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Summary

Perfect rock. Often the starting point for newbies.

Description

This is the very prominent 85° wall with a small overlap near the top.

Routes are very densely packed but high quality and varied. You can quite easily spend a full day doing great routes without moving more than 10 metres.

Approach

Walk 2 mins past the first cave area.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
19 * Hugh Town Sport 15m

Right of Dorothy the Dinosaur and left of the arête (Red Room).

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2006

2
17 ** Dorothy the Dinosaur Sport 16m

Start 4m L of PN. Up past 5 RB's to Lower offs.

The 3rd route from the right, starting at the arête (Red Room)

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze & Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

3

A ripper of a climb, great slopey slab climbing, and just a tad runout to keep you on your toes. Up the wall past 3 RBs trending left, thru small overlap and 1 more BR to anchors. Stay tuned, the run out will soon be obliterated

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze & Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

4
16 ** Vox Fox Mixed 15m, 6

start up Silver fox, and to straighten out the kink, finish up Vox Populi.

FA: David O'Donnell

5
18 ** Vox Populi Mixed 15m, 4

Fabulous wall and small roof, the best 18 in the area. Start 5m L of TaHT below and left of FH. Up past hangers and small cams or wires in flaring crack to U anchor, starting at a fixed hanger. The 2nd FH has been replaced with a RB, and now climb past U bolt to 2 RB Lower offs shared with 'Silver Fox'.

FA: Garth Miller & Dave Duke, 1992

6
20 * Silver Fox Sport 16m

Start 4m left of VP. Up slab with some nice balancy moves. Move right and cross VP and straight up over rooflet. 5RB to DRB Lower off.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2006

7
20 ** Iclimb Sport 15m

Up Silver Fox past newly added first bolt and up to rock over past the bulge and straight up the headwall to DRB anchors in orange scoop. Start as for Silver Fox Fine balancy climbing just after the start and on to the anchors.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012

8
16 Michael in Shorts Trad 15m

Start: 3m left of VP, below corner.

Up the corner then over the overlap (BR) to tree belay.

FA: Craig Martin, 1996

10
12 Digit Dave Sport 15m

Up corner to step L and up second vague corner.

FA: David & Simon Duke, 1990

11
14 Selective Cleansing Sport 10m, 3

One for the Kiddies Start just left off the corner, up the blunt arete.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012

12
18 MAYBE NEW CLIMB? - Trad 15m

Climb corner then follow crack system left till you get below iClimb. Don't clip bolt, but place some gear then climb to the left of bolts in small seam, got a 000 C3 in there then run to the anchor of iClimb. Possibly a new climb, possibly already done?

FFA: Jake Griffiths, 19th Jul