Mt Coolum Mostly sport climbing100 routes in crag
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Kneebars and lots of core strength on steep territory
There's not many other crags in south east Queensland where you can climb in the shade in summer. Because of this, local climbers have been almost forced to climb here, regardless of ability. And given there's not any easy routes at the cliff, Mt Coolum is transforming the local climbing populace into steep-thugging, kneebar-wielding, sloper-crushing mutants! Projects of yesteryear are today's warm-up's and today's projects are, well, futuristic!
Unlike many other crags of this type, the local scene is friendly, welcoming and encouraging. Come and join us for a dangle!
Access to Mt Coolum is under strict community guidelines. If we obey the rules, then climbing here will continue.
The rules are:
- No new routes outside the cave (bolted or otherwise)
- No routes up though the area where the falcons are
- Minimize impact and presence (i.e. no loud noise!)
- Continue to clean up our mess and the mess of others
- Make an effort to clean chalk off holds
- Do not leave quickdraws on routes below the height of the tallest stick-clip. Leaving no draws is encouraged.
One and a half hours (130 km) north of Brisbane. Up the Bruce Highway. Exit L and under after the Ettamogah Pub onto the Sunshine Coast Motorway. Nearing Mooloolaba, take the Noosa exit (not Mooloolaba), pass over the Maroochy river (first sight of the mountain on the bridge). Take the airport exit and keep going straight toward the coast. After the IGA turn L on Quarry Rd, one street before Hyatt Coolum. Follow your nose and park in the main National Park car park.
There are two track options to get to the cliff. The best (which avoids an obvious looking 'climbers trail' appearing on the general tourist track) is the separate trail from the tourists (see red line in the overview topo below). Head to the southern end of carpark and follow the fire trail South. After about 200m a narrow track breaks off R, follow this up to an old road then veer left into the quarry. Keep going uphill, the tracks lead up to the huge cave on the South East side (quite well worn, 10 minutes tops).
Where to stay
Surfair Resort offer 2 bedroom unit. You can get the view of the cave while enjoying your coffee on the balcony. www.surfairmarcoola.com.au.
The cave has been largely developed in the last 10 years We value our relationship with the National Park and expect all users to respect this. It is essential not to disturb the wildlife and stay on the track to limit our impact.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Start at the 'Nick' graffiti. Four RBs then finish up BBaJ. One big boulder problem with every move a hardie. The slot in the roof can be damp after rain and is completely frictionless. Deserves much more attention!
FFA: Frey Yule, 2007
Up into the steep little cave, then across left to a hard move to gain the protruding jugs. Motor up the very overhanging arete on killer shark-fin jugs. Now rebolted with U-bolts.
Climb Hang Like a Fruitbat to anchor, but don't clip it. Instead head sharply left until you join into Beer Boob and finish. Have fun on the crazy upside down traverse.
FFA: Frey Yule
Climbs the smooth wall straight above Fruit Bat. Closed, stay off.
Set by Frey Yule, 2010 & Matt Schimke, 2011
Up the bulby horns out the roof to anchors. Feet more important than hands on this one. Ever so popular.
FFA: Simon Moses, 1998
A new extension to fruit bat. Blasts out the roof past the fruit bat anchor for an extra 2 bolts before meeting scrambled eggs and honey on the other side. Probably the steepest route at coolum at 120 degrees. Will be an epic mental and physical battle.
Starts a few metres right of Hung Like a Fruit Bat. Stick clip. Jump start, up, then across the roof and finish at HLAFB chains. Similar style to Fruit Bat, at a harder grade.
FA: Matt Eaton, 2007
Ringbolts starting just R of TMAAL. A weird looking line which climbs really well. Make sure you bring your kneepads for this one. Popular.
FFA: Matt Eaton, 2007
Batman start to the anchors of Sideways Rain the head left clipping the last two bolts of Bring Back the kneebar before continuing straight-up for another 5 bolts to the anchor.
FFA: Johnny Schwartz, 2014
Batman start at the anchors over the lip above kneebar too far. Reach up and grab those starting slopers out left and start from there. Heads straight-up and finishes standing on huge ledge.
FA: Daniel Friedman, 2013
Even better than the original line!! The direct start of Kneebar. Extremely bouldery and powerful compression climbing which will make you beg for mercy!
Set by Sam Bowman, Daniel Gordon & antoine moussette, 2013
FA: Sam Bowman, 2013
Go from UFO all the way through to bring back the kneebar. Gonna be hard and funky.
Set by Dan g & Matt Eaton
Mat Eaton's futuristic projects. One of the last remaining king lines of Coolum; it follows the line of ring bolts to a double bolt anchor. This project remains closed and should be respected unless permission is sought directly from Mat. Sebastian Loewensteijn takes responsibility for newly added bolts and repairing several of the holds on the route after pulling them off. Kind regards, Sebastian.
Set by Matt Eaton, 2007
The name say it all. Bring 4 ropes and 37 Quickdraws.
Set by Adam James Palmer, 2014
Start up Evil for 2 bolts before heading left.
Bolting not finished.
Start up the first 3 bolts of Evil, then veer up and left for another 3 bolts before getting a weird ledge rest. A few more moves and you're done.
FFA: Matt Schimke, 2010
Climb Evil, but veer left before cave and up the face above encountering some bouldery moves.
FA: Frey Yule, 2012
The 70 degree overhung madness that rears above the walking track. One of the best steep routes in Australia.
Amazingly this was the first route to be equipped at Coolum (2 bolts); it was then extended another 2 bolts and attempted by various suitors over the next 15 years. In early 2008, Adam Donaghue refreshed the hardware & added two extensions, beginning both from a batman start on the U-bolt (Ground Control 28 going L and Major Tom 30 going straight up). Lee linked up the boulder problem start with Major Tom and Evil Wears No Pants was reborn as one of Queensland's 'King Lines'!
FA: Adam Donoghue, 2008
FFA: Lee Cujes, 2008
What a thrilling route! Start as for EWNP, traverse slightly right at the second bolt, then ascend past 3 new bolts before re-joining EWNP. This avoids the no hands rest on EWNP, resulting in a more sustained route of continuous climbing.
Set by Paul Cresswell, David Biggs & Sebastian Loewensteijn, 2013
FFA: Sebastian Loewensteijn, 2013
Up Thriller till the second last bolt and then step right into friction addictions hard ending. Super pumpy classic.
FA: Sam Bowman, 2014
Was previously known as 'the motor finance wizard project' Start up the first two bolts of Evil before heading right and up the blankish face. Huge throws on slopey holds guard the crux. The top is exciting and ever so pumpy.
FA: Matt Schimke, 2011
FFA: Sam Bowman, 2014
Two FHs placed in impossible-looking territory. Could link into Thriller or friction
Set by Paul Creswell, 2011