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Table of contents

1. Mt Barney 41 routes in Crag

Sport, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.675111, -28.276829

Description:© (gremlin)

The largest massif of rock in south east 'Queensland'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 East Face Chimney

Upward and onward. Enjoy the jungle gym on the ;ast two pitches.

2 * The Governor

The pitch lengths haven't been verified, so don't rely on there accuracy. Also some grades are also not accurate and need to be verified.

This climb is a mountaineering style adventure up through the highest and steepest part of Mt Barney's imposing 'East Face'. This is a very sustained route with very few easy pitches. The individual pitches themselves are also sustained. This route has mega exposure, good falls, and a lot of rotten rock that should make your belayer shake in their pants. At the end of the Governor it will leave you wondering why on earth someone would bolt this line, while you nurse your very sore body.

At points this climb lacks line, but what ever the case it definitely required vision and effort to establish. This highest climb in 'Queensland' is not for your average sport climber, and would best suit those with a sense of adventure and a taste for mountaineering.

Start: From the SE Ridge, 250m below the summit you'll find a nice bivey spot. From here find your way to the south of the base of the 'East Face'. You can get here via a 30m abseil or 10 minutes of bush bashing and rock scrambling. From here you head towards the large rock apron and follow that down, and then you'll come to a part which gets exposed. Here you climb straight up too a bushy ledge (tricky moves) and easily follow the rock along for 50m. Here you'll find the start of the climb. In places the way is marked with tape.

  1. 25m (19) Starts nice and hard straight of the deck. Follow bolts up over multiple cruxes to rings on a very small ledge.

  2. 25m (20) Head out right around bulge. Climb straight over it if you're feeling strong. Move up over slab and into rotten vertical climbing to rings on a small ledge.

  3. 20m (20) Follow bolts through two overhangs and slabs in the middle. The first overhang can be easily avoided by climbing right. Belay at small ledge.

  4. 25m (16) This pitch continues up the rock cone then breaks right towards the main face and up a chimney. Beware of loose blocks within the chimney that funnel down onto the two pitches below. Near the top the route breaks out right of the chimney to a ledge with precariously balanced tree.

  5. 15m (18) Traverse out and up to the right over delicate slabs. Just before the belay beware of the fridge size loose block. Try not to touch it as you climb under it. 'Small' stance at the belay. This pitch requires a confident seconder as the falls would be very exciting for them. Its best not to link the next pitch with this one.

  6. 20m (21) This pitch has good bolting, nice falls, and wicked exposure. Definitely a stand-out pitch. Climb up through some sustained and interesting vertical face climbing. As always on this route, beware of loose blocks throughout.

  7. 20m (21) Death blocks, overhangs, and scrubery. Climb up to the roof and clip bolt just over the lip. Don't touch the loose blocks under the overhang unless you want to kill your seconder and yourself. Tricky moves over the roof and continue for a couple of bolts. When it starts to get too vegetated, bust a move out left through the overhang, past your last bolt. From here you should see the belay rings. A few more powerful moves will get you to the semi-hanging belay.

  8. 20m (18) Hard moves straight of the deck, with ugly falls if you don't make it to the first bolt. Continue up through some interesting vertical climbing over broken rock. 'Surprise' surprise, beware of more loose rock.

  9. 25m (14) The first give-me pitch! Slight traverse out right through vegetation. Beware of ledge fall potential at a few points. The pitch ends at the top of the large centre overhangs a good sized vegetated ledge.

  10. 15m (17) Tricky climbing up to a good belay stance.

  11. 20m (21) More tricky climbing that traverses out slight right to a large corner. Some crazy moves will find you on the other side. Continue straight up (next bolt is hidden) to belay rings. As you climb this pitch the Popes Nose bivey ledge is off to the right.

  12. 20m (20) Climb up through the corner over a slight overhang. At some points you can climb out right to avoid the difficult parts. Continue to the top over lots of loose rock and vegetation. The next belay stance is a good size located underneath the summit overhangs.

  13. 20m (22) Climb up to the right through the rotten rock. Difficult moves through the overhang with good falls, but more terrible rock. Clip a few more bolts and then straight up over a tricky mantle. Here you get the full exposure of the 'East Face'. Continue up to the belay.

  14. 20m (22) Follow the ramp to the below the last overhang. This section has some run-outs and bad fall potential. Tricky moves up through the overhang. Belay at small stance above tree.

  15. 30m (14) Nice slab climbing to the belay rings. This pitch finishes 2-meters below the bushwalking track.

