Mt Gibraltar Guide

The only route in the Bat Cave. Up to BR then to jug, move right then up past 2 BRs. DBB.

A short but sweet little splitter at the left side of the 14 wall, then follow the ramp and flake to the top. Tree & gear belay.

Obvious from the descent gully, this was surely not missed by earlier climbers, but was never described.

Start at tree on far left of wall. Up past BR. Requires bolt plates for carrots

Original description started at tree and traversed right, but it's better to start on the ground and mantel onto the rail.

Up past BR, then juggy wall Requires bolt plates for carrots (2)

Start just right of Two. Up past 5 BRs to chain.

Rebolted August 2014 on expansions.

Right again. Up past 2 BRs to chain.

About 2m right of the double cracks. Up wall past 2 BRs to small overlap, past BR and small tree. DBB.

1m right of Five, start up large flake past bolt and up to break, clip another bolt above roof then up easy slab to shared DBB

Up as for Four to overlap, traverse right along flake to join Six. 3BRs.

Start as for Four. Traverse right along low flake to BR, then up and past another BR to tree.

Line of bolts left of Chadwick's D.S. Bouldery start to minor lip then up, 4 RBs. Double bolt belay.

Rebolted 2018

Where large boulder caps the cliffline. Up closed corner, through roof, up slab. 3RBs. Double bolt belay.

Rebolted 2018

Start 2m right of Chadwick's DS. Up layback, over roof, up slab. 3RBs. Double bolt belay.

Rebolted 2018

Hard start. Layback up arete, followed by plenty of crack. Use the tree to mantle over the top to doubles.

Up crack and then step left on to blocks. Finish at tree.

Thin crack on left wall of main corner.

Slab 10m left of Slow Twitch corner. 4 BRs.

Slab 6m left of Slow Twich corner. Avoid corner at start (ants!), stay left on slab. 6 bolts.

Start below obvious corner. Up slab to corner, then up corner to finish. Lower-Offs. 7 bolts.

Start as for Slow Twitch, then continue up corner to top. The line of the cliff. tenuous and weird

Links Slow Twitch into the top pitch of Sluj Gulpa past 1 additional bolt and a techy boulder-problem to create a 38m mega pitch from the ground. Start up Slow Twitch, after clipping the last bolt (before the final desperate mantle) traverse up and rightwards towards the NEW bolt, keeping fairly high (you shouldn't be touching those Orchids) to join Sluj Gulpa P3 after it's traverse (where the climb begins to head up the flake/corner systems. Follow this to the top.

A 60m rope will NOT lower back to the ground from the anchors. HOWEVER, if you are working this route, you CAN lower to the ground from the LAST BOLT with a 60m rope.

CLOSED PROJECT - MIKL. The line of bolts straight up the face between the Slow Twitch Corner and the obvious line of Sluj Gulpa.

The malevolent Chimney between the Slow Twitch corner, and the obvious line of Sluj Gulpa. Mantel next to trees and step right back onto face and continue to the the ledge (runout to the anchor) bolt and FH

6m right of Slow Twitch corner.

1. Up corner to diagonal crack. Right along crack to belay. 4 bolts.

2. Right to BR, then up and left past 4 more bolts.

3. Up to flake, then continue up to top. 6 bolts.

Start about 12m downhill from the massive corner (Slow Twitch) in a chimney/crack system. Up system till you can step left. Continue out sickle shaped crack to ledge and tree belay. Abseil off (dodgy tree) or continue to top via one of the many other routes.

Start left of Big Bird at detached block.

1. 30m (19) Up crack (optional large cam or sling) to ledge, move left to corner clip fixed hanger. Tough move off ledge to slab following fixed hangers to steep overlap. Tricky moves up through corner (longer sling on bolt). Bolt on top of lip and easily up to chains.

2. 20m (19) Up line of fixed hangers. Belay directly above (2 fixed hangers on wall), or at rap station.

Up corner past 2 carrots to pod in corner, and up to rap station.

Start as for Access Route.

