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Description

The obvious massive cave with the high rooves. The routes on the right side of the cave on the buttress are newly rebolted with rings and are all very good. There is awesome pumpy roof climbing in the main cave.

© (bundybear)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 L Sport 7m
2
8 M Unknown 10m
3
17 N Unknown 10m
4
25 O Unknown 10m
5
14 P Unknown 10m
6
17 El Captain Pants Unknown 10m
7
22 Three Wise Monkeys Unknown 10m
8

Newly rebolted. Step left after climbing the bolted little corner and up nice orange and featured headwall to lower offs. Beautiful really.

Start: Up closed little corner as for "Three Wise Monkeys"

FA: G. Williamson. F. Duxfield, 1998

9
17 Downhill Demise Sport 15m, 7

Up little corner step left and up line of bolts right of Airy not scary. Nice longish moves. Up little bolted corner as for Airy Not Scary Nice moves up flakes, bit of friction when lowering off, unclip some draws on the way down if some else is doing it with the draws in!

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

10
18 ** Airy Not Scary Sport 20m, 7

Up little bolted corner from ground level and traverse left and up on RB's right of "White Limbo" on the headwall, on holds that you know you just won't let go of. This route finishes up the second last line of rings up the headwall looking right to left above the main cave.Start up bolted closed little corner as for the previous routes

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

11
19 ** White Limbo Trad 20m

Fantastic jugging through a small section of the main roof. Start 3m Downhill from arête at traverse line. Traverse L past #1 SLCD placement to 2 BR's into small roof (BR) then up and left past 2 FH's to double rings. 5 BR's.

FA: Garth Miller, 1991

12
19 ** Opiate Sport 20m

A very nice climb! Start as for WWYSIISTYTTGWL(!) up to clip new RB, one move up then traverse L to BR up into cave as for WL then fire straight up wall to chains.

FA: G. Williamson. F. Duxfield., 2000

13
21 * Sensei Woo Sport 15m

"Batman" up to obvious good incut holds, then heave up to slab and up headwall as for "Airy Not Scary" Underneath big grey bulge 5 metres right of Project - Simon Vaughan All you need is belief and a little bit of Kung Fu

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2013

14
19 ** White Limbo Direct Trad 20m

Start as for O. Up as for O to join WL at traverse line. Then as for WL.

FA: G Williamson, F Duxfield., 2000

15
27 * Desparate Liaisons Sport 15m

Start: Left of O, below middle of roof. Stick clip first BR, then dyno and slab up to roof. Out the lovely roof to double RB lower off just over lip. 7 RBs in total.

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

16
27 * Ultine Demence Sport 15m

Start: 4m left of DL. Up to 3rd BR, then move right and up past 5 more BRs (stay right) to chain. The last bolt is hard to clip, and is safe to skip on the RP attempt.

FA: Garth Miller, 1993

17
25 ** Controlled Hysteria Sport 15m

Start as for UD (in the middle of the cave), up past a carrot and continue up to the 6th hanger (has mallion attached). Then move left to finish on chain shared with DdF.

FA: Garth Miller, 1991

18
23 *** Diagonal du Fou Sport 15m

A good route to get pumped senseless on! Start as for CH, at 3rd bolt (2nd hanger) move to the left and up and over roof. Milk the rest and traverse up on the lip of the cave past squillions of bolts to chain shared with CH.

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

20
25 * Diagonal Hysteria Sport 15m

Start up TCD to join DdF up till 5th BR then go straight ahead past another bolt to join CH.

21
21 Out on a Limb Trad 10m

A good way to experience massive pump without the crux of DdF, pity about the grotty start. Start 10m L of TCD move R with Natural Protection to sit down under roof. Out as for DdF.

FA: F Duxfield, 1997

22
19 Au Cheval Sport 15m

On the outside wall of the cave

FA: V Wills, 2008

23
18 Fractured Fantasy Sport 10m

The next one along

FA: V Wills, R Wills, 2008

24
16 Fat Like Butter Sport 9m, 4

Nice jug pulling start and then up the scoup. Watch out for the band of bad rock at 2/3 height. Start just left of the big tree.

25

Tiny crimps. Short and sweet.

26
20 * Back to the Future Sport 8m

Climb up the Arete. Short and Sharp. Could well have been in the really old guide book as a Top roped boulder problem V0/1. Start in the alcove below the Arete.

27
21 ** El Captain Pants Sport 20m, 8

Rebolted 9/10/2010. Up little closed corner passing 3 RB's and surmount top of corner to clip the the first headwall RB of "Three Wise Monkey's" then step right. Up the tricky start and headwall. How the boys arrived at grade 17 for this route I don't know. First route on the right hand side of the cave at the buttress. Start by either rambling in from the right, facing the cliff and up to first ring bolt OR better, as described, start from the little closed corner below from ground level at RB's.

FA: Flint Duxfield, Geordie Williamson, 1998

28
22 ** Three Wise Monkeys Sport 20m, 8

Newly rebolted so start up the little closed corner as for "El Captain Pants" and straight up the headwall passing a combination of 8 RB's and hangers.

FA: Geordie Williamson, Flint Duxfield, 1998

29

Newly rebolted. Step left after climbing the bolted little corner and up nice orange and featured headwall to lower offs. Beautiful really. Up closed little corner as for "Three Wise Monkeys" Some hold searching required mid height

30
31
17 Empire of the Senseless Unknown 10m
32

After heaving up the same start as "Desperate Liasons" head right to get into the obvious hole and slap like a madman to get into the big scoop above and right, up mini arete, then finish up "Airy Not Scary". Hardest thing I have put up, it might be a giveaway to a cranker

33
21 The Cave Direct Sport 15m

Start 3m L of the starts for DdF and CH. Move up on slopers and mantle to join DdF, the up past 3 bolts and continue straight up to chain shared with previous climbs.

FA: G. Williamson. F. Duxfield., 2000