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So far, adventure sport climbing on rock of variable quality. Single and multi-pitch. Quality hardware – fixed hangers and U-bolts. No carrots!
What to bring • 15 quickdraws plus the usual slings and screwgates. • Wear a helmet climbing and belaying. There is plenty of loose rock. • Bring two ropes. One 60m for leading with another of at least 50m for double-rope abseils. • Bring mozzie repellent and sunscreen.
Summer day trip beta 8:00am: Leave Brisbane driving north 9:40am: Toilet and food stop in Pomona 9:50am: Walk up to cliff 10:10am: Jug a fixed line (if you're lucky) to the upper ledge, or climb one of the routes (in the sun) 10:45am-3:00pm: Climb upper level routes in the shade 3:00pm: Rap to ground and climb lower level slab routes (in shade) 5:00pm: Walk out 7:15pm: Back in Brisbane
The drive (nearly two hours from Bris) Drive north from Brisbane ~150km on the Bruce Highway past Cooroy, turn R at Pioneer Rd (pull over here for a good view of the cliff). Follow signs to Pomona. From the main street of Pomona, turn L at the main roundabout, then L again (Hospital St) then R on Mountain St. Follow for a minute or so. Park at the picnic shelter at the Mt Cooroora Park.
The walk in (12 minutes) • Walk across the road, don’t go up the “hiking trail” instead go down the old road though the gully and gate up to old quarry (150m) • Join road veering L, follow. (150m) • Junction. Go straight. Down through gully and up. (200m) • Turn R at fire break road, follow. (250m) • Barbed wire gate over road. Don’t cross. Go up R following fence to spur (fallen timber). (130 steps) • Up spur through she-oaks. (50 steps) • Contour L glimpsing the cliff ahead. Watch carefully to stay on vague track, crossing three gullies. (250m) • Hit the rock apron and walk L to locate 45m high multicoloured slab. (50 steps)
Often eyed but rarely attempted. The seemingly poor quality of the rock and the lack of trustworthy natural protection has thwarted most attempts at climbing here previously. A three pitch free and aid route was established in 1975 by Robert Staszewski & Fred From but is now rusted and overgrown. Adam Donoghue did an “easy and pretty crappy” natural route in mid 90s, details unrecorded. Lee & Sam Cujes attempted a ground-up route on the North Faces in 2003 but bailed before the summit. JJ O’Brien and party rapped into a stance somewhere on the (sunny) North Faces and climbed out via a nice crackline they called “Not The King Of The Mountain”.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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