Mt Coolum Topos

Far left upper route. 7-8 FHs to DUBB. Access via Friends in High Places, then traverse L to DFHB on ledge.

Big holds to a rare crimp crux, then super horns into the sky. Joins BLD at its final bolt.

Crazy slippery rock. Challenge your friction technique.

Start at RA's anchor. Steep stuff straight above the belay. Traverse L under roof to wacky slab and a rest above. Huge jugs and horns comprise the final third. 11 U-bolts to DUBB. Second to clean. Rope length warning: It is more than 30m from anchor to ground. Suggestion: leader lowers, rope toss to pull back to belay, second to clean, lower second to ground, pull rope to start belay, rap off.

Amazing climbing which is never too hard, but quite continuous! Start at the top anchor of FIHP. Step L, then three RBs to unique cave move. Thug R to jutting horn. Breach "slab" above moving L to find some harder moves. A traverse L, then finish on jugs. DUBB. Nine RBs. Lower-off into the ocean. Use 60m rope.

A link up. Start as for Tropic Thunder clipping its last bolt then staying low traverse in and finish up Gasoline Rainbow.

A link up for some sustained climbing if you're tired of knee baring your way up things... though they will still help. Climb Tropic Thunder and above the last bolt, don't go right to clip the anchors, head left and finish up Gasoline Rainbow.

Climb FIHP to anchor, and then take a step right and climb straight up the overhung stemming groove to rooflet. Above this, bouldery, spacey moves await. Anchor on right.

The only non-steep warmup here. Okay climbing on slippery rock. Stickclip. Start R of the bolt and go diagonally up left to it. Traversing L while still under the 1st bolt adds a grade. Baffling moves up past 3-4 bolts until it slabs out, then head well left to double rings.

Climb this as one pitch from the ground. Climb FIHP, extending the last clip, and climb directly up the wall above past 5 RBs to wild conclusion which resembles mantling the end of a diving board.

Start up TDLW for three UB's, then trend slightly L past FH's up the ever steepening wall past some crazy looking horns and the odd dodgy aid bolt. The top horn (the biggest at Coolum) rings when you tap it! Ride 'em cowboy!

Climb Dave until you're at the double UB's above the diving board. Continue directly out the roof for some of the steepest climbing and THE biggest, craziest holds at Coolum. Finish at C4T's anchor.

Like Woodridge, had a name change and a rebolt to hopefully generate more interest. Follow four U-bolts up deceiving slab before traversing/walking directly right past two FH's and mantling up into the cave. You'll need a seconder to clean this route.

Get safe at TDLW anchor and pull and re-drop your rope for a ground belay. From this point, climb up and out left on FHs and biiig holds to a confounding and onsight-ruining finale.

In the middle of the giant scoop make your way on some funky blob under the roof. Mantle over the lip and finish at AP anchor.

Start at the 'Nick' graffiti. Four RBs then finish up BBaJ. One big boulder problem with every move a hardie. The slot in the roof can be damp after rain and is completely frictionless. Deserves much more attention!

Stay off, Allan got that one into the pipeline. Star into the giant scoop, right of David Low Way. Could finish at same anchor or keep going into Eraserhead.

In the middle of the giant scoop make your way on some funky blob under the roof. Mantle over the lip and finish at AP anchor.

Start at the 'Nick' graffiti. Four RBs then finish up BBaJ. One big boulder problem with every move a hardie. The slot in the roof can be damp after rain and is completely frictionless. Deserves much more attention!

Up into the steep little cave, then across left to a hard move to gain the protruding jugs. Motor up the very overhanging arete on killer shark-fin jugs. Now rebolted with U-bolts.

Up the bulby horns out the roof to anchors. Feet more important than hands on this one. Ever so popular.

Starts a few metres right of Hung Like a Fruit Bat. Stick clip. Jump start, up, then across the roof and finish at HLAFB chains. Similar style to Fruit Bat, at a harder grade.

Ringbolts starting just R of TMAAL. A weird looking line which climbs really well. Make sure you bring your kneepads for this one. Popular.

Unrepeated weirdness! Climb AKTF then keep going for another 3 bolts. Make sure you use long draws on AKTF otherwise the rope drag is just enough to make the end move easy.

Futuristic ringbolted line. Matt Eatons unfinished project. One of the last remaining king lines, up for grab.

Futuristic ringbolted line. Matt Eatons unfinished project. One of the last remaining king lines, up for grab.

Climb Evil for three bolts before trending sharply left for a burly traverse below SO (past the weird double bolts). Joins SO for its top two bolts.

