Crag Guide for Mt Alexandra

The first route you come to. Tricky start then nice moves thru bulge without using the cave. Then a walk to the anchors.

FA: Simon Vaughan, L. Robinson, 2001

Looks OK, but everyone says its crap. Get on it, and judge for yourself. Hard to clean, best to get someone to 2nd it.

Start: Start: 2m left of SE

Last Stand

Clip 1st bolt of DOANCS, surmount the bulge,move right to mini arete, clip bolt then move into litte closed corner then up through steepness to anchors. As for 'Death Of A New Car Salesman' Bouldery crux around the mini arete to steep climbing on pockets and jugs

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

A nice line, a bit tricky to clip the 2nd bolt. Up past 5 RBs to U anchor lower off. Stiff at 20 (could be 21), but guess who bolted it ?

Start: Start: Behind Tree

FA: Mark Woodard, 1997

Progress Comes to Shitsville

Hard at the grade, but nevertheless another fantastic offering by Mr Woodward. Left of DoaNCS, below crack. Up to crack (crux) then

up and right to jug. Out roof on jugs to glory. 3 RBs

(2nd is hard to clip), clip double RB anchor on lip then

continue up and right to lower off as for DoaNCS.

Sustained !

FA: Mark Woodard, 1998

Party Hat

Start up Electric Gut Stick Gobblers past 3 bolts. Then push directly up and slightly right and blast thru the roof to glory.

FA: Andy, 2006

Electric Gut Stick Gobblers

Graeme reckons it 22, but the locals reckon its aleast 24. Start: Left of PCtS, below round feature.

Up into closed corner and up. Move left and out to double RB on LHdlD.

FA: Graeme Hill, 1998

im guessing this route does EGSG and LHDLD's ext

FA: Andy,

Los Hermanos de la Denitente

The Crag Classic !! Solid and sustained wall climbing on good holds. Stand up on tree stump, and power all the way thru to roof. Shake out here and show off with a french blow - punch the roof and into the cave, then move up right wards to clip the anchors.

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

Los Hermanos de la Denitente Extension

Clip one of the double rings of LHDLD as a BR and pump right to the anchors. If you clip a long draw at the anchors or stand in the tree you haven't done it

FA: Graeme Hill, 1998

From the anchors on 'Biafra', keep on truckin' past 2 more RBs thru the roof to finish on big jugs and lower offs.

FA: Andy, 2006

Biafra

Next to trees near left edge of cave. Use your squiddy (or stick) to clip first RB, then bouldery, powerful moves to a good rest at 3rd RB. Hard moves to 4th RB then EZ steep territory to double RB lower off. 6 RBs in total.

FA: Cameron Breeze, 1999

FA: Cameron Breeze, 1999

Bruised Poonarnee

Start between B an G. Trick start then up flake to break. Then as per G to anchors.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2008

As for G, but traverse right after 4th RB on G past a RB and clip the last RB on B, then upto anchors. Good way to get the gear on 'Biafra'.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2006

Galvanise

Start 3m left of B. Nice route or good warmup for the harder stuff in the cave. Stays dry in pouring rain. 5 RB to Lower Offs.

FA: Jason Lammers & Steve Hawkshaw, 2006

The Nose in 4 Minutes

Clip 1st bolt then streno start past 2nd bolt, then blistfull balancey moves past several more RB to anchors. For full value do the extension all that way to top of cliff.

FA: Simon Vaughan, Gavin Murray, 2004

From the anchors on tNi4m, keep on going thru overhung territory and up to anchors on left.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2008

Chook

New FHs in 2000 replaced some only manky bolts. Now a fantastic excursion. Undercut start, then slab to sustained head wall. 5 FHs to lower off.

4 RB to join 'Chook' at the headwall

Start: Start 4m L of 'Chook' below RB's

FA: Simon Vaughan,

Courner From Heaven

Up the obvious easiest line up the corner, then the weakness in the headwall As for Corner from Hell Up the corner wandering right at one third height then balance up the headwall to the same anchor as Chicken and Chook

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

Start: 15m left of C.

Up obvious corner (dubious pro) to tree belay. (11/2012 - the climb is now fully bolted with lower-offs)

FA: David Duke (solo), 2000

Sentry Duty

Bouldery

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009

Start: 10m left of CFH, near tree.

Up past 4 RBs to double RB lower off.

FA: G Murray & S Vaughan,

Mousetrap

Start: 2m left of S.

Fine short wall to ledge. Beautiful balance moves to last bolt. 4 RBs to lower off on T.

