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Table of contents

1. Mt Coolum 92 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 153.086891, -26.563009

Unique Features And Strengths:

Kneebars and lots of core strength on steep territory

Description:

There's not many other crags in south east Queensland where you can climb in the shade in summer. Because of this, local climbers have been almost forced to climb here, regardless of ability. And given there's not any easy routes at the cliff, Mt Coolum is transforming the local climbing populace into steep-thugging, kneebar-wielding, sloper-crushing mutants! Projects of yesteryear are today's warm-up's and today's projects are, well, futuristic!

Unlike many other crags of this type, the local scene is friendly, welcoming and encouraging. Come and join us for a dangle!

Access Issues:

Access to Mt Coolum is under strict community guidelines. If we obey the rules, then climbing here will continue.

The rules are:

  • No new routes outside the cave (bolted or otherwise)
  • No routes up though the area where the falcons are
  • Minimize impact and presence (i.e. no loud noise!)
  • Continue to clean up our mess and the mess of others
  • Make an effort to clean chalk off holds
  • Do not leave quickdraws on routes below the height of the tallest stick-clip. Leaving no draws is encouraged.
Approach:

One and a half hours (130 km) north of Brisbane. Up the Bruce Highway. Exit L and under after the Ettamogah Pub onto the Sunshine Coast Motorway. Nearing Mooloolaba, take the Noosa exit (not Mooloolaba), pass over the Maroochy river (first sight of the mountain on the bridge). Take the airport exit and keep going straight toward the coast. After the IGA turn L on Quarry Rd, one street before Hyatt Coolum. Follow your nose and park in the main National Park car park.

There are two track options to get to the cliff. The best (which avoids an obvious looking 'climbers trail' appearing on the general tourist track) is the separate trail from the tourists (see red line in the overview topo below). Head to the southern end of carpark and follow the fire trail South. After about 200m a narrow track breaks off R, follow this up to an old road then veer left into the quarry. Keep going uphill, the tracks lead up to the huge cave on the South East side (quite well worn, 10 minutes tops).

Where To Stay:

Surfair Resort offer 2 bedroom unit. You can get the view of the cave while enjoying your coffee on the balcony. www.surfairmarcoola.com.au.

Ethic:

The cave has been largely developed in the last 10 years We value our relationship with the National Park and expect all users to respect this. It is essential not to disturb the wildlife and stay on the track to limit our impact.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Ultraviolet

Far left upper route. 7-8 FHs to DUBB. Access via Friends in High Places, then traverse L to DFHB on ledge.

FFA: J.J. O'Brien, 2008

25Sport 15m, 7 Gareth Llewellin 1 years ago

Nice and steep. This is a crazy crag

jjobrien 1 years ago

I had to find a bit of recovery before the crux. w/Lee

2 ** Drums Not Guns

Big holds to a rare crimp crux, then super horns into the sky. Joins BLD at its final bolt.

FFA: Frey Yule, 2009

27Sport 20m, 11 jjobrien 1 years ago

Been on it once before w/Frey. Couldn't quite get that crux move. w/Lee

Lee Cujes 1 years ago

Probably Frey's best route at Coolum. Second ascent. [2]

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Relative Affection

Crazy slippery rock. Challenge your friction technique.

FFA: J.J. O'Brien, Ambor Collins, 2006

23Sport 18m, 7 Matt Schimke 4 years ago

First 23 onsight, slippery slopers

Rich Binstead 6 years ago

Surprised myself with this one. 3 goes. Interesting style!

4 Slap that Belly

Start under the overhanging arete left of Friends in high places. The obvious series of slopers lead to a tricky exit. Best to top rope from 'Friends in High Places' anchor, but beware rope cutting edges.

FA: Etienne Laliberte, 2009

V5Boulder
5 *** Black Leather Dungarees

Start at RA's anchor. Steep stuff straight above the belay. Traverse L under roof to wacky slab and a rest above. Huge jugs and horns comprise the final third. 11 U-bolts to DUBB. Second to clean. Rope length warning: It is more than 30m from anchor to ground. Suggestion: leader lowers, rope toss to pull back to belay, second to clean, lower second to ground, pull rope to start belay, rap off.

FFA: Lee Cujes, JJ O'Brien, 2007

26Sport 20m, 11 Gareth Llewellin 1 years ago

Got it with one very silly fall on my second go at the end of the day. Remember to bring knee pad...

Tom Semple 1 years ago

Couldn't figure out the crux move.

6 *** Gasoline Rainbow

Amazing climbing which is never too hard, but quite continuous! Start at the top anchor of FIHP. Step L, then three RBs to unique cave move. Thug R to jutting horn. Breach "slab" above moving L to find some harder moves. A traverse L, then finish on jugs. DUBB. Nine RBs. Lower-off into the ocean. Use 60m rope.

FFA: Lee Cujes, JJ O'Brien, 2007

28Sport 15m, 9 Damien Ayers 9 months ago

Working, working. Can do everything, might need some refinement for the top. Felt very spoodgy. [5]

Damien Ayers 9 months ago

Working working, forgotten almost everything. [4]

7 Thunderbirds

A link up. Start as for Tropic Thunder clipping its last bolt then staying low traverse in and finish up Gasoline Rainbow.

