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Table of contents

1. Mt Barney 40 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.675111, -28.276829

Description:© (gremlin)

The largest massif of rock in south east 'Queensland'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 East Face Chimney

Upward and onward. Enjoy the jungle gym on the ;ast two pitches.

Trad
2 * The Governor

The pitch lengths haven't been verified, so don't rely on there accuracy. Also some grades are also not accurate and need to be verified.

This climb is a mountaineering style adventure up through the highest and steepest part of Mt Barney's imposing 'East Face'. This is a very sustained route with very few easy pitches. The individual pitches themselves are also sustained. This route has mega exposure, good falls, and a lot of rotten rock that should make your belayer shake in their pants. At the end of the Governor it will leave you wondering why on earth someone would bolt this line, while you nurse your very sore body.

At points this climb lacks line, but what ever the case it definitely required vision and effort to establish. This highest climb in 'Queensland' is not for your average sport climber, and would best suit those with a sense of adventure and a taste for mountaineering.

Start: From the SE Ridge, 250m below the summit you'll find a nice bivey spot. From here find your way to the south of the base of the 'East Face'. You can get here via a 30m abseil or 10 minutes of bush bashing and rock scrambling. From here you head towards the large rock apron and follow that down, and then you'll come to a part which gets exposed. Here you climb straight up too a bushy ledge (tricky moves) and easily follow the rock along for 50m. Here you'll find the start of the climb. In places the way is marked with tape.

  1. 25m (19) Starts nice and hard straight of the deck. Follow bolts up over multiple cruxes to rings on a very small ledge.

  2. 25m (20) Head out right around bulge. Climb straight over it if you're feeling strong. Move up over slab and into rotten vertical climbing to rings on a small ledge.

  3. 20m (20) Follow bolts through two overhangs and slabs in the middle. The first overhang can be easily avoided by climbing right. Belay at small ledge.

  4. 25m (16) This pitch continues up the rock cone then breaks right towards the main face and up a chimney. Beware of loose blocks within the chimney that funnel down onto the two pitches below. Near the top the route breaks out right of the chimney to a ledge with precariously balanced tree.

  5. 15m (18) Traverse out and up to the right over delicate slabs. Just before the belay beware of the fridge size loose block. Try not to touch it as you climb under it. 'Small' stance at the belay. This pitch requires a confident seconder as the falls would be very exciting for them. Its best not to link the next pitch with this one.

  6. 20m (21) This pitch has good bolting, nice falls, and wicked exposure. Definitely a stand-out pitch. Climb up through some sustained and interesting vertical face climbing. As always on this route, beware of loose blocks throughout.

  7. 20m (21) Death blocks, overhangs, and scrubery. Climb up to the roof and clip bolt just over the lip. Don't touch the loose blocks under the overhang unless you want to kill your seconder and yourself. Tricky moves over the roof and continue for a couple of bolts. When it starts to get too vegetated, bust a move out left through the overhang, past your last bolt. From here you should see the belay rings. A few more powerful moves will get you to the semi-hanging belay.

  8. 20m (18) Hard moves straight of the deck, with ugly falls if you don't make it to the first bolt. Continue up through some interesting vertical climbing over broken rock. 'Surprise' surprise, beware of more loose rock.

  9. 25m (14) The first give-me pitch! Slight traverse out right through vegetation. Beware of ledge fall potential at a few points. The pitch ends at the top of the large centre overhangs a good sized vegetated ledge.

  10. 15m (17) Tricky climbing up to a good belay stance.

  11. 20m (21) More tricky climbing that traverses out slight right to a large corner. Some crazy moves will find you on the other side. Continue straight up (next bolt is hidden) to belay rings. As you climb this pitch the Popes Nose bivey ledge is off to the right.

  12. 20m (20) Climb up through the corner over a slight overhang. At some points you can climb out right to avoid the difficult parts. Continue to the top over lots of loose rock and vegetation. The next belay stance is a good size located underneath the summit overhangs.

  13. 20m (22) Climb up to the right through the rotten rock. Difficult moves through the overhang with good falls, but more terrible rock. Clip a few more bolts and then straight up over a tricky mantle. Here you get the full exposure of the 'East Face'. Continue up to the belay.

  14. 20m (22) Follow the ramp to the below the last overhang. This section has some run-outs and bad fall potential. Tricky moves up through the overhang. Belay at small stance above tree.

