A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Mt Hope 64 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.207527, -35.986766

Unique Features And Strengths:

The northern most climbing in Victoria. Too hot in summer. This crag is best in winter when everywhere else in Victoria is too wet.

Description:

Large granite monolith near Pyramid Hill on the Tragowel Plains. The rock is large grained and very coarse and is of variable quality. There are some quality routes, but beauty may be in the eye of the beholder.

Access Issues:

No access issues. This area is in a nature reserve and contains some rare and endangered flora and fauna. It may look pretty scrappy, but please take care and look after this area if you visit.

Approach:

From Melbourne/south, head to Pyramid Hill and then drive north on the Pyramid Hill - Leitchville Rd until you see the Major Mitchell Trail sign to Mt Hope. Turn left and drive 1.5 km on the dirt. Turn left at the first opportunity to get to the Picnic Ground, or drive another 500 m to the next left to reach Suicide Rock car park

Where To Stay:

You can camp at Mt Hope, but it's pretty rough - no water or toilets. In summer the flies will carry you away during the day and the mosquitoes will take over after dark.

Ethic:

Trad as well as bolted sport routes, with a mix of carrots and fixed hangers.

1.1. Picnic Ground 16 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 144.208351, -35.985982

1.1.1. East Side Slab 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 144.210170, -35.984735

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Restitution

The slab up the arete at the right hand end of the face past 5 FH and a #5 Rock

FA: @northshs,John Morris, 2010

16 Sport 35m, 5
2 Rsolution

The slab and short steep wall into the crack up the middle of the face. 3 FH and 0 Quadcam

Set by @northshs

FA: @northshs,Jim Small,Dave Mitchell, 1996

FFA: @northshs,John Morris, 2010

15 Sport 30m, 3

1.1.2. East Side Cliffs 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 144.208951, -35.985839

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Recidivist

The prominent undercling/slab under the main archway beneath Ledge of Sighs. Starts at the right hand end for a rising traverse on smooth rock.

Set by Sam North, 2010

FA: Sam North, John Morris, 2010

20 Trad 30m
2 Judas Iscariot 13 Unknown 20m
3 Ledge Of Sighs 13 Unknown 50m
4 Ledge Of Sighs Direct Start 14 Unknown 40m
5 Rampant Behaviour 15 Unknown 35m
6 Remington 16 Unknown 15m

1.1.3. West Side Boulders 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 144.206309, -35.985767

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 I Don't Mind Amateurs 12 Unknown 10m
2 Tricontinental 12 Unknown 5m
3 Overdraft 11 Unknown 8m
4 Pennies Deposit 21 Unknown 10m
5 Bolted Route 17 Unknown 10m
6 Murray's Valedictory 13 Unknown 10m
7 Arete 10 Unknown 10m
8 Catch Me 14 Unknown 12m

1.2. Dead Sheep Gully 1 route in Sector

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 FB's Doing Bookwork 19 Unknown 12m

1.3. Suicide Boulders 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ticket For Steve 12 Unknown 8m
2 Slow Down 17 Unknown 8m

1.4. Suicide Rock 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 144.201665, -35.988184

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Grasping At Immortality 14 Unknown 30m
2 Rosie's big day out

Midway between Grasping ay Immortanility and Neiman Street. A thin start then straight up through the bolts to mantle and easier slab finish

Set by Sam North, 2009

FA: Sam North,Steve Morris,John Morris,Chris Watson,Jamie Mahoney, 2009

19 Sport 30m, 5
3 * Niemann Street 18 Unknown 30m
4 ** Alms For The Beggarman 21 Unknown 48m
5 ** Hoddle Street 21 Unknown 48m
6 * Hoddle Street Left Hand Variant 21 Unknown 48m
7 ** Hoddle Street Right Hand Variant 22 Unknown 48m
8 ** Gun Control 22 Unknown 50m
9 ** Crimping 21 Unknown 30m
10 ** Touch Me I'm Sick 27 Unknown 45m

1.5. Side Outcrop 24 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.200805, -35.988324

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Suicide Gully 9 Trad 39m
2 One Notion 6 Trad 30m
3 Solicitors Lament 7 Trad 30m
4 Patho 15 Trad 23m
5 Summit Route 3 Trad 50m
6 Child Abuse

FA: @northshs

15 Sport 22m, 3
7 Mon Chimney 10 Trad 21m
8 Latrine

Walk into Mon Chimney and head up the back wall and then out to the chains on top of Winterdreams

FA: @northshs

9 Trad 15m
9 * Winterdreams

The arete with the bolts to the right of the cave. Step up onto the large flake to clip first bolt then up. Chains to belay.

16 Sport 22m, 3
10 Irma Vep 23 Sport 15m, 2
11 GST

The hand to fist crack. Best to tape up.

FA: @northshs

20 Trad 18m
12 * Riding Through The Snow 21 Trad 18m
13 Sunslab 13 Unknown 50m
14 Jingle Bells 16 Trad 18m
15 A Suprising Time Out

The middle of the slab to the left of Sleigh Ride past two bolts

20 Sport 20m, 2
16 * Sleigh Ride

The obvious dog-leg crack in the right hand side of the Side Outcrop

13 Trad 20m
17 Jim's Hangover

Start up Sleigh Ride to where the crack turns left, then head straight up.

17 Top rope 20m
18 * Rambunctious 17 Unknown 22m
19 Persia 79

The slab and arête to the right of Sleigh Ride. A long way to the first bolt, which needs a wire as a bolt plate won't fit.