FFA: Sebastiaan Loewensteijn, 2012

28Sport 20m, 10
8 *** Tropical Thunderbirds

A link up for some sustained climbing if you're tired of knee baring your way up things... though they will still help. Climb Tropic Thunder and above the last bolt, don't go right to clip the anchors, head left and finish up Gasoline Rainbow.

FFA: Sebastiaan Loewensteijn, 2012

29Sport 20m, 10 David Biggs 2 years ago

Combines the best of two lines.

9 ** Tropic Thunder

Climb FIHP to anchor, and then take a step right and climb straight up the overhung stemming groove to rooflet. Above this, bouldery, spacey moves await. Anchor on right.

FFA: Matt Schimke, 2011

27Sport 22m, 5 Lee Cujes 2 years ago

Second ascent, thanks SMatt. Bouldery top section. Felt hard for me today, although I could be je...

Lee Cujes 2 years ago

Fell off the anchor clipping hold. Argh!

10 Friends in High Places

The only non-steep warmup here. Okay climbing on slippery rock. Stickclip. Start R of the bolt and go diagonally up left to it. Traversing L while still under the 1st bolt adds a grade. Baffling moves up past 3-4 bolts until it slabs out, then head well left to double rings.

FFA: Liam O'Dea, 1997

20Sport 12m, 6 Matt Schimke 9 months ago

Done twice.

Damien Ayers 9 months ago

To get to Gasoline Rainbow

11 * Nuts In High Places

Climb this as one pitch from the ground. Climb FIHP, extending the last clip, and climb directly up the wall above past 5 RBs to wild conclusion which resembles mantling the end of a diving board.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2011

26Sport 22m, 10 Damien Ayers 2 years ago

Downclimb/backjump to clean since the top was wet and Tom didn't want to do the slippery start.

Damien Ayers 2 years ago

Damn rain. Super slick getting up FIHP, then the top jugs and mantle were soaked and unclimbable....

12 * Cleared For Takeoff

Start up TDLW for three UB's, then trend slightly L past FH's up the ever steepening wall past some crazy looking horns and the odd dodgy aid bolt. The top horn (the biggest at Coolum) rings when you tap it! Ride 'em cowboy!

FA: Aaron Jones, 1998

FFA: Simon Moses, 2000

26Sport 20m, 11 jjobrien 9 months ago

To the anchor and back down under the overhang w/Antoine

jjobrien 9 months ago

w/Antoine

13 ** CLOSED - Powderkeg

(There is an issue with the batch of steel used in the manufacturing of several of the fixed hangers on this route. Please stay off until this can be fixed.) Coolum's highest route. Climb CFT and top out on the ledge. You might like to pull and re-drop your rope to lessen drag. Step right, and blast through steep but juggy terrain into the stratosphere. Some longer draws at certain spots will ease your pain. The final bolt (anchor) is just below the top of the cave and currently sports a leaver biner. You can just get down on a 60m from here, but back-jump to clean.

FA: Lee Cujes, John J O'Brien, 2013

26Sport 30m, 20 Lee Cujes 1 years ago

Fell a couple of bolts shy of the top. Low energy day.

Lee Cujes 1 years ago

Gear on lap.

14 Dave

A new warm-up option. Up TDLW for four UBs. Instead of traversing right as for TDLW, go straight up past another three UBs into the cave. Finish atop the diving board (double U-bolts). Lower-off.

FFA: Lee Cujes, JJ O'Brien, 2011

20Sport 12m, 9 Dave Kenny 9 months ago

Yay, got to the top but was poor form. Have to do it proper next time.

michael obrien 9 months ago

meh... worn out from my fruitbat attempts.

15 *** The David Lee Roth

Climb Dave until you're at the double UB's above the diving board. Continue directly out the roof for some of the steepest climbing and THE biggest, craziest holds at Coolum. Finish at C4T's anchor.

FFA: Lee Cujes, JJ O'Brien, 2011

25Sport 20m, 12 Tom Kjaer-Olsen 2 years ago

Couldn't work out the moves, just working it destroyed me. Will try it again later when I'm stron...

Damien Ayers 2 years ago

Second go today, still couldn't work out the crux, but a lot less intimidated.

16 The David Low Way

Like Woodridge, had a name change and a rebolt to hopefully generate more interest. Follow four U-bolts up deceiving slab before traversing/walking directly right past two FH's and mantling up into the cave. You'll need a seconder to clean this route.

18Sport 12m, 6 Anas Mansour 10 months ago

Perfect place to go on a rainy day :)

Matt Earsman 10 months ago

More weirdness.... poor guys before us lowered off gibbering leaving a shiny new screwgate..... w...

17 ** La Cucaracha Airhorns

Get safe at TDLW anchor and pull and re-drop your rope for a ground belay. From this point, climb up and out left on FHs and biiig holds to a confounding and onsight-ruining finale.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

25Sport 12m Lee Cujes 2 years ago

That finale is tough. 26 maybe.

Lee Cujes 2 years ago

Went up this again for the send, only to find the smooth rock was coated in water at the top. Com...