1. Up to halfway ledge, right to belay beneath small roof.

2. Up and around lip to easy moves above to tree belay.

3. Either up dirty corner or climb tree to slab.

Climbs up and left through the corner above the 1st belay on Big Bird.

1. 15m (17) Climb the first pitch of Big Bird.

2. ?m (21) Climbs from the 1st belay on Big Bird straight up through corner system past two bolts. Belay on cams below the roof.

3. ?m (18) Out right escaping the roof on the obvious finger crack flake. Pull the lip and head right to belay on the slab as for Big Bird.

4. 15m (19) Climbs the 'beak' direct. head down onto the exposed fridge slab and then up onto the beak. Belay as for Big Bird. Two fixed hangers, then rings as for Big Bird.

Can be climbed as an alternate pitch to the final pitch of Big Bird. It's a little harder and a lot scarier. Seconds beware of the potential for a big swing. Maybe clean the second draw after mantling (you'll see). 2 fixed hangers on the left arete of the beak.

Start approx 30m right of Slow Twitch, around corner. Short, curving corner.

Start at short crack with U-bolts about 80M R of the big corner, below obvious steep layback corner.

1. 15m (17) Up easy slab to groove and crack, then up and right to belay beneath steep layback corner.

2. 30m (20) Up steep layback corner, which fades out to slab and crack. Step right past bolt, then hard, thin move through bulge to slab and belay.

3. 20m (19) Left to "beak" feature. Up onto beak (with some difficulty), then up easy slab. Don't use the two fixed hangers on the left for the belay (that would leave you with an exposed top out), instead climb a few more meters to a single bolt-belay. (you can bridge off the tree to clip 2nd bolt)

Scramble up and left to lookout.

Start 15m right of Offal Dredger, 6m right of Big Bird. Climb rib right of obvious corner.

1. Up to corner and belay at ledge (gear).

2. Right and around arete, up slab. At 4th bolt head up right to ridge, and back left to tree.

3. Up cracks to easy ground.

Start at the very low point of the crag.

1. (16) 8 bolts - Start easily up the slab to arete and crack. Shared double bolt belay with Here Be Dragons.

2. (17) 8 bolts - Shares firsts 4 bolts of Here Be Dragons. Up short wall behind anchors. Traverse right 3 meters to base of giant gully. Follow the left line of bolts around the edge of the slab. Double bolt belay on ledge to left of the next big tree.

3. (17) 8 bolts - Start up water runnel then keep left to run strait up the arete. Double bolt belay at ledge.

4. (15) 6 bolts - Start to the right of belay then tend left and up through blocks. Up two more slabs to final double bolt belay.

Start at the very low point of the crag. Meanders up through the old descent gully on really cool features.

1. (15) - Grit stone-esk slab. Follow 5 bolts to large ledge and tree. Double bolt belay.

2. (17) - Up short wall behind anchors(Tree often used as a footer.) Traverse right 3 metres to base of giant gully. 7 bolts up blunt arete, through less than perfect rock to another large ledge and tree. Double bolt belay.

3. (17) - 8 bolts up face to large ledge. Belay from double ring bolts on the right.

4. (18)- Trend left over easy broken ground to the bottom of the giant blocks. Pull up through blocks, taking care on the final boulder problem. Addition protection from an old bolting Friend in the crack if you are feeling a little exposed. (Hard move but sympathetically bolted.) Pointless but so much fun.

Offwidth corner crack about 50m right of Access Route, 20m R of big choss gully, and 50m left of base of Descent Ramp.

1. 20m Up crack past bush to poor belay.

2. 30m Up slaby seam with poor protection to poor belay under boulder. Scary solo off, or stay roped up!

Nice corner 10m R of Suicidal Dreams. Belay at rings on right (belay 2 of The very Easy Route). Done before, thought to be RRD for many years.

3 nice pitches. Start at RRD initials, about 10m L of Gripping Yarn. P1 30m 17 Start up first few moves of RRP and left up nose to 2nd belay Very Easy Route (rings). P2 30m 17 Up friction slab above belay (stay out of the crack) then up left to Gripping Yarn second belay, left end of overlap. P3 10m 17 Up arete to hidden pockets on slab

About 20m right of Suicidal Dreams, groove 8m left of gripping Yarn. Marked with faint yellow paint.

