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Table of contents

1. Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall 13 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad
Description:© (bundybear)

This is the very prominent 85° wall with a small overlap near the top. The first two routes 'Trollberg' and Pinocheo's nose aren't actually on this wall but to the R.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Courner From Heaven

Up the obvious easiest line up the corner, then the weakness in the headwall As for Corner from Hell Up the corner wandering right at one third height then balance up the headwall to the same anchor as Chicken and Chook

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

18 Sport 20m, 7
2 Corner From Hell

Start: 15m left of C.

Up obvious corner (dubious pro) to tree belay. (11/2012 - the climb is now fully bolted with lower-offs)

FA: David Duke (solo), 2000

16 R Trad 15m
3 Score the Lazy Route

Obvious blunt feature, just left of CFH

FA: Brad Lumb and Jason Lammers

Set by Jason Lammers

25 Sport 10m, 4
4 * Sentry Duty


FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009

22 Sport 10m
5 Suprise

Start: 10m left of CFH, near tree.

Up past 4 RBs to double RB lower off.

FA: G Murray & S Vaughan

20 Sport 15m
6 * Mousetrap

Start: 2m left of S.

Fine short wall to ledge. Beautiful balance moves to last bolt. 4 RBs to lower off on T.

FA: Simon Vaughan, L. Robinson, Gavin Murray, 2001

19 Sport 16m
7 Trollberg

A weird crux section at 3rd bolt (can be avoided on L, don't!). Start at bulgy face with RB's 14m L of CFH. Up to double rings.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pauluffchenko, 1997

21 Sport 16m
8 Trollberg McDougall

Same as 'Trollberg', but at 3rd bolt move to the left and use the crack, then up and back on the climb and continue to anchors.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

19 Sport 16m
9 Pinocchio's Nose

Not too bad, start: 2m left of T, below dirty corner crack.

Up the crack (4 RBs plus natural gear) to tree belay.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

18 Mixed 18m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 * The Red Room

Start: 2m left of PN.

Haul onto wall, then edge up arete passing 4 RBs. Double RB lower off.

FA: Simon Vaughan, Gavin Murray

17 Sport 16m
11 * Hugh Town

Steep Start up blunt arete as for Red Room then balance up featured slab to same lower off as Red Room

FA: Simon Vaughan

19 Sport 15m
12 * Michael in Vox

For an excellent pumps and slightly more convenient version of Micheal in Shorts traverse R at break above BR to join VP

FA: Craig Martin, 1996

18 Trad 16m
13 Vox Populi Lite

Trad Economics on this one. As for VP.Up 'Vox Populi' to move left at ledge at bottom of crack and up thin looking wall to gain lower off ring on 'Vox Populi' finish. Protect using good preplaced cams in break above the thin wall with long slings and pro as for 'Vox Populi' up to and including the crack.

FA: Gavin Murray, Simon Vaughan, 2002

22 Trad 16m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
16 R Corner From Hell Trad 15m
17 * The Red Room Sport 16m
18 * Courner From Heaven Sport 20m, 7
* Michael in Vox Trad 16m
Pinocchio's Nose Mixed 18m, 4
19 * Hugh Town Sport 15m
* Mousetrap Sport 16m
Trollberg McDougall Sport 16m
20 Suprise Sport 15m
21 Trollberg Sport 16m
22 * Sentry Duty Sport 10m
Vox Populi Lite Trad 16m
25 Score the Lazy Route Sport 10m, 4