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APPROACH: from Lower Portals carpark follow the track to The Lower Portals (3.8Km) and once at the portals bypass them by taking the steep track on the right. Up to the ridge and back down to the creek. Rock hop upstream until you get to Barney waterfall (on your left). Scramble to the top of the waterfall on the left and walk across the waterfall, the route starts here just above water pools scooped in the slab.


  1. follow the bushy ridge until some open slabby sections are reached.

  2. Scramble up for about 100m or so finding LLR until a new bushy section is reached.

  3. From here either follow easy grade 4 rock leading right and up or jump left on a juggy wall (cleaner climbing but harder) to a ledgy area below an exposed blank wall.

  4. From here the route traverses left on a bushy ledge until you find a low angle easy juggy ramp leading up and right, or alternatively climb straight up on grade 10 rock but runout.

  5. Keep climbing up until a bushy gully on the left leads up to a bouldery move to exit on a shaded ledgy area

  6. Carefully scramble over blocks and thin exposed ridge for 50m until top of a notch. Downclimb into the saddle over a chockstone with big exposure either sides and back to the ridge.

  7. (crux) From a belay tree (optional), climb up trending left to a black boy and ledge on grade 4:

a) keep climbing up (grade 5/6) with a couple of trees as protection or solo until easy ground, or

b) traverse left, sling solid tree and climb up easy grade but exposed over big drop.

  1. Walk to the summit.

DESCENT: from Leaning Peak summit walk to the opposite side towards North Peak and scramble down until you find rapping chains. Rap for 25m to a saddle. From here walk towards North Peak until you descent via North Ridge faint track (few tricky steep sections to downclimb where the rope could help). Cross Rocky creek and join Logan's ridge track to Yellowpinch carpark (two cars at either ends saves you a long hike back to the car).

NOTE: this is just one descent option. Other options include returning back via Short Leaning Ridge or Eagles Ridge.

TIME: allow 10-11 hrs or more car to car and carry enough water (last water can be found at moonlight slabs above Barney waterfall).

Route History:

There is no known route history.


Located in Leaning Peak approx:
Lat/Long: -28.272646,152.692260

Route Grade Citations

5 R Community registered grade
5 private
5 Terry Svingen
5 R *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 86%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux hard super fun nice good great enjoyable classic awesome unprotected tricky steep easy traverse

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