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Description

A fun little wall with several short yet brutal sport routes.

© (gremlin)

Approach

Follow the tourist track toward 'Waterfall' Gorge. As you walk up over a rock slab the trail starts to look like an old road. Look to your right and walk down the gully aiming for the lump of rock. If you reach the turn off for the South East Ridge or end up in 'Waterfall' Gorge you have gone a little too far.

© (gremlin)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Short and silly trad route on the very far left of the crag. Up to chockstone trying to avoid using the tree, find the jugs to get onto the ledge and stroll on up to the trees.

Start: First ugly loose crack as you walk in.

FA: Dan Roe, 2008

Through the brutal overhang on a variety of holds then fight through the difficult bulge to the top

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2003

There are a few more bolted routes here going through the overhang. Details unknown.

Up easy slab past 3 FH to chains.

Start: Left of "Maggies Dummy Spit".

Up face of detached pillar on good holds to FH. A bunch of brutal moves takes you past the final 2 FH. Carefully exit left over easy terrain to find a pair of mallions.

Start: Near the large boulder.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Guy Pearce & Craig Pohlman, 2003

Another brutal little unit up the right hand side of the small roof.

Start: 1m left of Lisa, in behind the tree.

Stunning corner in the center of the crag

Very technical bridging up to the 3rd bolt.

Followed by scary and brutal face climbing.

The impressive line up the arete.

Up the 'blank' wall left of 'Snowball'.

Up the corner over ledges passing 2 FH's. A brutal move or two past a 3rd FH gets you up to the anchor.

FA: Troy Gregory Peter Watkins, 2005

Climb 'Snowball' to the 3rd FH, then swing around the arete. Forget about the bolt in front of you (creates brutal z drag) and just go up over easy terrain to chains.

FA: Dan Roe & Owen Klan, 2008

A brutal little affair. Climb up the arete passing two FH's. A few exciting moves takes you to the 3rd. Head right to the final Fh and easily up to anchor.

FA: Craig Pohlman, Guy Pearce & Ross Ferguson, 2003

Nice moves on jugs up into corner. Scramble up fern grotto to finish up 'Marge' from the 4th hanger.

Start: Start 1m left of Itchy & Scratchy

Brutal ugly thrash onto ledge. Up fern grotto to finish up 'Marge' from the 4th hanger.

Start: Left of 'Marge' Left

Fairly brutal for the grade. Ramble up the ledges on the left side of 'Marge'. From the 4th bolt go left to find the mallions.

Start: Left of 'Marge'

FA: Daniel Schmidt & Ross Ferguson, 2003

Originally graded 19. Work the thin and technical sequence on the right side of the bolts.

Start: Far right of crag

FA: Daniel Schmidt & Ross Ferguson, 2003

Activity

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