18 ** Eraserhead

Starts just to the right of LCA. Climbs the exposed arete before heading straight up into the thin corner, finishing with a wild move to breach the shelf at the top. Belay from ground as for LCA.

FFA: Matt Schimke, 2010

26Sport 12m, 5 Matt Schimke 2 years ago

To get photos with Phil. Awesome climb.

jjobrien 3 years ago

Excellent climbing, good exposure, hero finish. Rainy and blowy but still great.

19 Scoopydoo

Follow the jagged lip feature going across right. Finish as BBJ.

Set by Antoine Moussette., 2013

Sport Project 16m, 7
20 La Scoop Volante

In the middle of the giant scoop make your way on some funky blob aiming for a horn at the lip. Follow the feature and finish BBJ anchor.

Set by Antoine Moussette, 2013

Sport Project 14m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
21 ** The Antipump

Start at the 'Nick' graffiti. Four RBs then finish up BBaJ. One big boulder problem with every move a hardie. The slot in the roof can be damp after rain and is completely frictionless. Deserves much more attention!

FFA: Frey Yule, 2007

27Sport 10m Alexander Turnbull 9 months ago

funky moves. very fun!

Matt Schimke 4 years ago

almost, last move

22 * Beer, Boobs and Jerky

Up into the steep little cave, then across left to a hard move to gain the protruding jugs. Motor up the very overhanging arete on killer shark-fin jugs. Now rebolted with U-bolts.

FFA: 1998

24Sport 10m Igor Khudoshin 10 months ago

Barely held together the dyno, but finished comfortably

Igor Khudoshin 10 months ago

Trying out top sequence

23 ** Sister Two Strokes (linkup)

Climb Hang Like a Fruitbat to anchor, but don't clip it. Instead head sharply left until you join into Beer Boob and finish. Have fun on the crazy upside down traverse.

FFA: Frey Yule

26Sport 20m, 10 Matt Schimke 3 years ago

Good extention to fruitbat. Keeps you going, crimpy traverse. (2)

24 Hang High (closed project)

Climbs the smooth wall straight above Fruit Bat. Closed, stay off.

Set by Frey Yule, 2010 & Matt Schimke, 2011

29 to 31Sport Project 30m, 12 Lee Cujes 1 years ago

Matt okay'd having a burn. Super difficult transition from roof to wall. Too much for me.

Matt Schimke 3 years ago

Photo lap. JJ took some pictures.

25 ** Hung Like A Fruit Bat

Up the bulby horns out the roof to anchors. Feet more important than hands on this one. Ever so popular.

FFA: Simon Moses, 1998

25Sport 8m, 5 Lachlan Pearson 9 months ago

Should of been a tick but a slight slip of the right hand while clipping the anchor lead to a gro...

michael obrien 9 months ago

loving this route more and more every attempt! got to last bolt feeling pretty solid and not cra...

26 ** Three Men and A Ladder

Starts a few metres right of Hung Like a Fruit Bat. Stick clip. Jump start, up, then across the roof and finish at HLAFB chains. Similar style to Fruit Bat, at a harder grade.

FA: Matt Eaton, 2007

26Sport 10m, 5 Tom Reid 10 months ago

2nd go, did a bit better with some help from Tracey. no pads with me today, so a combo of them, s...

Tom Reid 10 months ago

draws up, and working. last minute trip to the cave as the rain came in on the way to tibro. very...

27 *** A Kneebar Too Far

Ringbolts starting just R of TMAAL. A weird looking line which climbs really well. Make sure you bring your kneepads for this one. Popular.

FFA: Matt Eaton, 2007

29Sport 12m, 6 Andrew Lightfoot 1 years ago

Working burn on the lower part of the crux. Finally figured out some of the intricacies of the cl...

Andrew Lightfoot 1 years ago

First real attempt at the climb. Had basically no clue what I was doing until j.j. Threw some poi...

28 *** Bring Back The Kneebar

Unrepeated weirdness! Climb AKTF then keep going for another 3 bolts. Make sure you use long draws on AKTF otherwise the rope drag is just enough to make the end move easy.

FFA: Matt Eaton, 2009

29Sport 16m, 8 Lee Cujes 4 years ago

fell all over it, super tired. Extension, did somehow control a double kneebar version once only....

Lee Cujes 4 years ago

Still failed to solve extension. Frustrating.

29 ** UFO / Unidentified Frictionless Object

The direct start of Kneebar. Extremely bouldery and powerful compression climbing which will make you beg for mercy! The crux might be the hardest move at the crag?

Set by Sam Bowman & Daniel Gordon, 2013

FA: Sam Bowman, 2013

30Sport 14m, 7
30 * Flying saucer (project open)

Go from UFO all the way through to bring back the kneebar. Gonna be hard and funky.

Set by Dan g and Matt Eaton

31Sport Project 15m, 9
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
31 ** Esoteric Agenda (closed project)

Mat Eaton's futuristic projects. One of the last remaining king lines of Coolum; it follows the line of ring bolts to a double bolt anchor. This project remains closed and should be respected unless permission is sought directly from Mat. Sebastian Loewensteijn takes responsibility for newly added bolts and repairing several of the holds on the route after pulling them off. Kind regards, Sebastian.