Start up the first 3 bolts of Evil, then veer up and left for another 3 bolts before getting a weird ledge rest. A few more moves and you're done.

Climb Evil, but veer left before cave and up the face above encountering some bouldery moves.

The 70 degree overhung madness that rears above the walking track. One of the best steep routes in Australia. Amazingly this was the first route to be equipped at Coolum (2 bolts); it was then extended another 2 bolts and attempted by various suitors over the next 15 years. In early 2008, Adam Donaghue refreshed the hardware & added two extensions, beginning both from a batman start on the U-bolt (Ground Control 28 going L and Major Tom 30 going straight up). Lee linked up the boulder problem start with Major Tom and Evil Wears No Pants was reborn as one of Queensland's 'King Lines'!

Start up the first two bolts of Evil before heading right and up the blankish face. Closed.

4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Futuristic. Two hard boulder problems to classic upper wall. Unrepeated.

All the move as been done but no one was able to take care of this one. Tom OH and Oliver M got busy on it but are now living overstate. Bouldery start, eventually get on Bite the Hand headwall. Finish straight up on his own anchor.

Two FHs placed in impossible-looking territory. Could link into Thriller or Motor Finance

What a thrilling route! Start as for EWNP, traverse slightly right at the second bolt, then ascend past 3 new bolts before re-joining EWNP. This avoids the no hands rest on EWNP, resulting in a more sustained route of continuous climbing.

4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Futuristic. Two hard boulder problems to classic upper wall. Unrepeated.

All the move as been done but no one was able to take care of this one. Tom OH and Oliver M got busy on it but are now living overstate. Bouldery start, eventually get on Bite the Hand headwall. Finish straight up on his own anchor.

Starting on the slopey madness, just to the right of small cave. Climbs straight up onto "slab" and steep overhang above, to finish at the BTHTF anchor.

The fainted crack feature that lead directly to the upper part of Spoonman.

Bouldery start left of Screaming. Snatch the knife hold and link into Spoonman.

Bust out L from SI at 5th bolt. Great rock and good sequences have quickly made this a popular tick at the grade.

The must-do crag classic, featuring the biggest and most aesthetic horns and jugs on the wall. When this was first bolted, there was nobody strong enough to climb it. Oh how things change!

This is the extension to Screaming Insanity. No harder, just pumpier! Three more bolts keep the lactic levels up.

Starting as for SI, step R on ramp and then blast the line above. Wear a shirt. You'll see.

Start with the boulder problem SI, and then ramble easily up R to belay on a cool ledge in a really good position.

Steepest route in Coolum. Start in back of cave R of SI. Stick clip first 2 bolts. Finish L of final bolt over the mantle.

A short bouldery route traversing the lip of the cave from right to left. This route consumed Ross' life for a time.

Start right of Sceaming for some Mad roof climbing.

A short bouldery route traversing the lip of the cave from right to left. This route consumed Ross' life for a time.

The left trending line that starts left of WOC. The first half dozen moves make up the crux and are extremely bouldery requiring some strong core work to a huge bucket. From there it's a 45 degree wall with mostly big moves to big holds and a tricky finish to finish near the top of Demolition Man.

Start as Eight Minutes Abs. Join into Weapon of Choice and finish it.

The line starting at ground level, 10m L of the R end of cave. Stick-clip the very high first ringbolt. Probably the most beta intensive route here. At least seven kneebars.

Starts 3m left of CH. Small roof leads to easy top.

Do Caught by the Fuzz and keep going over the roof above the anchor. Finish at the niche just under Kissing the Lip.

Start at the CF extention anchor. straight up following the right hand seam. Finish on the perch above the lip of the cave.

Popular. Bouldery start then steep thuggery. The horn sadly broke changing the sequence. Many people's first 25.

Start 3m L of Grazed Anatomy at ringbolts. Throw, pinch and scream for three bolts. After that, finish up Grazed Anatomy.

Start as for Chevy, but traverse the lip directly left on bouldery moves. Mind the third clip.

Climb FMT past four bolts, then up past another five. At last bolt, mantle lip of cave and stand on top triumphant.

Start just to the left of Yoink. By far the most popular route at the crag. Now rebolted.

On the very R end of the cave. Climb crack on UBs to wacky "rest" on arete. Continue through the steep stuff to shared anchor.

Climb Crazy Horny into Frey's Link (to the anchors of FMT - 600mm sling), but keep going over the block and finish up Grazed Anatomy.

Climb Crazy Horny to anchor on Full Metal Traverse via a two bolt link-up. Actually involves downclimbing. A better finish.