The First Cave All sport climbing20 routes in cliff
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For a long time this sported only one route - Los Hermanos de la Denitente. Then this cave was discovered by Graeme Hill and Mark Woodard and several stiff sporty routes in the low to mid 20s where added. More recently, Simon Vaughan and Gavin Murray have added a couple more routes. Los Hermanos de la Denitente and Biafra can be attempted in the pouring rain.
The first route you come to. Tricky start then nice moves thru bulge without using the cave. Then a walk to the anchors.
FA: Simon Vaughan & L. Robinson, 2001
Looks OK, but everyone says its crap. Get on it, and judge for yourself. Hard to clean, best to get someone to 2nd it.
Start: Start: 2m left of SE
A nice line, a bit tricky to clip the 2nd bolt. Up past 5 RBs to U anchor lower off. Stiff at 20 (could be 21), but guess who bolted it ?
Start: Start: Behind Tree
FA: Mark Woodard, 1997
Hard at the grade, but nevertheless another fantastic offering by Mr Woodward. Left of DoaNCS, below crack. Up to crack (crux) then
up and right to jug. Out roof on jugs to glory. 3 RBs
(2nd is hard to clip), clip double RB anchor on lip then
continue up and right to lower off as for DoaNCS.
FA: Mark Woodard, 1998
Straight up with difficulty down low then fly through the super roof
Set by Mark Farrell
FFA: Thomas Farrell
FA: Thomas Farrell, 2013