Topo #205

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
3 Relative Affection

Crazy slippery rock. Challenge your friction technique.

23 Sport 18m, 7 Unlink route
10 Friends in High Places

The only non-steep warmup here. Okay climbing on slippery rock. Stickclip. Start R of the bolt and go diagonally up left to it. Traversing L while still under the 1st bolt adds a grade. Baffling moves up past 3-4 bolts until it slabs out, then head well left to double rings.

20 Sport 12m, 6 Unlink route
16 The David Low Way

Like Woodridge, had a name change and a rebolt to hopefully generate more interest. Follow four U-bolts up deceiving slab before traversing/walking directly right past two FH's and mantling up into the cave. You'll need a seconder to clean this route.

18 Sport 12m, 6 Unlink route
21 ** The Antipump

Start at the 'Nick' graffiti. Four RBs then finish up BBaJ. One big boulder problem with every move a hardie. The slot in the roof can be damp after rain and is completely frictionless. Deserves much more attention!

27 Sport 10m Unlink route
6 *** Gasoline Rainbow

Amazing climbing which is never too hard, but quite continuous! Start at the top anchor of FIHP. Step L, then three RBs to unique cave move. Thug R to jutting horn. Breach "slab" above moving L to find some harder moves. A traverse L, then finish on jugs. DUBB. Nine RBs. Lower-off into the ocean. Use 60m rope.

28 Sport 15m, 9 Unlink route
12 * Cleared For Takeoff

Start up TDLW for three UB's, then trend slightly L past FH's up the ever steepening wall past some crazy looking horns and the odd dodgy aid bolt. The top horn (the biggest at Coolum) rings when you tap it! Ride 'em cowboy!

26 Sport 20m, 11 Unlink route
14 Dave

A new warm-up option. Up TDLW for four UBs. Instead of traversing right as for TDLW, go straight up past another three UBs into the cave. Finish atop the diving board (double U-bolts). Lower-off.

20 Sport 12m, 9 Unlink route
15 *** The David Lee Roth

Climb Dave until you're at the double UB's above the diving board. Continue directly out the roof for some of the steepest climbing and THE biggest, craziest holds at Coolum. Finish at C4T's anchor.

25 Sport 20m, 12 Unlink route

Topo #206

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
21 ** The Antipump

Start at the 'Nick' graffiti. Four RBs then finish up BBaJ. One big boulder problem with every move a hardie. The slot in the roof can be damp after rain and is completely frictionless. Deserves much more attention!

27 Sport 10m Unlink route
22 * Beer, Boobs and Jerky

Up into the steep little cave, then across left to a hard move to gain the protruding jugs. Motor up the very overhanging arete on killer shark-fin jugs. Now rebolted with U-bolts.

24 Sport 10m Unlink route
25 ** Hung Like A Fruit Bat

Up the bulby horns out the roof to anchors. Feet more important than hands on this one. Ever so popular.

25 Sport 8m, 5 Unlink route
26 ** Three Men and A Ladder

Starts a few metres right of Hung Like a Fruit Bat. Stick clip. Jump start, up, then across the roof and finish at HLAFB chains. Similar style to Fruit Bat, at a harder grade.

26 Sport 10m, 5 Unlink route
27 *** A Kneebar Too Far

Ringbolts starting just R of TMAAL. A weird looking line which climbs really well. Make sure you bring your kneepads for this one. Popular.

29 Sport 12m, 6 Unlink route
29 ** UFO

The direct start of Kneebar. Extremely bouldery and powerful compression climbing which will make you beg for mercy! The crux might be the hardest move at the crag?

30 Sport 14m, 7 Unlink route
28 *** Bring Back The Kneebar

Unrepeated weirdness! Climb AKTF then keep going for another 3 bolts. Make sure you use long draws on AKTF otherwise the rope drag is just enough to make the end move easy.

29 Sport 16m, 8 Unlink route
31 ** Esoteric Agenda (closed project)

Mat Eaton's futuristic projects. One of the last remaining king lines of Coolum; it follows the line of ring bolts to a double bolt anchor. This project remains closed and should be respected unless permission is sought directly from Mat. Sebastian Loewensteijn takes responsibility for newly added bolts and repairing several of the holds on the route after pulling them off. Kind regards, Sebastian.

32 to 33 Sport Project 15m, 9 Unlink route
30 * Flying saucer (project open)

Go from UFO all the way through to bring back the kneebar. Gonna be hard and funky.

