Mt Crawford Area Guide

Summary:

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Seasonality

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -34.731671, 138.922653

description

A collection of crags north-east of Adelaide. All are in areas managed by ForestrySA or adjacent parks and reserves.

Crags are ordered north to south

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Summary:

All Trad climbing

Not a destination to travel to, but if you are stuck at the Novotel south of Tanunda and desperate to boulder, this is 5 minutes walk. A brush is essential, and care with rock selection. Beware of paper wasps which are under all the best overhangs. These short cliffs are layered quartzite, and chossier the higher you go. Cliffs either side of river.

approach

From the hotel parkour circuit drop down to the creek from the balance beam. Alternatively walk to the river via the flying fox area. There are some cliffs here, but the better rock is a few hundred metres upstream above a large waterhole. Public access via the bridge downstream would work if fairly dry.

descent notes

Down climb/ jump off. Top outs are unstable

Summary:

description

East wall above waterhole

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -34.597517, 138.998261

description

Intro:: North of Adelaide in the Kaiserstuhl Forestry Reserve, West of the Kaiserstuhl Conservation Park.

access issues

Note:: This area is closed on days of extreme fire danger. Do not drive your vehicle into the Native Forest Reserve if gate is unlocked. Park outside the gate, ensuring the road and gate are not blocked to Forestry SA traffic. Overnight camping and campfires are not permitted at any time. The Reserve is open from sunrise to sunset every day. Do not feed the wildlife and stick to marked trails as much as is possible. Scrub off all tick marks before leaving and pack out all rubbish.

approach

General Location:: You can park your car in two places, the east carpark - small dirt road on corner of Brownes Rd and Heggies Rd, and the south carpark - on Brownes Rd. Park off to the side of the road and dont obstruct the gates. There is also access from the North via the conservation area, however rock climbing and bike riding is banned in this area, so entering from here should only be done on foot and not carting pads in. Beware of Google maps suggesting shorter alternatives.

where to stay

In Tanunda and Eden Valley there is a caravan park you can use if you are staying for a while. There is also a small Heysen trail hut (Rossiters Hut) in the Enchanted Forest West of Emerald City that can sleep up to 6 on wooden bunks, with walk in access only.

history

Founded by Petey Pete and Hung Nguyen in Winter 2013. Developed by Petey Pete, Hung Nguyen, Jordan Grant and Steve Kelly.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.585984, 139.000033

description

Northern most boulder field of The Enchanted Forest and arguably the most picturesque location in the whole forest. The main cluster is located on the side of a hill overlooking a valley with rolling hills in the distance.

approach

Park at the East carpark and head north up the Granite track until you reach PV10, head left via a track for 200m and you will find the boulder cluster to your right (North of Track). Approx 2.5km from Carpark.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.590941, 138.998670

description

Located roughly 100m below 'Emerald City' is a small amount of good granite boulders hidden in a sea of Pine Trees.

approach

From PV8 walk down this until the track splits off to the right into PV6. Follow this and after roughly 100m head into the pine forest until you see a patch of native vegetation with the boulders.

history

Re-discovered by Alysha and co.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.593507, 139.002607

description

The Boulder field North of Wonderland featuring some unique boulders and great views.

approach

Park at the East carpark as for Eden and Wonderland and head north up the track until you reach PV13, head through the pines and once through turn right up the hill and follow the bike track. You will be passing the Northern Field of Wonderland on your left and the pines to your right. Keep following this track and eventually you will come across Maleficent and the Budgie Boulder, marking you have reached Emerald City. You can keep heading North from here until you meet a fire track (PV7) turn left (West) and head down the track for 250m where you will see a big hill to your right. This is Emerald hill where the remainder of Emerald City Boulders are located.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.598648, 139.004439

summary

Good free standing boulders of quality rock. Some steep lines on the embankment under trees.

approach

Park at the east car park on Good Child Road where the gate into Forestry is locked. (Don't block the gate) Cross the locked gate where the Granite Creek sign is. Head north up the track on foot along the fence for about 10 minutes. Head West at the sign post PV13 through forestry and down the gully between the two hills, about 5 more minutes. (I added a few new stone cairns to mark track) Boulders are in the bush on your south. Tweedledee & Tweedledum are bit further along in the clearing on the west side of the knoll.

where to stay

Tanunda is most convenient.

ethic

Leave no trace...