1. 30m Up crack past blackberries to ring belay as for The Very Easy Route

2. 30m Step left and up cracks then left to belay as for Gripping Yarn P2.

Nice slabbing with a few easy run outs. Easiest to walk down the descent ramp, the route starts up a thin crack some 35m L of the Descent Ramp. Or else 30m R of the big choss gully on the R side of the Main Wall is a fine thin crack up the face of short flake.

1. 15m (16) Up past 3 bolts then on to DBB. If this pitch is wet do P1 of 'The Very Easy Route' and traverse in.

2. 50m (16) Straight up past 8 bolts and then traverse left below overlap to DBB.

3. 30m (14) Head left up easy slab (BR) and mantel (BR) past cracks and up over 2 bulges, walk back to tree.

(P1 claimed as Mark Farrels Crack in 1997, but regularly climbed in the 70s)

1. 50m (16) From the Maur i Rompa belay bolt at the left end of the ledge, follow the seam leftwards, 2m past Gripping Yarn and up past a carrot. Then diag L to jug and around arete to good crack (RRP). Follow this to Break then follow easy seam with no gear for 10m and leftwards to GY Belay#2.

2. 30m (14) finish up GY

It's possible to wander all over the wall with many variations. This captures the best easy climbing, the pitches are short so you can watch seconds. You can easily combine P1+2, and P4+5 if you use a few slings. All rings. Follow the rings. There is one ring to rule them all.

1. 10m Follow layback crack about 15m R of gripping Yarn to ledge.

2. 25m Walk left, crossing Gripping Yarn (you can step up and clip a fixed hanger here, use a sling to cut drag), and then up short wall and easy slab, move L to belay on block. (ignore the bolts with hangers going straight up the blank slab above, Nintendo 64)

3. 30m step left across corner then left 5m further and up slab and bulge, then leftwards to belay in hole.

4. 20m diagonally left to overlap. Left and up short corner and wall to belay.

5. 25m Up right to bolt and slab and crack as for Gripping Yarn.

Nice climbing up an old fashion slab with good but sparse gear, Climb up chimney about 6m R of Gripping Yarn (sling tree), step R and onto slab and easily straight up black streak to diagonal at 15m, good wires. Easy runout up black streak to flake, step left (good baby cams now that the paper flakes have been removed) finishing up a flared seam. There are 3 good small wire placements , take a nut tool as the crack catches bit of dirt (and reading glasses if you're old) Finishes at the top of the green rope in the Access Ramp. Technically about 16, and would have been graded 17 if it was in Booroomba

Original route in the area, superseded by The Mittagong Two Step. After the 3rd BR go up the easy corner

Start up The Very Easy Route to the first belay or walk in along ledge. Up rightwards past 3 bolts to the smooth scoop (18) then left to the corner (optional medium cam), step left and up arete past 2 bolts. Up delicately to the belay (2 bolts, descent rope tied to one)).The first half of the pitch was originally done as Maur i Rompa

Start on the ledge directly below the descent rope. Follow the cool little ripple up the ledge to double belay anchors. Great beginners slab route, easy to protect, easy to bail. Follow the handline to the belay bolt.

Three good easy pitches going leftwards up the spine of the buttress

1. 20m (11) 5 x FH to DFH belay. Beginner fun on easy slab.

2. 20m (13) 5 x FH to DFH belay. More beginner fun on easy slab.

3. 20 (10) 5 x FH. Head up diagonally left, over step, and left up seam DFH belay, walk off carefully left (or stay belayed)

Left line on the slab. Use both sides of the big flake to get onto the face. Balancy moves on good holds to get to the first FH.

Right line on the slab. Pass the first easy bolt and up to runnel. Up runnel and trend left. Up easy slab, around bush, easy mantel to DFH.

1. 15m (17) 3 x FH to vertical hand/feet crack. Cams #1-3 then to DFH belay. The money pitch. Fun feature climbing up to the crack where your cams come into play. What's your crack plan? Lay back or jam?