FA: Simon Vaughan, L. Robinson, Gavin Murray, 2001

A weird crux section at 3rd bolt (can be avoided on L, don't!). Start at bulgy face with RB's 14m L of CFH. Up to double rings.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pauluffchenko, 1997

Same as 'Trollberg', but at 3rd bolt move to the left and use the crack, then up and back on the climb and continue to anchors.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

Not too bad, start: 2m left of T, below dirty corner crack.

Up the crack (4 RBs plus natural gear) to tree belay.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

The Red Room

Start: 2m left of PN.

Haul onto wall, then edge up arete passing 4 RBs. Double RB lower off.

FA: Simon Vaughan, Gavin Murray,

Hugh Town

Steep Start up blunt arete as for Red Room then balance up featured slab to same lower off as Red Room

FA: Simon Vaughan,

Michael in Vox

For an excellent pumps and slightly more convenient version of Micheal in Shorts traverse R at break above BR to join VP

FA: Craig Martin, 1996

Trad Economics on this one. As for VP.Up 'Vox Populi' to move left at ledge at bottom of crack and up thin looking wall to gain lower off ring on 'Vox Populi' finish. Protect using good preplaced cams in break above the thin wall with long slings and pro as for 'Vox Populi' up to and including the crack.

FA: Gavin Murray, Simon Vaughan, 2002

Up and reputed to have been done at 25 by a Canberra raider

Start: At obvious blunt feature full of bolts and chalk

Dorothy the Dinosaur

Start 4m L of PN. Up past 5 RB's to Lower offs.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

Three and a Half Thousand

A ripper of a climb, great slopey slab climbing, and just a tad runout to keep you on your toes. Up the wall past 3 RBs, thru small overlap and 1 more BR to anchors. Stay tuned, the run out will soon be obliterated

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

Vox Fox

start up Silver fox, and to straighten out the kink, finish up Vox Populi.

FA: David O'Donnell,

Vox Populi

Fabulous wall and small roof, the best 18 in the area. Start 5m L of TaHT below and left of FH. Up past 3 FH's and #1 cam or wires in flaring crack to U anchor. The 2nd FH has been replaced with a RB, and now climb past U bolt to 2 RB Lower offs shared with 'Silver Fox'.

FA: Garth Miller, Dave Duke, 1992

Silver Fox

Start 4m left of VP. Up slab with some nice balancy moves. Move right and cross VP and straight up over rooflet. 5RB to DRB Lower off.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2006

Iclimb

Up Silver Fox past newly added first bolt and up to rock over past the bulge and straight up the headwall to DRB anchors in orange scoop. Start as for Silver Fox Fine balancy climbing just after the start and on to the anchors.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012

Start: 3m left of VP, below corner.

Up the corner then over the overlap (BR) to tree belay.

FA: Craig Martin, 1996

Up corner to step L and up second vague corner.

FA: David and Simon Duke, 1990

One for the Kiddies :-) Start just left off the corner, up the blunt arete.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012

Has new steel. Several rings to lower off. Clip the lower offs and move past them if you want to do the routes on the 'Piccolo Luna' sundeck. There are also new double ring bolts at the base of the 'Piccolo Luna' wall for belaying and rapping

Start: Start at inviting looking section of slabbiness.

FA: Garth Miller, Jay Williams, 1992

Planetarium

Up the arete At arete on the right hand side of the compact wall Thug to block, pull through on finger jugs to balancy finish

FA: Simon Vaughan,

3m right of P2 of B. A tough little unit. Up nice compact wall past 2 RBs to DRB lower off.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2004

Top Shelf Goodies

Use the crack to gain the first bolt. Make a long reach left to great pockets and finish on jugs to the top. Over too soon. Start just left of the crack.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

Upper Class

Hard pulls through the scoop. Great jugs to the top. Start below the left hand arete of the sundeck ledge.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

Hard pulls through the scoop. Great jugs to the top. Start below the left hand arete of the sundeck ledge.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

Quart de Seicle

Start: Up the B gully to the platform to clip the first ringbolt. Pull through overhang then move right (crux). Up past RB's and FH's to lower offs.

Start: Below vege gully and obvious hanging headwall

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

Deception

A nice fingery wall. Up QDS however trend left at overhang to RB on headwall, then up past FH and another RB to same lower off as QDS.