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.603251, 139.004082

description

Park at the East carpark and head north up the track on foot about 10 minutes. Park off to the side of the road at the gate, don't block the road or gate.

approach

Head up the track from the east gate shortly after you can either follow the first dirt track left which will take you south west then back north to the area or cut through the trees directly west off the main track.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.607422, 139.005196

description

A small collection of boulders between the Roost and Eden.

approach

Park at the East carpark as for Eden and Wonderland and head south down the track to PV17 (10-15mins). Then head West along that track, where you will see Eden to your left and if you keep following that track, you will get to an intersection of PV17 and PV18. Taking a left onto PV18 will take you to the font boulder and continuing on PV17 will take you to the other roost boulders.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.611707, 139.007045

description

The largest boulder field in The Enchanted Forest, stretching over 18 hectares. Eden is split into 3 clusters of boulders labelled North, Central and South, with the majority found in Central. The area with the most new route potential, with many boulders still unestablished.

access issues

Due to the scrubby nature of this area, it is recommended to be avoided during summer/ hot days as snakes will be present around the area.

approach

Heading South from the East gate (labelled Enchanted Forest Bouldering Area Access on Google Maps) for about 10 mins along the large fire track (Granite Track) you will reach the Northern part of Eden at the junction of Granite Track and PV17. Boulders can be located by using bike trails or using georeferenced locations on theCrag.

This area can also be approached from the South (Especially good in winter when creeks a flowing. Park off the road on Browns road meets the Granite Track (Pine trees begin). Head north along granite track until you reach PV19. This is Eden South, you will know you are in the right spot if you can see the picnic boulder near the creek in front of you.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.616058, 139.003538

description

The southern most area of the Enchanted Forest.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.618430, 139.003648

description

Named after the very old tree in the area which resembles the whomping willow in Harry Potter. A small but good collection of boulders close to the road.

approach

Easiest access for this area is to keep following Heggies Range Rd until it turns into Brownes Rd. Park as for the Khastersuhl Track of The Heysen Trail and walk in from there. Area can be seen from the road just before the parking area. All boulders located less than 100m from the road.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.575861, 139.010592

summary

No climbing within Khaserstuhl. Doing so will risk access to other areas.

access issues

This area is within the Khaserstuhl Conservation Park. The park does not want rock climbers wandering through the area climbing boulders. There is documented Aboriginal art throughout the area that they want protected along with the native animals and fauna. Best to stay out and climb within Enchanted Forest.

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -34.680920, 138.833950

description

Para Wirra Conservation Park is a conservation park in the foothills of the Mount Lofty Ranges in South Australia.

access issues

This area has not been gazetted for rock climbing in accordance with the National Parks and Wildlife Act (1972) and the Wilderness Protection Act (1992). Thus, climbing here is illegal and penalties may apply.

approach

Para Wirra Conservation Park is accessible by car via Scenic Drive.

where to stay

There are no campgrounds within Para Wirra Conservation Park.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -34.669767, 138.819525

description

Information; Rockclimbing Around Adelaide, P. Badenoch, L. Adams 2011. Due to the possibility of nesting peregrines, the CCSA recommends to not climb here between July 1 and November 30 each year.

access issues

This area has not been gazetted for rock climbing in accordance with the National Parks and Wildlife Act (1972) and the Wilderness Protection Act (1992). Thus, climbing here is illegal and penalties may apply. Vehicle entry fee $10 to enter Pirra Wirra Recreation Area.

approach

Collect a park map at the entrance. Park at Knob Lookout, walk down the Quarry Track until you hit the South Para River, then left 200m downstream.

ethic

Minimise use of chalk. Leave no rubbish.

history

Discovery by Nick Neagle.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -34.671098, 138.819414

approach

bouldering can be done on the summit. Approach by parking at the Devils Nose hike entrance and walk in. The boulders are located at the end of the hike.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -34.690332, 138.824727

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -34.679244, 138.830035

description

A collection of boulders around Lizard Rock. Mainly slabs but some overhangs and flat walls.

approach

Located next to the North Oval. Make your way to the car park of the North Oval and park next to the toilets. The start of the Lizard a Rock hiking trail is found directly behind it. Follow it anti-clockwise until you reach post sign 7. The boulders reside directly behind it. There is an old trail that brings you down to the boulders along the river and back up again. A little overgrown but still visible.

history

Established by Petey Pete and Hung Nguyen.