Set by Matt Eaton, 2007

32 to 33Sport Project 15m, 9 Matt Schimke 4 years ago

Went about half way up, VERY powerful. But definately doable. This is not open though, stay off u...

32 Evil Wear no Rainbow Spoonman Pant's in his Chevy Motor

The name say it all. Bring 4 ropes and 37 Quickdraws.

Set by Adam James Palmer, 15th Jan

37Sport Project 180m, 37
33 ** Evel Knievel

Climb Evil for three bolts before trending sharply left for a burly traverse below SO (past the weird double bolts). Joins SO for its top two bolts.

FFA: Frey Yule, 2011

29Sport 15m Lee Cujes 2 years ago

Strange route which feels easy bolt to bolt, but becomes a beast to link. Last climb before Kaly ...

Lee Cujes 2 years ago

All through Evil, through the traverse and the tank went from full to empty in like 2 moves.

34 ** Space Oddity

Start up the first 3 bolts of Evil, then veer up and left for another 3 bolts before getting a weird ledge rest. A few more moves and you're done.

FFA: Matt Schimke, 2010

29Sport 15m, 9 Lee Cujes 4 years ago

Battled it out, but ticked. Kneebars galore. [3]

Lee Cujes 4 years ago

Fell on Evil section, silly bugger.

35 ** Ground Control

Defunct (was the batman start to SO).

FA: Adam Donoghue, 2008

27Sport 12m Matt Schimke 4 years ago

Awesome, realy happy. Not very good conditions

36 * Prime Evil

Climb Evil, but veer left before cave and up the face above encountering some bouldery moves.

FA: Frey Yule, 2012

29Sport 25m Lee Cujes 1 years ago

Another route trying to muscle in on Evil's popularity. Interesting, but not sustained. [4]

Lee Cujes 1 years ago

WD-40 lap, fixing the seized biners. Might make it a grade easier ;)

37 *** Evil Wears No Pants

The 70 degree overhung madness that rears above the walking track. One of the best steep routes in Australia.

Amazingly this was the first route to be equipped at Coolum (2 bolts); it was then extended another 2 bolts and attempted by various suitors over the next 15 years. In early 2008, Adam Donaghue refreshed the hardware & added two extensions, beginning both from a batman start on the U-bolt (Ground Control 28 going L and Major Tom 30 going straight up). Lee linked up the boulder problem start with Major Tom and Evil Wears No Pants was reborn as one of Queensland's 'King Lines'!

FA: Adam Donoghue, 2008

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2008

30Sport 20m, 11 jjobrien 9 months ago

Felling pretty strong w/Danny

jjobrien 9 months ago

w/Danny

38 *** Thriller

What a thrilling route! Start as for EWNP, traverse slightly right at the second bolt, then ascend past 3 new bolts before re-joining EWNP. This avoids the no hands rest on EWNP, resulting in a more sustained route of continuous climbing.

Set by Paul Cresswell, David Biggs and Sebastian Loewensteijn, 2013

FFA: Sebastian Loewensteijn, 2013

31Sport 18m, 10
39 *** Friction addiction

Was previously known as 'the motor finance wizard project' Start up the first two bolts of Evil before heading right and up the blankish face. Huge throws on slopey holds guard the crux. The top is exciting and ever so pumpy.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2011

FFA: Sam Bowman, 9th Mar

32Sport 23m, 11 Matt Schimke 3 years ago

Almost worked out crux throw to crimp. Beta, drop right knee.

Matt Schimke 4 years ago

Working out bolt position and cleaning holds

40 Paul's Project

Two FHs placed in impossible-looking territory. Could link into Thriller or Motor Finance

Set by Paul Creswell, 2011

?Sport Project 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
41 ** Bite The Hand That Feeds

4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Futuristic. Two hard boulder problems to classic upper wall. Unrepeated.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2010

31Sport 23m, 10 Matt Schimke 3 years ago

Went for a lap, fell stabbing for toe hook at the top

Matt Schimke 3 years ago

Tried start a few times, but finger slipped out of slot each time. It was a big spoogy. Then did ...

42 ** Twister

Start matched on the red heart hold on the left of the small cave, traverse left around the bend then finish by matching on the jug that Kapow starts on.

FFA: Clint Westbrook, 2008

V3Boulder Matt Schimke 4 years ago

2nd shot, tape legs up

43 * Kapow

Start at the right of small cave, On big jug. Work your way left until it is obvious to move into the cave. Finish on the red paint hold ( match for 2 seconds ).

FA: 2008

V5Boulder Matt Schimke 5 years ago

Fuck

Matt Schimke 5 years ago

V6 hard

44 * Squatting Frenchman

Start in the roof under 'Kapow'. Grab the lip and squat over to finish at hueco.

FA: Antoine M. & Frey Yule, 2009

V4Boulder
45 Taking Care Of Business (open project)

All the move as been done but no one was able to take care of this one. Tom OH and Oliver M got busy on it but are now living overstate. Bouldery start, eventually get on Bite the Hand headwall. Finish straight up on his own anchor.

