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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalitySport, Unknown and other styles
Long/Lat: 152.675111, -28.276829
- Description:© (gremlin)
The largest massif of rock in south east 'Queensland'.
East Face Chimney
Upward and onward. Enjoy the jungle gym on the ;ast two pitches.
The pitch lengths haven't been verified, so don't rely on there accuracy. Also some grades are also not accurate and need to be verified.
This climb is a mountaineering style adventure up through the highest and steepest part of Mt Barney's imposing 'East Face'. This is a very sustained route with very few easy pitches. The individual pitches themselves are also sustained. This route has mega exposure, good falls, and a lot of rotten rock that should make your belayer shake in their pants. At the end of the Governor it will leave you wondering why on earth someone would bolt this line, while you nurse your very sore body.
At points this climb lacks line, but what ever the case it definitely required vision and effort to establish. This highest climb in 'Queensland' is not for your average sport climber, and would best suit those with a sense of adventure and a taste for mountaineering.
Start: From the SE Ridge, 250m below the summit you'll find a nice bivey spot. From here find your way to the south of the base of the 'East Face'. You can get here via a 30m abseil or 10 minutes of bush bashing and rock scrambling. From here you head towards the large rock apron and follow that down, and then you'll come to a part which gets exposed. Here you climb straight up too a bushy ledge (tricky moves) and easily follow the rock along for 50m. Here you'll find the start of the climb. In places the way is marked with tape.
East Face Route
FA: J. Tillack, D. Groom & L. Wood; J Tillack, L Wood, D Groom; John Tillack, Les Wood, Donn Groom, 1966
|4||The Governor p1||19||25m|
|5||The Governor p2||20||25m|
|6||The Governor p3||20||20m|
|7||The Governor p4||16||25m|
|8||The Governor p5||18||15m|
|9||The Governor p6||21||20m|
|10||The Governor p7||21||20m|
|11||The Governor p8||18||20m|
|12||The Governor p9||14||25m|
|13||The Governor p10||17||15m|
|14||The Governor p11||21||20m|
|15||The Governor p12||20||20m|
|16||The Governor p13||22||20m|
|17||The Governor p14||22||20m|
|18||The Governor p15||14||30m|
Unknown and Trad
Leaning Peak North Face Route
FA: C. Meadows, M. Meadows & J. Shera
Leaning Peak Ridge
FA: S. Tanner & R. Allen
|4||The Barney Couloir||17||300m|
Trad and Unknown
Isolated Peak East Face Route
FA: R. Rankin & T. Low
Up the obvious rightward leaning gully.
Boulder and Unknown
|2||Short and Steep||V6|
|3||The kids climb||3||8m|
|7||First buttress Traverse||V2||15m|
|9||Bare foot bandit||V1||5m|
|10||One move up||V0-|