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Table of contents

1. Mt Alexandra 129 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.455956, -34.442432

Description:

A great crag in Mittagong, an hour and twenty minutes drive from Sydney and a good change from Nowra. Climbs are mostly sports with the odd trad line thrown in. Faces north west so can get a bit hot during summer, but because of the altitude tends to stay cooler than Nowra.

Approach:© (bundybear)

To get to Mt. Alexandra from Sydney follow the Hume 'Highway' until it is possible to turn off into Mittagong.

Follow the road into Mittagong. Once you pass the Information Center on your L take the next R just past the petrol station. Take the next L then turn R into 'Victoria' St. Follow this as it climbs steeply up until its end in a dirt carpark, park here. Walk towards the rock cutting past the obvious overhanging bouldering area on your R (Sico wall) turn L down hill and pass another bouldering area (Garth's gallery) turn downhill again and follow the track to the base of the cliffs.

1.1. The First Cave 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

For a long time this sported only one route - Los Hermanos de la Denitente. Then this cave was discovered by Graeme Hill and Mark Woodard and several stiff sporty routes in the low to mid 20s where added. More recently, Simon Vaughan and Gavin Murray have added a couple more routes. Los Hermanos de la Denitente and Biafra can be attempted in the pouring rain.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Snuffs Enuff

The first route you come to. Tricky start then nice moves thru bulge without using the cave. Then a walk to the anchors.

FA: Simon Vaughan, L. Robinson, 2001

19Sport 12m
2 Dancing with Deborah

Looks OK, but everyone says its crap. Get on it, and judge for yourself. Hard to clean, best to get someone to 2nd it.

Start: Start: 2m left of SE

23Sport 12m
3 * Last Stand

Clip 1st bolt of DOANCS, surmount the bulge,move right to mini arete, clip bolt then move into litte closed corner then up through steepness to anchors. As for 'Death Of A New Car Salesman' Bouldery crux around the mini arete to steep climbing on pockets and jugs

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

22Sport 12m, 5
4 Death of a New Car Salesman

A nice line, a bit tricky to clip the 2nd bolt. Up past 5 RBs to U anchor lower off. Stiff at 20 (could be 21), but guess who bolted it ?

Start: Start: Behind Tree

FA: Mark Woodard, 1997

20Sport 10m
5 * Progress Comes to Shitsville

Hard at the grade, but nevertheless another fantastic offering by Mr Woodward. Left of DoaNCS, below crack. Up to crack (crux) then

up and right to jug. Out roof on jugs to glory. 3 RBs

(2nd is hard to clip), clip double RB anchor on lip then

continue up and right to lower off as for DoaNCS.

Sustained !

FA: Mark Woodard, 1998

22Sport 10m
6 ** Shot of Spirit

Straight up with difficulty down low then fly through the super roof

Set by Mark Farrell

FFA: Thomas Farrell

FA: Thomas Farrell, 2013

28Sport 12m
7 * Electric Gut Stick Gobblers Extension / Party Hat

Excellent sustained route with a technical start and a pumpy steep finish. Climb Electric Gut Stick Gobblers past 4 RBs to horizontal jug under roof, then out right on reachy mega pockets through roof to final move left to big plate and anchor. Watch your butt on the last move, if you fall off you land on the nearby tree!

FA: Andy (who?), 2006

25Sport 15m, 6
8 * Electric Gut Stick Gobblers

Graeme reckons it 22, but the locals reckon its aleast 24. Start: Left of PCtS, below round feature.

Up into closed corner and up. Move left and out to double RB on LHdlD.

FA: Graeme Hill, 1998

24Sport 10m
9 *** Los Hermanos de la Denitente

The Crag Classic !! Solid and sustained wall climbing on good holds. Stand up on tree stump, and power all the way thru to roof. Shake out here and show off with a french blow - punch the roof and into the cave, then move up right wards to clip the anchors.

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

23Sport 10m
10 ** Los Hermanos de la Denitente Extension

Clip one of the double rings of LHDLD as a BR and pump right to the anchors. If you clip a long draw at the anchors or stand in the tree you haven't done it

FA: Graeme Hill, 1998

24Sport 15m
11 Top Hat / Top Hat (Biafra Extention)

From the anchors on 'Biafra', keep on truckin' past 2 more RBs thru the roof to finish on big jugs and lower offs.