31 Sport Project 15m, 9 Unlink route

Topo #207

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
33 ** Evel Knievel

Climb Evil for three bolts before trending sharply left for a burly traverse below SO (past the weird double bolts). Joins SO for its top two bolts.

29 Sport 15m Unlink route
34 ** Space Oddity

Start up the first 3 bolts of Evil, then veer up and left for another 3 bolts before getting a weird ledge rest. A few more moves and you're done.

29 Sport 15m, 9 Unlink route
36 * Prime Evil

Climb Evil, but veer left before cave and up the face above encountering some bouldery moves.

29 Sport 25m Unlink route
37 *** Evil Wears No Pants

The 70 degree overhung madness that rears above the walking track. One of the best steep routes in Australia. Amazingly this was the first route to be equipped at Coolum (2 bolts); it was then extended another 2 bolts and attempted by various suitors over the next 15 years. In early 2008, Adam Donaghue refreshed the hardware & added two extensions, beginning both from a batman start on the U-bolt (Ground Control 28 going L and Major Tom 30 going straight up). Lee linked up the boulder problem start with Major Tom and Evil Wears No Pants was reborn as one of Queensland's 'King Lines'!

30 Sport 20m, 11 Unlink route
41 ** Bite The Hand That Feeds

4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Futuristic. Two hard boulder problems to classic upper wall. Unrepeated.

31 Sport 23m, 10 Unlink route
45 Taking Care Of Business (open project)

All the move as been done but no one was able to take care of this one. Tom OH and Oliver M got busy on it but are now living overstate. Bouldery start, eventually get on Bite the Hand headwall. Finish straight up on his own anchor.

31 to 32 Sport Project 24m, 10 Unlink route
38 *** Thriller

What a thrilling route! Start as for EWNP, traverse slightly right at the second bolt, then ascend past 3 new bolts before re-joining EWNP. This avoids the no hands rest on EWNP, resulting in a more sustained route of continuous climbing.

31 Sport 18m, 10 Unlink route
39 *** Friction addiction

Was previously known as 'the motor finance wizard project' Start up the first two bolts of Evil before heading right and up the blankish face. Huge throws on slopey holds guard the crux. The top is exciting and ever so pumpy.

32 Sport 23m, 11 Unlink route
31 ** Esoteric Agenda (closed project)

Mat Eaton's futuristic projects. One of the last remaining king lines of Coolum; it follows the line of ring bolts to a double bolt anchor. This project remains closed and should be respected unless permission is sought directly from Mat. Sebastian Loewensteijn takes responsibility for newly added bolts and repairing several of the holds on the route after pulling them off. Kind regards, Sebastian.

32 to 33 Sport Project 15m, 9 Unlink route

Topo #208

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
41 ** Bite The Hand That Feeds

4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Futuristic. Two hard boulder problems to classic upper wall. Unrepeated.

31 Sport 23m, 10 Unlink route
45 Taking Care Of Business (open project)

All the move as been done but no one was able to take care of this one. Tom OH and Oliver M got busy on it but are now living overstate. Bouldery start, eventually get on Bite the Hand headwall. Finish straight up on his own anchor.

31 to 32 Sport Project 24m, 10 Unlink route
47 ** The Seam Project

The fainted crack feature that lead directly to the upper part of Spoonman. Start as Knifey Spooney.

31 to 33 Sport Project 20m, 10 Unlink route
48 ** Knifey Spooney

Bouldery start left of Screaming. Control the move to the knife hold and link into Spoonman.

29 Sport 22m, 10 Unlink route
49 *** Spoonman

Bust out L from SI at 5th bolt. Great rock and good sequences have quickly made this a popular tick at the grade.

28 Sport 20m, 11 Unlink route
50 *** Screaming Insanity

The must-do crag classic, featuring the biggest and most aesthetic horns and jugs on the wall. When this was first bolted, there was nobody strong enough to climb it. Oh how things change!

26 Sport 15m, 9 Unlink route
52 *** Wholly Calamity

This is the extension to Screaming Insanity. No harder, just pumpier! Three more bolts keep the lactic levels up.

26 Sport 20m, 12 Unlink route
53 ** Crouching Tiger, Hidden Climber

Starting as for SI, step R on ramp and then blast the line above. Wear a shirt. You'll see.

26 Sport 15m, 12 Unlink route
55 Demolition Man

Start with the boulder problem SI, and then ramble easily up R to belay on a cool ledge in a really good position.