22 R Sport 320m 15

1.1. East Peak 19 routes in Area

Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** South-East Ridge 1 Alpine 1000m
2 East Face Route

FA: J. Tillack, D. Groom & L. Wood; J Tillack, L Wood, D Groom; John Tillack, Les Wood, Donn Groom, 26th May

17 Unknown 300m
3 The Governor 22 Sport 320m
4 The Governor p1 19 Sport 25m
5 The Governor p2 20 Sport 25m
6 The Governor p3 20 Sport 20m
7 The Governor p4 16 Sport 25m
8 ** The Governor p5 18 Sport 15m
9 * The Governor p6 21 Sport 20m
10 * The Governor p7 21 Sport 20m
11 The Governor p8 18 Sport 20m
12 The Governor p9 14 Sport 25m
13 The Governor p10 17 Sport 15m
14 * The Governor p11 21 Sport 20m
15 The Governor p12 20 Sport 20m
16 * The Governor p13 22 Sport 20m
17 The Governor p14 22 Sport 20m
18 The Governor p15 14 Sport 30m
19 ** Logan's Ridge 3 Alpine 1500m

1.2. Leaning Peak 4 routes in Area

All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Leaning Peak North Face Route

FA: C. Meadows, M. Meadows & J. Shera

13 Trad 300m
2 *** Leaning Peak Ridge

830m long

5 R Trad 830m
3 Plum Bob

FA: S. Tanner & R. Allen

13 Trad 310m
4 The Barney Couloir 17 Trad 300m

1.3. Isolated Peak 3 routes in Area

Trad and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Isolated Peak East Face Route

FA: R. Rankin & T. Low

13 Unknown 130m
2 Grotesque Gully

Up the obvious rightward leaning gully.

13 Trad
3 Unknown 18 Trad 210m

1.4. West Peak 0 routes in Area

1.5. North Peak 2 routes in Area

All Alpine
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 North Ridge 2 Alpine
2 Rocky Gully 2 Alpine

1.6. East Side Barney Lodge 10 routes in Area

Boulder and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Brian's climb 17 Unknown 45m
2 ** Short and Steep V6 Boulder
3 * The kids climb 3 Unknown 8m
4 *** Deception V3 Boulder 3m
5 Fern Gully 13 Unknown 25m
6 * Snake Mourn V3 Boulder 3m
7 ** First buttress Traverse V2 Boulder 15m
8 * Brad's Problem V2 Boulder 4m
9 * Bare foot bandit V1 Boulder 5m
10 One move up V0- Boulder

1.7. East Face 0 routes in Area

Description:© (gremlin)

The big obvious face below the east peak.

1.8. Lower Portals 1 route in Boulder

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 152.698809, -28.250255


Bouldering around the swimming hole. Mostly deep water


Like the rest of Mount Barney National Park - about 2hrs south of Brisbane. Look for signs for the Lower Portals. From the carpark its about an hour's walk.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Middle Aged Unicorn On Beach With Sunset

Looking up-stream there are two sandy beaches. This problem is on the upper edge of the upper beach. Start in near the waters edge, ascend to the left, then use the pocket holds to traverse and top out to the right. Extra points for a backflip finish into the water.

Set by Leon, 2014

FFA: Leon, 2014

FA: Leon, 2014

V0 Boulder 2m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
1 ** South-East Ridge Alpine 1000m 1.1. East Peak
2 North Ridge Alpine 1.5. North Peak
Rocky Gully Alpine 1.5. North Peak
3 ** Logan's Ridge Alpine 1500m 1.1. East Peak
* The kids climb Unknown 8m 1.6. East Side Barney Lodge
5 R *** Leaning Peak Ridge Trad 830m 1.2. Leaning Peak
13 Leaning Peak North Face Route Trad 300m 1.2. Leaning Peak
Plum Bob Trad 310m 1.2. Leaning Peak
Grotesque Gully Trad 1.3. Isolated Peak
Isolated Peak East Face Route Unknown 130m 1.3. Isolated Peak
Fern Gully Unknown 25m 1.6. East Side Barney Lodge
V0- One move up Boulder 1.6. East Side Barney Lodge
14 The Governor p15 Sport 30m 1.1. East Peak
The Governor p9 Sport 25m 1.1. East Peak
V0 Middle Aged Unicorn On Beach With Sunset Boulder 2m 1.8. Lower Portals
16 The Governor p4 Sport 25m 1.1. East Peak
17 East Face Route Unknown 300m 1.1. East Peak
The Governor p10 Sport 15m 1.1. East Peak
The Barney Couloir Trad 300m 1.2. Leaning Peak
** Brian's climb Unknown 45m 1.6. East Side Barney Lodge
18 ** The Governor p5 Sport 15m 1.1. East Peak
The Governor p8 Sport 20m 1.1. East Peak
Unknown Trad 210m 1.3. Isolated Peak
19 The Governor p1 Sport 25m 1.1. East Peak
V1 * Bare foot bandit Boulder 5m 1.6. East Side Barney Lodge
20 The Governor p12 Sport 20m 1.1. East Peak
The Governor p2 Sport 25m 1.1. East Peak
The Governor p3 Sport 20m 1.1. East Peak
V2 * Brad's Problem Boulder 4m 1.6. East Side Barney Lodge
** First buttress Traverse Boulder 15m 1.6. East Side Barney Lodge
21 * The Governor p11 Sport 20m 1.1. East Peak
* The Governor p6 Sport 20m 1.1. East Peak
* The Governor p7 Sport 20m 1.1. East Peak
22 The Governor Sport 320m 1.1. East Peak
* The Governor p13 Sport 20m 1.1. East Peak
The Governor p14 Sport 20m 1.1. East Peak
22 R * The Governor Sport 320m 15 1. Mt Barney
V3 *** Deception Boulder 3m 1.6. East Side Barney Lodge
* Snake Mourn Boulder 3m 1.6. East Side Barney Lodge
V6 ** Short and Steep Boulder 1.6. East Side Barney Lodge
? East Face Chimney Trad 1. Mt Barney