FA: Andy, 2006

26Sport 16m
12 *** Biafra

Next to trees near left edge of cave. Use your squiddy (or stick) to clip first RB, then bouldery, powerful moves to a good rest at 3rd RB. Hard moves to 4th RB then EZ steep territory to double RB lower off. 6 RBs in total.

FA: Cameron Breeze, 1999

FA: Cameron Breeze, 1999

26Sport 12m
13 * Bruised Poonarnee

Start between B an G. Trick start then up flake to break. Then as per G to anchors.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2008

21Sport 14m
14 Jello

As for G, but traverse right after 4th RB on G past a RB and clip the last RB on B, then upto anchors. Good way to get the gear on 'Biafra'.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2006

21Sport 14m
15 * Galvanise

Start 3m left of B. Nice route or good warmup for the harder stuff in the cave. Stays dry in pouring rain. 5 RB to Lower Offs.

FA: Jason Lammers & Steve Hawkshaw, 2006

20Sport 10m
16 * The Nose in 4 Minutes

Clip 1st bolt then streno start past 2nd bolt, then blistfull balancey moves past several more RB to anchors. For full value do the extension all that way to top of cliff.

FA: Simon Vaughan, Gavin Murray, 2004

22Sport 9m
17 The Nose in 4 Minutes - Extension

From the anchors on tNi4m, keep on going thru overhung territory and up to anchors on left.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2008

24Sport 16m
18 * Rooster

Start up Chook, then move right before the break (long draw here) then pull on to crimpy headwall. Then easily up to anchors...

FA: Jason Lammers, 2008

25Sport 16m
19 * Chook

New FHs in 2000 replaced some only manky bolts. Now a fantastic excursion. Undercut start, then slab to sustained head wall. 5 FHs to lower off.

20Sport 16m
20 Chicken

4 RB to join 'Chook' at the headwall

Start: Start 4m L of 'Chook' below RB's

FA: Simon Vaughan

20Sport 16m

1.2. Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:© (bundybear)

This is the very prominent 85° wall with a small overlap near the top. The first two routes 'Trollberg' and Pinocheo's nose aren't actually on this wall but to the R.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Courner From Heaven

Up the obvious easiest line up the corner, then the weakness in the headwall As for Corner from Hell Up the corner wandering right at one third height then balance up the headwall to the same anchor as Chicken and Chook

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

18Sport 20m, 7
2 Corner From Hell

Start: 15m left of C.

Up obvious corner (dubious pro) to tree belay. (11/2012 - the climb is now fully bolted with lower-offs)

FA: David Duke (solo), 2000

16 RTrad 15m
3 Score the Lazy Route

Obvious blunt feature, just left of CFH

FA: Brad Lumb and Jason Lammers

Set by Jason Lammers

25Sport 10m, 4
4 * Sentry Duty

Bouldery

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009

22Sport 10m
5 Suprise

Start: 10m left of CFH, near tree.

Up past 4 RBs to double RB lower off.

FA: G Murray & S Vaughan

20Sport 15m
6 * Mousetrap

Start: 2m left of S.

Fine short wall to ledge. Beautiful balance moves to last bolt. 4 RBs to lower off on T.

FA: Simon Vaughan, L. Robinson, Gavin Murray, 2001

19Sport 16m
7 Trollberg

A weird crux section at 3rd bolt (can be avoided on L, don't!). Start at bulgy face with RB's 14m L of CFH. Up to double rings.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pauluffchenko, 1997

21Sport 16m
8 Trollberg McDougall

Same as 'Trollberg', but at 3rd bolt move to the left and use the crack, then up and back on the climb and continue to anchors.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

19Sport 16m
9 Pinocchio's Nose

Not too bad, start: 2m left of T, below dirty corner crack.

Up the crack (4 RBs plus natural gear) to tree belay.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

18Trad 18m
10 * The Red Room

Start: 2m left of PN.

Haul onto wall, then edge up arete passing 4 RBs. Double RB lower off.

FA: Simon Vaughan, Gavin Murray

17Sport 16m
11 * Hugh Town

Steep Start up blunt arete as for Red Room then balance up featured slab to same lower off as Red Room

FA: Simon Vaughan

19Sport 15m
12 * Michael in Vox

For an excellent pumps and slightly more convenient version of Micheal in Shorts traverse R at break above BR to join VP

FA: Craig Martin, 1996

18Trad 16m
13 Vox Populi Lite

Trad Economics on this one. As for VP.Up 'Vox Populi' to move left at ledge at bottom of crack and up thin looking wall to gain lower off ring on 'Vox Populi' finish. Protect using good preplaced cams in break above the thin wall with long slings and pro as for 'Vox Populi' up to and including the crack.