  15. 30m (14) Nice slab climbing to the belay rings. This pitch finishes 2-meters below the bushwalking track.

22 RSport 320m

1.1. East Peak 19 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** South-East Ridge 1Unknown 1000m Andrew Meadows 6 years ago

Extremely enjoyable throughout!

craig pohlman 7 years ago

SO SO long

2 East Face Route

FA: J. Tillack, D. Groom & L. Wood; J Tillack, L Wood, D Groom; John Tillack, Les Wood, Donn Groom, 1966

17Unknown 300m Paul

got into an epic,,,,,,,,, dont start climbing at 11am in winter... and yeah...17?!

3 * The Governor 22Sport 320m Trent Williams 4 years ago

A mountaineering style adventure up through the highest and steepest part of Mt Barney's imposing...

4 The Governor p1 19Sport 25m Trent Williams 4 years ago

Starts nice and hard straight of the deck. Follow bolts up over multiple cruxes to rings on a ver...

5 The Governor p2 20Sport 25m Trent Williams 4 years ago

Head out right around bulge. Climb straight over it if you're feeling strong. Move up over slab a...

6 The Governor p3 20Sport 20m Trent Williams 4 years ago

Follow bolts through two overhangs and slabs in the middle. The first overhang can be easily avoi...

7 The Governor p4 16Sport 25m Trent Williams 4 years ago

This pitch continues up the rock cone then breaks right towards the main face and up a chimney. B...

8 The Governor p5 18Sport 15m Trent Williams 4 years ago

Traverse out and up to the right over delicate slabs. Just before the belay beware of the fridge ...

Trent Williams 4 years ago

Traverse out and up to the right over delicate slabs. Just before the belay beware of the fridge ...

9 * The Governor p6 21Sport 20m Trent Williams 4 years ago

This pitch has good bolting, nice falls, and wicked exposure. Definitely a stand-out pitch. Climb...

10 * The Governor p7 21Sport 20m Trent Williams 4 years ago

Death blocks, overhangs, and scrubery. Climb up to the roof and clip bolt just over the lip. Don'...

11 The Governor p8 18Sport 20m Trent Williams 4 years ago

Hard moves straight of the deck, with ugly falls if you don't make it to the first bolt. Continue...

12 The Governor p9 14Sport 25m Trent Williams 4 years ago

The first give-me pitch! Slight traverse out right through vegetation. Beware of ledge fall poten...

13 The Governor p10 17Sport 15m Trent Williams 4 years ago

Tricky climbing up to a good belay stance.

14 * The Governor p11 21Sport 20m Trent Williams 4 years ago

More tricky climbing that traverses out slight right to a large corner. Some crazy moves will fin...

15 The Governor p12 20Sport 20m Trent Williams 4 years ago

Climb up through the corner over a slight overhang. At some points you can climb out right to avo...

16 * The Governor p13 22Sport 20m Trent Williams 4 years ago

Climb up to the right through the rotten rock. Difficult moves through the overhang with good fal...

Trent Williams 4 years ago

Climb up to the right through the rotten rock. Difficult moves through the overhang with good fal...

17 The Governor p14 22Sport 20m Trent Williams 4 years ago

Follow the ramp to the below the last overhang. This section has some run-outs and bad fall poten...

18 The Governor p15 14Sport 30m Trent Williams 4 years ago

Nice slab climbing to the belay rings. This pitch finishes 2-meters below the bushwalking track.

19 ** Logan's Ridge 3Unknown 1500m Bruce McDougall 4 years ago

Awesome day out!

Andrew Meadows 6 years ago

It's like taking an elevator up the mountain. Great route!

1.2. Leaning Peak 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Leaning Peak North Face Route

FA: C. Meadows, M. Meadows & J. Shera

13Unknown 300m
2 *** Leaning Peak Ridge

830m long

5 RTrad 830m Andrew Meadows 5 years ago

The ultimate classic Mt Barney climb. Extremely enjoyable throughout with spectacular views.

Terry Svingen 7 years ago

8 hrs return this time. One cam placed.

3 Plum Bob

FA: S. Tanner & R. Allen

13Unknown 310m
4 The Barney Couloir 17Unknown 300m

1.3. Isolated Peak 3 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Isolated Peak East Face Route

FA: R. Rankin & T. Low

13Unknown 130m
2 Grotesque Gully

Up the obvious rightward leaning gully.

