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Table of contents

1. The First Cave 21 routes in Cliff

All Sport

For a long time this sported only one route - Los Hermanos de la Denitente. Then this cave was discovered by Graeme Hill and Mark Woodard and several stiff sporty routes in the low to mid 20s where added. More recently, Simon Vaughan and Gavin Murray have added a couple more routes. Los Hermanos de la Denitente and Biafra can be attempted in the pouring rain.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Snuffs Enuff

The first route you come to. Tricky start then nice moves thru bulge without using the cave. Then a walk to the anchors.

FA: Simon Vaughan, L. Robinson, 2001

19 Sport 12m
2 Dancing with Deborah

Looks OK, but everyone says its crap. Get on it, and judge for yourself. Hard to clean, best to get someone to 2nd it.

Start: Start: 2m left of SE

23 Sport 12m
3 * Last Stand

Clip 1st bolt of DOANCS, surmount the bulge,move right to mini arete, clip bolt then move into litte closed corner then up through steepness to anchors. As for 'Death Of A New Car Salesman' Bouldery crux around the mini arete to steep climbing on pockets and jugs

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

22 Sport 12m, 5
4 Death of a New Car Salesman

A nice line, a bit tricky to clip the 2nd bolt. Up past 5 RBs to U anchor lower off. Stiff at 20 (could be 21), but guess who bolted it ?

Start: Start: Behind Tree

FA: Mark Woodard, 1997

20 Sport 10m
5 * Progress Comes to Shitsville

Hard at the grade, but nevertheless another fantastic offering by Mr Woodward. Left of DoaNCS, below crack. Up to crack (crux) then

up and right to jug. Out roof on jugs to glory. 3 RBs

(2nd is hard to clip), clip double RB anchor on lip then

continue up and right to lower off as for DoaNCS.

Sustained !

FA: Mark Woodard, 1998

22 Sport 10m
6 ** Shot of Spirit

Straight up with difficulty down low then fly through the super roof

Set by Mark Farrell

FFA: Thomas Farrell

FA: Thomas Farrell, 2013

28 Sport 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 * Electric Gut Stick Gobblers Extension / Party Hat

Excellent sustained route with a technical start and a pumpy steep finish. Climb Electric Gut Stick Gobblers past 4 RBs to horizontal jug under roof, then out right on reachy mega pockets through roof to final move left to big plate and anchor. Watch your butt on the last move, if you fall off you land on the nearby tree!

FA: Andy (who?), 2006

25 Sport 15m, 6
8 ** Electric Gut Stick Gobblers

Graeme reckons it 22, but the locals reckon its aleast 24. Start: Left of PCtS, below round feature.

Up into closed corner and up. Move left and out to double RB on LHdlD.

FA: Graeme Hill, 1998

24 Sport 10m
9 *** Los Hermanos de la Denitente

The Crag Classic !! Solid and sustained wall climbing on good holds. Stand up on tree stump, and power all the way thru to roof. Shake out here and show off with a french blow - punch the roof and into the cave, then move up right wards to clip the anchors.

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

23 Sport 10m
10 ** Los Hermanos de la Denitente Extension

Clip one of the double rings of LHDLD as a BR and pump right to the anchors. If you clip a long draw at the anchors or stand in the tree you haven't done it

FA: Graeme Hill, 1998

24 Sport 15m
11 Top Hat / Top Hat (Biafra Extention)

From the anchors on 'Biafra', keep on truckin' past 2 more RBs thru the roof to finish on big jugs and lower offs.

FA: Andy, 2006

26 Sport 16m
12 *** Biafra

Next to trees near left edge of cave. Use your squiddy (or stick) to clip first RB, then bouldery, powerful moves to a good rest at 3rd RB. Hard moves to 4th RB then EZ steep territory to double RB lower off. 6 RBs in total.

FA: Cameron Breeze, 1999

FA: Cameron Breeze, 1999

26 Sport 12m
13 * Bruised Poonarnee

Start between B an G. Trick start then up flake to break. Then as per G to anchors.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2008

21 Sport 14m
14 Jello

As for G, but traverse right after 4th RB on G past a RB and clip the last RB on B, then upto anchors. Good way to get the gear on 'Biafra'.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2006

21 Sport 14m
15 ** Galvanise

Start 3m left of B. Nice route or good warmup for the harder stuff in the cave. Stays dry in pouring rain. 5 RB to Lower Offs.

FA: Jason Lammers & Steve Hawkshaw, 2006

20 Sport 10m
16 * The Nose in 4 Minutes

Clip 1st bolt then streno start past 2nd bolt, then blistfull balancey moves past several more RB to anchors. For full value do the extension all that way to top of cliff.

FA: Simon Vaughan, Gavin Murray, 2004

22 Sport 9m
17 The Nose in 4 Minutes - Extension

From the anchors on tNi4m, keep on going thru overhung territory and up to anchors on left.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2008

24 Sport 16m
18 * Rooster

Start up Chook, then move right before the break (long draw here) then pull on to crimpy headwall. Then easily up to anchors...

FA: Jason Lammers, 2008

25 Sport 16m
19 * Chook

New FHs in 2000 replaced some only manky bolts. Now a fantastic excursion. Undercut start, then slab to sustained head wall. 5 FHs to lower off.

20 Sport 16m
20 Chicken

4 RB to join 'Chook' at the headwall

Start: Start 4m L of 'Chook' below RB's

FA: Simon Vaughan

20 Sport 16m
21 Galvanized Vari

To the right of G . Undercling to high reach then link ring bolts back into top of Galvanized.

21 Sport 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
19 Snuffs Enuff Sport 12m
20 Chicken Sport 16m
* Chook Sport 16m
Death of a New Car Salesman Sport 10m
** Galvanise Sport 10m
21 * Bruised Poonarnee Sport 14m
Galvanized Vari Sport 15m
Jello Sport 14m
22 * Last Stand Sport 12m, 5
* Progress Comes to Shitsville Sport 10m
* The Nose in 4 Minutes Sport 9m
23 Dancing with Deborah Sport 12m
*** Los Hermanos de la Denitente Sport 10m
24 ** Electric Gut Stick Gobblers Sport 10m
** Los Hermanos de la Denitente Extension Sport 15m
The Nose in 4 Minutes - Extension Sport 16m
25 * Electric Gut Stick Gobblers Extension Sport 15m, 6
* Rooster Sport 16m
26 *** Biafra Sport 12m
Top Hat Sport 16m
28 ** Shot of Spirit Sport 12m