FA: Gavin Murray, Simon Vaughan, 2002

22Trad 16m

1.3. Vox Populi Wall 11 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown
Description:

This is the very prominent 85° wall with a small overlap near the top.

Approach:

Walk 2 mins past the first cave area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Hugh Town

Right of Dorothy the Dinosaur

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2006

19Sport 15m
2 ** Dorothy the Dinosaur

Start 4m L of PN. Up past 5 RB's to Lower offs.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

17Sport 16m
3 ** Three and a Half Thousand

A ripper of a climb, great slopey slab climbing, and just a tad runout to keep you on your toes. Up the wall past 3 RBs, thru small overlap and 1 more BR to anchors. Stay tuned, the run out will soon be obliterated

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

20Sport 16m
4 ** Vox Fox

start up Silver fox, and to straighten out the kink, finish up Vox Populi.

FA: David O'Donnell

16Unknown 15m
5 ** Vox Populi

Fabulous wall and small roof, the best 18 in the area. Start 5m L of TaHT below and left of FH. Up past 3 FH's and #1 cam or wires in flaring crack to U anchor. The 2nd FH has been replaced with a RB, and now climb past U bolt to 2 RB Lower offs shared with 'Silver Fox'.

FA: Garth Miller, Dave Duke, 1992

18Trad 15m
6 * Silver Fox

Start 4m left of VP. Up slab with some nice balancy moves. Move right and cross VP and straight up over rooflet. 5RB to DRB Lower off.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2006

20Sport 16m
7 ** Iclimb

Up Silver Fox past newly added first bolt and up to rock over past the bulge and straight up the headwall to DRB anchors in orange scoop. Start as for Silver Fox Fine balancy climbing just after the start and on to the anchors.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012

20Sport 15m
8 Michael in Shorts

Start: 3m left of VP, below corner.

Up the corner then over the overlap (BR) to tree belay.

FA: Craig Martin, 1996

16Trad 15m
9 Michael in Shorts Variant 18Trad 15m
10 Digit Dave

Up corner to step L and up second vague corner.

FA: David and Simon Duke, 1990

12Trad 15m
11 Selective Cleansing

One for the Kiddies :-) Start just left off the corner, up the blunt arete.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012

14Sport 10m, 3

1.4. Central Area 40 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

This is the area centered around the obvious high, orange corner crack around the corner from Vox Populi Wall. There are a number of routes in the upper tier above this area that can be accessed by climbing the rebolted Garth Miller 14, "Open to Public Srutiny"

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Open to Public Scrutiny

Has new steel. Several rings to lower off. Clip the lower offs and move past them if you want to do the routes on the 'Piccolo Luna' sundeck. There are also new double ring bolts at the base of the 'Piccolo Luna' wall for belaying and rapping

Start: Start at inviting looking section of slabbiness.

FA: Garth Miller, Jay Williams, 1992

14Sport 20m
2 * B

Start at vegetated

corner 2m L of OPS. A fine climb once the botany is

avoided, delete the star if you avoid the second pitch.

  1. 12m (14) Avoid vegetation in initial corner, then head up the lovely corner above to belay on carrots on Picolo Luna sundeck.

  2. 6m (15) The deceptively tricky thin yellow corner crack / flake. Natural belay at top or lower off Picolo Luna rings.

FA: P1. Craig Sloss P2. David Duke, 1990

15Trad 18m
3 Reborn

Up the short corner. he unnamed Tim Cartwright route 1991. Now with 3 ringbolts in the corner up high. Start as for Quart De Seicle etc. Up past vege and then into the steepish short corner. Finish at the anchors of Alpine ie. trend left at the top after you come out of the corner.

