food to top out. High

FA: Julian Saunders

22
27 Finger Food Unknown 15m
23
29 Stone Cold Bush Sport 15m
24
18 ** Semantics Trad 18m
25
21 ** Modern Logic Mixed 20m, 2
26
25 ** Mo Money Unknown 20m, 3
27
25 Rumours Unknown 15m
28
20 * Painless Sport 10m, 3
29

Located to the right of the path when you approach Dog Rocks. Traverse the sloping boulder from right to left, starting matched on the rail and finish with a mantle on the god holds out on the far left hand side. A touch stiff?

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 2015

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2015

30

Start from the high fallen slab left of The Descendants and stretch left into the corner to a good hold. Finish from here on good holds. A strange but good route.

31
25 ** The Descendants Trad 7m

Located on the wall around the corner left of Mobile Phone. Climb the seam to the break (crux) then traverse left before finishing up the final crack. Soloed after top roping. The first seam to the break is a highball boulder problem at around V6. Soloed on the FA but could be done on gear - gear after the crux though.

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 2014

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2014

32
19 * Mobile Phone Unknown 8m
33
25 ** Severn Tide Trad 7m

The beautiful arete right of Mobile Phone taken on its left-hand side. Solo after top rope. No bolts or gear. Named after the River Severn.

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 2014

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2014

34
22 * Arlo's Arete Trad 6m

Climb the arete of 'Severn Tide' on its right-hand side to a tricky sloping finish. Solo after top rope.

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 2014

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2014

35
24 * Sadie's Saunter Trad 6m

Directly climb the wall right of Arlo's Arete. Do not use the right arete either. Crux at the top. Solo after top rope.

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 2015

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2015

36
V3 ** Golden Evening Boulder 4m

Up the beautiful arete opposite The Descendants. Can be done from both sides. A sit start is also available.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 2012

37
V2 Jump Off! Boulder

Climb the crack and arete to top out.

38
V5 Back on the horse Boulder

Traverse the horizontal crack from left to right, and top out.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 2013

39
V3 Seam to Slope Boulder

Near the Rover...etc slab. Stand start and move from a seam to a slope. Top out.

40
7 Unnamed Trad 10m
41
17 * Mercy Sport 6m, 2
42
14 * Fido Trad 10m

FFA: Max Keating & Karen Keating, 1992

43
15 Sporran Trad 10m
44
12 * Rover Trad 10m

FFA: Max Keating & Karen Keating, 1992

45
18 Kilt Trad 10m
46
16 Spot Trad 10m
47
16 Haggis Trad 6m
48
12 Black Pudding Trad 6m
49
50
22 ** Jack Russel Mixed 20m, 1
51
13 Fleece Unknown 6m
52
15 * My Black Sheep Sport 8m, 3
53
15 * Waiting For Sam Sport 8m, 2
54
V2 Graceful Dancer Boulder
55
21 ** Little Bo Peep Sport 10m, 3
56
26 * The Corner of Discontent Sport 10m, 3

Square cut corner uphill from LBP and visible through the gully left of that route. Easy to ledge then boulder corner (bout V6) past 3 rings/Us (cant remember). Bolted by KP.

FA: 2012

57
23 * Up The Bracket Sport 8m, 3

rock on over

FA: kp & nmonteith, 2005

58
25 Money Talks Unknown 20m
59
15 Black Sheep Unknown 8m
60
12 * Knife In The Cheese Unknown 6m

Climb begins 4m left of Fido follows horizontal break to arete then up.

FA: Paul McWaters & Rigel Butler

62
20 Heroin Is So Passe Sport 6m, 1

Thin face with a single fixed hanger at about 4m.

FA: kp, nmonteith & ti, 2005

63
V5 The Dyke Boulder

An obvious great looking problem up a dyke feature. Located on a lone boulder north of Dog Rocks close to summit trail – don’t stack pads – much easier if above 6 ft tall. Easy finish.

64
V4 Squeezer Boulder 3m

Squeezer by name and nature. As for SM but uses small sharp ear for left hand instead of crack crimp. Quite a bit easier than SMs first move.

65
V6 Squeeze Machine Boulder

Eliminate line near the arete to the right of The Dyke using a right-hand sidepull and left-hand crack-crimp to reach crimps/slopers, and then move left to jugs and top out. No arête on right.

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