Start: Up vege gully as for QDS

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

Alpine

Follow the ringbolts up to the prow up high At ringbolt about4-5 metres above track level Up through the overlaps with a bit of high stepping action, to an almost vertical finish

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

Up to the little closed seam/corner on surprising holds. Soloed by Garth Miller 27/12/91 5 metres left of In the Inn of the Sixth Happiness Up to the closed little corner/seam on surprising holds. A little mossy in parts due to absolutely no traffic since the historic solo in 1991

FA: Garth Miller - Solo, 1991

Kiddies Chorus

The left of the 3 routes on the amazing high headwall Up vege gully as for Deception and QDS Up the leaning yellow corner and step right onto the mini arete and then onto the headwall

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

Re equipped with steel. Up the stepped looking arete passing 6RB's to lower offs several kilometres back from the top.

Start: At blunt arete 15 metres left of 'Alpine'

FA: Garth Miller, Jay Williams, 1991

Start 2 metres left of Parents. Pull through the slot and ramble to the steep all. Keep right on the jugs for a fair grade. Finish at Parents lower offs.

FA: matttranter, 2011

Start under the over hung crack. Lock off in the crack and dyno for the thank god hold on the lip.

FA: matttranter, 2011

Same death start as Pre Pimple Pop

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009

Pre Pimple Pop

Start 7m L of PIP under the obvious imposing overhang.

A fantastic overhang, one of the most popular routes in the Southern Highlands. Up onto slab via L or R (BR) then through overhang to pull lip (crux). Lower off, or continue powering through juggy choss. 5 BR inc anchor.

FA: Garth Miller, Tim Cartwright, Craig Sloss, 1991

Start 2m L of PPP. Named after Tim Cartwright went under Craig Slosses nose and stole his project! Rebolted with 8 rings to lower offs.

Start: Left of Pre 'Pimple' Pop at jugs at track level

FA: Tim Cartwright, 1991

Mango Tango

Start in small corner L of JE. Absolutely brilliant top

moves once you've bumbled over the bulge. 4 new RB to Lower Offs.

FA: Garth Miller, 1991

Start 15m L of MT at RB. Up to the L to power through

overhang and tricky mantle to easy ground. Good buying at 23.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pauluffchenko, 1997

Manchester United

1m left of PDA. Boulder start to first RB then up past 3RBs to mantle through to another RB to DRB lower off shared with DA.

The Big Day Out

Stick clip first FH. Up wall and clip 2nd, nice rest here b4 a very large reach move to 3rd FH. Continue up head wall past more FH's to chains in cave. 5 FH's.

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

Quickie Quim Fill

Pure Hill GOLD !! Start 3m L of TBDO (just around the corner). Hard moves to start with then sustained moves to double ring lower off. One of the best routes at MtA.

FA: Graham Hill, 1997

Up QQ and past crux till 4th bolt, then move left on great pockets clipping a bolt. Then enter the crux on SA and up to new lower offs.

FA: Project - Jason Lammers,

Suspended Animation

A fantastic route up a superb line. 3m L of QQ. Stick dip first bolt, batman up to obvious jug, then up the crimpy wall to the crux past the last bolt.

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

Stem up corner to start then trend right to anchors. Start just left of SA at the green grassy 'gate'. Open the gate !! and pull up the little corner to the pedestal. Edges, slopes and layaways up vertical wall after stepping right from the corner when you can.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012

Pre Pimple Pop (needs rebolting)

A fantastic overhang, one of the most popular routes in the Southern Highlands. Start 7m L of PIP under obvious imposing overhang. Up onto slab via L or R (BR) then through overhang to pull lip (crux) lower off U anchor or continue powering

through juggy choss! 5 BR's including U Anchor.

FA: Miller, Tim Cartwright, Craig Sloss,

FA: Garth, 1991

B

Start at vegetated

corner 2m L of OPS. A fine climb once the botany is

avoided, delete the star if you avoid the second pitch.

1. 12m (14) Avoid vegetation in initial corner, then head up the lovely corner above to belay on carrots on Picolo Luna sundeck.

2. 6m (15) The deceptively tricky thin yellow corner crack / flake. Natural belay at top or lower off Picolo Luna rings.

FA: P1. Craig Sloss P2. David Duke, 1990

Left hand arete of boulder.

FA: Ken McKeon, 2007

Nice jug pulling start and then up the scoup. Watch out for the band of bad rock at 2/3 height. Start just left of the big tree.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

Welcome to Moss Vegas.

Short and balancy. will be Ok once the moss wears off a bit! Hard 21.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

A brief bulge and then it is slab city. Remember, friends don't let friends do slabs!

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

Climb up the Arete. Short and Sharp. Could well have been in the really old guide book as a Top roped boulder problem V0/1. Start in the alcove below the Arete.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

What Would You Say if I Said to You that this Gun was Loaded?