17Sport
4 C 15Sport 15m
5 * Planetarium

Up the arete At arete on the right hand side of the compact wall Thug to block, pull through on finger jugs to balancy finish

FA: Simon Vaughan

19Sport 8m, 3
6 Piccolo Luna

3m right of P2 of B. A tough little unit. Up nice compact wall past 2 RBs to DRB lower off.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2004

20Sport 8m, 2
7 Top Shelf Goodies

Use the crack to gain the first bolt. Make a long reach left to great pockets and finish on jugs to the top. Over too soon. Start just left of the crack.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

18Sport 8m, 4
8 Upper Class

Hard pulls through the scoop. Great jugs to the top. Start below the left hand arete of the sundeck ledge.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

19Sport 8m, 3
9 Top Notch

Hard pulls through the scoop. Great jugs to the top. Start below the left hand arete of the sundeck ledge.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

17Sport 8m, 3
10 Quart de Seicle

Start: Up the B gully to the platform to clip the first ringbolt. Pull through overhang then move right (crux). Up past RB's and FH's to lower offs.

Start: Below vege gully and obvious hanging headwall

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

19Sport 15m, 6
11 * Deception

A nice fingery wall. Up QDS however trend left at overhang to RB on headwall, then up past FH and another RB to same lower off as QDS.

Start: Up vege gully as for QDS

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

19Sport 15m, 6
12 * Deception Variant 20Sport 15m
13 * Kiddies Chorus

The left of the 3 routes on the amazing high headwall Up vege gully as for Deception and QDS Up the leaning yellow corner and step right onto the mini arete and then onto the headwall

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

20Sport 25m, 8
14 D 17Sport 15m
15 D Piker's Variant 15Unknown 15m
16 * Alpine

Follow the ringbolts up to the prow up high At ringbolt about4-5 metres above track level Up through the overlaps with a bit of high stepping action, to an almost vertical finish

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

15Sport 20m
17 In the Inn of the Sixth Happiness 13Sport 20m
18 Snooze and You Lose

Up to the little closed seam/corner on surprising holds. Soloed by Garth Miller 27/12/91 5 metres left of In the Inn of the Sixth Happiness Up to the closed little corner/seam on surprising holds. A little mossy in parts due to absolutely no traffic since the historic solo in 1991

FA: Garth Miller - Solo, 1991

14Sport 20m
19 Parents in Pain

Re equipped with steel. Up the stepped looking arete passing 6RB's to lower offs several kilometres back from the top.

Start: At blunt arete 15 metres left of 'Alpine'

FA: Garth Miller, Jay Williams, 1991

15Sport 20m, 6
20 Parents in Pain Pussy Variant 13Sport 20m
21 First Born

Start 2 metres left of Parents. Pull through the slot and ramble to the steep all. Keep right on the jugs for a fair grade. Finish at Parents lower offs.

FA: matttranter, 2011

17Sport 20m, 8
22 Thomas the Tank

Start under the over hung crack. Lock off in the crack and dyno for the thank god hold on the lip.

FA: matttranter, 2011

20Sport 10m, 6
23 Everything Audrey

Same death start as Pre Pimple Pop

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009

16Sport 12m
24 * Pre Pimple Pop / Pre Pimple Pop (needs rebolting)

A fantastic overhang, one of the most popular routes in the Southern Highlands. Start 7m L of PIP under obvious imposing overhang. Up onto slab via L or R (BR) then through overhang to pull lip (crux) lower off U anchor or continue powering through juggy choss! 5 BR's including U Anchor.

Start 7m L of PIP under the obvious imposing overhang.

A fantastic overhang, one of the most popular routes in the Southern Highlands. Up onto slab via L or R (BR) then through overhang to pull lip (crux). Lower off, or continue powering through juggy choss. 5 BR inc anchor.

FA: Garth Miller, Tim Cartwright, Craig Sloss, 1991

19Sport 15m, 5
25 Judas Escariot

Start 2m L of PPP. Named after Tim Cartwright went under Craig Slosses nose and stole his project! Rebolted with 8 rings to lower offs.

Start: Left of Pre 'Pimple' Pop at jugs at track level

FA: Tim Cartwright, 1991

20Sport 10m
26 ** Mango Tango

Start in small corner L of JE. Absolutely brilliant top

moves once you've bumbled over the bulge. 4 new RB to Lower Offs.

FA: Garth Miller, 1991

22Sport 15m
27 F 14Unknown 15m
28 G (Project) 25Unknown 15m
29 Drill Attack

Start 15m L of MT at RB. Up to the L to power through

overhang and tricky mantle to easy ground. Good buying at 23.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pauluffchenko, 1997

23Sport 15m
30 * Manchester United

1m left of PDA. Boulder start to first RB then up past 3RBs to mantle through to another RB to DRB lower off shared with DA.

