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Description

The largest massif of rock in south east 'Queensland'.

© (gremlin)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
East Peak Area
19
77
180m
4
7
440m
3
0
170m
West Peak Area
-
0
0
East Face Area
-
0
0

Routes

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Grade Route
8

Upward and onward. Enjoy the jungle gym on the ;ast two pitches.

9
22 R * The Governor Sport 320m

The pitch lengths haven't been verified, so don't rely on there accuracy. Also some grades are also not accurate and need to be verified.

This climb is a mountaineering style adventure up through the highest and steepest part of Mt Barney's imposing 'East Face'. This is a very sustained route with very few easy pitches. The individual pitches themselves are also sustained. This route has mega exposure, good falls, and a lot of rotten rock that should make your belayer shake in their pants. At the end of the Governor it will leave you wondering why on earth someone would bolt this line, while you nurse your very sore body.

At points this climb lacks line, but what ever the case it definitely required vision and effort to establish. This highest climb in 'Queensland' is not for your average sport climber, and would best suit those with a sense of adventure and a taste for mountaineering.

Start: From the SE Ridge, 250m below the summit you'll find a nice bivey spot. From here find your way to the south of the base of the 'East Face'. You can get here via a 30m abseil or 10 minutes of bush bashing and rock scrambling. From here you head towards the large rock apron and follow that down, and then you'll come to a part which gets exposed. Here you climb straight up too a bushy ledge (tricky moves) and easily follow the rock along for 50m. Here you'll find the start of the climb. In places the way is marked with tape.

  1. 25m (19) Starts nice and hard straight of the deck. Follow bolts up over multiple cruxes to rings on a very small ledge.

  2. 25m (20) Head out right around bulge. Climb straight over it if you're feeling strong. Move up over slab and into rotten vertical climbing to rings on a small ledge.

  3. 20m (20) Follow bolts through two overhangs and slabs in the middle. The first overhang can be easily avoided by climbing right. Belay at small ledge.

  4. 25m (16) This pitch continues up the rock cone then breaks right towards the main face and up a chimney. Beware of loose blocks within the chimney that funnel down onto the two pitches below. Near the top the route breaks out right of the chimney to a ledge with precariously balanced tree.

  5. 15m (18) Traverse out and up to the right over delicate slabs. Just before the belay beware of the fridge size loose block. Try not to touch it as you climb under it. 'Small' stance at the belay. This pitch requires a confident seconder as the falls would be very exciting for them. Its best not to link the next pitch with this one.

  6. 20m (21) This pitch has good bolting, nice falls, and wicked exposure. Definitely a stand-out pitch. Climb up through some sustained and interesting vertical face climbing. As always on this route, beware of loose blocks throughout.

  7. 20m (21) Death blocks, overhangs, and scrubery. Climb up to the roof and clip bolt just over the lip. Don't touch the loose blocks under the overhang unless you want to kill your seconder and yourself. Tricky moves over the roof and continue for a couple of bolts. When it starts to get too vegetated, bust a move out left through the overhang, past your last bolt. From here you should see the belay rings. A few more powerful moves will get you to the semi-hanging belay.

  8. 20m (18) Hard moves straight of the deck, with ugly falls if you don't make it to the first bolt. Continue up through some interesting vertical climbing over broken rock. 'Surprise' surprise, beware of more loose rock.

  9. 25m (14) The first give-me pitch! Slight traverse out right through vegetation. Beware of ledge fall potential at a few points. The pitch ends at the top of the large centre overhangs a good sized vegetated ledge.

  10. 15m (17) Tricky climbing up to a good belay stance.

  11. 20m (21) More tricky climbing that traverses out slight right to a large corner. Some crazy moves will find you on the other side. Continue straight up (next bolt is hidden) to belay rings. As you climb this pitch the Popes Nose bivey ledge is off to the right.

  12. 20m (20) Climb up through the corner over a slight overhang. At some points you can climb out right to avoid the difficult parts. Continue to the top over lots of loose rock and vegetation. The next belay stance is a good size located underneath the summit overhangs.

  13. 20m (22) Climb up to the right through the rotten rock. Difficult moves through the overhang with good falls, but more terrible rock. Clip a few more bolts and then straight up over a tricky mantle. Here you get the full exposure of the 'East Face'. Continue up to the belay.

  14. 20m (22) Follow the ramp to the below the last overhang. This section has some run-outs and bad fall potential. Tricky moves up through the overhang. Belay at small stance above tree.

  15. 30m (14) Nice slab climbing to the belay rings. This pitch finishes 2-meters below the bushwalking track.

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
Lower Portals Boulder
1
0
2m

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