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Description

All day shade makes this a great summer crag (when its not wet!). Bolts are high and well camouflaged.

Don't remove vegetation from the base of climbs like other silly twits have been!

© (gremlin)

Approach

From carpark, follow signs to waterfall gorge, drop into the obvious gorge at cairn on right and trek up the cool and narrow gully/gorge. Rock-hopping and dead tree clambering for 800? meters (it feels further). In the last 10 mins you'll have to crawl up some steep rocky slopes. Head Trauma is easily spotted as a white streak-crack on a black wall.

© (gremlin)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Follow the obvious seam in the middle of the streak with OK pro.

It is a bit run out past the 10 meter mark.

Climb on to mallions.

A little caution should be applied to this one.

Start: This climb runs up a crack in a dark streak of rock.

It is directly off the track 150-200m downstream from the actual Grey Wall on the right.

FA: Ross Ferguson & Daniel Schmidt, 2003

Up steps to slab and FH.

Step right and up to FH then continue up passing another 3 FH.

A couple of tricky moves for the exit and balance to mallions.

Start: The first climb on the left at the Grey Wall

FA: Matt Pendse, Craig Pohlman & Robert Audsley, 2003

Up wall on good edges to jug and FH.

Tend up and right over ramped ledge to FH.

Continue up into corner passing 2 more FH. and jug over lip.

Mantle and on to mallions.

FA: Terje Suinjen & Craig Pohlman, 2003

A more logical variant to the previous line.

Up on sloppers to black FH.

Continue up to Pokey's second FH and on.

FA: Terje Suinjen & Craig Pohlman, 2003

Up onto ramp using ordinary holds to FH.

Fight gravity to get into the narrow corner and 2nd FH (crux).

Climb above the 2nd FH out of the canopy and enjoy the view.

Bridge and mantle some more past another 2 FH.

Another mantle and up easy slab to mallions.

Pretty stiff for the grade.

FA: Craig Pohlman & Robert Audsley, 2003

Up fine seam left of bulge to FH.

Then up corner above passing another 2 FH.

Exit right under small roof to FH and big jug.

Then run it out a little up to mallions.

FA: Craig Pohlman & Robert Audsley, 2003

Up wall on sloppers to high FH and onward.

Mantle ledge to FH and up headwall tending left past 2 FH.

The large rings are to your right.

FA: Guy Pearse, Anita Sharma & Kevin Dougall, 2003

Bouldery start. Carefully to 2nd FH. Go left? to hidden bolts, corner and mallions?

Start: Starts in shallow corner

FA: Robert Audsley & Craig Pohlman, 2003

Start as for 'Bongo' for the first few clips, traverse right into 'Pick Pocket' to clip, then up greasy corner to mallions.

Thin holds to start, up over pocketed face.

Crank over ledge to 3rd FH and up greasy short bit to mallions.

FA: Craig Pohlman & Robert Audsley, 2003

Up wall on thin pockets and edges to low FH.

Staying out of the low corner climb the face on excellent edges and pockets past 7 FH.

Then on to mallions.

Wandering up and left with great moves on good holds

Past final 3 FH and tend left around into a well hidden corner.

You will find the mallions here.

Can be done as a single pitch.

Start: On the opposite side of the gorge in line with 'Bongo'

FA: Ross Ferguson & Craig Pohlman, 2003

Belay from the ledge and not the ground, it's a long 30m.

Without clipping any FH on Ain't No Sunshine.

Stay in the corner and climb it on good holds passing 2 FH.

Continue up tending left on quite thin edges and pockets.

Past another 5 FH. Continue up and left.

Another two FH and good holds up to mallions.

Start: Left of Ain't No Sunshine

FA: Ross Ferguson & Daniel Schmidt, 2003

FA: Craig Pohlman Robert Audsley

Activity

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