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -34.682671, 138.846600

Summary:

Trad climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: -34.685732, 138.909037

description

A short crag with some brittle rock. More room for routes to be put up but little protection between the major vertical cracklines.

access issues

This area has not been gazetted for rock climbing in accordance with the National Parks and Wildlife Act (1972) and the Wilderness Protection Act (1992). Thus, climbing here is illegal and penalties may apply.

The park is popular with walkers and the main crag is not far from the path.

approach

Hale CP is about 2km south east of Williamstown (on the road to Birdwood). Park in the small car park and consult the handy park map. Take the circuit walk clockwise until you reach the lookout. The main crag is 30m to the right, looking out. Grid reference 308400E 6159600N on the Barossa map.

where to stay

Williamstown

ethic

Take out what you bring in.

history

Discovered by George Adams in 1979, if not before.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -34.715722, 138.941062

description

Intro:

Mount Crawford Forest is situated in the Northern Mount Lofty Ranges, 1 hours drive from Adelaide, about 7 kilometres from Williamstown.

access issues

Total Fire Bans & Forest Closures

forest reserves are closed to the public on declared Total Fire Ban days and in areas where forest operations such as harvesting are being undertaken. Visitors should keep clear of logging operations and pay attention to all signage. It is recommended that visitors contact the Forest Ranger before visiting to obtain information.

Camping Notes

Camping is prohibited from 1 December to 31 March. The main access gate to the campgrounds will be closed at 4pm every day during this period.

Campfires & BBQs

Wood fires are prohibited within the forest from 1 November until 30 April each year. Gas fires are permitted during November and April, but not from 1 December until 31 March.

Wood for campfires may be collected from the forest floor only. It is an offence to cut down or damage standing trees or plants. Campfires are restricted to fires places located in campgrounds, picnic areas and at huts. Please conserve wood supplies by keeping fires small.

approach

General Location:

8km south-east of Williamstown. From waypoint, 350m south-east of Forest information Centre on Warren Road, turn south-west onto Tower Road. Follow signage to Rocky Paddock camp ground. Once in the main area parking zone stretch all along Tower Road making an approach to any specific boulder in the main area less than 2mins. Boulders ordered closest to entrance to furthest.

where to stay

Camping:

Campers must always use designated areas in the forest and must require a permit from the Mount Crawford Information Centre on Warren Rd. Campers must also be very conscious of lighting fires, there are responsibilities to put camp fires out and for fires to be distant from flammable materials as well as keeping fires to a minimal size.

At your campsite, wood for fires can be collected from the ground, any small pieces may be used but it is an offence to take from standing trees and shrubbery, if in need of more firewood you can obtain a permit. It is also an offence to remove any firewood from the native reserve areas of the forest. One of these areas is next to the Rocky Paddock camp area so exercise caution around where you collect wood.

history

Area was established by Seth Fortune and Co.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.719064, 138.940981

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.718491, 138.939535

summary

Situated just below Reynold's Boulder in the Rocky Paddock Camp Ground.

Probably been climbed on by many in the past, so please hit me up if you know the names of the original lines or first ascents

description

Small slab feature with easy climbs.

approach

Just down hill from Reynold's

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.718408, 138.939639

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.718440, 138.940080

description

Multi tiered highish wall below campsite (on the left facing it) across the road from Jake the Mus boulder sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.717762, 138.939435

description

Located in between Reynolds and the Saddle Horse Boulder is a small overhung boulder with a big weakness on the LHS of the boulder.

approach

Short 80-100m walk in from car parking spaces.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.717371, 138.939566

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.717223, 138.940000

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.717059, 138.939378

description

As of August 2022 the large tree blocking the LH end of the boulder has been cut down and removed, opening up new holds and the ability to start traverse lines further left. Lines ordered from Left to Right based on their starting positions.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.716560, 138.939563

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.716397, 138.939365

description

A large face with a large boulder resting on top. Around the side on the same boulder is a little overhung and mantle problem perched high on the boulder.

history

The mantle problem around the corner was Pim's addition during her stay in Australia.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.716253, 138.939448

