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JFMAMJJASONDseasonalitySport and Trad
Long/Lat: 150.427139, -34.462281
Located directly below Mount Jellore lookout. Main wall hosts all of the fully bolted routes at Mount Gibraltar, and the highest concentration of classics at the crag. The rap below Jellore lookout deposits you here.
Thin crack on left wall of main corner.
FA: M.Law, S.Butler, 1987
the Italian Route
Slab 10m left of Slow Twitch corner. 4 BRs.
Set by @mikl
FA: @patu01, 2012
The Anty Climb
Slab 6m left of Slow Twich corner. Avoid corner, staying left on slab. 6 bolts.
FA: Vanessa Peterson, 2012
Start below obvious corner. Up slab to corner, then up corner to finish. Lower-Offs. 7 bolts.
FA: M. Law, 1988
Slow Twitch Extension
Start as for Slow Twitch, then continue up corner to top.
FA: M. Law, 1988
Start up Slow Twitch, after clipping the last bolt (before the final desperate mantle) traverse up and rightwards towards the NEW bolt, keeping fairly high (you shouldn't be touching those Orchids) to join Sluj Gulpa P3 after it's traverse (where the climb begins to head up the flake/corner systems. Follow this to the top.
A 60m rope will NOT lower back to the ground from the anchors. HOWEVER, if you are working this route, you CAN lower to the ground from the LAST BOLT with a 60m rope.
FA: Paul Thomson, 26th May
Mikl's Face Project - CLOSED PROJECT
CLOSED PROJECT - MIKL. The line of bolts straight up the face between the Slow Twitch Corner and the obvious line of Sluj Gulpa.
Set by Mike Law
Mikl's Chimney Project - OPEN PROJECT
Set by Mike Law
6m right of Slow Twitch corner. P1 - Up corner to diagonal crack. Right along crack to belay. 4 bolts. P2 - Right to BR, then up and left past 4 more bolts. P3 - Up to flake, then continue up to top. 6 bolts.
FA: Mike Law, Geg Child, Greg Moore, Giles Bradbury, 1988
Start approx 30m right of Slow Twitch, around corner. Short, curving corner.
FA: A. Prehn, 1979
(Please remove the red tag if you climb this) Climbs up and left through the corner above the 1st belay on Big Bird.
Pitch 1: Climb the first pitch of Big Bird.
Pitch 2: Climbs from the 1st belay on Big Bird straight up through corner system past two bolts. Belay on cams below the roof.
Pitch 3: Out right escaping the roof on the obvious finger crack flake. Pull the lip and head right to belay on the slab as for Big Bird.
Pitch 4: Climbs the 'beak' direct. head down onto the exposed fridge slab and the up onto the beak. Belay as for Big Bird. Two fixed hangers, then rings as for big bird.
Set by @bultitude,@reneprovis,@sbm
FA: @bultitude,@reneprovis,@sbm, 2015
Modern Masculinity Top Pitch
Can be climbed as an alternate pitch to the final pitch of Big Bird. It's a little harder and a lot scarier. Seconds beware of the potential for a big swing. Maybe clean the second draw after mantling (you'll see). 2 fixed hangers on the left arete of the beak.
FA: James Bultitude, 2014
Start at bolted slab down from Offal Dredger, below obvious steep layback corner. P1 - Up easy slab to groove and crack, then up and right to belay beneath steep layback corner. P2 - Up steep layback corner, which lessons to slab and crack. Step right past bolt, then hard, thin move through bulge to slab and belay. P3 - Left to "beak" feature. Up onto beak (with some difficulty), then up easily to single bolt-belay. Scramble up and left to lookout.
FA: Gareth Downey, Mikl Law, 2012
Start 15m right of Offal Dredger, 6m right of Big Bird. Climb rib right of obvious corner. P1 - Up to corner and belay at ledge (gear). P2 - Right and around arete, up slab. At 4th bolt head up right to ridge, and back left to tree. P3 - Up cracks to easy ground.
FA: Mike Law, G.Eggins, 1986
|Modern Masculinity Top Pitch||215m,|
|the Italian Route||20m|
|The Anty Climb||20m|
|25||Slow Twitch Extension||40m|
|?||Mikl's Chimney Project - OPEN PROJECT||35m|
|Mikl's Face Project - CLOSED PROJECT||35m|