Nice easy (introductory) slab climbing, 2 meters left of 'Far from the Madding Crowd'. up the short black slab to DBB and lower off.

Either abseil down from above or descend the fixed rope in the descent gulley or from bottom by following cliff around until a fixed rope is found to access start alcove. Top wall tends to be wet after rain and will seep.

1. 12m (17) Start below water runnels under a small crack. Five bolts to double ring belay.

2. 23m (18) Step up slab to easy ground. Trend left and pull over two vertical walls to double ring belay. A 70m rope will get you to the green rope descent, not to the ground.

Pitch 1 is the nicest moderate pitch on the mountain.

Start on the same ledge as 'Far from the Madding Crowd' and 'Road Less Travelled'. Follows the cool looking water runnel up to the mini arête and slab above.

1. 20m (17) Step into the water runnel, past 4 bolts, using the arête where possible. Step over the vegetated ledge and trend slightly right until appearing on the large ledge. Belay at the double rings shared with 'Road Less Travelled'.

2. 25m (14) Step right and romp with ease up the slab and boulder above to shared double lower offs.

Starts at same ledge as 'Far from the Madding Crowd' and 'The Devils Tears', about 5m further right.

1. (19) Steep with a hard pull over steep wall, follow the black slab past 5 bolts. Continue past the double ring bolts on the first ledge (possible belay if you want short pitches) and continue up the slab until reaching the large party ledge. Double belay bolts shared with 'The Devils Tears'.

2. (19) Step left up blank bookend corner at a difficult 21 for the short, on great rock past one ring bolt to double anchors.

First route on the mini slab. Pull past horizontal break and then up to the reinforced hold. Micro holds all the way to the final over lap and jugs.

Middle of the slab. Thin moves well protected.

Right hand side of the slab. Start on the conveniently positioned old tree trunk. Pull up slab into curving crack, lay back with style and surmount the head wall with care.

2 metres further right. Start on the flake of rock, up the clean slab and over the overlap. Romp to top.

Start, walk about 40m R of The Road less travelled etc at a body high flake you can just squeeze thru (or walk around).

1. (16) Start on top of the flake at the bottom of the buttress, high first bolt. Pull with interest onto the wall, 6 bolts to large ledge, lower off here if you're doing the first pitch only, or continue to double rings set back on ledge.

2. 10m (17) Cross over Orchid Alley to right line of bolts to next large ledge.

3. 14m (17) Right of top pitch of Orchid Alley, 4 BRs contributed by James Bulititude and then a further 2 bolts through the final head wall. Belay from double rings.

Great climbing,more smearing and balance than crimping, up a clean water streak. Start, walk about 40m R of The Road less travelled etc to a body high flake you can just squeeze thru (or walk around) (Mad Dogs and Englishmen). Clean black streak 6m right of squeeze. Now easier as it has cleaned up.

1. 35m (19) Up slab, right at start then go direct past 3rd bolt (out left is mossy). Scramble up to wall 10m above top of slab to belay on 2BB on the left. I lowered down to top of slab to watch second on hard start.

2. 20m (17) Take left line of bolts, up line and left to 2BB near gully (there is another line of bolts + trad gear on the right).

3. 35m (14) Up arete and slab to roof, stand on block and step left and pull through bulge and up easy slab to tree.

Feet only. Straight up, top out.

Pick one course of bricks each, for you hands and feet and stick to it, doing laps counter clockwise. Pockets mark the edges. No Top.

Stand start, hands can only use the three slits, top out.

Both hands on jug, start to finish dyno, top out.

Both hands on start the brick with the pocket, start to finish dyno, top out.

On the left of 'Roadside Acracktion' Start with one hand on each side pull and a heel hook next to your left hand, traverse up the crimp crack to top out

Sit start with both hands in the crack, up the crack to top out. Base rock is out of bounds

Sit start, working your way to the right then finally up and back to top out.

Setter unknown, best reading of the chalk.

Grade unconfirmed V5-V7?

I think the best reading of the chalk is sit starting on the far right and traversing all the way along to the left.

Unconfirmed grade

Sit start with both hands in the crack reach up with the let then work your way up and back along the flake.