Newly rebolted. Step left after climbing the bolted little corner and up nice orange and featured headwall to lower offs. Beautiful really.

Start: Up closed little corner as for "Three Wise Monkeys"

FA: G. Williamson. F. Duxfield, 1998

Up little corner step left and up line of bolts right of Airy not scary. Nice longish moves. Up little bolted corner as for Airy Not Scary Nice moves up flakes, bit of friction when lowering off, unclip some draws on the way down if some else is doing it with the draws in!

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

Airy Not Scary

Up little bolted corner from ground level and traverse left and up on RB's right of "White Limbo" on the headwall, on holds that you know you just won't let go of. This route finishes up the second last line of rings up the headwall looking right to left above the main cave.Start up bolted closed little corner as for the previous routes

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

White Limbo

Fantastic jugging through a small section of the main roof. Start 3m Downhill from arête at traverse line. Traverse L past #1 SLCD placement to 2 BR's into small roof (BR) then up and left past 2 FH's to double rings. 5 BR's.

FA: Garth Miller, 1991

Opiate

A very nice climb! Start as for WWYSIISTYTTGWL(!) up to clip new RB, one move up then traverse L to BR up into cave as for WL then fire straight up wall to chains.

FA: G. Williamson. F. Duxfield., 2000

White Limbo Direct

Start as for O. Up as for O to join WL at traverse line. Then as for WL.

FA: G Williamson, F Duxfield., 2000

Desparate Liaisons

Start: Left of O, below middle of roof. Stick clip first BR, then dyno and slab up to roof. Out the lovely roof to double RB lower off just over lip. 7 RBs in total.

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

Ultine Demence

Start: 4m left of DL. Up to 3rd BR, then move right and up past 5 more BRs (stay right) to chain. The last bolt is hard to clip, and is safe to skip on the RP attempt.

FA: Garth Miller, 1993

Controlled Hysteria

Start as for UD (in the middle of the cave), up past a carrot and continue up to the 6th hanger (has mallion attached). Then move left to finish on chain shared with DdF.

FA: Garth Miller, 1991

Diagonal du Fou

A good route to get pumped senseless on! Start as for CH, at 3rd bolt (2nd hanger) move to the left and up and over roof. Milk the rest and traverse up on the lip of the cave past squillions of bolts to chain shared with CH.

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

Diagonal Hysteria

Start up TCD to join DdF up till 5th BR then go straight ahead past another bolt to join CH.

A good way to experience massive pump without the crux of DdF, pity about the grotty start. Start 10m L of TCD move R with Natural Protection to sit down under roof. Out as for DdF.

FA: F Duxfield, 1997

On the outside wall of the cave

FA: V Wills, 2008

The next one along

FA: V Wills, R Wills, 2008

Nice jug pulling start and then up the scoup. Watch out for the band of bad rock at 2/3 height. Start just left of the big tree.

Tiny crimps. Short and sweet.

Back to the Future

Climb up the Arete. Short and Sharp. Could well have been in the really old guide book as a Top roped boulder problem V0/1. Start in the alcove below the Arete.

El Captain Pants

Rebolted 9/10/2010. Up little closed corner passing 3 RB's and surmount top of corner to clip the the first headwall RB of "Three Wise Monkey's" then step right. Up the tricky start and headwall. How the boys arrived at grade 17 for this route I don't know. First route on the right hand side of the cave at the buttress. Start by either rambling in from the right, facing the cliff and up to first ring bolt OR better, as described, start from the little closed corner below from ground level at RB's.

FA: Flint Duxfield, Geordie Williamson, 1998

Three Wise Monkeys

Newly rebolted so start up the little closed corner as for "El Captain Pants" and straight up the headwall passing a combination of 8 RB's and hangers.

FA: Geordie Williamson, Flint Duxfield, 1998

Newly rebolted. Step left after climbing the bolted little corner and up nice orange and featured headwall to lower offs. Beautiful really. Up closed little corner as for "Three Wise Monkeys" Some hold searching required mid height

After heaving up the same start as "Desperate Liasons" head right to get into the obvious hole and slap like a madman to get into the big scoop above and right, up mini arete, then finish up "Airy Not Scary". Hardest thing I have put up, it might be a giveaway to a cranker

Start 3m L of the starts for DdF and CH. Move up on slopers and mantle to join DdF, the up past 3 bolts and continue straight up to chain shared with previous climbs.

FA: G. Williamson. F. Duxfield., 2000