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.716231, 138.939253

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.716074, 138.939509

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.716039, 138.939455

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.716024, 138.939425

summary

Low overhung boulder with curved scoop cut-out in lip, roughly between Ryker and WMD boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.715874, 138.939907

approach

Follow the road around from the entrance and then walk in from camp site 19. If you hit the big-ass gum tree you've probably gone too far.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.715787, 138.940191

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.715570, 138.939988

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.711657, 138.938323

description

A boulder outcrop with three separate boulders with no overhang.

approach

In a pine forest just outside the camp ground, a 5-10min walk. Coordinates: 34 42 42, 138 56 18.

history

First recorded by crimp.it

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: -34.724261, 138.916353

description

some slab, crack and a 45* over hang

access issues

This area has not been gazetted for rock climbing in accordance with the National Parks and Wildlife Act (1972) and the Wilderness Protection Act (1992). Thus, climbing here is illegal and penalties may apply. A bush bash.

approach

Use the new track until you come to the foot bridge then walk around the big tree in front of you and you will find the old Heysen trail follow this until you come across a river (only runs after heavy rain) and walk in a straight line to the cliff. (at the river crossing there maybe some pink marking tape for a path though the bush )

where to stay

Willimstown

ethic

only leave your foot prints. take all rubbish out with you.

history

Found by George Adams some time in 1987. One old Colin Reece now finished

Summary:

All Trad climbing

description

The rock band on the north side of Kangaroo Creek is scrappy. Near its right end is a clean mottled slab interrupted by a step at three-quarter height. The top-out is delicate; a pre-placed rope as an anchor is best. True 'adventure' climbing.

approach

1-1.5h from the entrance of Montacute CP at the end of Valley Rd.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -34.882363, 138.792091

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -34.913499, 138.789504

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Mt Crawford Area Guide

Table of contents

1. Mt Crawford Area 620 routes in Region

1.1. North Para River 1 route in Cliff

1.1.1. East wall 1 route in Unknown

1.1.2. West wall 0 routes in Unknown

1.2. The Enchanted Forest 404 routes in Crag

1.2.1. The Outpost 22 routes in Field

1.2.2. Hidden Rubbies 1 route in Field

1.2.3. Emerald City 30 routes in Field

1.2.4. Wonderland 157 routes in Field

1.2.5. Froggies 38 routes in Field

1.2.6. The Roost 10 routes in Field

1.2.7. Eden 105 routes in Area

1.2.8. Trotters Bottom 15 routes in Field

1.2.9. Whomping Willow 23 routes in Field

1.2.10. Last Outpost 3 routes in Area

Access: No Climbing Permitted in the Conservation Park East of the Forestry Reserve

1.3. Para Wirra 96 routes in Crag

1.3.1. The Devil's Nose 8 routes in Crag

1.3.2. Devils Nose Boulders 30 routes in Boulder

1.3.3. The Lake 3 routes in Boulder

1.3.4. Lizard Rock 17 routes in Boulder

1.3.5. South Parra River 38 routes in Region

1.4. Hale Conservation Park 5 routes in Crag

1.5. Rocky Paddock Camp Ground 93 routes in Crag

1.5.1. Jake The Muss Boulder 14 routes in Boulder

1.5.2. Slab School 3 routes in Area

1.5.3. Reynolds Boulder 8 routes in Boulder

1.5.4. Dyno Wall 5 routes in Unknown

1.5.5. Pink Flamingo Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

1.5.6. Saddle Horse Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

1.5.7. Chads Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

1.5.8. Sanskrit Boulder 19 routes in Boulder

1.5.9. Sandy Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

1.5.10. Ryker Boulder 6 routes in Boulder

1.5.11. Orbital Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

1.5.12. WMD Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

1.5.13. Hunch Boulder 1 route in Boulder

1.5.14. Fritzy Boulder 1 route in Boulder

1.5.15. Anti Boulder 3 routes in Area

1.5.16. Miles Away Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

1.5.17. Dinosaur Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

1.5.18. Slight Attack Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

1.5.19. Chungus 3 routes in Boulder

1.6. Warren Conservation Park 7 routes in Crag

1.7. Kangaroo Creek 2 routes in Cliff

1.8. Pine Falls Crag 5 routes in Crag

1.9. Blackberry Falls 5 routes in Crag

1.10. Keynes Gap 2 routes in Unknown