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Table of contents

1. Main Wall 14 routes in Unknown

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.427139, -34.462281

Description:

Located directly below Mount Jellore lookout. Main wall hosts all of the fully bolted routes at Mount Gibraltar, and the highest concentration of classics at the crag. The rap below Jellore lookout deposits you here.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Trubl

Thin crack on left wall of main corner.

FA: M.Law, S.Butler, 1987

26 Trad 50m 2
2 the Italian Route

Slab 10m left of Slow Twitch corner. 4 BRs.

Set by @mikl

FA: @patu01, 2012

20 Sport 20m
3 ** The Anty Climb

Slab 6m left of Slow Twich corner. Avoid corner, staying left on slab. 6 bolts.

FA: Vanessa Peterson, 2012

22 Sport 20m
4 ** Slow Twitch

Start below obvious corner. Up slab to corner, then up corner to finish. Lower-Offs. 7 bolts.

FA: M. Law, 1988

20 Sport 30m
5 *** Slow Twitch Extension

Start as for Slow Twitch, then continue up corner to top.

FA: M. Law, 1988

25 Sport 40m
6 *** Slow Gulpa

Links Slow Twitch into the top pitch of Sluj Gulpa past 1 additional bolt and a techy boulder-problem to create a 38m mega pitch from the ground. The best pitch at Mount Gibraltar?

Start up Slow Twitch, after clipping the last bolt (before the final desperate mantle) traverse up and rightwards towards the NEW bolt, keeping fairly high (you shouldn't be touching those Orchids) to join Sluj Gulpa P3 after it's traverse (where the climb begins to head up the flake/corner systems. Follow this to the top.

A 60m rope will NOT lower back to the ground from the anchors. HOWEVER, if you are working this route, you CAN lower to the ground from the LAST BOLT with a 60m rope.

FA: Paul Thomson, 26th May

24 Sport 38m
7 ** Mikl's Face Project - CLOSED PROJECT

CLOSED PROJECT - MIKL. The line of bolts straight up the face between the Slow Twitch Corner and the obvious line of Sluj Gulpa.

Set by Mike Law

Sport Project 35m
8 Mikl's Chimney Project - OPEN PROJECT

CLOSED PROJECT - MIKL. The malevolent Chimney between the Slow Twitch corner, and the obvious line of Sluj Gulpa.

Set by Mike Law

Sport Project 35m
9 *** Sluj Gulpa

6m right of Slow Twitch corner. P1 - Up corner to diagonal crack. Right along crack to belay. 4 bolts. P2 - Right to BR, then up and left past 4 more bolts. P3 - Up to flake, then continue up to top. 6 bolts.

FA: Mike Law, Geg Child, Greg Moore, Giles Bradbury, 1988

23 Sport 60m 3
10 * Offal Dredger

Start approx 30m right of Slow Twitch, around corner. Short, curving corner.

FA: A. Prehn, 1979

22 Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 ** Modern Masculinity

(Please remove the red tag if you climb this) Climbs up and left through the corner above the 1st belay on Big Bird.

Pitch 1: Climb the first pitch of Big Bird.

Pitch 2: Climbs from the 1st belay on Big Bird straight up through corner system past two bolts. Belay on cams below the roof.

Pitch 3: Out right escaping the roof on the obvious finger crack flake. Pull the lip and head right to belay on the slab as for Big Bird.

Pitch 4: Climbs the 'beak' direct. head down onto the exposed fridge slab and the up onto the beak. Belay as for Big Bird. Two fixed hangers, then rings as for big bird.

Set by @bultitude,@reneprovis,@sbm

FA: @bultitude,@reneprovis,@sbm, 2015

21 Trad 80m 4
12 Modern Masculinity Top Pitch

Can be climbed as an alternate pitch to the final pitch of Big Bird. It's a little harder and a lot scarier. Seconds beware of the potential for a big swing. Maybe clean the second draw after mantling (you'll see). 2 fixed hangers on the left arete of the beak.

FA: James Bultitude, 2014

20 Sport 15m, 2
13 ** Big Bird

Start at bolted slab down from Offal Dredger, below obvious steep layback corner. P1 - Up easy slab to groove and crack, then up and right to belay beneath steep layback corner. P2 - Up steep layback corner, which lessons to slab and crack. Step right past bolt, then hard, thin move through bulge to slab and belay. P3 - Left to "beak" feature. Up onto beak (with some difficulty), then up easily to single bolt-belay. Scramble up and left to lookout.

FA: Gareth Downey, Mikl Law, 2012

20 Sport 75m
14 ** Comyns

Start 15m right of Offal Dredger, 6m right of Big Bird. Climb rib right of obvious corner. P1 - Up to corner and belay at ledge (gear). P2 - Right and around arete, up slab. At 4th bolt head up right to ridge, and back left to tree. P3 - Up cracks to easy ground.

FA: Mike Law, G.Eggins, 1986

20 Trad 50m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
20 ** Big Bird Sport 75m
** Comyns Trad 50m
Modern Masculinity Top Pitch Sport 15m, 2
** Slow Twitch Sport 30m
the Italian Route Sport 20m
21 ** Modern Masculinity Trad 80m 4
22 * Offal Dredger Trad 12m
** The Anty Climb Sport 20m
23 *** Sluj Gulpa Sport 60m 3
24 *** Slow Gulpa Sport 38m
25 *** Slow Twitch Extension Sport 40m
26 ** Trubl Trad 50m 2
? Mikl's Chimney Project - OPEN PROJECT Sport Project 35m
** Mikl's Face Project - CLOSED PROJECT Sport Project 35m