FA: Antoine Mousette, 2010

31 to 32Sport Project 24m, 10
46 Pauls Wedding Present

Starting on the slopey madness, just to the right of small cave. Climbs straight up onto "slab" and steep overhang above, to finish at the BTHTF anchor.

Set by Frey Yule, 2002

30 to 32Sport Project 21m, 10
47 ** The Seam Project

The fainted crack feature that lead directly to the upper part of Spoonman. Start as Knifey Spooney.

Set by Frey Yule, 2010 & Antoine Moussette, 2013

31 to 33Sport Project 20m, 10
48 ** Knifey Spooney

Bouldery start left of Screaming. Control the move to the knife hold and link into Spoonman.

Set by Gareth Llewellin, 2008. Antoine M., 2012

FFA: James Campbell, 2012

29Sport 22m, 10 radest 12 months ago

Sweet

Lee Cujes 12 months ago

Worked out my own thing and climbed the start, worked the link section into Spoonman. Then Antoin...

49 *** Spoonman

Bust out L from SI at 5th bolt. Great rock and good sequences have quickly made this a popular tick at the grade.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

28Sport 20m, 11 Oliver Kloiber-Deane 10 months ago

Been falling off last move to anchor jug for 5 weeks. Lost count of the number of shots, but now ...

Scott Hailstone 12 months ago

2 runs, trying to recall a few moves, different potential crux sequence maybe?

50 *** Screaming Insanity

The must-do crag classic, featuring the biggest and most aesthetic horns and jugs on the wall. When this was first bolted, there was nobody strong enough to climb it. Oh how things change!

FA: Chris Coghill, 1997

FFA: Simon Moses, 1998

26Sport 15m, 9 Tom Kjaer-Olsen 9 months ago

4th climb of the day, pretty shattered. Re-worked out how to do the crux, did the start without t...

Rob Medlicott 10 months ago

Can do all the moves apart from the very first right foot still. Gonna be a nice project for me.

51 ** Screaming Spoonman (linkup)

Up to anchor of SI (600mm sling), then head left on tricky slopers before joining into the last part of Spoonman.

FFA: Frey Yule, 2009

26Sport 19m, 12 Matt Schimke 3 years ago

another three shots. This thing really is quite difficult.

Matt Schimke

Fricken hard. I am working this ground up, everytime i fall i come down and start again. NO WORKI...

52 *** Wholly Calamity

This is the extension to Screaming Insanity. No harder, just pumpier! Three more bolts keep the lactic levels up.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

26Sport 20m, 12 jjobrien 9 months ago

150! Up to the top and down to screaming. w/Will Chan

jjobrien 11 months ago

w/Cameron Fairbairn

53 ** Crouching Tiger, Hidden Climber

Starting as for SI, step R on ramp and then blast the line above. Wear a shirt. You'll see.

FFA: Frey Yule, 2007

26Sport 15m, 12 Lee Cujes 4 years ago

Work out moves. I blast up with my right - weird.

Lee Cujes 4 years ago

2nd shot today [5]

54 ** Gonna Fly Now

Climbs Crouching Tiger until you notice a series of horns on your right. Traverse diagonally up to reach the crux of Kept Man. Up and PAST the chains of Kept Man/COD for another 3 bolts to the double rings right under the roof (Camp II/ Gothic Architect ).

FFA: Antoine Moussete, 2009

27Sport 30m, 16 Lee Cujes 2 years ago

Felt really good. Avoided the sit-down rest. There are some very sharp kneebars to be had, wear y...

Lee Cujes 2 years ago

Getting gear on, scraping my back.

55 Demolition Man

Start with the boulder problem SI, and then ramble easily up R to belay on a cool ledge in a really good position.

FA: 2002

24Sport 15m, 9 Matt Earsman 9 months ago

Typical Coolum slab above the crux, insecure and balancy, but pretty safe I would say. So happy t...

Justin Case 10 months ago

"First shot send", although I have done the crux of this climb plenty of times, which is the bott...

56 Demolition Boy

DM with a batman start to the third bolt.

FA: 2002

19Sport 12m, 7 Matt Earsman 9 months ago

Another wierd Coolum slab, largely frictionless with holds pointed mostly the wrong way. Nice and...

Bernie Walsh 4 years ago

even more scary on 2nd!

57 * Kept Man

Climb DM to access. Belayer can either belay from there, or the ground. Climb starts steeply directly above. A few bolts trending up and left to chains.

FFA: Brendan Leader, 2008

23Sport 10m Matt Schimke 4 years ago

crazy silly route, that is hard. 5th shot

Matt Schimke 4 years ago

Last move, this thing is nailing me

58 ** Purple Haze / Smooth Criminals

Traverse right onto exposed arete from the anchor of DM. A couple of funky throws and you're ready to clip the chain. Best to belay from the ground.

Set by Antoine Moussette & Matt Schimke, 2009

FFA: Matt Schimke, 2009

23Sport 7m, 5 Bernie Walsh 4 years ago

some good moves, I'd like to work on this some more...

Susy G 4 years ago

With Glenn. Some cool holds.

59 * Gothic Architect

From Kept Man Belay station. Keep going and traverse into the massive roof. Finish at a picnic table ledge (aka camp III) over the lip.