20Sport 15m
31 * The Big Day Out

Stick clip first FH. Up wall and clip 2nd, nice rest here b4 a very large reach move to 3rd FH. Continue up head wall past more FH's to chains in cave. New RB's where you need them.

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

24Sport 15m
32 *** Quickie Quim Fill

Pure Hill GOLD !! Start 3m L of TBDO (just around the corner). Hard moves to start with then sustained moves to double ring lower off. One of the best routes at MtA.

FA: Graham Hill, 1997

25Sport 12m
33 ** Burnt Moon

Up Quickie for the first 4 bolts to the cauliflower finger jug for the clip of the 5th bolt to the right. Trend up and right, negotiate the bulge then towards the arete to DRB LO

Set by Simon Vaughan, 2013

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2013

24Sport 12m, 6
34 The Dead Horse Project (Bundy)

Up QQ and past crux till 4th bolt, then move left on great pockets clipping a bolt. Then enter the crux on SA and up to new lower offs.

FA: Project - Jason Lammers

25Sport 15m
35 ** Suspended Animation

A fantastic route up a superb line. 3m L of QQ. Stick dip first bolt, batman up to obvious jug, then up the crimpy wall to the crux past the last bolt.

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

24Sport 10m
36 Green Gate

Stem up corner to start then trend right to anchors. Start just left of SA at the green grassy 'gate'. Open the gate !! and pull up the little corner to the pedestal. Edges, slopes and layaways up vertical wall after stepping right from the corner when you can.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012

21Sport 12m
37 E 10Unknown 20m
38 H ?(S)Sport 10m
39 I ?Unknown 10m
40 Ramble Scramble 5Unknown 10m

1.5. The Boulder 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown and Sport
Description:© (bundybear)

Downhill from SA you can glimpse a boulder through the trees. There are only three average climbs on it. They are all junk so some1 else can update the database.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Posture Correction

Left hand arete of boulder.

FA: Ken McKeon, 2007

15Sport 10m
2 J Posture (link up) 16Unknown 9m
3 J carrots with chain on lowest 16Unknown 9m
4 K carrots and protruding hanger 16Unknown 7m
5 J 10Unknown 10m
6 I'd Rather be Gardening 12Unknown 10m
7 K 16Sport 7m

1.6. The Alcove 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

Small and broken walls before you reach the Big Cave area. fun low grade and short routes. Lots of moss and a little bit of bad rock so take care.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fat Like Butter

Nice jug pulling start and then up the scoup. Watch out for the band of bad rock at 2/3 height. Start just left of the big tree.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

16Sport 9m, 5
2 Welcome to Moss Vegas.

Short and balancy. will be Ok once the moss wears off a bit! Hard 21.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

21Sport Project 8m, 5
3 Grounds for Divorce

A brief bulge and then it is slab city. Remember, friends don't let friends do slabs!

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

16Sport 9m, 5
4 Fright Night 3

Up layback crack forking right at the crack junction.

FFA: Simon Vaughan, 2014

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2014

7Trad 10m
5 Back to the Future

Climb up the Arete. Short and Sharp. Could well have been in the really old guide book as a Top roped boulder problem V0/1. Start in the alcove below the Arete.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

20Sport 8m, 4

1.7. The Main Cave 30 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad
Description:© (bundybear)

The obvious massive cave with the high rooves. The routes on the right side of the cave on the buttress are newly rebolted with rings and are all very good. There is awesome pumpy roof climbing in the main cave.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 L / Untitled Route 16Sport 7m
2 M 8Unknown 10m
3 N 17Unknown 10m
4 O 25Unknown 10m
5 P 14Unknown 10m
6 * El Captain Pants

Rebolted 9/10/2010. Up little closed corner passing 3 RB's and surmount top of corner to clip the the first headwall RB of "Three Wise Monkey's" then step right. Up the tricky start and headwall.

How the boys arrived at grade 17 for this route I don't know?

FA: Flint Duxfield, Geordie Williamson, 1998

21Sport 20m, 8
7 ** Three Wise Monkeys

Newly rebolted so start up the little closed corner as for "El Captain Pants" and straight up the headwall passing a combination of 8 RB's and hangers.

FA: Geordie Williamson, Flint Duxfield, 1998

22Sport 20m, 8
8 * What Would You Say if I Said to You that this Gun was Loaded?

