Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall Cliff guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Simon Vaughan Matt Tranter Lionel Terray Alex Rogers Rob Knight Campbell Gome Mike Garben Dave McGregor Vaughan Shanks David O'Donnell

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1. Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall 13 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall 13 routes in Cliff

seasonality

Summary:: Sport,Trad
Description:© (bundybear): This is the very prominent 85° wall with a small overlap near the top. The first two routes 'Trollberg' and Pinocheo's nose aren't actually on this wall but to the R.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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1	Courner From Heaven Up the obvious easiest line up the corner, then the weakness in the headwall As for Corner from Hell Up the corner wandering right at one third height then balance up the headwall to the same anchor as Chicken and Chook FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010	18	Sport 20m , 7	tob wei 3 weeks ago nice upper section! tob wei 3 weeks ago nice upper section!
2	Corner From Hell Start: 15m left of C. Up obvious corner (dubious pro) to tree belay. (11/2012 - the climb is now fully bolted with lower-offs) FA: David Duke (solo), 2000	16 R	Trad 15m	Alex Rogers 6 months ago Now fully bolted with lower offs, which is great as it is a little tough for a 16. Brendon Flanagan 12 months ago Be careful not to get your knuckles stuck in the crack! Balancy climb, quite good fun.
3	Sentry Duty Bouldery FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009	22	Sport 10m	Marek 13 weeks ago Bouldery and balancy and a lot of fun. Marek 3 months ago Used these two crimps to try and get feet high. All I have to do now is stick a good right footer...
4	Suprise Start: 10m left of CFH, near tree. Up past 4 RBs to double RB lower off. FA: G Murray & S Vaughan,	20	Sport 15m	Matt Tranter 3 years ago Done with loads of Beta from Mr Vaughan. Good climb, thin at start. Rod Smith 4 years ago Nice moves. Sport. With Jim.
5	Mousetrap Start: 2m left of S. Fine short wall to ledge. Beautiful balance moves to last bolt. 4 RBs to lower off on T. FA: Simon Vaughan, L. Robinson, Gavin Murray, 2001	19	Sport 16m	Marek 10 weeks ago Always fun repeat. Alex Rogers 6 months ago Pulled on the 1st draw as couldn't work out the move. Fun problem to come back to. No real diffic...
6	Trollberg A weird crux section at 3rd bolt (can be avoided on L, don't!). Start at bulgy face with RB's 14m L of CFH. Up to double rings. FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pauluffchenko, 1997	21	Sport 16m	Marek 9 weeks ago Two shots this evening. The start and the crux are the best on this climb. Some precise footwork ... Vanessa Wills 5 years ago a bit contrived staying out of crack
7	Trollberg McDougall Same as 'Trollberg', but at 3rd bolt move to the left and use the crack, then up and back on the climb and continue to anchors. FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997	19	Sport 16m	Rod Smith 4 years ago OK except for avoiding the crux that makes it a 21. Sport. With Jim. David O'Donnell 5 years ago absolute rubbish to think that if you step 1m left, its a different route. Just downgrade Trollbe...
8	Pinocchio's Nose Not too bad, start: 2m left of T, below dirty corner crack. Up the crack (4 RBs plus natural gear) to tree belay. FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997	18	Trad 18m	Marek 9 weeks ago Some good quality moves throughout the climb. Done as a sport route. Rod Smith 5 years ago With Gus and Rick. Tricky still. Wire work.
9	The Red Room Start: 2m left of PN. Haul onto wall, then edge up arete passing 4 RBs. Double RB lower off. FA: Simon Vaughan, Gavin Murray,	17	Sport 16m	Marek 9 weeks ago Warm-up. Paul Thomson 10 months ago Yep, yet another repeat. Can almost run up it now, but still worth the lap.
10	Hugh Town Steep Start up blunt arete as for Red Room then balance up featured slab to same lower off as Red Room FA: Simon Vaughan,	19	Sport 15m	Marek 5 months ago Love the balancey feet. Paul Thomson 11 months ago Reasonably pleasant climbing. Only one move at the grade, making this far less sustained than con...
11	Michael in Vox For an excellent pumps and slightly more convenient version of Micheal in Shorts traverse R at break above BR to join VP FA: Craig Martin, 1996	18	Trad 16m
12	Vox Populi Lite Trad Economics on this one. As for VP.Up 'Vox Populi' to move left at ledge at bottom of crack and up thin looking wall to gain lower off ring on 'Vox Populi' finish. Protect using good preplaced cams in break above the thin wall with long slings and pro as for 'Vox Populi' up to and including the crack. FA: Gavin Murray, Simon Vaughan, 2002	22	Trad 16m
13	Lammers Project Up and reputed to have been done at 25 by a Canberra raider Start: At obvious blunt feature full of bolts and chalk		Sport 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style
16	Corner From Hell	Trad 15m
17	The Red Room	Sport 16m
18	Courner From Heaven	Sport 20m , 7
	Michael in Vox	Trad 16m
	Pinocchio's Nose	Trad 18m
19	Hugh Town	Sport 15m
	Mousetrap	Sport 16m
	Trollberg McDougall	Sport 16m
20	Suprise	Sport 15m
21	Trollberg	Sport 16m
22	Sentry Duty	Sport 10m
	Vox Populi Lite	Trad 16m
?	Lammers Project	Sport 10m

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Cliff Guide for Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall

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Table of contents

1. Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall 13 routes in Cliff

2. Index by grade