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Routes in Scorpion Rocks

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Showing all 43 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
V8 The Shining Wall

At the far left of Scorpion rocks right on the Goldfields Track. Stand-start and climb the gorgeous steep slab. Move slightly right at the start, but then head back left using a small powerful undercut. Finish direct up the right side of the nose - don't use the crack/holds left of the nose. A great climb.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 11 Nov 2019

Boulder
V8 Fire Escape

Same start as for The Shining Wall, but at the nose head left and finish up the crack on the other side of the nose. Both climbs share the same powerful crux but Fire Escape takes an easier finish.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 11 Nov 2019

Boulder
V2 Boardman-Tasker

Sit-start and climb the arete left of The Shining Wall.

FA: Charlie Creese & sit start Peter Reynolds

Boulder
V2 Savage Arena

Sit-start and climb the arete behind The Shining Wall boulder. Follow the arete all the way up and left as it flattens out.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 11 Nov 2019

Boulder
V2 The Hillary Step

Awkward to get started, then a lazy highball to the top

FA: Athol Whimp, 2006

Boulder
18 A Sting in the Tail

The name says it all. Finger-size layback crack leading to an awkward pull over the top.

FA: Chris Cope & Mick Jaeger, 1993

Unknown 7m
20 Left leaning tendencies

The obvious left-hand sloping crack, sustained.

FA: Phil Robertson & Phil Robertson

Trad 12m
23 B1 (toprope slab L of Undercling Flake)
Unknown 10m
22 Death On The Stairs

Launch off log into sustained insecure moves. Best route on wall.

Sport 10m, 4
21 Poised to Strike

Originally lead from the ground. Now easier off the fallen tree. Lovely sustained smearing and “dime-sized” edges lead past 4BRs.

FA: Chris Cope & Mick Jaeger

Sport 12m, 4
20 Barbed Wire

Start 4m left of Poised To Strike. Quiver your way past 2 carrot bolts on excellent fine-grained granite.

FA: Nick de Kam, 2004

Sport 10m, 2
18 Psuedocorp

Directly above SANDBAGGERS WALL is an amazing square cut quartz seam. This is the very short crack in the overhanging roof starting off blocks.

FA: Phil & Clare Robertson, 1992

Trad 7m
15 Stay Perfectly Still

Crack in the middle of a small boulder. Difficult jam start. Anchor off solid tree branches on top.

FA: Chris Cope & Phil Robertson

Trad 6m
18 Pincer Crack

Nice crack climb with a difficult jamming start. It relents quickly to enjoyable jams and layaways on smooth granite.

FA: Sam North & Jim Small, 2000

Trad 12m
29 The Arete (open project)
Unknown 10m
25 I'll Stick Around

I’ll Stick Around 12m 24 Superb thin face, with a delicate crux. 3FHs (1st and 3rd require small ‘biners)

FA: Kent Paterson; kp, 2000

Unknown 12m, 3
23 Sustain the Pain

Very sustained crimping on edges and small pockets. 3FHs

FA: Kent Paterson, 2003

Sport 12m, 3
24 Territorial Pissings

A sharp little testpiece that required a lot of effort before the FA fell. 3FHs (the 1st requires a small 'biner). The 3rd clip is desperate and a long pre-placed draw is recommended.

FA: Kent Paterson

Unknown 10m, 3
22 Kula Shaker

A good introduction to the thin pocketed face climbing featured on this wall. Start as Territorial Pissings (1 FH requires small 'biner) trending right past 2 FHs.

FA: KP & Al Rob, 2004

Unknown 10m, 2
25 Parklife

FA: Kent Paterson; kp, 2005

Unknown 10m
23 Gravity Grave

FA: kp & douglas hockly

Sport 15m
V6 Acquiesce

The brother to Live Forever. Sit start at the jugs on the left hand side and traverse right and up to finish up the mantle of Live Forever. Really good.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 9 Apr 2015

Boulder
V4 Live Forever

Sit start and traverse leftwards to a tricky finish.

Boulder 6m
V8 A Northern Soul

Sit-start and climb up the overhang to the slot at the top of the feature. Great quality rock. An unusual style of climb for Mt Alex.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 19 Apr 2015

Boulder
V8 Don't Tell A Soul

Sit start with opposing side pulls. Compress your way up using kneebars and finish matched on slot. All holds on this block are in.

FA: Ashton Miller, 30 Jul 2022

Boulder 3m
V5 Squamishy

5m right of A Northern Soul. Starting matched low on the blunt arete with foot up on the left arete jug. Work up and left to top out.

FA: Matt Hoschke

Boulder
V7 Butterfly Kick

Height dependent kick up to the massive side-ledge, then press mantle. Start hands matched on the blunt arete.

FA: Matt hoschke

Boulder
V0 The Nose

Located approximately 5 mins along the path from Scorpion Rocks towards Dog Rocks. Climb the arete.

FA: Ashley Sankey

Boulder
V5 The Leaning

Located approximately 5 mins along the path from Scorpion Rocks towards Dog Rocks. Sit-start and head up and left via small holds.

Boulder
V8 Lucky Man

Located approximately 5 mins along the path from Scorpion Rocks towards Dog Rocks. Sit-start right of The Leaning and make a long move to a crimp with your right. Move up to a left crimp and then out to a small right pocket. From here, move left to the arête and top out around it. An easier variation heads to the left arete after the first move.

Boulder
V0 Central Crack

Inside the split boulder, climb the central crack/groove feature.

FA: Ashley Sankey

Boulder
V2 Porcelain

Located approximately 5 mins along the path from Scorpion Rocks towards Dog Rocks. Match the sloper and top out.

Boulder
V1 Velvet Morning

Located approximately 5 mins along the path from Scorpion Rocks towards Dog Rocks. Up face from sitting.

Boulder
Pan

Climb the left arete/crack without the side wall.

Unknown
Jimmy Corkscrew

Climb the slab between Pan and Hook.

Unknown
Hook

Climb the right arete.

Unknown
Gentleman Starkey

Stand-start and climb the face.

Unknown
V1 Holiday in Gogarth

As the name implies. Up the loose line of holds. Sit-start.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 8 Apr 2020

Unknown
V0 Stained Glass

Sit-start and climb the checkerboard feature. No arete.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 8 Apr 2020

Unknown
V0 Corona Via Us

Sit-start and climb the right arete of the checkerboard feature.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 8 Apr 2020

Unknown
V1 Bones in the broth

Sit-start and climb the nice slab direct.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 8 Apr 2020

Unknown
V3 Taming of the Shrew

Sit-start (don't use the medium sized mossy block in front of you for your hands or feet) and go out to the nose, up and left to finish with a rock-over using a good foothold out left. Nice moves but loose grains on the surface.

FA: 8 Apr 2020

Unknown
V1 Sit start superstar

Sit start with hands matched on good edge. Top out.

Boulder is to be found above the main section of Scorpion Rocks.

Boulder 0m

Showing all 43 routes.

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