Newly rebolted. Step left after climbing the bolted little corner and up nice orange and featured headwall to lower offs. Beautiful really. Up closed little corner as for "Three Wise Monkeys" Some hold searching required mid height

FA: G. Williamson. F. Duxfield, 1998

19Sport 20m, 8
9 Downhill Demise

Up little corner step left and up line of bolts right of Airy not scary. Nice longish moves. Up little bolted corner as for Airy Not Scary Nice moves up flakes, bit of friction when lowering off, unclip some draws on the way down if some else is doing it with the draws in!

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

17Sport 15m, 7
10 ** Airy Not Scary

Up little bolted corner from ground level and traverse left and up on RB's right of "White Limbo" on the headwall, on holds that you know you just won't let go of. This route finishes up the second last line of rings up the headwall looking right to left above the main cave.Start up bolted closed little corner as for the previous routes

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

18Sport 20m, 7
11 ** White Limbo

Fantastic jugging through a small section of the main roof. Start 3m Downhill from arête at traverse line. Traverse L past #1 SLCD placement to 2 BR's into small roof (BR) then up and left past 2 FH's to double rings. 5 BR's.

FA: Garth Miller, 1991

19Trad 20m
12 ** White Limbo Direct

Start as for O. Up as for O to join WL at traverse line. Then as for WL.

FA: G Williamson, F Duxfield., 2000

19Trad 20m
13 ** Opiate

A very nice climb! Start as for WWYSIISTYTTGWL(!) up to clip new RB, one move up then traverse L to BR up into cave as for WL then fire straight up wall to chains.

FA: G. Williamson. F. Duxfield., 2000

19Sport 20m
14 * Sensei Woo

"Batman" up to obvious good incut holds, then heave up to slab and up headwall as for "Airy Not Scary" Underneath big grey bulge 5 metres right of Project - Simon Vaughan All you need is belief and a little bit of Kung Fu

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2013

21Sport 15m
15 * Desparate Liaisons

Start: Left of O, below middle of roof. Stick clip first BR, then dyno and slab up to roof. Out the lovely roof to double RB lower off just over lip. 7 RBs in total.

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

27Sport 15m
16 Project - Simon Vaughan

After heaving up the same start as "Desperate Liasons" head right to get into the obvious hole and slap like a madman to get into the big scoop above and right, up mini arete, then finish up "Airy Not Scary". Hardest thing I have put up, it might be a giveaway to a cranker

Sport 20m
17 * Ultine Demence

Start: 4m left of DL. Up to 3rd BR, then move right and up past 5 more BRs (stay right) to chain. The last bolt is hard to clip, and is safe to skip on the RP attempt.

FA: Garth Miller, 1993

27Sport 15m
18 ** Controlled Hysteria

Start as for UD (in the middle of the cave), up past a carrot and continue up to the 6th hanger (has mallion attached). Then move left to finish on chain shared with DdF.

FA: Garth Miller, 1991

25Sport 15m
19 * Diagonal Hysteria

Start up TCD to join DdF up till 5th BR then go straight ahead past another bolt to join CH.

25Sport 15m
20 *** Diagonal du Fou

A good route to get pumped senseless on! Start as for CH, at 3rd bolt (2nd hanger) move to the left and up and over roof. Milk the rest and traverse up on the lip of the cave past squillions of bolts to chain shared with CH.

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

23Sport 15m
21 The Cave Direct (Project) 21Sport 13m
22 The Cave Direct

Start 3m L of the starts for DdF and CH. Move up on slopers and mantle to join DdF, the up past 3 bolts and continue straight up to chain shared with previous climbs.

FA: G. Williamson. F. Duxfield., 2000

21Sport 15m
23 Out on a Limb

A good way to experience massive pump without the crux of DdF, pity about the grotty start. Start 10m L of TCD move R with Natural Protection to sit down under roof. Out as for DdF.

FA: F Duxfield, 1997

21Trad 10m
24 Au Cheval

On the outside wall of the cave

FA: V Wills, 2008

19Sport 15m
25 Fractured Fantasy

The next one along

FA: V Wills, R Wills, 2008

18Sport 10m
26 Fat Like Butter

Nice jug pulling start and then up the scoup. Watch out for the band of bad rock at 2/3 height. Start just left of the big tree.

16Sport 9m, 4
27 Welcome to Moss Vagus

Tiny crimps. Short and sweet.

21Sport 8m
28 * Back to the Future

Climb up the Arete. Short and Sharp. Could well have been in the really old guide book as a Top roped boulder problem V0/1. Start in the alcove below the Arete.