FA: Phil Box, 2009

M1Aid 7m Lee Cujes 2 years ago

This will eventually be freed by someone, but it won't be me. You'll need to enjoy pulling and ca...

60 Sneaky Roofy

Start right of Sceaming for some Mad roof climbing.

Set by Frey Yule, 2011

MadSport Project 6
61 ** Four Metres of Madness

Steepest route in Coolum. Start in back of cave R of SI. Stick clip first 2 bolts. Finish L of final bolt over the mantle.

FFA: Matt Eaton, 2008

29Sport 4m, 5 Tom Kjaer-Olsen 1 years ago

Progress, worked out a sequence from the second to third bolt. Needs lotsa work.

Tom Kjaer-Olsen 1 years ago

First ever shot. Could hold on the climb at various points...

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
62 ** Separation Anxiety

A short bouldery route traversing the lip of the cave from right to left. This route consumed Ross' life for a time.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2008

27Sport 8m, 5 Andrew Lightfoot 1 years ago

Yes! Everything worked and it felt almost easy.first tick of the year!

Andrew Lightfoot 1 years ago

Clean to the forth again :( spent the next half an hour dialing in the top sequence.

63 Five Minute Abs

Eight Minute Abs from the batman start. Mostly jugs with a bit of spice at the end.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2010

25Sport 12m, 4 Tom Kjaer-Olsen 2 years ago

Some slightly crumbly rock on it still, nice fun punchy moves though

Damien Ayers 2 years ago

Sharp crumbly rock, but otherwise fun.

64 ** Eight Minute Abs

The left trending line that starts left of WOC. The first half dozen moves make up the crux and are extremely bouldery requiring some strong core work to a huge bucket. From there it's a 45 degree wall with mostly big moves to big holds and a tricky finish to finish near the top of Demolition Man.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2011

28Sport 12m, 7 Andrew Lightfoot 1 years ago

And it's done! :) everything felt perfect. Didn't cut loose at the start and my hands finally stu...

Andrew Lightfoot 1 years ago

Fell just short of the anchors again.

65 In Memoriam

Linkup - Climbs Eight Minute Abs past the anchor into Call of Duty, via a 60cm sling on the first COD bolt

FFA: Daniel Friedman, 2012

28Sport 25m, 12
66 The Spartan Abs Workout (open project)

FA: 2012

Sport Project 32m, 17
67 ** Bloody Weapon

Start as Eight Minutes Abs. Join into Weapon of Choice and finish it.

FFA: Saša Juvan

28Sport 15m
68 ** Fire the Panzerschrek

Climb Bloody Weapon until anchor, then veer left and finish up COD.

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 2010

29Sport 28m, 17
69 *** Weapon of Choice

The line starting at ground level, 10m L of the R end of cave. Stick-clip the very high first ringbolt. Probably the most beta intensive route here. At least seven kneebars.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

27Sport 15m, 9 Matt Schimke 9 months ago

Fought and fought but didnt have the energy. First climb here in a LONG time. It really zapped me!

Damien Ayers 9 months ago

Tried some different beta, which was awkward and strange, totally spanked from previous shot. Got...

70 *** Call of Duty

Logical finish for WC. Cruxy finish on the upper arête . 14m overhung. A right variant finish is possible at the base of the arête.

Set by Antoine Moussette, 2009

FFA: J.J. O'Brien, 2009

28Sport 25m, 16 jjobrien 10 months ago

w/Antoine Testing his new 5.10 kneepads, and placing a few draws along the way

jjobrien 10 months ago

w/Tom

71 * Armed to the Teeth (open project)

Climb Weapon of Choice and make your way to Kissing the Lip.

Set by Graham Page & Antoine M., 2012

Sport Project 33m, 16 jjobrien 9 months ago

3rd shot

72 ** Big Boy, Big Problems (linkup)

Climb CWAHW but keep on moving left onto COD. Finish up this. The longest route at Coolum.

FFA: Matt Schimke, 2009

27Sport 30m jjobrien 10 months ago

I thought I was the first. Turns out Schimke beat me to it. By 4 years!!! Onya Matt. A perfectly ...

Matt Schimke 4 years ago

AWESOME FUN! MEGA LINK. (2)

73 Caught By The Fuzz

Starts 3m left of CH. Small roof leads to easy top.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

25Sport 10m, 3 Rob Medlicott 12 months ago

Just working the start was tricky for me but i made some good progress on my third go. Lotsa fun,...

Susy G 12 months ago

With Rob-doggie and Rob M. One more burn and cleaning drawers. Smashed.

74 Still on a Buzz (open project)

Do Caught by the Fuzz and keep going over the roof above the anchor. Finish at the niche just under Kissing the Lip.

FA: Antoine Moussette, 2012

25Sport Project 15m, 7
75 Caught by the Ranger (open project)

Start on Caught by the Fuzz. Keep going all the way throught Kissing the Lip.

FA: 2012

Sport Project 29m, 16
76 ** Kissing the Lip (open project)

Start at the CF extention anchor. straight up following the right hand seam. Finish on the perch above the lip of the cave.

Set by Graham Page & Antoine M., 2012

Sport Project 14m, 7
77 ** Caught With a Horny Weapon (linkup)

Climb HF but continue left into WOC and finish at anchor.