13Trad
3 Unknown 18Trad 210m

1.4. West Peak 0 routes in Area

1.5. North Peak 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 North Ridge 2Unknown Chris Ceb 5 years ago

Great climb, a little exposed towards the end. Hard to find a point to cross between north peak t...

2 Rocky Gully 2Unknown Terry Svingen 7 years ago

This one is so slippery when wet.

Terry Svingen 7 years ago

Easy walk when dry, horrendously hard when wet.

1.6. East Side Barney Lodge 10 routes in Area

Summary:
Boulder and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Brian's climb 17Unknown 45m tyson adam burns 11 years ago

Goes up and awesome crack,has some loose rock but with some cleaning a classic

2 ** Short and Steep V6Boulder
3 * The kids climb 3Unknown 8m tyson adam burns 8 years ago

The knobly boulder slab

4 *** Deception V3Boulder 3m tyson adam burns 8 years ago

On an egg, in the boulder field to the SE of barney lodge

5 Fern Gully 13Unknown 25m tyson adam burns 11 years ago

E of Lodge, No gear after first third

6 * Snake Mourn V3Boulder 3m tyson adam burns 11 years ago

3 or so problems on the same boulder. E of lodge

7 ** First buttress Traverse V2Boulder 15m tyson adam burns 8 years ago

SE boulder field

8 * Brad's Problem V2Boulder 4m tyson adam burns 8 years ago

As above

9 * Bare foot bandit V1Boulder 5m tyson adam burns 8 years ago

As above

10 One move up V0-Boulder tyson adam burns 8 years ago

As above

1.7. East Face 0 routes in Area

Description:© (gremlin)

The big obvious face below the east peak.

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
1 ** South-East Ridge Unknown 1000m 1.1. East Peak
2 North Ridge Unknown 1.5. North Peak
Rocky Gully Unknown 1.5. North Peak
3 ** Logan's Ridge Unknown 1500m 1.1. East Peak
* The kids climb Unknown 8m 1.6. East Side Barney Lodge
5 *** Leaning Peak Ridge Trad 830m 1.2. Leaning Peak
13 Leaning Peak North Face Route Unknown 300m 1.2. Leaning Peak
Plum Bob Unknown 310m 1.2. Leaning Peak
Grotesque Gully Trad 1.3. Isolated Peak
Isolated Peak East Face Route Unknown 130m 1.3. Isolated Peak
Fern Gully Unknown 25m 1.6. East Side Barney Lodge
V0- One move up Boulder 1.6. East Side Barney Lodge
14 The Governor p15 Sport 30m 1.1. East Peak
The Governor p9 Sport 25m 1.1. East Peak
16 The Governor p4 Sport 25m 1.1. East Peak
17 East Face Route Unknown 300m 1.1. East Peak
The Governor p10 Sport 15m 1.1. East Peak
The Barney Couloir Unknown 300m 1.2. Leaning Peak
** Brian's climb Unknown 45m 1.6. East Side Barney Lodge
18 The Governor p5 Sport 15m 1.1. East Peak
The Governor p8 Sport 20m 1.1. East Peak
Unknown Trad 210m 1.3. Isolated Peak
19 The Governor p1 Sport 25m 1.1. East Peak
V1 * Bare foot bandit Boulder 5m 1.6. East Side Barney Lodge
20 The Governor p12 Sport 20m 1.1. East Peak
The Governor p2 Sport 25m 1.1. East Peak
The Governor p3 Sport 20m 1.1. East Peak
V2 * Brad's Problem Boulder 4m 1.6. East Side Barney Lodge
** First buttress Traverse Boulder 15m 1.6. East Side Barney Lodge
21 * The Governor p11 Sport 20m 1.1. East Peak
* The Governor p6 Sport 20m 1.1. East Peak
* The Governor p7 Sport 20m 1.1. East Peak
22 * The Governor Sport 320m 1. Mt Barney
* The Governor Sport 320m 1.1. East Peak
* The Governor p13 Sport 20m 1.1. East Peak
The Governor p14 Sport 20m 1.1. East Peak
V3 *** Deception Boulder 3m 1.6. East Side Barney Lodge
* Snake Mourn Boulder 3m 1.6. East Side Barney Lodge
V6 ** Short and Steep Boulder 1.6. East Side Barney Lodge
? East Face Chimney Trad 1. Mt Barney