20Sport 8m
29 Fright of the Bumbly Bee 12Unknown 40m
30 Empire of the Senseless 17Unknown 10m

1.8. Beyond the Cave 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 People Everywhere 19Unknown 15m
2 Everyday People 17Unknown 15m
3 Weird People 19Unknown 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5 Ramble Scramble Unknown 10m 1.4. Central Area
7 Fright Night 3 Trad 10m 1.6. The Alcove
8 M Unknown 10m 1.7. The Main Cave
10 E Unknown 20m 1.4. Central Area
J Unknown 10m 1.5. The Boulder
12 Digit Dave Trad 15m 1.3. Vox Populi Wall
I'd Rather be Gardening Unknown 10m 1.5. The Boulder
Fright of the Bumbly Bee Unknown 40m 1.7. The Main Cave
13 In the Inn of the Sixth Happiness Sport 20m 1.4. Central Area
Parents in Pain Pussy Variant Sport 20m 1.4. Central Area
14 Selective Cleansing Sport 10m, 3 1.3. Vox Populi Wall
F Unknown 15m 1.4. Central Area
Open to Public Scrutiny Sport 20m 1.4. Central Area
Snooze and You Lose Sport 20m 1.4. Central Area
P Unknown 10m 1.7. The Main Cave
15 * Alpine Sport 20m 1.4. Central Area
* B Trad 18m 1.4. Central Area
C Sport 15m 1.4. Central Area
D Piker's Variant Unknown 15m 1.4. Central Area
Parents in Pain Sport 20m, 6 1.4. Central Area
Posture Correction Sport 10m 1.5. The Boulder
16 Corner From Hell Trad 15m 1.2. Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall
Michael in Shorts Trad 15m 1.3. Vox Populi Wall
** Vox Fox Unknown 15m 1.3. Vox Populi Wall
Everything Audrey Sport 12m 1.4. Central Area
J Posture (link up) Unknown 9m 1.5. The Boulder
J carrots with chain on lowest Unknown 9m 1.5. The Boulder
K Sport 7m 1.5. The Boulder
K carrots and protruding hanger Unknown 7m 1.5. The Boulder
Fat Like Butter Sport 9m, 5 1.6. The Alcove
Grounds for Divorce Sport 9m, 5 1.6. The Alcove
Fat Like Butter Sport 9m, 4 1.7. The Main Cave
L Sport 7m 1.7. The Main Cave
17 * The Red Room Sport 16m 1.2. Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall
** Dorothy the Dinosaur Sport 16m 1.3. Vox Populi Wall
D Sport 15m 1.4. Central Area
First Born Sport 20m, 8 1.4. Central Area
Reborn Sport 1.4. Central Area
Top Notch Sport 8m, 3 1.4. Central Area
Downhill Demise Sport 15m, 7 1.7. The Main Cave
Empire of the Senseless Unknown 10m 1.7. The Main Cave
N Unknown 10m 1.7. The Main Cave
Everyday People Unknown 15m 1.8. Beyond the Cave
18 * Courner From Heaven Sport 20m, 7 1.2. Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall
* Michael in Vox Trad 16m 1.2. Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall
Pinocchio's Nose Trad 18m 1.2. Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall
Michael in Shorts Variant Trad 15m 1.3. Vox Populi Wall
** Vox Populi Trad 15m 1.3. Vox Populi Wall
Top Shelf Goodies Sport 8m, 4 1.4. Central Area
** Airy Not Scary Sport 20m, 7 1.7. The Main Cave
Fractured Fantasy Sport 10m 1.7. The Main Cave
19 Snuffs Enuff Sport 12m 1.1. The First Cave
* Hugh Town Sport 15m 1.2. Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall
* Mousetrap Sport 16m 1.2. Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall
Trollberg McDougall Sport 16m 1.2. Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall
* Hugh Town Sport 15m 1.3. Vox Populi Wall
* Deception Sport 15m, 6 1.4. Central Area
* Planetarium Sport 8m, 3 1.4. Central Area
* Pre Pimple Pop Sport 15m, 5 1.4. Central Area
Quart de Seicle Sport 15m, 6 1.4. Central Area
Upper Class Sport 8m, 3 1.4. Central Area
Au Cheval Sport 15m 1.7. The Main Cave