FFA: Matt Schimke, 2010

26Sport 15m Matt Schimke 4 years ago

Quite easily this time. No pump

Matt Schimke 4 years ago

easily this time. I realy enjoy doing this

78 Horny Fuzz (linkup)

Start as per Crazy Horny till fourth bolt (long sling), then move sharply left to the second bolt of CBTF, finish up this.

FFA: Matt Schimke, 2009

24Sport 11m Matt Schimke 4 years ago

Warm up, realy fun

Matt Schimke 4 years ago

backjumping freys link, decided to have a quick lap

79 ** Crazy Horny

Popular. Bouldery start then steep thuggery. The horn sadly broke changing the sequence. Many people's first 25.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2000

25Sport 10m, 4 Matt Schimke 9 months ago

Straight up without kneebars, not bad!

Tom Kjaer-Olsen 9 months ago

Warm up. Not good, nearly came off the start, nearly pumped out the top. Must be feeling the day ...

80 ** Frey's Link

Climb Crazy Horny skipping the 4th bolt, to anchor on Full Metal Traverse via a two bolt link-up. A bouldery finale actually involves downclimbing. A better finish.

FFA: Frey Yule, 2006

25Sport 10m, 5 Tom Kjaer-Olsen 1 years ago

Cleaning the draws off at the end of the day. Did the Crazy Horny part of the climb clean, couldn...

jjobrien 1 years ago

w/Damien Ayers

81 * Horny Anatomy (linkup)

Climb Crazy Horny into Frey's Link (to the anchors of FMT - 600mm sling), but keep going over the block and finish up Grazed Anatomy.

FFA: Frey Yule, 2008

26Sport 17m, 12
82 Pins and Needles

A 5m traverse.

FFA: Matt Schimke, 2008

V0Boulder Chester Ryan 6 years ago

spiky crimper. with sis matt.

Matt Schimke 6 years ago

A boulder prob!

With Chestnut

83 Shit On U Project (closed)

The line left of TN on RB's, at the graffiti.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2010

Sport ross ferguson 4 years ago

This is super hard.Will take me some time I expect. Oh and that will NOT be the name.

84 ** Ultimate tensile strength

Start at the True North boulder problem, climb this for its first 2 bolts and then head left via some cool pinches to the 2nd bolt of shit on you project. Go through some crazy techy bouldering that keeps getting harder. Eventually re-enter full metal traverse at its last bolt and finish at its anchor. someone should take this route straight up into grazed anatomy. The direct start to this route 'shit on u' project is still closed.

Set by Frey Yule and Ross fergusson, 2011

FFA: Sam Bowman, 7th Mar

29Sport 10m, 6
85 * True North / Grazed Anatomy DS

Start 3m L of Grazed Anatomy at ringbolts. Throw, pinch and scream for three bolts. After that, finish up Grazed Anatomy.

FFA: Frey Yule, 2009

29Sport 15m, 10 Matt Schimke 2 years ago

3 more shots, two on sat, one on sun. Worked things out, went to the top of grazed anatomy and cl...

Matt Schimke 2 years ago

Trying the start again, didnt do so well but I think I just need to try harder. Its definitely a ...

86 ** Communication Breakdown/ true metal

Direct start to Full Metal Traverse (start at the true north boulder problem and head left to finish at full metal's anchor. So bouldery and sustained.

Set by Frey Yule

FFA: Oliver Miller, 2012

29Sport 12m, 7
87 Full Metal Traverse

Start as for Chevy, but traverse the lip directly left on bouldery moves. Mind the third clip.

FFA: Frey Yule, 2007

27Sport 12m, 7 Justin Case 12 months ago

Very very humbling! 4 shots, linked from the ground to the third, then from the third to the fift...

Lucy Stirling 1 years ago

Bouldery but good fun

88 ** Grazed Anatomy

Climb FMT past four bolts, then up past another five. At last bolt, mantle lip of cave and stand on top triumphant.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2008

27Sport 15m, 9 jjobrien 4 years ago

I was just going up to get my draws back, feeling a bit crappy, heaps of stuff ups but hung on li...

jjobrien 4 years ago

retrospective entry, can't remember what happened

89 Who Grazed My Chevy? (linkup)

Climb to Chevy's last bolt, go left and finish up GA.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2008

25Sport 15m jjobrien 10 months ago

Got it second shot. Putting the gear on. w/ Rob Saunders

Lee Cujes 4 years ago

I did the FA of this route at the time I did Grazed Anatomy, not recorded. However I also did it ...

90 ** Has It Got a Chevy Motor?

Start just to the left of Yoink. By far the most popular route at the crag. Now rebolted.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

24Sport 12m, 7 Matt Earsman 9 months ago

2 burns, got the hold after the crux on 1st go no clip, just a whip. Next time....

Matt Earsman 9 months ago

Had a burn today on this, one extra move logged, the crux jug is VERY wet today, and the part abo...

91 Yoink

On the very R end of the cave. Climb crack on UBs to wacky "rest" on arete. Continue through the steep stuff to shared anchor.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1998

FFA: Vickie Sullivan, 2000

24Sport 10m, 6 Tom Kjaer-Olsen 1 years ago

Warming up. Still feels hard.