24 Sport 15m, 9 Unlink route
61 ** Four Metres of Madness

Steepest route in Coolum. Start in back of cave R of SI. Stick clip first 2 bolts. Finish L of final bolt over the mantle.

29 Sport 4m, 5 Unlink route
62 ** Separation Anxiety

A short bouldery route traversing the lip of the cave from right to left. This route consumed Ross' life for a time.

27 Sport 8m, 5 Unlink route
60 Sneaky Roofy

Start right of Sceaming for some Mad roof climbing.

Mad Sport Project 6 Unlink route

Topo #209

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
62 ** Separation Anxiety

A short bouldery route traversing the lip of the cave from right to left. This route consumed Ross' life for a time.

27 Sport 8m, 5 Unlink route
63 Five Minute Abs

Eight Minute Abs from the batman start. Mostly jugs with a bit of spice at the end.

25 Sport 12m, 4 Unlink route
64 ** Eight Minute Abs

The left trending line that starts left of WOC. The first half dozen moves make up the crux and are extremely bouldery requiring some strong core work to a huge bucket. From there it's a 45 degree wall with mostly big moves to big holds and a tricky finish to finish near the top of Demolition Man.

28 Sport 12m, 7 Unlink route
66 The Spartan Abs Workout (open project)
Sport Project 32m, 17 Unlink route
67 ** Bloody Weapon

Start as Eight Minutes Abs. Join into Weapon of Choice and finish it.

28 Sport 15m Unlink route
69 *** Weapon of Choice

The line starting at ground level, 10m L of the R end of cave. Stick-clip the very high first ringbolt. Probably the most beta intensive route here. At least seven kneebars.

27 Sport 15m, 9 Unlink route
70 *** Call of Duty

Logical finish for WC. Cruxy finish on the upper arête . 14m overhung. A right variant finish is possible at the base of the arête.

28 Sport 25m, 16 Unlink route
73 Caught By The Fuzz

Starts 3m left of CH. Small roof leads to easy top.

25 Sport 10m, 3 Unlink route
79 ** Crazy Horny

Popular. Bouldery start then steep thuggery. The horn sadly broke changing the sequence. Many people's first 25.

25 Sport 10m, 4 Unlink route
80 ** Frey's Link

Climb Crazy Horny skipping the 4th bolt, to anchor on Full Metal Traverse via a two bolt link-up. A bouldery finale actually involves downclimbing. A better finish.

25 Sport 10m, 5 Unlink route
87 Full Metal Traverse

Start as for Chevy, but traverse the lip directly left on bouldery moves. Mind the third clip.

27 Sport 12m, 7 Unlink route
88 ** Grazed Anatomy

Climb FMT past four bolts, then up past another five. At last bolt, mantle lip of cave and stand on top triumphant.

27 Sport 15m, 9 Unlink route
90 ** Has It Got a Chevy Motor?

Start just to the left of Yoink. By far the most popular route at the crag. Now rebolted.

24 Sport 12m, 7 Unlink route
91 Yoink

On the very R end of the cave. Climb crack on UBs to wacky "rest" on arete. Continue through the steep stuff to shared anchor.

24 Sport 10m, 6 Unlink route
81 * Horny Anatomy (linkup)

Climb Crazy Horny into Frey's Link (to the anchors of FMT - 600mm sling), but keep going over the block and finish up Grazed Anatomy.

26 Sport 17m, 12 Unlink route
86 ** Communication Breakdown/ true metal

Direct start to Full Metal Traverse (start at the true north boulder problem and head left to finish at full metal's anchor. So bouldery and sustained.

29 Sport 12m, 7 Unlink route
83 Shit On U Project (closed)

The line left of TN on RB's, at the graffiti.

Sport Unlink route
84 ** Ultimate tensile strength

Start at the True North boulder problem, climb this for its first 2 bolts and then head left via some cool pinches to the 2nd bolt of shit on you project. Go through some crazy techy bouldering that keeps getting harder. Eventually re-enter full metal traverse at its last bolt and finish at its anchor. someone should take this route straight up into grazed anatomy. The direct start to this route 'shit on u' project is still closed.

29 Sport 10m, 6 Unlink route
85 * True North

Start 3m L of Grazed Anatomy at ringbolts. Throw, pinch and scream for three bolts. After that, finish up Grazed Anatomy.

29 Sport 15m, 10 Unlink route