** Opiate Sport 20m 1.7. The Main Cave
* What Would You Say if I Said to You that this Gun was Loaded? Sport 20m, 8 1.7. The Main Cave
** White Limbo Trad 20m 1.7. The Main Cave
** White Limbo Direct Trad 20m 1.7. The Main Cave
People Everywhere Unknown 15m 1.8. Beyond the Cave
Weird People Unknown 15m 1.8. Beyond the Cave
20 Chicken Sport 16m 1.1. The First Cave
* Chook Sport 16m 1.1. The First Cave
Death of a New Car Salesman Sport 10m 1.1. The First Cave
* Galvanise Sport 10m 1.1. The First Cave
Suprise Sport 15m 1.2. Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall
** Iclimb Sport 15m 1.3. Vox Populi Wall
* Silver Fox Sport 16m 1.3. Vox Populi Wall
** Three and a Half Thousand Sport 16m 1.3. Vox Populi Wall
* Deception Variant Sport 15m 1.4. Central Area
Judas Escariot Sport 10m 1.4. Central Area
* Kiddies Chorus Sport 25m, 8 1.4. Central Area
* Manchester United Sport 15m 1.4. Central Area
Piccolo Luna Sport 8m, 2 1.4. Central Area
Thomas the Tank Sport 10m, 6 1.4. Central Area
Back to the Future Sport 8m, 4 1.6. The Alcove
* Back to the Future Sport 8m 1.7. The Main Cave
21 * Bruised Poonarnee Sport 14m 1.1. The First Cave
Jello Sport 14m 1.1. The First Cave
Trollberg Sport 16m 1.2. Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall
Green Gate Sport 12m 1.4. Central Area
Welcome to Moss Vegas. Sport Project 8m, 5 1.6. The Alcove
* El Captain Pants Sport 20m, 8 1.7. The Main Cave
Out on a Limb Trad 10m 1.7. The Main Cave
* Sensei Woo Sport 15m 1.7. The Main Cave
The Cave Direct Sport 15m 1.7. The Main Cave
The Cave Direct (Project) Sport 13m 1.7. The Main Cave
Welcome to Moss Vagus Sport 8m 1.7. The Main Cave
22 * Last Stand Sport 12m, 5 1.1. The First Cave
* Progress Comes to Shitsville Sport 10m 1.1. The First Cave
* The Nose in 4 Minutes Sport 9m 1.1. The First Cave
* Sentry Duty Sport 10m 1.2. Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall
Vox Populi Lite Trad 16m 1.2. Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall
** Mango Tango Sport 15m 1.4. Central Area
** Three Wise Monkeys Sport 20m, 8 1.7. The Main Cave
23 Dancing with Deborah Sport 12m 1.1. The First Cave
*** Los Hermanos de la Denitente Sport 10m 1.1. The First Cave
Drill Attack Sport 15m 1.4. Central Area
*** Diagonal du Fou Sport 15m 1.7. The Main Cave
24 * Electric Gut Stick Gobblers Sport 10m 1.1. The First Cave
** Los Hermanos de la Denitente Extension Sport 15m 1.1. The First Cave
The Nose in 4 Minutes - Extension Sport 16m 1.1. The First Cave
** Burnt Moon Sport 12m, 6 1.4. Central Area
** Suspended Animation Sport 10m 1.4. Central Area
* The Big Day Out Sport 15m 1.4. Central Area
25 * Electric Gut Stick Gobblers Extension Sport 15m, 6 1.1. The First Cave
* Rooster Sport 16m 1.1. The First Cave
Score the Lazy Route Sport 10m, 4 1.2. Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall
G (Project) Unknown 15m 1.4. Central Area
*** Quickie Quim Fill Sport 12m 1.4. Central Area
The Dead Horse Project (Bundy) Sport 15m 1.4. Central Area
** Controlled Hysteria Sport 15m 1.7. The Main Cave
* Diagonal Hysteria Sport 15m 1.7. The Main Cave
O Unknown 10m 1.7. The Main Cave
26 *** Biafra Sport 12m 1.1. The First Cave
Top Hat Sport 16m 1.1. The First Cave
27 * Desparate Liaisons Sport 15m 1.7. The Main Cave
* Ultine Demence Sport 15m 1.7. The Main Cave
28 ** Shot of Spirit Sport 12m 1.1. The First Cave
? Project - Simon Vaughan Sport 20m 1.7. The Main Cave
I Unknown 10m 1.4. Central Area
?(S) H Sport 10m 1.4. Central Area