FFA: @northshs

16 Sport 22m, 3
20 Do It In Deni

The thin seam/crack in the wall across the gully and directly behind Persia 79. Thin and tricky to get good gear.

19 Trad 15m
21 Mincha 15 Trad 10m
22 Macorna 12 Trad 7m
23 Under Scrutiny 12 Unknown 8m
24 Savage Amusement 24 Unknown 10m

1.6. The Dark Side 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 144.200941, -35.989768

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Russian Roulette 16 Unknown 7m
2 Raw Hide 18 Unknown 7m
3 The Moon 16 Unknown 12m
4 Skywalker 18 Unknown 12m
5 Wings Of Steel 16 Unknown 11m
6 Aces High 20 Unknown 10m
7 Chalk And Cheese 14 Unknown 10m
8 Realign The Tim Day 19 Unknown 10m
9 ** Wicked Sensation 20 Unknown 12m
10 Slave To The Grind 15 Unknown 7m
11 R2-D2 10 Unknown 8m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
3 Summit Route Trad 50m 1.5. Side Outcrop
6 One Notion Trad 30m 1.5. Side Outcrop
7 Solicitors Lament Trad 30m 1.5. Side Outcrop
9 Latrine Trad 15m 1.5. Side Outcrop
Suicide Gully Trad 39m 1.5. Side Outcrop
10 Arete Unknown 10m 1.1.3. West Side Boulders
Mon Chimney Trad 21m 1.5. Side Outcrop
R2-D2 Unknown 8m 1.6. The Dark Side
11 Overdraft Unknown 8m 1.1.3. West Side Boulders
12 I Don't Mind Amateurs Unknown 10m 1.1.3. West Side Boulders
Tricontinental Unknown 5m 1.1.3. West Side Boulders
Ticket For Steve Unknown 8m 1.3. Suicide Boulders
Macorna Trad 7m 1.5. Side Outcrop
Under Scrutiny Unknown 8m 1.5. Side Outcrop
13 Judas Iscariot Unknown 20m 1.1.2. East Side Cliffs
Ledge Of Sighs Unknown 50m 1.1.2. East Side Cliffs
Murray's Valedictory Unknown 10m 1.1.3. West Side Boulders
* Sleigh Ride Trad 20m 1.5. Side Outcrop
Sunslab Unknown 50m 1.5. Side Outcrop
14 Ledge Of Sighs Direct Start Unknown 40m 1.1.2. East Side Cliffs
Catch Me Unknown 12m 1.1.3. West Side Boulders
* Grasping At Immortality Unknown 30m 1.4. Suicide Rock
Chalk And Cheese Unknown 10m 1.6. The Dark Side
15 Rsolution Sport 30m, 3 1.1.1. East Side Slab
Rampant Behaviour Unknown 35m 1.1.2. East Side Cliffs
Child Abuse Sport 22m, 3 1.5. Side Outcrop
Mincha Trad 10m 1.5. Side Outcrop
Patho Trad 23m 1.5. Side Outcrop
Slave To The Grind Unknown 7m 1.6. The Dark Side
16 Restitution Sport 35m, 5 1.1.1. East Side Slab
Remington Unknown 15m 1.1.2. East Side Cliffs
Jingle Bells Trad 18m 1.5. Side Outcrop
Persia 79 Sport 22m, 3 1.5. Side Outcrop
* Winterdreams Sport 22m, 3 1.5. Side Outcrop
Russian Roulette Unknown 7m 1.6. The Dark Side
The Moon Unknown 12m 1.6. The Dark Side
Wings Of Steel Unknown 11m 1.6. The Dark Side
17 Bolted Route Unknown 10m 1.1.3. West Side Boulders
Slow Down Unknown 8m 1.3. Suicide Boulders
Jim's Hangover Top rope 20m 1.5. Side Outcrop
* Rambunctious Unknown 22m 1.5. Side Outcrop
18 * Niemann Street Unknown 30m 1.4. Suicide Rock
Raw Hide Unknown 7m 1.6. The Dark Side
Skywalker Unknown 12m 1.6. The Dark Side
19 FB's Doing Bookwork Unknown 12m 1.2. Dead Sheep Gully
Rosie's big day out Sport 30m, 5 1.4. Suicide Rock
Do It In Deni Trad 15m 1.5. Side Outcrop
Realign The Tim Day Unknown 10m 1.6. The Dark Side
20 Recidivist Trad 30m 1.1.2. East Side Cliffs
A Suprising Time Out Sport 20m, 2 1.5. Side Outcrop
GST Trad 18m 1.5. Side Outcrop
Aces High Unknown 10m 1.6. The Dark Side
** Wicked Sensation Unknown 12m 1.6. The Dark Side
21 Pennies Deposit Unknown 10m 1.1.3. West Side Boulders
** Alms For The Beggarman Unknown 48m 1.4. Suicide Rock
** Crimping Unknown 30m 1.4. Suicide Rock
** Hoddle Street Unknown 48m 1.4. Suicide Rock
* Hoddle Street Left Hand Variant Unknown 48m 1.4. Suicide Rock
* Riding Through The Snow Trad 18m 1.5. Side Outcrop
22 ** Gun Control Unknown 50m 1.4. Suicide Rock
** Hoddle Street Right Hand Variant Unknown 48m 1.4. Suicide Rock
23 Irma Vep Sport 15m, 2 1.5. Side Outcrop
24 Savage Amusement Unknown 10m 1.5. Side Outcrop
27 ** Touch Me I'm Sick Unknown 45m 1.4. Suicide Rock