Tom Kjaer-Olsen 1 years ago

Worked out all the moves, felt trickier than Chevy.

92 * Rocket Man

A short easy trad route underneath Yoink. Start at small tree and climb through the orange rock.

FFA: Matt Schimke, 2008

14Trad 9m Matt Schimke 5 years ago

New trad lead climb, underneath chevy

Matt Schimke 5 years ago

Trad climb

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
14 * Rocket Man Trad 9m
V0 Pins and Needles Boulder
18 The David Low Way Sport 12m, 6
19 Demolition Boy Sport 12m, 7
20 Dave Sport 12m, 9
Friends in High Places Sport 12m, 6
V3 ** Twister Boulder
23 * Kept Man Sport 10m
** Purple Haze Sport 7m, 5
Relative Affection Sport 18m, 7
V4 * Squatting Frenchman Boulder
24 * Beer, Boobs and Jerky Sport 10m
Demolition Man Sport 15m, 9
** Has It Got a Chevy Motor? Sport 12m, 7
Horny Fuzz (linkup) Sport 11m
Yoink Sport 10m, 6
25 Caught By The Fuzz Sport 10m, 3
** Crazy Horny Sport 10m, 4
Five Minute Abs Sport 12m, 4
** Frey's Link Sport 10m, 5
** Hung Like A Fruit Bat Sport 8m, 5
** La Cucaracha Airhorns Sport 12m
Still on a Buzz (open project) Sport Project 15m, 7
*** The David Lee Roth Sport 20m, 12
** Ultraviolet Sport 15m, 7
Who Grazed My Chevy? (linkup) Sport 15m
V5 * Kapow Boulder
Slap that Belly Boulder
26 *** Black Leather Dungarees Sport 20m, 11
** CLOSED - Powderkeg Sport 30m, 20
** Caught With a Horny Weapon (linkup) Sport 15m
* Cleared For Takeoff Sport 20m, 11
** Crouching Tiger, Hidden Climber Sport 15m, 12
** Eraserhead Sport 12m, 5
* Horny Anatomy (linkup) Sport 17m, 12
* Nuts In High Places Sport 22m, 10
*** Screaming Insanity Sport 15m, 9
** Screaming Spoonman (linkup) Sport 19m, 12
** Sister Two Strokes (linkup) Sport 20m, 10
** Three Men and A Ladder Sport 10m, 5
*** Wholly Calamity Sport 20m, 12
27 ** Big Boy, Big Problems (linkup) Sport 30m
** Drums Not Guns Sport 20m, 11
Full Metal Traverse Sport 12m, 7
** Gonna Fly Now Sport 30m, 16
** Grazed Anatomy Sport 15m, 9
** Ground Control Sport 12m
** Separation Anxiety Sport 8m, 5
** The Antipump Sport 10m
** Tropic Thunder Sport 22m, 5
*** Weapon of Choice Sport 15m, 9
28 ** Bloody Weapon Sport 15m
*** Call of Duty Sport 25m, 16
** Eight Minute Abs Sport 12m, 7
*** Gasoline Rainbow Sport 15m, 9
In Memoriam Sport 25m, 12
*** Spoonman Sport 20m, 11
Thunderbirds Sport 20m, 10
29 *** A Kneebar Too Far Sport 12m, 6
*** Bring Back The Kneebar Sport 16m, 8
** Communication Breakdown/ true metal Sport 12m, 7
** Evel Knievel Sport 15m
** Fire the Panzerschrek Sport 28m, 17
** Four Metres of Madness Sport 4m, 5
** Knifey Spooney Sport 22m, 10
* Prime Evil Sport 25m
** Space Oddity Sport 15m, 9
*** Tropical Thunderbirds Sport 20m, 10
* True North Sport 15m, 10
** Ultimate tensile strength Sport 10m, 6
30 *** Evil Wears No Pants Sport 20m, 11
** UFO Sport 14m, 7
29 to 31 Hang High (closed project) Sport Project 30m, 12
31 ** Bite The Hand That Feeds Sport 23m, 10
* Flying saucer (project open) Sport Project 15m, 9
*** Thriller Sport 18m, 10
30 to 32 Pauls Wedding Present Sport Project 21m, 10
31 to 32 Taking Care Of Business (open project) Sport Project 24m, 10
32 *** Friction addiction Sport 23m, 11
31 to 33 ** The Seam Project Sport Project 20m, 10
32 to 33 ** Esoteric Agenda (closed project) Sport Project 15m, 9
37 Evil Wear no Rainbow Spoonman Pant's in his Chevy Motor Sport Project 180m, 37
? * Armed to the Teeth (open project) Sport Project 33m, 16
Caught by the Ranger (open project) Sport Project 29m, 16
** Kissing the Lip (open project) Sport Project 14m, 7
La Scoop Volante Sport Project 14m, 5
Scoopydoo Sport Project 16m, 7
? Shit On U Project (closed) Sport
The Spartan Abs Workout (open project) Sport Project 32m, 17
Paul's Project Sport Project 3
M1 * Gothic Architect Aid 7m
Mad Sneaky Roofy Sport Project 6