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Description

So far, adventure sport climbing on rock of variable quality. Single and multi-pitch. Quality hardware – fixed hangers and U-bolts. No carrots!

What to bring • 15 quickdraws plus the usual slings and screwgates. • Wear a helmet climbing and belaying. There is plenty of loose rock. • Bring two ropes. One 60m for leading with another of at least 50m for double-rope abseils. • Bring mozzie repellent and sunscreen.

Summer day trip beta 8:00am: Leave Brisbane driving north 9:40am: Toilet and food stop in Pomona 9:50am: Walk up to cliff 10:10am: Jug a fixed line (if you're lucky) to the upper ledge, or climb one of the routes (in the sun) 10:45am-3:00pm: Climb upper level routes in the shade 3:00pm: Rap to ground and climb lower level slab routes (in shade) 5:00pm: Walk out 7:15pm: Back in Brisbane

Approach

The drive (nearly two hours from Bris) Drive north from Brisbane ~150km on the Bruce Highway past Cooroy, turn R at Pioneer Rd (pull over here for a good view of the cliff). Follow signs to Pomona. From the main street of Pomona, turn L at the main roundabout, then L again (Hospital St) then R on Mountain St. Follow for a minute or so. Park at the picnic shelter at the Mt Cooroora Park.

The walk in (15 minutes) • Walk across the road, don’t go up the “hiking trail” instead go down the old road (to the left of the "hiking trail") though the gate and up to track junction then go left.

Follow along until next track junction. Go straight ahead leaving main track and onto one lane foot track.

Go Down through gully and up.

Turn R at fire break road, follow until you reach the barbed wire fence across road.

Follow fence line UP the hill and stay on the now well worn track until the cliff face is reached. Be carefull as track is at times steep. Work is ongoing to improve the track.

History

Often eyed but rarely attempted. The seemingly poor quality of the rock and the lack of trustworthy natural protection has thwarted most attempts at climbing here previously. A three pitch free and aid route was established in 1975 by Robert Staszewski & Fred From but is now rusted and overgrown. Adam Donoghue did an “easy and pretty crappy” natural route in mid 90s, details unrecorded. Lee & Sam Cujes attempted a ground-up route on the North Faces in 2003 but bailed before the summit. JJ O’Brien and party rapped into a stance somewhere on the (sunny) North Faces and climbed out via a nice crackline they called “Not The King Of The Mountain”.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
21 ** Surface Complexity Sport 45m, 15

Two cruxy bits of extreme thinness padded out with joyous angular jugs and slots.

FA: John J. O'Brien, David Steptoe, 2006

2

Some masochists will surely want to repeat this! Start below the black shield, in a right curving corner.

  1. 50m (- M2) Up corner to tree. Six aids. The ledge was originally dubbed "Snake Ledge"

  2. 30m (-) As for 'Bolt From The Blue', but then aid and free diagonally R to base of black corner (overgrown with ferns).

  3. 55m (-) Up corner (bolts and gear) to ledge, up to top.

FA: Robert Staszewski, Fred From, 1975

3
20 * Every Creeping Thing Sport 37m, 12

Some big gymnastic moves on monster jugs. Up the corner and overhangs, pull L onto the buttress at half height. Belay at stance just below the top. Use fixed handline to gain ledge proper.

FA: John J. O'Brien, David Steptoe, 2006

4
22 * No Crème No Lait Sport 45m, 10

About 10m L of ECT is a deep V corner. Climb the L wall easily past two FH's, then ramble up easy angled terrain passing FH till possible to pull L onto slab (FH). Follow the line of FH's up the enjoyable easy slab which gets more difficult as you move higher. The final moves traversing R on pockets are sure to excite. Chain belay on ledge.

FA: Lee Cujes, John J. O'Brien, 2006

FFA: Lee Cujes, John J. O’Brien, 2006

5
26 *** Ill Gotten Gains Sport 30m

From R end of ledge, traverse out R and diagonally up the slab to base of overhung arête. Up, with some unlikely, and then balancy moves on amazing scoopy rock features. Mind-blower!

FA: 2007

6
23 ** Bolt From The Blue Sport 29m, 11

From the R end of the ledge, pull through bulge onto slab passing several FH's until it steepens. 'Layback' and pass the old rusty aid bolt via a stern move R. Now balance your way up the continually interesting arete to rap station. This "Warm-up" of the ledge still demands respect.

FA: Lee Cujes, John J. O'Brien, 2006

7

Climb BFTB for six FH's before stepping L and up past another five FH's to lower off in corner. Interesting and technical climbing, the only downside being portions of questionable rock. All the critical holds are solid, but please, no cleaning beyond a toothbrush.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2007

8
26 *** Suspension Trauma Sport 24m, 12

Starts 2m R of the middle U-bolt anchor on ledge. Up onto slab (FH), moving up L into corner beneath roof (clip FH on L wall with 120cm sling). With hands above roof, stretch R to clip FH above lip, and crank through. Traverse R (FH) and up into corner (FH). Now negotiate three overhung bulges past FH's. Surmount the last bulge before the big ledge by throwing R. The final scoopy headwall has three FH's and a sting in the tail. Lower off.

FA: Lee Cujes, John J. O'Brien, Gareth Llewellin, 2006

9

Keep off. The furthest L bolted line on the ledge.

FA: Duncan Steel, 2000

10

start 5 meters right of "surface complexity" follows 9 FH to DBL ring lower off. Up white line of rock great climbing through crux after third bolt and high crux to gain last bolt. Lower off small ledge at rings 10 meters directly below "ill gotten gains" FA Mason Minto and Lisa Gumley, FFA Ash Brand and Ash Colston 3/5/2014

Set by Mason Minto, 2014

FFA: Ash Brand, 2014

FA: Mason Minto, 2014

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
4
7
43m
3
8
22m
The cave Area
1
1
65m

Routes

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Grade Route
15
Project Mixed Project 35m, 10

Set by Zac Trembath-pitham

16
22 Touching the tarten Sport 35m, 10

Mixed take some nuts and small cams

Set by Mason Minto

FFA: Mason Minto

17
16 ** Dirty Chai Trad 35m

FFA: Mason Minto Zac Trembath-Pitham, 14th Jul

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades

Routes

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Grade Route
19
19 Meow! Sport 30m

FFA: Zac trembath- pitham

20
15 Be still you little! Sport 30m

FFA: Mason Minto zac trembath-pitham Lisa gumley

21
17 Angel tits Sport 36m

FFA: Zac trembath-pitham

22
14 You can call me pop Sport 25m

FFA: Zac trembath-pitham token black guy

23
14 Cat don't breath Sport 25m

Set by Zac trembath- pitham

FFA: Lisa gumley

24
14 The Cling rap killer Sport 25m

FFA: Token black guy zac trembath-pitham

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