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Description

This is the very prominent 85° wall with a small overlap near the top. The first two routes 'Trollberg' and Pinocheo's nose aren't actually on this wall but to the R.

© (bundybear)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
18 * Courner From Heaven Sport 20m, 7

Up the obvious easiest line up the corner, then the weakness in the headwall As for Corner from Hell Up the corner wandering right at one third height then balance up the headwall to the same anchor as Chicken and Chook

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

2
16 R Corner From Hell Trad 15m

Start: 15m left of C.

Up obvious corner (dubious pro) to tree belay. (11/2012 - the climb is now fully bolted with lower-offs)

FA: David Duke (solo), 2000

3
25 Lazy Tick Sport 10m, 4

Obvious blunt feature, just left of CFH

4
22 * Sentry Duty Sport 10m

Bouldery

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009

5
20 Suprise Sport 15m

Start: 10m left of CFH, near tree.

Up past 4 RBs to double RB lower off.

FA: G Murray & S Vaughan

6
19 * Mousetrap Sport 16m

Start: 2m left of S.

Fine short wall to ledge. Beautiful balance moves to last bolt. 4 RBs to lower off on T.

FA: Simon Vaughan, L. Robinson, Gavin Murray, 2001

7
21 Trollberg Sport 16m

A weird crux section at 3rd bolt (can be avoided on L, don't!). Start at bulgy face with RB's 14m L of CFH. Up to double rings.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pauluffchenko, 1997

8
19 Trollberg McDougall Sport 16m

Same as 'Trollberg', but at 3rd bolt move to the left and use the crack, then up and back on the climb and continue to anchors.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

9
18 Pinocchio's Nose Trad 18m

Not too bad, start: 2m left of T, below dirty corner crack.

Up the crack (4 RBs plus natural gear) to tree belay.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

10
17 * The Red Room Sport 16m

Start: 2m left of PN.

Haul onto wall, then edge up arete passing 4 RBs. Double RB lower off.

FA: Simon Vaughan, Gavin Murray

11
19 * Hugh Town Sport 15m

Steep Start up blunt arete as for Red Room then balance up featured slab to same lower off as Red Room

FA: Simon Vaughan

12
18 * Michael in Vox Trad 16m

For an excellent pumps and slightly more convenient version of Micheal in Shorts traverse R at break above BR to join VP

FA: Craig Martin, 1996

13
22 Vox Populi Lite Trad 16m

Trad Economics on this one. As for VP.Up 'Vox Populi' to move left at ledge at bottom of crack and up thin looking wall to gain lower off ring on 'Vox Populi' finish. Protect using good preplaced cams in break above the thin wall with long slings and pro as for 'Vox Populi' up to and including the crack.

FA: Gavin Murray, Simon Vaughan, 2002