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Description

The first wall to be given proper attention at Mt. Cooroora. It hosts a handful of superb moderate to difficult routes. Many of the routes start at the 'Snake Ledges' 40m off the deck. Access to this is via climbing either 'Surface Complexity', 'Every Creeping Thing', or 'Touching the Tartan'.

Access issues

The 'Snake Ledges' are affected by falcons. Please consider your impact.

Approach

After reaching 'Adventure Time Wall', walk leftwards along the cliff face until some impressive overhangs are in sight. This is the 'Main Wall'.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Climbs listed R to L

  1. 25m 21 shares the first two bolts of Odessa

  2. 25m 19

  3. 30m 23

  4. 30m 21 this pitch is mixed take some off set nuts and some micro cams and a number 3 bd

  5. 20m unfinished

Set by Kel & zac, 2015

FFA: Kel, zac & Daniel Sanguineti, 2016

FA: zac & Daniel Sanguineti, 2016

(Closed Project) Please stay off until complete

  1. 23

  2. Closed Project

  3. Unfinished

  4. 16

Start 5m right of Surface Complexity. Follows 9 FHs to DBL ring with a lower off. Up the white line of rock. Great climbing through the crux after third bolt and cruise through a high crux to gain last bolt. Lower off a small ledge at the anchor rings 10m directly below Ill Gotten Gains.

FFA: Ash Brand & Ash Colston, 2014

FA: Mason Minto & Lisa Gumley, 2014

Bolts, small nuts, and a range of cams will see you to the anchors.

FA: Zac Trembath-Pitham

FFA: Mason Minto

Set by Zac Trembath-Pitham, 2014

Two cruxy bits of extreme thinness padded out with joyous angular jugs and slots. U-Bolt anchors in cave. A 70m rope will suffice (just!).

FA: John J. O'Brien & David Steptoe, 2006

FFA: Mason Minto

Some masochists will surely want to repeat this! Start below the black shield, in a right curving corner.

  1. 50m (- M2) Up corner to tree. Six aids. The ledge was originally dubbed "Snake Ledge"

  2. 30m (-) As for 'Bolt From The Blue', but then aid and free diagonally R to base of black corner (overgrown with ferns).

  3. 55m (-) Up corner (bolts and gear) to ledge, up to top.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Fred From, 1975

Some big gymnastic moves on monster jugs. Up the corner and overhangs, pull L onto the buttress at half height; watch for loose blocks here. Belay at stance just below the top. Use fixed handline to gain ledge proper. Using a 70m rope will get you back to the ground.

Start: in shallow V-Corner on 3 FHs facing right (East).

FA: John J. O'Brien & David Steptoe, 2006

About 10m L of ECT is a deep V corner. Climb the L wall easily past two FH's, then ramble up easy angled terrain passing FH till possible to pull L onto slab (FH). Follow the line of FH's up the enjoyable easy slab which gets more difficult as you move higher. The final moves traversing R on pockets are sure to excite. Chain belay on ledge.

FFA: Lee Cujes & John J. O’Brien, 2006

Start: In the deep V-Gully on 2 FH on right (East) facing wall. High-ish first bolt. Shares the first 3 bolts of NCNL and finish up Dirty Chai anchors. Be sure to stay straight and not pull onto the NCNL slab.

Some old school trad done in the modern day!

FFA: Mason Minto & Zac Trembath-Pitham, 2014

The ledges above the Main face's ground level. Access by climbing either 'Surface Complexity', 'Every Creeping Thing', or 'Touching the Tartan'.

From R end of ledge, traverse out R and diagonally up the slab to base of overhung arête. Up, with some unlikely, and then balancy moves on amazing scoopy rock features. Mind-blower!

Set by jjobrien

FA: Lee Cujes, 2007

From the R end of the ledge, pull through bulge onto slab passing several FH's until it steepens. 'Layback' and pass the old rusty aid bolt via a stern move R. Now balance your way up the continually interesting arete to rap station. This "Warm-up" of the ledge still demands respect.

FA: Lee Cujes & John J. O'Brien, 2006

Climb BFTB for six FH's before stepping L and up past another five FH's to lower off in corner. Interesting and technical climbing, the only downside being portions of questionable rock. All the critical holds are solid, but please, no cleaning beyond a toothbrush.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2007

Starts 2m R of the middle U-bolt anchor on ledge. Up onto slab (FH), moving up L into corner beneath roof (clip FH on L wall with 120cm sling). With hands above roof, stretch R to clip FH above lip, and crank through. Traverse R (FH) and up into corner (FH). Now negotiate three overhung bulges past FH's. Surmount the last bulge before the big ledge by throwing R. The final scoopy headwall has three FH's and a sting in the tail. Lower off.

FA: Lee Cujes, John J. O'Brien & Gareth Llewellin, 2006

Around 25 - jump on, it's open. The furthest L bolted line on the ledge. This very humble line launched a career of bolting for Duncan.

Set by Duncan Steel, 2007

Activity

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