Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Description

So far, adventure sport climbing on rock of variable quality. Single and multi-pitch. Quality hardware – fixed hangers and U-bolts. No carrots!

What to bring • 15 quickdraws plus the usual slings and screwgates. • Wear a helmet climbing and belaying. There is plenty of loose rock. • Bring two ropes. One 60m for leading with another of at least 50m for double-rope abseils. • Bring mozzie repellent and sunscreen.

Summer day trip beta 8:00am: Leave Brisbane driving north 9:40am: Toilet and food stop in Pomona 9:50am: Walk up to cliff 10:10am: Jug a fixed line (if you're lucky) to the upper ledge, or climb one of the routes (in the sun) 10:45am-3:00pm: Climb upper level routes in the shade 3:00pm: Rap to ground and climb lower level slab routes (in shade) 5:00pm: Walk out 7:15pm: Back in Brisbane

Approach

The drive (nearly two hours from Bris) Drive north from Brisbane ~150km on the Bruce Highway past Cooroy, turn R at Pioneer Rd (pull over here for a good view of the cliff). Follow signs to Pomona. From the main street of Pomona, turn L at the main roundabout, then L again (Hospital St) then R on Mountain St. Follow for a minute or so. Park at the picnic shelter at the Mt Cooroora Park.

The walk in (12 minutes) • Walk across the road, don’t go up the “hiking trail” instead go down the old road though the gully and gate up to old quarry (150m) • Join road veering L, follow. (150m) • Junction. Go straight. Down through gully and up. (200m) • Turn R at fire break road, follow. (250m) • Barbed wire gate over road. Don’t cross. Go up R following fence to spur (fallen timber). (130 steps) • Up spur through she-oaks. (50 steps) • Contour L glimpsing the cliff ahead. Watch carefully to stay on vague track, crossing three gullies. (250m) • Hit the rock apron and walk L to locate 45m high multicoloured slab. (50 steps)

History

Often eyed but rarely attempted. The seemingly poor quality of the rock and the lack of trustworthy natural protection has thwarted most attempts at climbing here previously. A three pitch free and aid route was established in 1975 by Robert Staszewski & Fred From but is now rusted and overgrown. Adam Donoghue did an “easy and pretty crappy” natural route in mid 90s, details unrecorded. Lee & Sam Cujes attempted a ground-up route on the North Faces in 2003 but bailed before the summit. JJ O’Brien and party rapped into a stance somewhere on the (sunny) North Faces and climbed out via a nice crackline they called “Not The King Of The Mountain”.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
21 ** Surface Complexity Sport 45m, 15

Two cruxy bits of extreme thinness padded out with joyous angular jugs and slots.

FA: John J. O'Brien, David Steptoe, 2006

2
20 * Every Creeping Thing Sport 37m, 12

Some big gymnastic moves on monster jugs. Up the corner and overhangs, pull L onto the buttress at half height. Belay at stance just below the top. Use fixed handline to gain ledge proper.

FA: John J. O'Brien, David Steptoe, 2006

3
22 * No Crème No Lait Sport 45m, 10

About 10m L of ECT is a deep V corner. Climb the L wall easily past two FH's, then ramble up easy angled terrain passing FH till possible to pull L onto slab (FH). Follow the line of FH's up the enjoyable easy slab which gets more difficult as you move higher. The final moves traversing R on pockets are sure to excite. Chain belay on ledge.

FA: Lee Cujes, John J. O'Brien, 2006

FFA: Lee Cujes, John J. O’Brien, 2006

4
26 *** Ill Gotten Gains Sport 30m

From R end of ledge, traverse out R and diagonally up the slab to base of overhung arête. Up, with some unlikely, and then balancy moves on amazing scoopy rock features. Mind-blower!

FA: 2007

5
23 ** Bolt From The Blue Sport 29m, 11

From the R end of the ledge, pull through bulge onto slab passing several FH's until it steepens. 'Layback' and pass the old rusty aid bolt via a stern move R. Now balance your way up the continually interesting arete to rap station. This "Warm-up" of the ledge still demands respect.

FA: Lee Cujes, John J. O'Brien, 2006

6

Climb BFTB for six FH's before stepping L and up past another five FH's to lower off in corner. Interesting and technical climbing, the only downside being portions of questionable rock. All the critical holds are solid, but please, no cleaning beyond a toothbrush.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2007

7
26 *** Suspension Trauma Sport 24m, 12

Starts 2m R of the middle U-bolt anchor on ledge. Up onto slab (FH), moving up L into corner beneath roof (clip FH on L wall with 120cm sling). With hands above roof, stretch R to clip FH above lip, and crank through. Traverse R (FH) and up into corner (FH). Now negotiate three overhung bulges past FH's. Surmount the last bulge before the big ledge by throwing R. The final scoopy headwall has three FH's and a sting in the tail. Lower off.

FA: Lee Cujes, John J. O'Brien, Gareth Llewellin, 2006

8

Keep off. The furthest L bolted line on the ledge.

FA: Duncan Steel, 2000

9

Some masochists will surely want to repeat this! Start below the black shield, in a right curving corner.

  1. 50m (- M2) Up corner to tree. Six aids. The ledge was originally dubbed "Snake Ledge"

  2. 30m (-) As for 'Bolt From The Blue', but then aid and free diagonally R to base of black corner (overgrown with ferns).

  3. 55m (-) Up corner (bolts and gear) to ledge, up to top.

FA: Robert Staszewski, Fred From, 1975

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.